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C350 DIY Oil Change Pictures
02-22-2009, 06:37 PM
#51
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a quarter mile at a time
so i changed the oil on 2 both of my 320's....
purchased the extractor on amazon... and the filter tool cap from autozone
for my C.... the h-n-r filter cost me like 18 bucks on ebay. i put 10w30 high mileage mobile-1 and it cost me approx $50 bucks with tax ($25/5 quart)
the c used about 1.5 bottles..... so all in all for just the oil and filter..
$23 (1 bottle)
$12.5 (1/2 bottle)
$18 (filter)
------------
$53.5
occasionally i get my oil changed at one of the local dealers for 19 bucks ( regularly 59.99). I also just received a coupon from another local dealer for 39. bucks (regularly 89.99).
so in reality im only saving approx 7-8 bucks if i take it to the first dealer and paying full price (assuming that the SA doesnt talk me into fixing something that may not need fixing.)
this may sound awful..... but my time is worth more than saving the 7-8 bucks. it was nice to actually do it myself but the hassle of purchasing the oil, pouring the old oil back in the bottle, taking the old oil back to auto shop for recycling, ordering the filter, then cleaning up after making a mess isnt really worth the 7-8 bucks.
The tIme i spent doing it myself... including going to the store twice.... and actually changing the oil took me approx 1 hour. At the dealer the oil change takes about 1/2 an hour. And during this time i can read something or catch up on some much needed ZZZ's in the nice waiting area.
Regardless of what i typed above.... i will probably change my own oil in between scheduled visits, 5000 miles without changing the filter....
This DIY is great.... and it would be really worth it for you MB owners that have dealers that charge an arm and a leg to change your oil. It is very easy to do. Im moving to the detroit area in june and i hope to find a dealer up there that charges 59 bucks or so...... if not ill most likely be doing the oil changes myself... an hour of my time is definately worth saving 30-40 bucks vs 7-8..
-carino
purchased the extractor on amazon... and the filter tool cap from autozone
for my C.... the h-n-r filter cost me like 18 bucks on ebay. i put 10w30 high mileage mobile-1 and it cost me approx $50 bucks with tax ($25/5 quart)
the c used about 1.5 bottles..... so all in all for just the oil and filter..
$23 (1 bottle)
$12.5 (1/2 bottle)
$18 (filter)
------------
$53.5
occasionally i get my oil changed at one of the local dealers for 19 bucks ( regularly 59.99). I also just received a coupon from another local dealer for 39. bucks (regularly 89.99).
so in reality im only saving approx 7-8 bucks if i take it to the first dealer and paying full price (assuming that the SA doesnt talk me into fixing something that may not need fixing.)
this may sound awful..... but my time is worth more than saving the 7-8 bucks. it was nice to actually do it myself but the hassle of purchasing the oil, pouring the old oil back in the bottle, taking the old oil back to auto shop for recycling, ordering the filter, then cleaning up after making a mess isnt really worth the 7-8 bucks.
The tIme i spent doing it myself... including going to the store twice.... and actually changing the oil took me approx 1 hour. At the dealer the oil change takes about 1/2 an hour. And during this time i can read something or catch up on some much needed ZZZ's in the nice waiting area.
Regardless of what i typed above.... i will probably change my own oil in between scheduled visits, 5000 miles without changing the filter....
This DIY is great.... and it would be really worth it for you MB owners that have dealers that charge an arm and a leg to change your oil. It is very easy to do. Im moving to the detroit area in june and i hope to find a dealer up there that charges 59 bucks or so...... if not ill most likely be doing the oil changes myself... an hour of my time is definately worth saving 30-40 bucks vs 7-8..
-carino
BTW, I don't think Mobil1 10w-30 is a MB 229.3 approved oil either.
Last edited by e1000; 02-22-2009 at 06:40 PM.
04-29-2009, 06:14 PM
#54
MBWorld Fanatic!
Autozone, Pepboys as for the oli filter you can get OEM from benz dealer or you can get K&N MANN filter. Make sure it says MANN and it's made in germany. Fram and other ones have them but they are paper. There are incidents where the paper deteriorates and brakes apart.
06-16-2009, 08:14 PM
#57
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just changed my oil and was it easy and hard at the same time.
The procedure was very easy but the oil cap wrench was the hardest part. I got it from a local auto store and it was wrong (too big). Then I got the correct size but I got 74mm 15 which means 74mm and 15 fins but mine has 14 fins. Then I got the 74mm 14 fins and it was plastic crap and it kept slipping. Then I called my dad over who is by the way twice my size (I am 130 - 5-8) and he used a regular wrench and took off the cap. I couldnt take it off with regular wrench no room to give force.
