Akebono Brake Pad Install/Review (+Bed-In & Afterthoughts)
11-22-2009, 02:58 PM
#77
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2005 C230 Sport Seden
After doing some more research, it's possible my rotors were not warped, but had uneven friction material on the rotors, which can be removed with garnet paper. I wish I would of read the following article before switching out my old rotors and pads. I'll never know if they were really warped or not.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Quoted from the article:
"In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures."
"The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason."
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Quoted from the article:
"In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures."
"The obvious question now is "is there a "cure" for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes. If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point where cementite begins to form. In this case, simply fitting a set of good "semi-metallic" pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation but with upgraded pads. If only a small amount of material has been transferred i.e. if the vibration is just starting, vigorous scrubbing with garnet paper may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surfaces thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason."
01-23-2010, 06:55 PM
#78
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: SD, CA
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2006 c203 sport
I was looking for a front brake job for C230 with AMG brakes and didnt find one ( i guess i was the only one that has them 
)
Well i did mine and here's what i figured.
I turned my wheels before i use the jack (didn't have stands
) cause if you turn wheels as one side is jacked up already, you risk loosing stability on the jack. As i worked on left side i turned wheels to the right (starting the car makes it very easy =P)
I found it easier not to touch any of the bolts but only to remove the pins/steel rods (on pics i only pointed to top rod but both needs to be taken out) that hold pad in place. Simple and easy.
Here are some pics --->
)Well i did mine and here's what i figured.
I turned my wheels before i use the jack (didn't have stands
) cause if you turn wheels as one side is jacked up already, you risk loosing stability on the jack. As i worked on left side i turned wheels to the right (starting the car makes it very easy =P) I found it easier not to touch any of the bolts but only to remove the pins/steel rods (on pics i only pointed to top rod but both needs to be taken out) that hold pad in place. Simple and easy.
Here are some pics --->
04-08-2010, 10:02 AM
#79
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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C230 Sport
does anyone know the torque specs for doing a complete brake job (rotors, pads, sensors)? i know the torque needed for the wheels is around 85 ft/lbs but what about the retaining bolt for the rotors and also for the caliper? is everyone just going off "hand tight"? i read through a couple DIY brake jobs and couldnt find any torque specs, any help would be greatly appreciated!!
