Mu9enx

shoot bruh, you go to ucsd? i might try to come down for sungod and meet up with kwlasian and the others! lol

Glyn M Ruck

Don't listen to them yeuchau . Your car in your signature is correct. Nose down - tail up - That is correct for proper handling & a CD of 0.27. Stops air from getting under the car and forming a pressure wedge which will make it float around at high speed. You must drop the front & rear by the same amount to keep the car's attitude correct. FrankW & splinter have their cars correct. 90% of the cars on this forum have their tails too low. Might look nice but crap for handling/road holding.

CoupeCrazy03

Bro let me know when your down so we can Jon and the others to setup a photoshoot on campus or something.

Wait what are you trying to say, dont drop it or drop it . . . im confused. Having the nose down and tail up is great for accelerating since it should level the car off at WOT. I do agree with FrankW having the perfect setup, his C32 obsession is one of my favorite C-class sedans on this forum to date

Glyn M Ruck

I'm saying don't drop the tail. If he want's to drop the nose further he can like splinter's car which is more of a track set up. The car must be nose down at all times even under acceleration. That way it's aerodynamically correct for both acceleration & handling. A lot of the spring kits that are not adjustable (apart from pads) that people fit on the forum drop the back too far. Some are almost nose up like a damn '65 Mustang POS.

CoupeCrazy03

Ah gotcha, I agree, I was just unclear on what you were trying to say.

Mu9enx

glyn,

like you said, most of the springs that work on our car usually drop the rear more, or at least look like it does. i think it's just because of the larger fender/corcle thingy that gives an optical illusion that some cars look higher up front. i mean, there has to be room for the fronts to move left and right, or else it would be rubbing the fender to hell. don't know if i made sense at all though haha

Glyn M Ruck

I understand Mu - and the fender liner in front also limits how far you can drop.

yeuchau

haven't get a chance to get any pics up yet, but my car is in the dealer now.

I don't know what's wrong with, maybe someone can tell me.

So, yesterday after I exit the highway, all the sudden my car loses all the power, pressing down the gas won't give me that constant acceleration sound, rather it gave me that continuous popping sound and the car wouldn't go anyway. The check engine light is also on.
So, I had to pull over the car and restart the car few times, and wait like 5 - 10 mines and still doing the same thing. and I waited another 20 minutes and start again, it started fine, so I hurry and drove home (I was like 30 miles away from home, luckily I got home without any problem). So, I took the car to dealer this morning, and car dives fine. No idea what is going on.
Anyone has anyidea of what that could be, note that this never happen before, and it happened after the audio shop install the Avic F700bt, which shouldn't have anything to do with it??

It sounds to me that, I might have to change the fuel pump, similar problem happen to my previous bimmer before, but the bimmer died, and I had to tow it to dealer to fix it. Which is certainly not the case here. Maybe it's a sign to tell me to change the fuel pump??

Any comments??

Glyn M Ruck

yeuchau - It can be a whole host of things, CPS, MAF, Fuel line pressure too low - pump or blocked filter, coil packs, wires etc.. It obviously settled down after you rebooted everything & I presume the engine temperature was normal? Before we all start guessing you need to pull codes from the car & let us know what it shows. The MAF is easy to check. Just unplug it & run on a default map. I think it went into limp mode. Buy or borrow an OBDII scanner. Autozone will read codes free.

Glyn M Ruck

See my edit

FrankW

won't accelerate and check engine light on sounds like the same problem I had TPS gone bad. Does it also gives you jerky gear shift? if so it may also be the TCU.

Glyn M Ruck

Frank - When your TPS failed - was the problem intermittent for a while. I'm trying to make sense of a friends BMW Z3. You can be running down the highway and everything seems fine until you try & accelerate and it does nothing - slight stutter but won't accelerate further. At other times it's fine. The damn vehicle is not OBDII compliant so we have a proprietary BMW scanner on the way. The dealer has no clue what's wrong & Norman refuses to take the car back to them.

FrankW

when my TPS failed, I could still pick up speed very very slowly probably 0-60 mph in a agonizing 20 seconds lol. The problem originally was intermittent and then it just won't go away.

Glyn M Ruck

Hmmm - I'm convinced this BM problem is TPS - problem is a new one runs at US$600 & has to come from Germany so I don't want to make a mistake.

yeuchau

what is TPS??
also, does the power comes and goes during that period of time say like 20seconds.
One more thing, it doesn't give me jerky gear shift, in fact, I don't think it's shifting, since the car was going so damn slow.
How much did it run you to fix that??

Thanks

FrankW

tps = throttle position sensor.

didn't cost me a thing. it was under extended warranty. only cost me a month without the car while they figure things out. tps and tcu happened at the same time for me.

if it's intermittent for your car you can try replacing the throttle pedal. There's a sensor on the pedal. parts is about $100 or so. give that a try first after you pulled the codes.

Glyn M Ruck

Get those codes & let's have a look

yeuchau

ok, so the dealer code me back and say it didn't read out anything, so they had no way to check the car.
They said they gonna drive my car for like 20-30 miles and see if they can reproduce that.

Glyn M Ruck

Something might just have triggered limp mode & a restart rebooted everything. Happened to me once 30,000 Km ago & never again - ECU brain fade! - Or as Mu says - "a brain fart"

yeuchau

it's just that this happen after I get the stereo installed, not sure if the shop did any wiring wrong

Glyn M Ruck

Yes - keep an eye on that and make sure they took power from the correct place provided by Benz.

yeuchau

ok, I got the car back.

Dealer said that there was a engine misfire, but they were not able to reproduce the problem, so no way for them to fix it.
They also clear the code and dorve my car for like 40+ miles without any problem.

Glyn M Ruck

Yeuchau - just drive it & watch it. Misfire codes most likely source are coilpacks, wires & plugs. If your fuel line pressure was down you would get a fuel trim code which you did not.

yeuchau

Thanks for the help Glyn

yeuchau

couple pics of my Pioneer Avic F700BT