The cap is sooo stupid. It has an arrow pointing left which I thought you untwist it clockwise (almost everything is counter clockwise). Then I figures out it is counterclockwise and the arrow didnt mean anything. Why would they put and arrow I mean everyone knows which way to twist to get the cap off and the only time there should be an arrow is when it is opposite direction. Anyway job done. Now I need to get air filters and replace those.
Authentic Mercedes Oil filter (getmercedesparts.com) shipping and tax rounded up to 24.00
Oil extractor 10 Q - 80.00 (ebay)
Oil Mobile 1 0-40 Full Senthetic 7 bucks a quart. I got 9 close to 70.00 (rounded)
I was able to get out almost 8.0 Q.
Was pumping for 2 hours loool
Then I resetted the service interval. Go to Serve section (Service A or Service B)
Hold the reset button, you will get prompt that if you want to reset the interval press and hold reset for 3 seconds.
Then you will get fresh 13,000 miles.
Thank you to OP for the info and our members.
Hopefully you guys will learn from my mistake.
Also dont pump the Oil when its too hot. You are building suction in the barrel and when it hot it bends in. Thats what happened to me. Then you have to wait a while for it to pop back so you can get correct measurments.
Good Luck.
Air filter you are up next.
The procedure was very easy but the oil cap wrench was the hardest part. I got it from a local auto store and it was wrong (too big). Then I got the correct size but I got 74mm 15 which means 74mm and 15 fins but mine has 14 fins. Then I got the 74mm 14 fins and it was plastic crap and it kept slipping. Then I called my dad over who is by the way twice my size (I am 130 - 5-8) and he used a regular wrench and took off the cap. I couldnt take it off with regular wrench no room to give force.
The cap is sooo stupid. It has an arrow pointing left which I thought you untwist it clockwise (almost everything is counter clockwise). Then I figures out it is counterclockwise and the arrow didnt mean anything. Why would they put and arrow I mean everyone knows which way to twist to get the cap off and the only time there should be an arrow is when it is opposite direction. Anyway job done. Now I need to get air filters and replace those.
Authentic Mercedes Oil filter (getmercedesparts.com) shipping and tax rounded up to 24.00
Oil extractor 10 Q - 80.00 (ebay)
Oil Mobile 1 0-40 Full Senthetic 7 bucks a quart. I got 9 close to 70.00 (rounded)
I was able to get out almost 8.0 Q.
Was pumping for 2 hours loool
Then I resetted the service interval. Go to Serve section (Service A or Service B)
Hold the reset button, you will get prompt that if you want to reset the interval press and hold reset for 3 seconds.
Then you will get fresh 13,000 miles.
Thank you to OP for the info and our members.
Hopefully you guys will learn from my mistake.
Also dont pump the Oil when its too hot. You are building suction in the barrel and when it hot it bends in. Thats what happened to me. Then you have to wait a while for it to pop back so you can get correct measurments.
Good Luck.
Air filter you are up next.
07-12-2009, 03:50 PM
#58
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2008 C300
Ok, I'm 64 and am still crawling under my 56 Nomad to change my oil. I also still run 5 miles a day and hit the gym a few tiems a week just like Ive done sine my high school daze.
Now let me get to the issue of an oil change, or to be more specific, how the h_ _ _ to find the oil drain plug on a 2009 MB C300.
My daughter, unlike me, prefers foreign, specifically a 2009 MB C300.
When I proceeded to change her oil this morning, after noticing I had to remove several plastic cover from under her vehicle, then accomplishing that task, I could not find the darn (other words were used) OIL DRAIN PLUG.
Anyone know where it is? Did the Krauts change what it looks like?
Being a Polack, I've heard I may not be as sharp as one of those Ginzu steak knifes that used to be advertised on TV many moons ago, but come on, where did MB hide the drain plug?
Now let me get to the issue of an oil change, or to be more specific, how the h_ _ _ to find the oil drain plug on a 2009 MB C300.
My daughter, unlike me, prefers foreign, specifically a 2009 MB C300.
When I proceeded to change her oil this morning, after noticing I had to remove several plastic cover from under her vehicle, then accomplishing that task, I could not find the darn (other words were used) OIL DRAIN PLUG.
Anyone know where it is? Did the Krauts change what it looks like?
Being a Polack, I've heard I may not be as sharp as one of those Ginzu steak knifes that used to be advertised on TV many moons ago, but come on, where did MB hide the drain plug?
01-01-2010, 04:57 AM
#59
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Calif.
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2008 c350
Filter 2008 c350
I recently changed the oil on my wife''s car. After doing some research I selected a purepower permanent oil filter. By permanent I mean that like a K & N air filter it is designed to be cleaned and re-used. Its about $ 200. but worth it. This filter actually filters the oil. As many of you know oil just drips down the sides of the oil filter medium but does not go through it. Thats why oil filters operate in By-pass mode because the oil has nowhere to go except around the filter medium. This filter also has magnets that trap metal particles and because it actually filters the oil you can extend oil drain intervals. I also switched to Chevron Delo 400 LE 10-30 instead of Mobil 1.
the Delo 400 has very good anti wear and acid handling capabilities. Not having an oil extractor was a pain as I had to do it the old school way under the car.
the Delo 400 has very good anti wear and acid handling capabilities. Not having an oil extractor was a pain as I had to do it the old school way under the car.
