DIY - M271 $12 hose replacement
#52
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
F10
I just did this fix. I also found out that you can use a regular 6 point 8mm socket wrench in lieu of the e10, this will come very handy when you try to remove the e10 bolt that is surrounded by a pipe, you'll see what I mean when you get there.
Thanks to the OP for starting this thread.
Thanks to the OP for starting this thread.
#54
![Unhappy](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/icons/icon9.gif)
I have a c180K 2003 - it idles fine and if driven hard its also fine but driven normally it stutters at about 2000 rpm - I am wondering if this breather hose might be the problem - there are no fault codes and nothing turning up on the Star Diagnostic. One mechanic suggested sticking valves so I have flushed the engine and used a top end treatment - no change - but if the valves were sticking would it not happen all the time? My car only faulters under power? any help much appreciated.
#55
Hi, I just replaced my breather hose too. To remove the air intake box. Just follow the piping from the airbox towards the maf down to a hose clip. Use a 7mm socket to undo you can remove the whole box. remember to unclip all sensor wires attached to the box. there is one near the front of airbox. will post pictures of the clip later need to take a shower. all sweaty and sticky haha.
#56
I read through this thread and found that there was a recall for this hose problem. My issue is that I paid to have this done in 2005 before there was a recall. I found the receipt and I paid $178.00 to have it fixed. That was a long time ago but maybe some of you know whether or not I can after a reimbursement from the dealer that fixed it. Anybody know?
Thanks
Thanks
#58
those crankcase vent line cause all sorts of idling problems on 271 engines,
to fix it properly you must remove the intake manifold and kompressor as there are actually 3 hoses and a valve in that line. and not only does that upper hose split but the one way valve also breaks in half.
to fix it properly you must remove the intake manifold and kompressor as there are actually 3 hoses and a valve in that line. and not only does that upper hose split but the one way valve also breaks in half.
#60
Vacuum valve direction?
Hi all, this is a great site, such a lot of useful information!
Please can someone assit me with the correct placement of the one way vacuum valve on my M271 motor. While attempting the replacement of the valve it disintegrated on first touch! It just fell out of the two pipes! Now I am not 100% sure of the correct direction to fit the replacement. Should the arrow on the valve that says "to motor" face the upper short hose as indicated in my attached picture?
Thanks in advance.
Please can someone assit me with the correct placement of the one way vacuum valve on my M271 motor. While attempting the replacement of the valve it disintegrated on first touch! It just fell out of the two pipes! Now I am not 100% sure of the correct direction to fit the replacement. Should the arrow on the valve that says "to motor" face the upper short hose as indicated in my attached picture?
Thanks in advance.
The following users liked this post:
stwilson (01-27-2018)
#62
Well, I just finished this repair tonight. In all, the job took about two hours to complete. I read through this thread four or five times, hit Sears and Harbor Freight for a few extra tools and decided tonight was the night. Because I read the thread so many times, I was prepared for all the gotchas. However, I'll admit I was severely disappointed when I removed the existing hose, inspected it and could not find any tears holes or issues.
Naturally, I continued on with the repair, figuring I would chalk this one up in the experience category. I completed the job, double checked all the connections, made sure all the bolts/screws were back in order and started up the car (with the AC on). To my surprise, the knocking, clanking, however you describe the noise was GONE. My C230 was back to normal and purred like she use to.
A big thank you to the OP and everyone who posted tips to make this DIY a success.
It sure is nice to complete these repairs for a fraction of what the stealer charges.
Naturally, I continued on with the repair, figuring I would chalk this one up in the experience category. I completed the job, double checked all the connections, made sure all the bolts/screws were back in order and started up the car (with the AC on). To my surprise, the knocking, clanking, however you describe the noise was GONE. My C230 was back to normal and purred like she use to.
A big thank you to the OP and everyone who posted tips to make this DIY a success.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#63
well done!!!
.did you remove the compressor?...I think this process requires to jackup the car?
Do you think it would be possible to replace the 3rd hose (part 107 in the epc diagram above) without removing the compressor e.g using a special tool maybe?
.did you remove the compressor?...I think this process requires to jackup the car?
Do you think it would be possible to replace the 3rd hose (part 107 in the epc diagram above) without removing the compressor e.g using a special tool maybe?
