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2015 e400 w212 4matic sedan. Staggered tires. My old rear tires had really bad uneven wear on the inside edge. A brand new tire was destroyed in 5k miles. I had it aligned and put new expensive continentals on it.
These are the results from my alignment. The rear toe is barely changed and the wheels are still noticeably at an angle. Should I have the shop correct this alignment or is it good the way it is?
I paid $1200 for these tires I dont want them to be destroyed in 5k miles.
I have yet to have my W204 aligned. The tires had just been replaced when I bought it. 5yrs later the tires started cracking all over so had 4 new tires installed. I inspected the tread and still had some life left, no signs of abnormal wear which was surprising. So thats why I did not have an alignment done, figured no need to. I even have some bushings back there that look totally worn that I will try replacing this summer.
My view on having an alignment done is I would only have the MB dealer do it. From reading thru the manual it looks like they are supposed to check the level of the car first, if out of tolerance then inspect/replace springs, bushings or whatever the issue is. Then they can measure the alignment of the wheels.
Appears on the rear only the toe is adjustable by turning the cam bolt. Does a local wheel shop do this? Tire shop down the street from me cant even torque wheel bolts properly.
I looked thru the alignment specs for 2015 W212. I didnt see a 4matic 485 with front/rear steel spring, found a 4matic 485 front steel and rear air spec. I dont really understand the what the numbers mean though.
2015 e400 w212 4matic sedan. Staggered tires. My old rear tires had really bad uneven wear on the inside edge. A brand new tire was destroyed in 5k miles. I had it aligned and put new expensive continentals on it.
These are the results from my alignment. The rear toe is barely changed and the wheels are still noticeably at an angle. Should I have the shop correct this alignment or is it good the way it is?
I paid $1200 for these tires I dont want them to be destroyed in 5k miles.
The long story short is what you need now is SUSPENSION maintenance, not an alignement.
We are all in that same boat with this setup.
> FRONT END :
The rubbers bushings are now too soft
The SB links make the chassis bouncy
The ball joints are loose
The dry strut bearings are no longer centering
The front wheels bearings are loose
The tie rods: not too bad!!
> REAR END:
The rear multi link setup has 5x arms to replace
> SHORTCUT :
FCP Euro sells suspension parts KITS for this purpose.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Yesterday at 03:16 PM.
I think I'm going to bring the car back to the shop and ask them to set both rear wheels to 0.10° toe in, bringing the total toe to 0.20°. Assuming its possible.
The front got new control arms and tie rods. I didnt do any work on the rear.
I think I'm going to bring the car back to the shop and ask them to set both rear wheels to 0.10° toe in, bringing the total toe to 0.20°. Assuming its possible.
The front got new control arms and tie rods. I didnt do any work on the rear.
Alignment specialist will let you know the REAR TOE is not adjustable unless you use special adjustable arms or a set of cheaper offset-bolts with limited results.
The rear toe is set by a combination of links... not as simple as front end tie-rods.
When rear springs sag all angles go out of range.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Yesterday at 03:22 PM.
Alignment specialist will let you know the REAR TOE is not adjustable unless you use special adjustable arms or a set of cheaper offset-bolts with limited results.
The rear toe is set by a combination of links... not as simple as front end tie-rods.
When rear springs sag all angles go out of range.
I thought camber was fixed but tow was adjustable? Everyone I've asked is saying my rear toe is bad and I need to have them fix it.
Rear- only toe is adjustable, to an extent. It uses an eccentric bolt and disc at the inside mounting point. When replacing the rear tie rod it is important to mark its position and install the new one the same way.
Front- toe, camber and caster are adjustable. I believe special bolts are needed to make adjustments.
I would inspect the entire suspension for anything worn, loose or cracked bushings. My tie rods look pretty bad so I have replacements i just need the time to install everything. It involves lowering the front of the rear subframe to remove the bolts.
Given the alignment data, I think my right rear is sagging. It could be what's causing the camber to be so out of spec. I need to jack it up and check the springs. Is there anything else that could cause it to sag like that?
Given the alignment data, I think my right rear is sagging. It could be what's causing the camber to be so out of spec. I need to jack it up and check the springs. Is there anything else that could cause it to sag like that?
You got it: these rear springs grow shorter.
There not super expensive to buy.
If the rear springs are not broken, you may get away with adjustable camber arms, to correct the negative camber that was caused by slight spring compression
Then do a toe-in realignment
I would try that approach first
See my post at: W212 front and rear camber fixed
with valuable comments added by expert Mr Prihadi
I had to use adjustable rear camber arms, right side only to get back to proper spec https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-out-spec.html
But do remember, my camber is not crazy out of whack, but is not within SUPERB spec.
I have no issue of rear tire weird wear.... I won't allow such thing to happen.
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