Trick questions re: Brake replacement
#1
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Audi TTQC & W203 Sport
Trick questions re: Brake replacement
I STFA, and read the two DIY. For clarity's sake:
- the caliper retaining bolts are 17mm on the back side of the caliper?
- what does the star-bolt on the front side do?
- torque values on reinstall?
TIA!
- the caliper retaining bolts are 17mm on the back side of the caliper?
- what does the star-bolt on the front side do?
- torque values on reinstall?
TIA!
![drive](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/driving.gif)
#3
Super Member
Having just done the front brakes on my '06 sport I can help a little. The two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket are 18mm not 17mm. They will be difficult to remove at first. I used the biggest breaker bar I had and finally got them loose. If you have an impact gun that will fit in the wheel well, you're better off using that. Most impact socket sets do not include an 18mm socket so make sure you have one before you start.
The two Torx (star) bolts on the outside face of the caliper are there to hold the caliper together and should NOT be removed under any circumstances. This will break the seal and the caliper will need to be rebuilt.
I do not know exact torque figures for putting the two bracket bolts back in but BMW states to use 25 foot pounds.
The only other specialty tool you will need is a T30 Torx bit to remove the retaining screw in the rotor. I bought a single Torx bit to use on a 3/8" drive ratchet for about $6 as a screw driver version would not remove the screw and I was afraid of stripping it out. A large nail set works well for driving the pins out that hold the brake pads or you can use a 1/8" pin punch.
All in all a very easy DIY project. Just make sure you look at where everything goes before you remove parts.
The two Torx (star) bolts on the outside face of the caliper are there to hold the caliper together and should NOT be removed under any circumstances. This will break the seal and the caliper will need to be rebuilt.
I do not know exact torque figures for putting the two bracket bolts back in but BMW states to use 25 foot pounds.
The only other specialty tool you will need is a T30 Torx bit to remove the retaining screw in the rotor. I bought a single Torx bit to use on a 3/8" drive ratchet for about $6 as a screw driver version would not remove the screw and I was afraid of stripping it out. A large nail set works well for driving the pins out that hold the brake pads or you can use a 1/8" pin punch.
All in all a very easy DIY project. Just make sure you look at where everything goes before you remove parts.
#4
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Audi TTQC & W203 Sport
Thanks- I've looked on the back side of my C230 SSK caliper, and have only star bolts. I'll look again for some 18mm hex bolts on the caliper to upright assembly. Weird. I'll go look again. I've done plenty of brakes, and it sure seems as if MB went to some length to discourage DIY.
All I'm looking to do is change the pads. Wish they'd slip out after releasing the retainer pins and springs. Off to collect some small tools!
Thanks again!
All I'm looking to do is change the pads. Wish they'd slip out after releasing the retainer pins and springs. Off to collect some small tools!
Thanks again!
Last edited by InTTruder; 10-16-2007 at 01:01 PM.
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a quarter mile at a time
Thanks- I've looked on the back side of my C230 SSK caliper, and have only star bolts. I'll look again for some 18mm hex bolts on the caliper to upright assembly. Weird. I'll go look again. I've done plenty of brakes, and it sure seems as if MB went to some length to discourage DIY.
All I'm looking to do is change the pads. Wish they'd slip out after releasing the retainer pins and springs. Off to collect some small tools!
Thanks again!
All I'm looking to do is change the pads. Wish they'd slip out after releasing the retainer pins and springs. Off to collect some small tools!
Thanks again!
#6
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Aah! So I don't have to remove the calipers on the Benz! Excellent.
Now that I'm over that little 'dooh' moment, back to work!
Now that I'm over that little 'dooh' moment, back to work!
#7
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If all you are doing is replacing the pads, it's quite simple and should take less than an hour.
1. Tap pins that hold pads and retaining springs out.
2. Wiggle pads out, maybe using a screw driver in the pin holes to help a little.
3. Use a C-clamp to push pistons back in a little (the new pads will need more room as they are thicker)
4. Apply brake grease between new brake pad and metal shim, and wait about 20 minutes.
5. Slide new pads in and replace spring clip and pins.
6. Pump brake pedal a few times to build up pressure and test drive.
Done. No need to remove caliper unless you plan on replacing the rotors.
1. Tap pins that hold pads and retaining springs out.
2. Wiggle pads out, maybe using a screw driver in the pin holes to help a little.
3. Use a C-clamp to push pistons back in a little (the new pads will need more room as they are thicker)
4. Apply brake grease between new brake pad and metal shim, and wait about 20 minutes.
5. Slide new pads in and replace spring clip and pins.
6. Pump brake pedal a few times to build up pressure and test drive.
Done. No need to remove caliper unless you plan on replacing the rotors.
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#11
Super Member
Here's a link to the one that I used.....https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/209929-akebono-brake-pad-install-review-bed-afterthoughts.html and is pretty inclusive. I added a few things in my recent post reviewing the Morse Ceramic pads that may be helpfull.