#64
Super Member
***UPDATE***
I received a letter from MB Canada the other day re: a hose that may cause "rough operation" if left unchecked. Probably the same hose again. Finally, a year after everyone in USA got the recall![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
However, my SA gave me a DIFFERENT part number for the hose they're sticking in.![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
(A?)271-010-00-82-05 (no idea what the 05 means)
The $12 hose may have been superceded yet again!
I received a letter from MB Canada the other day re: a hose that may cause "rough operation" if left unchecked. Probably the same hose again. Finally, a year after everyone in USA got the recall
![smash](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smashfreak.gif)
However, my SA gave me a DIFFERENT part number for the hose they're sticking in.
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
(A?)271-010-00-82-05 (no idea what the 05 means)
The $12 hose may have been superceded yet again!
https://www.carpartsdiscount.com/aut...tml?3593=74759
This is the part that was referenced on my recall back in Oct 2008 ... assuming they installed everything that came in the kit, this would have been a thorough recall service.
#65
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
C180K, 2005, W203, m271, 165k miles
Hi all, this is a great site, such a lot of useful information!
Please can someone assit me with the correct placement of the one way vacuum valve on my M271 motor. While attempting the replacement of the valve it disintegrated on first touch! It just fell out of the two pipes! Now I am not 100% sure of the correct direction to fit the replacement. Should the arrow on the valve that says "to motor" face the upper short hose as indicated in my attached picture?
Thanks in advance.
Please can someone assit me with the correct placement of the one way vacuum valve on my M271 motor. While attempting the replacement of the valve it disintegrated on first touch! It just fell out of the two pipes! Now I am not 100% sure of the correct direction to fit the replacement. Should the arrow on the valve that says "to motor" face the upper short hose as indicated in my attached picture?
Thanks in advance.
Just replacing all vacuum hoses and wonder what direction is that valve (A2710180329) facing. It was replaced a year ago in a local non MB garage and at the moment my intake manifold is full of oil which I believe is sucked in through that vacuum line. I think if I change the direction of the valve it won't suck oil anymore as its one way valve. But not sure!!!
Any thoughts much appreciated?
#66
Junior Member
#68
MBWorld Fanatic!
Great video, VVF! I'm a little dismayed (but not really surpised) that I have to buy a tool to take the hose clamp off. It seems like that would be the only time I'd use it!
![action](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/action1.gif)
#69
did yoy solve the engine vibration
i replaced both the upper and lower hoses and still have the problem and there is no any code in my car....
plz help me if u solved ur problem and how????
plz help me if u solved ur problem and how????
#70
did u solve it ???
I have a c180K 2003 - it idles fine and if driven hard its also fine but driven normally it stutters at about 2000 rpm - I am wondering if this breather hose might be the problem - there are no fault codes and nothing turning up on the Star Diagnostic. One mechanic suggested sticking valves so I have flushed the engine and used a top end treatment - no change - but if the valves were sticking would it not happen all the time? My car only faulters under power? any help much appreciated.
i replaced both the upper and lower hoses and still have the problem and there is no any code in my car....
plz help me if u solved ur problem and how????
#72
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,087
Likes: 0
Received 204 Likes
on
195 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Dealership can probably pull an updated part number (if there is one) from the original part 271-010-00-82-05.
Last edited by slammer111; 03-08-2016 at 07:29 PM.
#73
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 C-230 Kompressor Sedan
271-018-12-82
Actually, that's the right part number I believe from the first page. The crankcase breather hose. America.. same end numbers, different front number. Could also be because its a coupe, and I'm a sedan, but I doubt it.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B...ons/ES1809583/
Actually, that's the right part number I believe from the first page. The crankcase breather hose. America.. same end numbers, different front number. Could also be because its a coupe, and I'm a sedan, but I doubt it.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_B...ons/ES1809583/
#75
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 C-230 Kompressor Sedan
I tried this job a couple of weekends ago and its really not that bad. The ONLY thing that kept me from finishing was the damn clamp on the boot. I bought the tool I needed, but someone angled mine toward the firewall at an impossible angle for that tool. I'm going to have to get it to a shop and have them move the clamp to a spot where I can actually get to it. Just from looking, my hose was decent, but I could tell it was an older gen part number because of what the material was made out of. That and I found what looked like an oil leak on top of the "motor front" valve that's sandwiched by the motor and super charger. Really hoping it isn't the head gasket. :-(