C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Oh no, look what I found last night!

Old Jun 12, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #1  
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Oh no, look what I found last night!

So, last night when I got home from work I decided to change the oil on my 07. It had the factory fill and 5800 miles, so I thought it would be a good idea to get all the break-in metals out of there, and the oil looked pretty spent. Since it was the factory fill, I decided it would probably be better to drain the oil via the drain plug the first time to get rid of all the metals and contaminates at the bottom of the pan. So, I pulled the 2 under engine covers and was not happy at what I saw. There was fluid dripping off a couple of wire harnesses, and the transmission pan, bellhousing, and engine cover had a light coating of oil and dust. It appears the transmission is seeping oil around the pan gasket. Here are some pics:


Here you can see the discoloration on the transmission bellhousing.

Here you can see oil dripping off the wiring harness on the lower part of the pic.

Here is a pic of the front part of the transmission pan, and you can see the light seeping and oil and dirt coating on the pan.

And here you can see the oil coating the engine cover.

What color is the transmission fluid in this car? The oil appears to be amber colored like engine oil, but is clearly coming from the transmission.

I am going to schedule an appointment at the dealer to fix this. The point I wanted to make, is if you never pull the engine covers, and have a leak like mine, you'll NEVER know.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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I;m gonna remove the under cover tonight and check this. my w202 used to leak around that area all the time
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 03:17 PM
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Sorry to say i would not agree with anyone if they crack the seal on the drain plug to change the oil. The history of cars have show that over time the biggest reason for oil leaks in car have been caused by the drain plug in the oil pan. Thus if a Mercedes is serviced at the dealer they will never crack the drain plug for the life of ur car.
And i have first hand see the difference between topside drain and plug drain, using the topside drain u don't leave any oil in the car there is less then a table spoon of oil left in the car after using a topside (vacuum) to drain the oil of the car. So its not better to crack the drain plug. i would highly recommend anyone want to change there own oil get the topside drain, and use that to change the oil in you Mercedes, BMW, and Porsche.

I would agree to the fact that the topside drain will now work on honda or other domestic cars because the dipstick area is not set up properly to allow the the suction pip from a topside drain system to reach the bottom of the pan, where the Mercedes, BMW, Porsche are set up in a way that the dipstick reach the bottom of the pan. so using a topside drain can work efficiently.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 03:21 PM
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i think the oil leak happened prior to his oil change though....
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry Madan
Sorry to say i would not agree with anyone if they crack the seal on the drain plug to change the oil. The history of cars have show that over time the biggest reason for oil leaks in car have been caused by the drain plug in the oil pan. Thus if a Mercedes is serviced at the dealer they will never crack the drain plug for the life of ur car.
And i have first hand see the difference between topside drain and plug drain, using the topside drain u don't leave any oil in the car there is less then a table spoon of oil left in the car after using a topside (vacuum) to drain the oil of the car. So its not better to crack the drain plug. i would highly recommend anyone want to change there own oil get the topside drain, and use that to change the oil in you Mercedes, BMW, and Porsche.

I would agree to the fact that the topside drain will now work on honda or other domestic cars because the dipstick area is not set up properly to allow the the suction pip from a topside drain system to reach the bottom of the pan, where the Mercedes, BMW, Porsche are set up in a way that the dipstick reach the bottom of the pan. so using a topside drain can work efficiently.

Leaking at the drain plug is more a indication of reusing crush washers, and overtorquing the plug. Never had a problem with mine.

You can jack at an angle to get all the oil out.

E
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry Madan
Sorry to say i would not agree with anyone if they crack the seal on the drain plug to change the oil. The history of cars have show that over time the biggest reason for oil leaks in car have been caused by the drain plug in the oil pan. Thus if a Mercedes is serviced at the dealer they will never crack the drain plug for the life of ur car.
And i have first hand see the difference between topside drain and plug drain, using the topside drain u don't leave any oil in the car there is less then a table spoon of oil left in the car after using a topside (vacuum) to drain the oil of the car. So its not better to crack the drain plug. i would highly recommend anyone want to change there own oil get the topside drain, and use that to change the oil in you Mercedes, BMW, and Porsche.

I would agree to the fact that the topside drain will now work on honda or other domestic cars because the dipstick area is not set up properly to allow the the suction pip from a topside drain system to reach the bottom of the pan, where the Mercedes, BMW, Porsche are set up in a way that the dipstick reach the bottom of the pan. so using a topside drain can work efficiently.
Harry, the oil leak was noticed before I even cracked the drain plug, and is clearly coming from the transmission and not the engine. I am not going to drain the oil from the pan anymore and did replace the copper crush washer with a new OEM one, when replacing the drain plug.