01-01-2010, 05:04 AM
#60
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Location: Southern Calif.
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2008 c350
Ok, I'm 64 and am still crawling under my 56 Nomad to change my oil. I also still run 5 miles a day and hit the gym a few tiems a week just like Ive done sine my high school daze.
Now let me get to the issue of an oil change, or to be more specific, how the h_ _ _ to find the oil drain plug on a 2009 MB C300.
My daughter, unlike me, prefers foreign, specifically a 2009 MB C300.
When I proceeded to change her oil this morning, after noticing I had to remove several plastic cover from under her vehicle, then accomplishing that task, I could not find the darn (other words were used) OIL DRAIN PLUG.
Anyone know where it is? Did the Krauts change what it looks like?
Being a Polack, I've heard I may not be as sharp as one of those Ginzu steak knifes that used to be advertised on TV many moons ago, but come on, where did MB hide the drain plug?
Now let me get to the issue of an oil change, or to be more specific, how the h_ _ _ to find the oil drain plug on a 2009 MB C300.
My daughter, unlike me, prefers foreign, specifically a 2009 MB C300.
When I proceeded to change her oil this morning, after noticing I had to remove several plastic cover from under her vehicle, then accomplishing that task, I could not find the darn (other words were used) OIL DRAIN PLUG.
Anyone know where it is? Did the Krauts change what it looks like?
Being a Polack, I've heard I may not be as sharp as one of those Ginzu steak knifes that used to be advertised on TV many moons ago, but come on, where did MB hide the drain plug?
01-01-2010, 05:13 AM
#61
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2008 c350
DIY
[quote=e1000;3368672]Are those prices for MB approved oil??
BTW, I don't think Mobil1 10w-30 is a MB 229.3 approved oil either.[/q
Doing the oil change myself assures me that the oil drain plug will not be cross threaded, or over/under tightened and I know there will not be any leaks.
BTW, I don't think Mobil1 10w-30 is a MB 229.3 approved oil either.[/q
Doing the oil change myself assures me that the oil drain plug will not be cross threaded, or over/under tightened and I know there will not be any leaks.
01-19-2010, 10:04 PM
#63
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2008 c350
Oil Filter Cap size
I do not know the size of the oil filter cap but you can use an adjustable type and it would be on the small end of the range. To avoid scratching the cap place a small cloth on the cap before putting the adjustable wrench on it.
01-20-2010, 01:12 AM
#64
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2003 C320 Sport Sedan
Don't ever buy a Fram filter for anything. I changed the oil in my wife's mini van a couple of years ago then went into town to get something. On the way back the valves started tapping, it was getting worse as I made my way back.
I get home and started checking everything out. There was oil in the sump and I didn't see any leaks anywhere. Eventually I made my way to the filter to take a look inside. There was a giant ball of paper in the middle with some of it sticking out.
I changed the filter and started the van (after replacing the oil again). The tapping was still there. The paper was sucked up into the engine and was all over the place. I took off one of the valve covers and little pieces of paper were all over the place!
I called Fram and they asked me to send them the filter so they could see what the problem was. They also stated that if it was a defective filter then they would pay for the repair. Two weeks later we recieved a letter in the mail stating that the engine must have been producing too much pressure and that it was not the filters or Frams fault.
I eventually got around to rebuilding the engine to get out all of the paper, it was everywhere. The oil pump was fine and was making the right amount of pressure once all of the paper was out. It has been running fine ever since with the original parts.
I usually only use Purolator Pure One filters now in it. Hopefully they make one for my C320.
I get home and started checking everything out. There was oil in the sump and I didn't see any leaks anywhere. Eventually I made my way to the filter to take a look inside. There was a giant ball of paper in the middle with some of it sticking out.
I changed the filter and started the van (after replacing the oil again). The tapping was still there. The paper was sucked up into the engine and was all over the place. I took off one of the valve covers and little pieces of paper were all over the place!
I called Fram and they asked me to send them the filter so they could see what the problem was. They also stated that if it was a defective filter then they would pay for the repair. Two weeks later we recieved a letter in the mail stating that the engine must have been producing too much pressure and that it was not the filters or Frams fault.
I eventually got around to rebuilding the engine to get out all of the paper, it was everywhere. The oil pump was fine and was making the right amount of pressure once all of the paper was out. It has been running fine ever since with the original parts.
I usually only use Purolator Pure One filters now in it. Hopefully they make one for my C320.
