- Mercedes-Benz C-Class and C-Class AMG: Why is My Power Steering Noisy?
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions
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infamous power steering whining noise problem
The problem became worse and worse to the point where there is much greater effort involved in turning the wheel.
How do I temporarily bleed the p/s system of air? I'm hoping this isn't too expensive a problem to fix.
thanks.
The problem became worse and worse to the point where there is much greater effort involved in turning the wheel.
How do I temporarily bleed the p/s system of air? I'm hoping this isn't too expensive a problem to fix.
thanks.
i've had to go to the dealership twice for this exact same problem. and now i just top it off myself.

Purchased MB Power Steering fluid, put in about 1.5 fl. oz. Started, the car, let it warm up for a few minutes, and then started turning the wheel lock to lock.
I noticed some type of oil coating the front of the camshaft head covers and a little residue on the backside of the power steering pump and leakage on some of the hose clamps. I'll take a picture to clear things up.
Anyhow, afterwards, I stopped the engine, looked inside the p/s fluid reservoir and found lots of foaming bubbles. The bubbles along with signs of very minor leakage around the hoses clamps would seem to indicate that air is infiltrating the power steering system, correct?
Anyone want to send me a .pdf of the power steering pump/reservoir installation procedure

Thanks, and you guys are the best!
Then about 2-3 weeks later, the same thing. Again, the fluid is bone dry. The odd part is that there is no fluid leaking from the car while its parked, my parking spot is dry. I take it to the dealer again, and they put it on the jack to check it out. They tell me that the power steering rack needs to be replaced.
They replaced it under warranty but the bill would have been $2800 parts and labour. They also did an alignment.
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There's a large leak where the hose connects to the steering rack. I'm praying that the rack does not need replacement. I haven't been able to take off the undertray and look, but it's at a shop right now.
Little Car Garage in Waltham MA is the best shop in the world! I'm hoping that it's just a bunch of seals and not much else.
thanks,
Ben
Then about 2-3 weeks later, the same thing. Again, the fluid is bone dry. The odd part is that there is no fluid leaking from the car while its parked, my parking spot is dry. I take it to the dealer again, and they put it on the jack to check it out. They tell me that the power steering rack needs to be replaced.
They replaced it under warranty but the bill would have been $2800 parts and labour. They also did an alignment.
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It's hidden underneath the drivers side intake hose. Take the nose off, and voila, you'll see a small black reservoir with a black twist off cap (black on mine). Looking directly at the engine with the hood up, it sits on the on the dorsal edge (top), on the bow (closest to you), to the port (side). 'bleh, Basically, from where the intake hose connects to the engine cover, a few inches forward and recessed about 6 inches, you will see a roundish cap.
To the other poster inquiring about the Little Car Garage in Waltham. It is the best. Everyone I have referred to it, has raved it's service. http://www.lfcg.com
They are a bunch of mostly BMW aficionado's and enthusiasts but they specialize in both MB's, BMW's and European cars. I bring my Honda's as well. They also have the correct diagnostic equipment for MB's as well. They are also very quick and extremely thorough. Most importantly, they get it done RIGHT the first time. Plus there rates are extremely affordable to the point where gift giving was in order to show them gratitude. I have a feeling they under billed me for the amount of hours they put in.
Last shop I went to, Cork Auto in Jamaica Plain, just got it plain wrong. My passenger side low-beam HID was lazy. It would rarely fire upon ignition. Usually it took about 5-10 minutes for it to fire. From then on, it remained constant. Cork Auto replaced the HID control unit rather than the ballast or ignitor. That did not solve the problem. That was two years ago. Now i'm out quite a few hundred for something that i didn't need in the first place.
Little Car Garage asked about that and when I told them that the control unit had been replaced, they found it a non-traditional way of fixing the problem without knowing or disparaging the other shop.
If you read a post a little back, I had a problem where the CEL came on and the car had extremely reduced power. AutoZone code reader revealed a cylinder misfire on all 3 on the passengers side bank Vee.
So I bought $184 worth of spark plugs (12 Denso Iridium) hoping that would solve the problem. I was ****ting bricks at this point thinking of all the $$. LFCG through thorough testing determined the passegers side cat was plugged and a small vacuum leak existed. They also determined that all 4 02 sensors were working, and that the MAF would soon need replacement.
Emissions was under warranty. Service Rep at MB dealer tried the standard trick of selling me needless crap to the amount of $1800 but would take 10% off since it cost so much. They said, I needed new air filters, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a new MAF sensor. They wanted $800 alone for parts/labor for the MAF. I changed it after for $250 myself in parts.
Diplomatically, I called the service rep on the upsell they finally agreed that that LFCG was right. Luckily they replaced both Cats since the other cracked or something. I threw the a bone by letting them replace the air filters for a little over a hundred.
Along the way LFCG was willing to goto battle for me and took time out of there day to help me with the battle.
Anyhow, LFCG kicks *** and if anyone says otherwise, i'll smack you in person. https://mbworld.org/forums/images/sm...smashfreak.gif
Last edited by c320-3216; Jan 8, 2008 at 02:05 PM.
Check the fluid level while engine is cold. If low, fill it. If noise is still present, air is in the system. Now, turn the engine on and with car warmed up, turn the wheel lock to lock a couple of times to bleed any air out. I hold the wheel in the lock position for about 4 seconds each side. I cycle it about 2-4 times.
then let it cool down and check the level again. Fill if necessary.
If the noise comes back, then you got an air leak and need to visit LFCG where if you treat them with respect, they will take care of you. I don't recommend Cork Auto in JP.
Thanks again for the help...
Why does this part fail and why is it so expensive to replace?
thanks,
car still under warranty so I'm gonna take it in and enjoy my loaner car. I hope they give me a new rack and an alignment (needs it bad)
is it still safe to drive for a few days with the whining noise?
Last edited by benz_addict; Jan 27, 2008 at 09:35 PM.