Got an appointment at the dealer tomorrow to have them look at it.

Last edited by johnand; Jun 12, 2007 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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I took my car in to have my dealer look at the transmission on Wednesday, and they did their usual bang up job "fixing" it.

They cleaned the pan and area with fluid and sprayed tracing powder, and said to have the transmission inspected next visit.

So basically they did nothing to fix the problem and I had to drive a POS Chevy Malibu for 2 days while they did NOTHING
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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ooh yes. i get that "usual" treatment alot
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 09:28 AM
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you guys seem to have it really rough with the dealers from what i've been reading!

my local dealer has been awesome, knuckle joint was squeeking in the rear of my car a few weeks ago, went in, told them. they made me an apt. for the next day and lent me an 06 C350. although I wish they hadn't because it made me wish I spent the extra 30 grand and went with a brand new C350. lol

hope you get that cleared up though. its a wonder why they just didn't change the oil pan gasket. if mercedes is anything like other cars that should be a half hour job.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 02:25 PM
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Sounds like they're on top of it.
When you go back in a couple days, they should be able to see where the leak is coming from.
On mine, 2002 had an issue with the gasket on....well it was a round sensor of some sort that screwed in. Mine was leaking. Told the dealer, exactly where the leak was, they replaced not that gasket but parts of the front suspension that have oil in them. Go figger.
Eventually I also got that gasket replaced, by another dealer in Sac.
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Old Jun 15, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by johnand
They cleaned the pan and area with fluid and sprayed tracing powder, and said to have the transmission inspected next visit. So basically they did nothing to fix the problem and I had to drive a POS Chevy Malibu for 2 days while they did NOTHING
Did nothing? Cleaned and sprayed tracing powder (what's that? never heard of it) is at least a step forward. I have to be honest.....those pictures don't show a leak but more of a weep, and a slow one at that. Or maybe it was quick and then stopped. Slight discoloration but nothing more. I thought I was picky but you win on this one.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 01:27 AM
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better to take care of this thing (minor, major or cosmetic whatever it is) while the car is under warranty. It's like a symptom, it can be something, it can be nothing. Goodluck.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 02:20 AM
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There is no advantage to changing your oil early. As long as it is changed at 1 yr or 13,000 miles you will be fine. Mobil 1 0W-40 oil is used at the first fill because there is no "break-in" to be done. No metal particles are sheared off because the engine is planar honed so it it ready to run from first crank. There are no metals or contaminates on the bottom of the pan that are of any significance. Even though you replaced the Fischer & Plath copper seal on the drain plug, you run the risk of an oil leak unless you also changed the plug. The threads are a class A type designed to be tighter fit than the more common class B fit of most other fasteners. Get a Mity-Vac oil extractor and save yourself time and money. Now, how did you determine that the oil was "spent" from looking at it? If Blackstone Labs had done an analysis, you would have found that the oil was only "half spent."

I mean no criticism of you for a desire to "keep a tidy ship," but there is no technical reason to perform oil changes ahead of schedule. If you follow the factory schedule with the correct Mobil 1, fleece filter, and Top Tier premium gas, your engine will run a quarter million miles with virtually no wear.

The ultra violet tracing powder is a great tool. It will reveal the source of oil leaks, so you don't waste time resealing joints that are not leaking.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
Did nothing? Cleaned and sprayed tracing powder (what's that? never heard of it) is at least a step forward. I have to be honest.....those pictures don't show a leak but more of a weep, and a slow one at that. Or maybe it was quick and then stopped. Slight discoloration but nothing more. I thought I was picky but you win on this one.
I don't think I am being picky at all. I just bought a $35K car, and expect it to be leak free for at least a couple of years. Yes, it is a weep, but with how much I drive the car if I don't get it taken care of quickly, I will find I am out of the warranty period.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Moviela
There is no advantage to changing your oil early. As long as it is changed at 1 yr or 13,000 miles you will be fine. Mobil 1 0W-40 oil is used at the first fill because there is no "break-in" to be done. No metal particles are sheared off because the engine is planar honed so it it ready to run from first crank. There are no metals or contaminates on the bottom of the pan that are of any significance. Even though you replaced the Fischer & Plath copper seal on the drain plug, you run the risk of an oil leak unless you also changed the plug. The threads are a class A type designed to be tighter fit than the more common class B fit of most other fasteners. Get a Mity-Vac oil extractor and save yourself time and money. Now, how did you determine that the oil was "spent" from looking at it? If Blackstone Labs had done an analysis, you would have found that the oil was only "half spent."

