Lynn

i]Originally posted by eason [/i]
Just have some questions in my head now. What if I put 94 octane fuel with "base" setting, will it do any good to me with the Pulley? Since higher octane and prevent knocking or pre-ignition.
[/QUOTE]

If the ECU is not sensing the onset of detonation and therefore retarding the timing, 94 octane will not be needed or add any hp. If you are talking about the pre-ignition caused by the lean a/f ratio, 94 octane might help, but it would be better to prevent the situation by going to "Stage 2".

Yes, colder plugs will reduce the the likelyhood of pre-ignition. But, remember that MB is now using plugs that are one range colder than those used in W202 C230k's and early SLK230k's.

BlackC230Coupe

i am sure they would, but its not worth a 7-8 hour drive from where i am.

BlackC230Coupe

If the ECU is not sensing the onset of detonation and therefore retarding the timing, 94 octane will not be needed or add any hp. If you are talking about the pre-ignition caused by the lean a/f ratio, 94 octane might help, but it would be better to prevent the situation by going to "Stage 2".



Yes, colder plugs will reduce the the likelyhood of pre-ignition. But, remember that MB is now using plugs that are one range colder than those used in W202 C230k's and early SLK230k's. [/QUOTE]

after seeing this, and knowing how hard it will be for me to have the settings changed would any of these help me? I always put in 93 octane fuel, and if i went to colder plugs will that have any negitive effect on performance?

And i am sorry for being so stupid but i do not under stand all this stuff about pre-ignition and detonation? whats the difference? and what happens with each? Those things can make the engine blow?

Lynn

Pre-ignition and detonation are often use interchangably, but they are not exactly the same thing.

The above quotes are from this article: http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm


Another excellent article: http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...e_Basics_I.php

One more with drawings: http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/_techtalk/00000007.htm

BlackC230Coupe

Thanks, the links were very helpful.

So me using my regular 93 octane fuel and changing to colder pulgs may help it a little, but it may not prevent it? will the colder plugs have any negitive effect on performance?

And since the stage 2 fuel setting would make things alot easier, is there anything else anyone can reccommend me emailing him back with to make him do it?

Thanks

Buellwinkle

I run on watered down 91 octane in California and I don't have any detonation problems or the ecu pulling back timing because of it. Also we have a very arid climate, your insane humidity actually lowers your chances of detonation greatly. When I had a Buell motorcycle, they had a tech bulletin for colder plugs on California bikes because of detonation caused by the dry weather.

eason

Our C230K is using NGK R IR6D10(if I remember correctly), it's a Iridium spark plug with 6 heat range and 0.040" gap. I think changing to a 7 heat range plug would help a bit.

Buellwinkle

Don't forget to close up the gap a bit if using cooler plugs.

BlackC230Coupe

I dont think i will have my Fuel settings changed at all now. I think it may be fine at base. The only things i am concerned about now is not having the harmonic damper and not changing the alt. pulley because i use my A/C and system all the time. But hopefully it will be fine for 2 years, till i get rid of the car.

By the way buell, are your fuel settings on base now? and u still dont have any detonation problems?

BlackC230Coupe

the pulley finally came on wednesday, (i did not have time to post then) but i am very impressed with the quality of the pulley. There is not one imperfection visible.
I am planning on having it installed sometime after christmas, so hopefully it will be done before next friday.
I am planning on keeping all my settings on base. (as no dealer in my area will change them)
Also please correct me if i am wrong, on the 2 things i need to remember, 1. toget a 56" 6 rib belt and 2. to have the pulley toqured to 85ft. lbs? should i have it done to 90? or just 85? and is locktite a must?

thanks

heres proof for the pulley.

BlackC230Coupe

ummmm no ones here???

i really wanted to know if 85ft.lbs is the max the pulley should be toqured? and if locktite is required?

levelr123g

mdp c230k
you sure are set on a pulley doing bearing damage, I ASK YOU HOW?
If these engines are internally balanced, which they are then adding a balanced pulley to the end will have no effect. Also if you read back through the posts you will see that I posted an example of engines which have no balancers on them. These engines run at several thousand rpms up to 15000 in some cases and they do not use dampners. Dampners are there to take some shock out of the accesories cycling, that is it. This was a myth with the honda engines and their oil pumps exploding due to lightened crank pullies. Is all I can say is that I ran a pulley for years and not one oil pump failure.

speedfrk

BlackC230Coupe,
How long did it take for you to get your pulley from the time you ordered it until it showed up?
BTW, I would ask ASP what to torque it to. They should definately know since it is their part.

BlackC230Coupe

i ordered the pulley on 11/5/02 and got it 12/18/02


i was just wondering even if ASP reccomends 85ft. lbs of toqure will that be enough for it not to come loose? and i am stilll waiting for someone to comment on the locktite.

vadim

I torqued it to 100 ft*lbs. Locktite is a cheap insurance - vibrations can do wonders in loosening any threaded fastener. Just think of possible consequences if the pulley comes loose spinning at 4000 rpm - it will probably have a few good bounces in the engine compartment before coming to rest.

BlackC230Coupe

so are you saying i should use locktite? because after hearing you say "vibrations can do wonders in loosening any threaded fastener" it does not make me think it helps to much. And also maybe i should just toqure it to 90ft. lbs to be safer than 80.

vadim

Loktite is glue - it bonds to both bolt and crankshaft inner thread, securing the bolt in place. If you don't use it, vibrations (combined with thermal expansions/contractions) will eventually loosen the bolt, even if you torque it tighter than the recommended value.

Matt230K

Even if there is a chance that the locktite will not hold, using it is still better than not using it. And make sure you get the high temperature kind, I think it's red. Plus, once you get the bolt tight, don't mess with it anymore. The locktite will dry and then if you move the bolt more, you will break the locktite loose and have to do it all over again.

Outland

Locktite increases the 'breakaway' torque by as much as 50 percent. When you start into the 80-100ft-lbs range for input torque, you need to start considering what the threads and the fastener can take. This is a lot of force. You only want to stretch the bolt enough to lock the threads, not spin the head off. I'd go with whatever torque the MB manual reccomends for the stock pulley and some locktite.

Matt230K

The stock pulley is steel, but the ASP pulley is aluminum, so it cannot take the same amount of force from the bolt. The stock torque is like 225 lb-ft., and this would deform the aluminum. For a Kleemann pulley, 225 is fine because it has some steel in the sleeve that goes around the crankshaft. But the ASP is all aluminum and would likely crush.

BlackC230Coupe

i am planning on bringing my car to a shop to have the pulley installed, do u think that a shop has locktite? or do i need to buy some and bring it? where do u buy it if i need to get it?

oh and by the way, i am not 100% sure but i thought that the ASP pulley does have a steel sleeve.

Matt230K

My information on the ASP pulley only comes from this forum, and I don't think i've ever heard anything about the steel sleeve, but I could be wrong. I know from talking to someone at Kleemann that there's does.

A shop should have locktite, but you might want to take some just incase. Go to any auto parts store, they should have it. It's probably called High-Temp RTV sealant or something like that and should be red.

BlackC230Coupe

thanks, i will pick up some locktite just incase.

i somehow never asked ASP if it had a steel sleeve but i thought i remember buellwinkle saying it did, i know that there is a silver sleeve over the small hole (what ever u call it), although i dont know its its alluminum or steel.

vadim

It is steel, indeed.

DCXdynodog

A magnet will stick to steel or iron (except high quality stainless steel) but will not stick to aluminum.

Grab a magnet and see if it sticks.