Akebono Brake Pad Install/Review (+Bed-In & Afterthoughts)
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
OK, we're not talking the ones on the front...don't undo those.
We're talking the back of the caliper, where they bolt to the car.
Is it still Torx? No matter, you need the whole set anyway,
torx and inverted if you plan to work on your car at all.
Bought Akebono's from Tire Rack.
We're talking the back of the caliper, where they bolt to the car.
Is it still Torx? No matter, you need the whole set anyway,
torx and inverted if you plan to work on your car at all.
Bought Akebono's from Tire Rack.
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From: ST. Louis, MO
'16 SL550, '18 Porsche Macan GTS
You will not need a Torx socket to do pads or rotors and you NEVER want to remove any of the four Torx head bolts on the face or back of the caliper. Those keep the caliper sealed and if removed, you will need to have the caliper rebuilt!
To remove the caliper for rotor replacement, there are two 18mm hex head bolts holding the caliper to the bracket. Only remove those bolts! They will be a b!tch to get off as they were installed with blue lock tight at the factory. If you have access to an impact gun that will fit in the wheel well, use it to remove the bolts but not to put them back on. An impact gun will apply way more torque than you need to install. I don't know what the MBZ specs are, but BMW says to use 25 foot pounds. I did mine hand tight with a fairly long 3/8" ratchet.
You will need a T30 Torx head bit to remove the retaining screw on the front of the rotor. The ones on mine were too tight to remove with a screw driver type torx bit without stripping them, so I bought a 3/8" socket T30 bit for about $6.
I used Morse ceramic pads and they should be available from Auto Value, Advance or Auto Zone by now.
To remove the caliper for rotor replacement, there are two 18mm hex head bolts holding the caliper to the bracket. Only remove those bolts! They will be a b!tch to get off as they were installed with blue lock tight at the factory. If you have access to an impact gun that will fit in the wheel well, use it to remove the bolts but not to put them back on. An impact gun will apply way more torque than you need to install. I don't know what the MBZ specs are, but BMW says to use 25 foot pounds. I did mine hand tight with a fairly long 3/8" ratchet.
You will need a T30 Torx head bit to remove the retaining screw on the front of the rotor. The ones on mine were too tight to remove with a screw driver type torx bit without stripping them, so I bought a 3/8" socket T30 bit for about $6.
I used Morse ceramic pads and they should be available from Auto Value, Advance or Auto Zone by now.
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Your new pads don't squeel because you broke them in properly.... not because of who manufacters them or what material they are made of. Everyone should read the Stop Tech explanation of the importance of proper pad bed in. Also, the incorrectly tagged "warped rotor" symptom is a product of improper bedding in of pads.
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From: Fresno, CA
'09 A4 S Line
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stopping power is great, dust i don't know yet because my wheels are really dirty, i haven't cleaned them since the install. i did the break in and they still squeak! i'm taking it back to the shop tomorrow to see if they put grease on it.
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'09 A4 S Line
I think you can get the "anti-squeal paste" from your local dealer super cheap...maybe free if you have a good relationship with your SA.
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Thread Starter
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EVE
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From: NPR florida
C230k coupe 500sec convertible
just put my akebono's on with a fresh set of rotors --will post a couple pictures and post thoughts after a week or two of driving---tire reack even sent me some anti squeal paste with the pads, however i always use the blue spray on suff on the back of them----I'm sure that I will agree with most of the already posted reviews
Last edited by HeirKranz; Mar 11, 2008 at 07:44 PM.
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Had my front tires balanced recently, checked the pads while the wheels were off.
Still look new, and getting close to 40K miles, and stop on a dime.
And much much cleaner.
Stock pads are such a waste of money.
Looks like I'll get at least 70K miles on a set.
The anti squeal paste isn't supposed to come in contact with the caliper.
On the C32 pads, there's a shim with paste between it and the caliper.
I reused that.
Still look new, and getting close to 40K miles, and stop on a dime.
And much much cleaner.
Stock pads are such a waste of money.
Looks like I'll get at least 70K miles on a set.
The anti squeal paste isn't supposed to come in contact with the caliper.
On the C32 pads, there's a shim with paste between it and the caliper.
I reused that.
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From: Irvine
04 CL55, 05 E500S4, 15 BMW i3 REx
Hey guys, just to clarify:
When I removed my CLK550 pads from the calipers, they had a metal backing plate, but no "shim" between the backing plate and the piston. Is there supposed to be? You can see the marks on the backing plate where the ring of the caliper was forced up against it. Is this correct?
Piston | Backing Plate | Anti-Squeal Paste | Pad
My Akebono pads came with "shims" but these are I believe to be placed on the back of the pad as they came that way from the box. Is this correct, or do these "shims" get moved between the piston and the metal backing plate?
Thanks.
When I removed my CLK550 pads from the calipers, they had a metal backing plate, but no "shim" between the backing plate and the piston. Is there supposed to be? You can see the marks on the backing plate where the ring of the caliper was forced up against it. Is this correct?
Piston | Backing Plate | Anti-Squeal Paste | Pad
My Akebono pads came with "shims" but these are I believe to be placed on the back of the pad as they came that way from the box. Is this correct, or do these "shims" get moved between the piston and the metal backing plate?
Thanks.