I mean no criticism of you for a desire to "keep a tidy ship," but there is no technical reason to perform oil changes ahead of schedule. If you follow the factory schedule with the correct Mobil 1, fleece filter, and Top Tier premium gas, your engine will run a quarter million miles with virtually no wear.

The ultra violet tracing powder is a great tool. It will reveal the source of oil leaks, so you don't waste time resealing joints that are not leaking.
I actually agree with you and appreciate reading your posts on maintenance. I am on the **** side that is why I changed it, but I bet you are right, and it wasn't quite needed yet. Guess, I kinda wanted a reason to work on the car But, I did grab a sample of the oil before I drained it all. I will be doing oil analysis on the car for a little bit to find MY optimum change interval. I suspect it will be less than the MB 13K recommended interval. I run E85 in the car regularly, and that is known to use up the additive package in oils quicker.

As far as the tracing powder, that is new to me. Guess I have been away from that trade for too long. (I was a automotive mechanic about 12 years ago.) It is pretty evident to me though, that it is seeping around the pan. It just makes me nervous as, gaskets rarely fail that quick, and is more likely another problem (Like a pan, or worse yet, transmission case not quite flat.)

I will update this thread when I take it in again to have it checked.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 09:53 AM
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Did MB fix it?
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by splinter
Did MB fix it?
Actually, after they cleaned it up and put the dusting powder on it, I have yet to see a trace of oil. So, they may have spilled some during assembly, or it did seep a bit at first and sealed itself up.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by johnand
I don't think I am being picky at all. I just bought a $35K car, and expect it to be leak free for at least a couple of years. Yes, it is a weep, but with how much I drive the car if I don't get it taken care of quickly, I will find I am out of the warranty period.
No offense but 35K isn't much at all for cars these days. Hondas, Toyota, domestic by the time you load em' they're all over 30K.

Also price doesn't always dictate to quality and lack of repairs or issues. Take a look at most exotics.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by johnand
Actually, after they cleaned it up and put the dusting powder on it, I have yet to see a trace of oil. So, they may have spilled some during assembly, or it did seep a bit at first and sealed itself up.
this si what was i thinking when i read your first post. right after i did an oil change i saw drip spots on my garage floor, wiped it off and see if it occured again, happened for the next two days but were just drips, kept doing the same thing and it finally went away. in your case, where the car is still under warranty, i will keep an eye on it then bring it back to the dealer it it shows any sign of happening again.

goodluck
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by slowrey
No offense but 35K isn't much at all for cars these days. Hondas, Toyota, domestic by the time you load em' they're all over 30K.

Also price doesn't always dictate to quality and lack of repairs or issues. Take a look at most exotics.
His car is a 2007 and look at when the original post was....i'm not sure what date he purchased the car on, but when this leak happened or if it was or wasn't a leak, it shouldn't have had that discoloration, etc, he had had the car probably 8 months or less.....no matter how expensive or inexpensive your car is, it shouldn't have this type of problem that soon, unless you do something to the car......not everyone may be as rich as you if $35k isn't a lot of money.....I agree with the second half of your statement about quality though.....

my .02
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by slowrey
No offense but 35K isn't much at all for cars these days. Hondas, Toyota, domestic by the time you load em' they're all over 30K.

Also price doesn't always dictate to quality and lack of repairs or issues. Take a look at most exotics.
What in the world are you saying?

E
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by emrliquidlife
What in the world are you saying?

E
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by LuxuryC240
His car is a 2007 and look at when the original post was....i'm not sure what date he purchased the car on, but when this leak happened or if it was or wasn't a leak, it shouldn't have had that discoloration, etc, he had had the car probably 8 months or less.....no matter how expensive or inexpensive your car is, it shouldn't have this type of problem that soon, unless you do something to the car......not everyone may be as rich as you if $35k isn't a lot of money.....I agree with the second half of your statement about quality though.....

my .02
I had the car less then 3 months when this happened and just at about 5K miles. That was my gripe, that I was surprised to have a leaky transmission so soon. Guess I was expecting more from a MB, but quickly learned that just because it is a MB, doesn't necessarily mean it is reliable.
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