Reduce Engine Oil Level
#26
Super Moderator
Mark - do you know whether the US readout is recalibrated for quarts or whether that dyno mode reading is in fact litres like ROW?
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
All I know is it says "qts." on the display in increments of .1. I bet they list it in ltrs. for the appropriate countries. What does yours say? I wonder if there are different part numbers for the oil level sensor? One thing that was interesting when I did the check.... the readout would increase up to about 1/2 a quart if you waited 20 minutes and checked again. Same with the drain using the sump hole...it dripped 1/2 quart more after the stream stopped.
#28
Super Moderator
All I know is it says "qts." on the display in increments of .1. I bet they list it in ltrs. for the appropriate countries. What does yours say? I wonder if there are different part numbers for the oil level sensor? One thing that was interesting when I did the check.... the readout would increase up to about 1/2 a quart if you waited 20 minutes and checked again. Same with the drain using the sump hole...it dripped 1/2 quart more after the stream stopped.
#29
Super Moderator
One can measure the actual oil level in the sump using MB’s workshop method.
Quick, easy, and consistently accurate. No electronic shenanigans necessary.
Glyn-
My units of measure are selectable through the MFD’s “instrument cluster” options. Can’t speak for the others.
Please note C32 oil level (not capacity) specifications differ from those in the included attachments.
Quick, easy, and consistently accurate. No electronic shenanigans necessary.
Glyn-
My units of measure are selectable through the MFD’s “instrument cluster” options. Can’t speak for the others.
Please note C32 oil level (not capacity) specifications differ from those in the included attachments.
Last edited by splinter; 10-06-2010 at 07:02 AM.
#30
Happened to me last week when i bought my 2003 C230 Kompressor... apparently the guy at the shop where they changed the oil put in too much ,so I drained about 250ML and it fixed it.
The guy at the shop said that it is probably the sensor but I didn't think so haha.
Long story short, I went to RBM of Atlanta on Saturday and bought a dip stick.
Just checked my oil today, it was almost at the "max" mark on the dip stick.
I would suggest getting a dip stick if your model doesn't come with one. Just to be sure
The guy at the shop said that it is probably the sensor but I didn't think so haha.
Long story short, I went to RBM of Atlanta on Saturday and bought a dip stick.
Just checked my oil today, it was almost at the "max" mark on the dip stick.
I would suggest getting a dip stick if your model doesn't come with one. Just to be sure
#31
Super Moderator
One can measure the actual oil level in the sump using MB’s workshop method.
Quick, easy, and consistently accurate. No electronic shenanigans necessary.
Glyn-
My units of measure are selectable through the MFD’s “instrument cluster” options. Can’t speak for the others.
Please note C32 oil level (not capacity) specifications differ from those in the included attachments.
Quick, easy, and consistently accurate. No electronic shenanigans necessary.
Glyn-
My units of measure are selectable through the MFD’s “instrument cluster” options. Can’t speak for the others.
Please note C32 oil level (not capacity) specifications differ from those in the included attachments.
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
Gee Glyn,
Must be a 6 cyl problem.
I never have that problem with my lawnmower engine....
Didn't anyone ever teach you guys anything?
He he....
Always go a quart or so low, drive around the block let it sit for 5 minutes, and then check it and add more accordingly. Overfilling is really bad, and sometimes despite your best efforts, not all the old oil gets removed.
I go by the dipstick not what it says in Dyno mode and/or
what the level says when you do the oil check thing.
With our huge sumps it won't hurt to go a 1/2-1 quart low, they're designed to be able to be 2 quarts low before having to add oil. Better to have a little bit too little, than too much!!!!!!
Must be a 6 cyl problem.
I never have that problem with my lawnmower engine....
Didn't anyone ever teach you guys anything?
He he....
Always go a quart or so low, drive around the block let it sit for 5 minutes, and then check it and add more accordingly. Overfilling is really bad, and sometimes despite your best efforts, not all the old oil gets removed.
I go by the dipstick not what it says in Dyno mode and/or
what the level says when you do the oil check thing.
With our huge sumps it won't hurt to go a 1/2-1 quart low, they're designed to be able to be 2 quarts low before having to add oil. Better to have a little bit too little, than too much!!!!!!
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 04-30-2009 at 03:15 PM.
#33
Senior Member
help please!
So i decided to bring back a dated thread just to avoid starting a new one..
Today i changed my oil and forgot to put my car on dyno mode as i was filling oil today, and what do ya know..
