anyone ever hear the newest Rockford Fosgate Punch subs? I'm thinking of going with 1 10" They are cheaper than the JL's but i hear good things...

 

i'm using there amps, there pretty good for the price you pay.

 

are you using the Punch series? I'm thinking of getting the RF Punch P3D210 10" sub and the RF Prime R500-1 monoblock sub amp. They are both pretty cheap but have great reviews.

I used to use RF Punch equip. back in the day and was happy with it, but i'm not too sure of the Prime series for RF, its basically the entry level stuff. Anyone have experience with the RF Prime series?

 

Hey Glyn,

so if you're a audio nut... i'm sure you're more fluent with this stuff than i am. could you recommend an ideal audio upgrade for me?

i currently have a pioneer AVIC-D3 with a bunch of the extras (ipod, reverse camera, etc...) but am still running the basic basic stock speakers in my coupe with no sub. i want to have a nice upgrade (speakers and sub) and would like to spend in the range of 600-800 for these (not including labor).

i posted earlier that i'm looking into the infinity basslink and you seemed to like that option... but what would you do recommend for me given my budget?

thanks!

ps- i've ready through this thread and others and hear a lot of brands and names being thrown around (rainbow, diamond audio components, JL, infinity, etc.. for different things like speakers and subs)... i'm just curious what you like best given my price range and setup

 

MK - This is not as easy as it sounds. I have no idea of car audio pricing in the US. I'm used to home audio with Magneplanar speakers the size of doors & Audio Research Tube amplification in a system that costs more than some spend on a house.

Some guidance - The electro mechanicals are always the weakest link - i.e. speakers. However to drive decent speakers you need a decent amp with decent power supplies. Powerful amps don't blow speakers - wimpy amps with hopeless power supplies do because they clip.

Your Pioneer is fine - you might want at some stage to use it as a head unit & buy a more potent outboard amp.

Your best bet is a powered sub so that the amps in the Pioneer are relieved of high power consumption bass service - Go Infinity or JL

Then the rest of the speakers go Infinity or Polk - Matthew Polk has designed some direct replacements for the stock set up so you don't have to cut the car to pieces. Infinity also have direct replacements. Proper mounting & damping of the doors will help.

Buy the best speakers from either of those two that your budget can afford.

I'm talking about good sound at a reasonable price. The trouble is that car audio has become a fashion statement & people spend a lot of money on crap bling in fancy cases with flashing lights & meters and crap that usually does more harm to the sound than good. If you do buy a new amp at some stage - don't buy class D amps - they are crap - sound awful.

Read this so I don't have to repeat myself

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-possible.html

 

yeah im using the older punch series. i wouldnt use them to run a w7 but everything else i think there fine.

 

Im currently running a 12" Kicker L7 with a 1200 watt hifonics amp pushing it.. Im looking for a better sub. Any suggestions?

 

Buy the best JL Audio powered sub you can afford. You don't need 1200 watts but I guess these big BS numbers come with the car audio territory.

 

yeah, watts is just the max wattage they can run. you want to go by rms since thats the actual wattage they use.

 

2 L7s, am i missing something , what are you looking to get? You need a better amp for sure, but L7s are good, they will blow up my car if i put em on. get a
Boston Acoustics SPG 555 sub

And a Alpine Pdx . 1- 1000...
im not paying for windows

 

I only have 1 L7, 2 would be too much...

But i have the BXi1208 dont really know how many rms it has. Thats why im here for suggestions.

 

mk: you'll need at least a 4 channel amp, a set of 6.5" components and a pair of 5 1/4 co axials to fill the stock mounting holes. you can add a sub and sub amp later. you can also grab a 5 channel amp now and add the sub at a later date.

 

How about a 10" solo X? Im pretty sure that would destroy my trunk.

 

i have a Boston GT-50 for sale .. 5 channel..

 

 

I really dont know anything about subwoofers... so....
Which is better?
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...-SW1001S2%7CS4

or

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...low/TS-SW1041D

I know they are not the best subs just wanting a daily driven subs that doesnt eat space.. and JL shallow is out of my price range...

 

The first one & of course the more expensive one.

 

thanks for the reply... i realized i asked a hard question. but i really appreciate the advice and direction. i will look into this further. i just wanted to avoid going to an auido shop with no ammunition. thanks!!

 

No problem - I'll bet you know more about the subject than the audio shop guys. They just talk endless crap - I don't know who the hell trains them. When I lived in Dallas & later, Marin County - Bay Area, I battled to find people that knew anything. Found one good dealer in Dallas & one good guy in Walnut Creek, CA.

Otherwise I would just go into the store - ask to be left alone - & ultimately just tell them what I wanted. If they would not leave me alone I just walked out.

 

Walnut Creek? Which shop? will drop them a visit when I am ready... any thx for the picking out the subs

 

Sorry - I might have misled you - I was talking about High End audio stores - not car audio. I've never found any sensible sales people in car audio - period. Nevertheless:

Liz and David Hare of Stereo Unlimited in Walnut Creek. They really know their stuff & David, out of that small specialist shop is the largest Magneplanar dealer in the world. Liz used to play with the SF Symphony Orchestra.

You might want to pop in and ask them for advice. Both have excellent ears.

 

I WAS MISLEADED!!! jk...

one last question: Which is the best bet for pioneer amps from the prs (only can afford one) and gm (can afford two) series and the cheapest from championship series (only can afford one)??? Most prob PRS-D2200T right? I will be running two of the shallow subs

 

so stock audio 20 system with 6 speakers and empty rear deck...I'm currently running kenwood amp with 2 10" JL subs in the trunk...my speakers are starting to go due to under powering from the h/u...If i replace stock speakers with oem speakers and power them them a new 4 channel amp can I still run the tweeters to the h/u and the 4 door speakers to the 4 channel amp? or should I get a 6 channel amp?

Also what size speakers is the rear deck designed to hold? I was thinking about either putting my 10" JL up there or getting a couple 6x9 or 5x7 assuming I can run my tweeters through the h/u and get a 6 channel to run doors and rear deck speakers!

any thoughts or advice guys?

 

lol. i just saw this thread and post now. you heard and saw mine. exactly as what your looking for just a diff amp. clean sound. no rumble outside the car just inside. thats the way to go for the benzo.

 

if you have time to come to cali come here and check mines. our cars take 6.5 front and rear. i highly suggest you use 2-way or 3-way speakers on the rear(depends on your taste of sound) and 101% use separates/components for the front they will always come with crossovers/filters where you plug in the tweeter and speaker then goes directly to your amp. your AMP 6CH im using the same thing to run all interior speakers and sub. runs pretty good. BUT! with the stock HU on a hot long driving day the whole system likes to shut up until it cools down. dont remember why but ive read people talking about it here. so now i dont use the stock HU. So change your HU first, it makes a really big diff even if you use your stock speakers its louder and clearer. hope this helps!