MBworld Guru
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Posts: 2,345
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From: Irvine
04 CL55, 05 E500S4, 15 BMW i3 REx
Hey guys, just to clarify:
When I removed my CLK550 pads from the calipers, they had a metal backing plate, but no "shim" between the backing plate and the piston. Is there supposed to be? You can see the marks on the backing plate where the ring of the caliper was forced up against it. Is this correct?
Piston | Backing Plate | Anti-Squeal Paste | Pad
My Akebono pads came with "shims" but these are I believe to be placed on the back of the pad as they came that way from the box. Is this correct, or do these "shims" get moved between the piston and the metal backing plate?
Thanks.
When I removed my CLK550 pads from the calipers, they had a metal backing plate, but no "shim" between the backing plate and the piston. Is there supposed to be? You can see the marks on the backing plate where the ring of the caliper was forced up against it. Is this correct?
Piston | Backing Plate | Anti-Squeal Paste | Pad
My Akebono pads came with "shims" but these are I believe to be placed on the back of the pad as they came that way from the box. Is this correct, or do these "shims" get moved between the piston and the metal backing plate?
Thanks.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Sorry I don't remember.
If there's backing plates on the pads, likely thats all you need...
I don't use the oil stuff on the back of the pads, ie anti squeal paste, since the calipers came with instruction that said not to. I went
along with the same way it was in the 1st place...
or did I use that spray on anti squeal stuff that dries on?
I forget!
If there's backing plates on the pads, likely thats all you need...
I don't use the oil stuff on the back of the pads, ie anti squeal paste, since the calipers came with instruction that said not to. I went
along with the same way it was in the 1st place...
or did I use that spray on anti squeal stuff that dries on?
I forget!
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11
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2004 c230 sedan
All,
I am a little confused on this thread...now since this is in the W203 section does that mean that Akebono pads that MG installed will fix on a stock W203 or will I need the whole BBK set-up???
Thanks in advance
I am a little confused on this thread...now since this is in the W203 section does that mean that Akebono pads that MG installed will fix on a stock W203 or will I need the whole BBK set-up???
Thanks in advance
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From: VA
2002 C320
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From: bay area
C32 AMG
dont mean to thread jack but i just did this brake this weekend with zimmerman rotors and akebono euro ceramics. took some pix along the way as well and thought i would add them to this write up instead of starting my own thread. Also added some notes/observations.
back side of the rear (note the 2 bolts on the left side are the ones you need to remove)
pushing out the pins (I realized after doing this the first that that it's easier to start to tap the pins with the caliper still mounted and finish after you remove the caliper).
it also helps a huge amount to push down on the metal clip while pushing or pulling the pin out. After you pull the first pin completely lift and pull the retaining clip out. the second pin should remove very easily by hand.
removing the brake pad wear sensor (note 1 on the passenger side rear)
*akebono pads come with 2 brake pad wear sensors which did not fit the connector on the stock assembly so i just left the stock one plugged it and zip tied it back. Also note it was close to impossible for me to get the original brake pad wear sensor into the akebono pads although the hole was drilled for them. I was worried about breaking the plastic sensor and having to buy a new one.
rear complete
backside of the front caliper. the 2 bolts with the blue locktite protruding are the ones youll need to remove.
-refer to the pix/notes above for removing the pins/clip
*note one brake pad wear sensor on front passenger side only. refer to pic/notes above
compression the pistons with a C-clamp and using the old brake pad to protect the pistons
front complete
back side of the rear (note the 2 bolts on the left side are the ones you need to remove)
pushing out the pins (I realized after doing this the first that that it's easier to start to tap the pins with the caliper still mounted and finish after you remove the caliper).
it also helps a huge amount to push down on the metal clip while pushing or pulling the pin out. After you pull the first pin completely lift and pull the retaining clip out. the second pin should remove very easily by hand.
removing the brake pad wear sensor (note 1 on the passenger side rear)
*akebono pads come with 2 brake pad wear sensors which did not fit the connector on the stock assembly so i just left the stock one plugged it and zip tied it back. Also note it was close to impossible for me to get the original brake pad wear sensor into the akebono pads although the hole was drilled for them. I was worried about breaking the plastic sensor and having to buy a new one.
rear complete
backside of the front caliper. the 2 bolts with the blue locktite protruding are the ones youll need to remove.
-refer to the pix/notes above for removing the pins/clip
*note one brake pad wear sensor on front passenger side only. refer to pic/notes above
compression the pistons with a C-clamp and using the old brake pad to protect the pistons
front complete
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Wow, you did front and back?
Cool. The rotors in front are new?
And they're from Zimmerman, not MBZ? As someone asked?
What made you decide to go with zimmerman?
Did you sand all the grey paint off the front rotors? Or is that just an MB thing?
I am still very happy with my Akebono's up front.
Don't know what I was thinking when I did the rears with
stock type pads. Though I don't recall any sensors on the back.
But it's nice not doing brakes every 20K miles!
Cool. The rotors in front are new?
And they're from Zimmerman, not MBZ? As someone asked?
What made you decide to go with zimmerman?
Did you sand all the grey paint off the front rotors? Or is that just an MB thing?
I am still very happy with my Akebono's up front.
Don't know what I was thinking when I did the rears with
stock type pads. Though I don't recall any sensors on the back.
But it's nice not doing brakes every 20K miles!