I did NOT get any warning messages but i read the dyno screen right after changing the oil and it stated i have 9 qts (before changing, there was only 6.7qts but oil level was O.K.) and after checking the oil level on the screen, it read 'reduce oil level' on the oil measurment feature.
This is my first time removing oil, so my question is how do i do it? where do i suck it out? with what? I dont wanna mess anything up so i thought you guys could lead me to the right direction before i mess up even more.
What should i be concerned about with an engine overfilled with oil?
Also i used Mobil1 High Mileage Fully Synthetic 10w-40. I didnt read this thread until today so i see i should have been using 0w-40.
The reason im using the 10w-40 is because in sunny California, ive never seen temperatures drop less than 42 F where i live. My car has 89k miles and was told since it wasnt a new car, the thinness as temps increase of the 0w-40 was not needed since the engine is already 'lose/broken in' and as engines age, the thickness needs to be increased to reduce the oil consumption.
..Thanks in advance
Today i changed my oil and forgot to put my car on dyno mode as i was filling oil today, and what do ya know..
I did NOT get any warning messages but i read the dyno screen right after changing the oil and it stated i have 9 qts (before changing, there was only 6.7qts but oil level was O.K.) and after checking the oil level on the screen, it read 'reduce oil level' on the oil measurment feature.
This is my first time removing oil, so my question is how do i do it? where do i suck it out? with what? I dont wanna mess anything up so i thought you guys could lead me to the right direction before i mess up even more.
What should i be concerned about with an engine overfilled with oil?
Also i used Mobil1 High Mileage Fully Synthetic 10w-40. I didnt read this thread until today so i see i should have been using 0w-40.
The reason im using the 10w-40 is because in sunny California, ive never seen temperatures drop less than 42 F where i live. My car has 89k miles and was told since it wasnt a new car, the thinness as temps increase of the 0w-40 was not needed since the engine is already 'lose/broken in' and as engines age, the thickness needs to be increased to reduce the oil consumption.
..Thanks in advance
Last edited by holycaoAMG; 07-21-2009 at 04:44 PM.
#35
Super Moderator
So i decided to bring back a dated thread just to avoid starting a new one..
Today i changed my oil and forgot to put my car on dyno mode as i was filling oil today, and what do ya know..
I did NOT get any warning messages but i read the dyno screen right after changing the oil and it stated i have 9 qts (before changing, there was only 6.7qts but oil level was O.K.) and after checking the oil level on the screen, it read 'reduce oil level' on the oil measurment feature.
This is my first time removing oil, so my question is how do i do it? where do i suck it out? with what? I dont wanna mess anything up so i thought you guys could lead me to the right direction before i mess up even more.
What should i be concerned about with an engine overfilled with oil?
Also i used Mobil1 High Mileage Fully Synthetic 10w-40. I didnt read this thread until today so i see i should have been using 0w-40.
The reason im using the 10w-40 is because in sunny California, ive never seen temperatures drop less than 42 F where i live. My car has 89k miles and was told since it wasnt a new car, the thinness as temps increase of the 0w-40 was not needed since the engine is already 'lose/broken in' and as engines age, the thickness needs to be increased to reduce the oil consumption.
..Thanks in advance
Today i changed my oil and forgot to put my car on dyno mode as i was filling oil today, and what do ya know..
I did NOT get any warning messages but i read the dyno screen right after changing the oil and it stated i have 9 qts (before changing, there was only 6.7qts but oil level was O.K.) and after checking the oil level on the screen, it read 'reduce oil level' on the oil measurment feature.
This is my first time removing oil, so my question is how do i do it? where do i suck it out? with what? I dont wanna mess anything up so i thought you guys could lead me to the right direction before i mess up even more.
What should i be concerned about with an engine overfilled with oil?
Also i used Mobil1 High Mileage Fully Synthetic 10w-40. I didnt read this thread until today so i see i should have been using 0w-40.
The reason im using the 10w-40 is because in sunny California, ive never seen temperatures drop less than 42 F where i live. My car has 89k miles and was told since it wasnt a new car, the thinness as temps increase of the 0w-40 was not needed since the engine is already 'lose/broken in' and as engines age, the thickness needs to be increased to reduce the oil consumption.
..Thanks in advance
Good luck
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-21-2009 at 06:38 PM.
#36
Super Moderator
This is the Auto tranny dipstick tube - DO NOT SUCK FROM HERE
Suck engine oil from here:
Suck engine oil from here:
#37
Senior Member
Thanks so much for the reply.