01-20-2010, 03:33 AM
#65
Super Moderator
Don't ever buy a Fram filter for anything. I changed the oil in my wife's mini van a couple of years ago then went into town to get something. On the way back the valves started tapping, it was getting worse as I made my way back.
I get home and started checking everything out. There was oil in the sump and I didn't see any leaks anywhere. Eventually I made my way to the filter to take a look inside. There was a giant ball of paper in the middle with some of it sticking out.
I changed the filter and started the van (after replacing the oil again). The tapping was still there. The paper was sucked up into the engine and was all over the place. I took off one of the valve covers and little pieces of paper were all over the place!
I called Fram and they asked me to send them the filter so they could see what the problem was. They also stated that if it was a defective filter then they would pay for the repair. Two weeks later we recieved a letter in the mail stating that the engine must have been producing too much pressure and that it was not the filters or Frams fault.
I eventually got around to rebuilding the engine to get out all of the paper, it was everywhere. The oil pump was fine and was making the right amount of pressure once all of the paper was out. It has been running fine ever since with the original parts.
I usually only use Purolator Pure One filters now in it. Hopefully they make one for my C320.
I get home and started checking everything out. There was oil in the sump and I didn't see any leaks anywhere. Eventually I made my way to the filter to take a look inside. There was a giant ball of paper in the middle with some of it sticking out.
I changed the filter and started the van (after replacing the oil again). The tapping was still there. The paper was sucked up into the engine and was all over the place. I took off one of the valve covers and little pieces of paper were all over the place!
I called Fram and they asked me to send them the filter so they could see what the problem was. They also stated that if it was a defective filter then they would pay for the repair. Two weeks later we recieved a letter in the mail stating that the engine must have been producing too much pressure and that it was not the filters or Frams fault.
I eventually got around to rebuilding the engine to get out all of the paper, it was everywhere. The oil pump was fine and was making the right amount of pressure once all of the paper was out. It has been running fine ever since with the original parts.
I usually only use Purolator Pure One filters now in it. Hopefully they make one for my C320.
01-20-2010, 04:20 PM
#66
MBWorld Fanatic!
You know how many times I went back a forth to get a wrench. I got the plastic one then the metal one. The fit is great but when you apply pressure the wrench comes off. Finally I got fed up and used a regular wrench.
01-20-2010, 05:06 PM
#67
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2008 c350
To insure my oil is actually filtered I installed a PurePower Oil Filter. It is designed to be cleaned and re-installed like a K & N air type filter. Its expensive but I will never have to by another Oil filter. There is one person, from Down Under, that is on this forum and he is very knowledgeable about Lubrication although we have some different views. He is well worth referring to.
01-27-2010, 03:53 PM
#68
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2003 C320 Sport Sedan
Drain Plug Crush Washer Size?
Changed oil, but didn't replace original crush washer. Car is leaking oil. What size copper crush washer do I need for 03 C320?
Thanks
Thanks
01-27-2010, 04:43 PM
#69
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
I and others have found that once you remove the drain plug, just changing the washer is not enough to keep it from leaking. You have to change the drain plug AND washer AND torque to spec with torque wrench to get it leak free. That is why you should extract from top and not the traditional dropping of the drain plug to drain.
01-27-2010, 05:15 PM
#70
Super Moderator
01-28-2010, 11:29 PM
#71
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a quarter mile at a time
I share your pain. As it is, if you do not have the special oil extractor you have to go under the car, like I did, and remove 2 underside plastic pans just to get to the drain plug. This is just my opinion but the Mobil 1 oil recommendation is not because Mobil 1 is so great but that Mobil supplies MB with it for FREE. Unless you are in extreme cold a good 10-30 is fine.
To insure my oil is actually filtered I installed a PurePower Oil Filter. It is designed to be cleaned and re-installed like a K & N air type filter. Its expensive but I will never have to by another Oil filter. There is one person, from Down Under, that is on this forum and he is very knowledgeable about Lubrication although we have some different views. He is well worth referring to.
To insure my oil is actually filtered I installed a PurePower Oil Filter. It is designed to be cleaned and re-installed like a K & N air type filter. Its expensive but I will never have to by another Oil filter. There is one person, from Down Under, that is on this forum and he is very knowledgeable about Lubrication although we have some different views. He is well worth referring to.
04-22-2010, 02:00 PM
#72
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2003 C320 Sport Sedan
I and others have found that once you remove the drain plug, just changing the washer is not enough to keep it from leaking. You have to change the drain plug AND washer AND torque to spec with torque wrench to get it leak free. That is why you should extract from top and not the traditional dropping of the drain plug to drain.
Yea, called dealer and got no answer on size, just that they had in stock. Dealer is too far away for a washer, just needed size to pick up at corner parts store.
Oh well, I just tightened the drain bolt some more and leak is gone. I'll extract via pump from now on.