Yeah, I change my oil every 8k miles anyway. 'Hopefully' nothing bad should happen within the next oil change though.
As for the dipstick tube, i'll be sure to look for that. [thanks for the pics!!!!]
So Glyn, i can use 0w-40 reguardless of mileage on the car right? just keep using it for the entire life of the car?
I can continue driving safely with this oil for now right? can anything go wrong? whats bad about having an engine with excesive oil?
Car seems to be driving the same, gas mileage same, ect. a lil better maybe (placebo?) seems to idle smoother/quieter.
Yeah, I change my oil every 8k miles anyway. 'Hopefully' nothing bad should happen within the next oil change though.
As for the dipstick tube, i'll be sure to look for that. [thanks for the pics!!!!]
So Glyn, i can use 0w-40 reguardless of mileage on the car right? just keep using it for the entire life of the car?
I can continue driving safely with this oil for now right? can anything go wrong? whats bad about having an engine with excesive oil?
Car seems to be driving the same, gas mileage same, ect. a lil better maybe (placebo?) seems to idle smoother/quieter.
Last edited by holycaoAMG; 07-21-2009 at 08:05 PM.
#38
Super Moderator
Oil will be fine for 8000 miles - Suck the excess oil out of dipstick tube. Running over full can build up pressure in the crankcase & blow seals etc. It can also push oil past rings & mess up O2 sensors & catalyst.
Please use 229.5 approved oils for whole cars life - viscosity is not important as long as the product is approved - a 0W-40 & a 10W-40 have the same viscosity at operating temp. See owners manual - Benz approve a number of different viscosities but the 229.5 is mandatory. In fact with 8000 mile drain you can use 229.3 oils but I would get the best. I know the M1 10W-40 is not approved. It fails the MB HTHS (high temperature high shear) test.
Engine could sound a little quieter with 10W-40 until it's fully warmed up. Fuel consumption will be worse.
Please use 229.5 approved oils for whole cars life - viscosity is not important as long as the product is approved - a 0W-40 & a 10W-40 have the same viscosity at operating temp. See owners manual - Benz approve a number of different viscosities but the 229.5 is mandatory. In fact with 8000 mile drain you can use 229.3 oils but I would get the best. I know the M1 10W-40 is not approved. It fails the MB HTHS (high temperature high shear) test.
Engine could sound a little quieter with 10W-40 until it's fully warmed up. Fuel consumption will be worse.
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
Search Function usage FTW! This is an example of proper Search Function usage. Take note.
I don't really have much to add except that my car's Dyno Mode displays the oil level in LITRES. It doesn't matter if I change the units in the settings or not, it won't display quarts. Since my capacity is 5.8QTS, I just make sure it stays around 5.5L. Right now it says 5.7L but doesn't give me any overfill warning.
So, Glyn, maybe this answers your question. The electronic oil measurement feature was deleted altogether after 2005 in the W203. Apparently for the facelifted 2005, the unit is litres only.
I don't really have much to add except that my car's Dyno Mode displays the oil level in LITRES. It doesn't matter if I change the units in the settings or not, it won't display quarts. Since my capacity is 5.8QTS, I just make sure it stays around 5.5L. Right now it says 5.7L but doesn't give me any overfill warning.
So, Glyn, maybe this answers your question. The electronic oil measurement feature was deleted altogether after 2005 in the W203. Apparently for the facelifted 2005, the unit is litres only.
#41
Senior Member
#42
Super Moderator
#43
Senior Member
Help again PLEASE! (Bad Day Today!!!)
So today, i tried to reduce the oil. I got 1/2 qt out and the dyno screen went from 8.4 to 8.2qts, then after restarting the car, it showed ~7.6qts, it kept changing from 6.9- 8.4qts when idleing. Drove the car for a few miles with dyno screen on, it kept changing and slowly went back up to 8.3qts after i drained .5qts out! I am still getting the 'reduce oil level' warning.
What the heck is going on??? sensor? im afaid if i keep drainning out the oil, theres not enough left. As of right now, i 'should' have 8qts in it. [8.5 minus .5 is 8] whats causing this? what should i do??
I got a 'CE' light on right after the message. Code is p0334, the deadly CPS!
Car wont start, likes to stall and is making my day misserable!
I know its common, but what causes this? (besides heat)?
Does my problem match what causes the stalling from the CPS? or is it something else??
i want to make sure that the CPS is causing my car not start, is there any other likely causes for this??
ANY help is appreciated!!!
What the heck is going on??? sensor? im afaid if i keep drainning out the oil, theres not enough left. As of right now, i 'should' have 8qts in it. [8.5 minus .5 is 8] whats causing this? what should i do??
I got a 'CE' light on right after the message. Code is p0334, the deadly CPS!
Car wont start, likes to stall and is making my day misserable!
I know its common, but what causes this? (besides heat)?
Does my problem match what causes the stalling from the CPS? or is it something else??
i want to make sure that the CPS is causing my car not start, is there any other likely causes for this??
ANY help is appreciated!!!
#44
Super Moderator
Typical CPS - change CPS.
Holy - you can not check oil levels with the engine running. I don't think you have removed enough oil yet. Remember it is not possible to drain all the oil out of these cars so they never take what the manual says to refill.
BTW - you got your codes wrong 334 is a Knock sensor & won't cause your problem
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
Holy - you can not check oil levels with the engine running. I don't think you have removed enough oil yet. Remember it is not possible to drain all the oil out of these cars so they never take what the manual says to refill.
BTW - you got your codes wrong 334 is a Knock sensor & won't cause your problem
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-24-2009 at 08:37 PM.
#45
Senior Member
ah yes, i meant the p0335.
I see i should keep drainning more.
Just for future reference of my next oil change, how much should i add when doing my next change? im definately NOT going to add 8qts next time. maybe start with 6 and see if i need to add more?
many thanks Glyn
I see i should keep drainning more.
Just for future reference of my next oil change, how much should i add when doing my next change? im definately NOT going to add 8qts next time. maybe start with 6 and see if i need to add more?
many thanks Glyn
#46
Super Moderator
The best way is to measure what you take out - then replace the same amount. Start the car to circulate the oil & fill up the new filter. Then stop the car. give the oil a few minutes to drain back to the sump. Then top up with your display in dyno mode until at the correct level.
#47
Senior Member
Im curious,
you said overfilling a car with oil can build up pressure in the crankcase, is that why i am getting a code for a failed crankshaft position sensor?
Or do i have a different problem with the O2 sensors & catalyst?
I got code P2034 as well, what is that???
[i had both my valve cover gaskets changed, dont know if that has anything to do with this but just throwing it out]
you said overfilling a car with oil can build up pressure in the crankcase, is that why i am getting a code for a failed crankshaft position sensor?
Or do i have a different problem with the O2 sensors & catalyst?
I got code P2034 as well, what is that???
[i had both my valve cover gaskets changed, dont know if that has anything to do with this but just throwing it out]
Last edited by holycaoAMG; 07-24-2009 at 10:07 PM.
#48
Super Moderator
CPS will not be effected by high oil level. CPS reads crankshaft position at rear of motor on flywheel/flexplate.
P2034 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit
& is usually accompanied by Merc specific codes
P2031 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2032 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2033 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2080 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2081 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit intermittant (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
etc.
Exhaust temp codes could be triggered by high oil level.
Get level correct - Cancel all codes & replace CPS. Then drive the car & see if anything returns - I doubt you will get any codes after doing that.
P2034 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit
& is usually accompanied by Merc specific codes
P2031 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2032 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2033 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2080 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2081 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit intermittant (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
etc.
Exhaust temp codes could be triggered by high oil level.
Get level correct - Cancel all codes & replace CPS. Then drive the car & see if anything returns - I doubt you will get any codes after doing that.
#49
Senior Member
CPS will not be effected by high oil level. CPS reads crankshaft position at rear of motor on flywheel/flexplate.
P2034 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit
& is usually accompanied by Merc specific codes
P2031 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2032 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2033 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2080 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2081 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit intermittant (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
etc.
Exhaust temp codes could be triggered by high oil level.
Get level correct - Cancel all codes & replace CPS. Then drive the car & see if anything returns - I doubt you will get any codes after doing that.
P2034 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit
& is usually accompanied by Merc specific codes
P2031 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2032 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2033 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P2080 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P2081 = Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit intermittant (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
etc.
Exhaust temp codes could be triggered by high oil level.
Get level correct - Cancel all codes & replace CPS. Then drive the car & see if anything returns - I doubt you will get any codes after doing that.
CPS is coming to me in a few hours, im gonna drain out another quart clear the codes, drive and see how it goes from there.
much appreciated