Brake Fluid
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Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: TORONTO
C230 KOMPRESSOR (2003)
Brake Fluid
Today just out of curiousty i poped the hood when i had nothing better to do at work, i just decided to check all the fluids, while i was checking the brake fluid i noticed that it was way below the min level indicated out on the container. And it was golden/yellowish in color..I dont have any message on the screen stating anything abt the Low Brake Fluid...so i just have a couple of questions for u folks..
Is the color alright?
Why wud it be so low...i did recently change the rear pads that were long due ..cud running with the worn pads be a factor..i think.
what shud i do...flush the whole thing..(i wud like not to if i dont have to) or just add some 4dot fluid till it reaches maximum level....and is there some specific way of doin this job??
any help is appreciated from u pros..
thanks
Ammar.
Is the color alright?
Why wud it be so low...i did recently change the rear pads that were long due ..cud running with the worn pads be a factor..i think.
what shud i do...flush the whole thing..(i wud like not to if i dont have to) or just add some 4dot fluid till it reaches maximum level....and is there some specific way of doin this job??
any help is appreciated from u pros..
thanks
Ammar.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 18,677
Likes: 9
From: OC
a quarter mile at a time
the level of brake fluid will go down as your pads and rotors wear. How worn are your front pads? I'm thinking they're worn out and that's why the fluid is low. Some brake fluids are yellow in color.
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Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 125
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From: TORONTO
C230 KOMPRESSOR (2003)
I have had this vehicle for over a year now and i dont know if the previous owner flushed the fluid in the last 2 yrs....thats why i was asking abt the color of the fluid if it wud change color and wud that be some sort of an indication...
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,258
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Getting a flush every 2 years hopefully avoids expensive ABS/ESP component failures.
It's the only service I pay to have someone else do it.
I wouldn't add fluid unless it's very low.
When you change the brake pads you'll have a mess.
Get it flushed.
Fluid is sort of yellow.
Turns brown as it gets old.
Sux getting a used car not knowing whats been done.
I always like to get a baseline, and end up flushing everything, and
replacing stuff like filters (air and fuel) plugs, caps rotors, which of course don't apply here.
It's the only service I pay to have someone else do it.
I wouldn't add fluid unless it's very low.
When you change the brake pads you'll have a mess.
Get it flushed.
Fluid is sort of yellow.
Turns brown as it gets old.
Sux getting a used car not knowing whats been done.
I always like to get a baseline, and end up flushing everything, and
replacing stuff like filters (air and fuel) plugs, caps rotors, which of course don't apply here.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,848
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From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
The important point here is that fluid from the auto parts store, even ATE racing blue or gold will muck up the tiny passages in the ABS system. Only Mercedes supplies the proper viscosity fluid in North America.
As everyone has pointed out, flush every two years. Not because the fluid is dirty, worn out, or has water in it. The mineral oil absorbs copper and becomes ineffective.
Never add fluid under normal driving conditions. The level goes down as the pads wear, and the pistons are extended from their full back position. If you add fluid when the pads are worn you risk severe paint damage when the pistons get pushed back for new pads. The excess brake fluid overfills the tank. It then squirts out the vent hole in the cap, spraying like Mt. Pinatubo all over the engine compartment. The brake fluid takes off the paint in seconds. Please don't ask how I know this.
As everyone has pointed out, flush every two years. Not because the fluid is dirty, worn out, or has water in it. The mineral oil absorbs copper and becomes ineffective.
Never add fluid under normal driving conditions. The level goes down as the pads wear, and the pistons are extended from their full back position. If you add fluid when the pads are worn you risk severe paint damage when the pistons get pushed back for new pads. The excess brake fluid overfills the tank. It then squirts out the vent hole in the cap, spraying like Mt. Pinatubo all over the engine compartment. The brake fluid takes off the paint in seconds. Please don't ask how I know this.
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 118
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From: Casa Grande, Arizona
2005 c230k
I have heard that it is best to open the bleed valve and drain out the old fluid that would have gone up the brake lines rather than push it back up into the resevoir.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
By opening the bleed valve you run the risk of introducing air or contamination into the system. I too have heard of this technique, but I have never read it in manufacturers' service manuals. Not Mercedes, Not Porsche, Not Ford, Not Ferrari, Not Alfred Teves (ATE), Not Brembo, Not Pagid, Not Textar, Not Raybestos, Not Bendix, and Not Lucas/Girling.If that fluid were bad, it would have contaminated the entire circuit, so the system should be flushed, anyhow.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 1
From: TORONTO
C230 KOMPRESSOR (2003)
thanks guys , i am gonna get a flush n fill in about a week. I called the dealership you serviced this car in the past, and he told me that the last time the brake fluid was changed was back in 2005, so i think its abt time now i shud do it. The stealership how ever qouted me $ 150 for the job. I contacted another mechanic locally who works on high end vehicles and he qouted 90 bucks for the job. If this stuff is really sensitive then shud i go to the deakership or can i get it done at a decent mechanic...and what are things that i shud me making sure of..thanks for the input!
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,258
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Stock fluid is DOT4+ which is only sold at Mercedes. ha!
But only one full bottle needed to flush.
I saw a pressure flusher around somewhere for like 45-50 bucks?
But not sure if thats a good idea.
Only needs to be done every 2 years.
Other stuff is easy to do yourself.
I notice a more positive brake feel each time I have it done.
If you go to an indy make sure he's a mercedes guy, and uses DOT4+
Not worth the $60 savings for the trouble it can cause if he cheaps out and uses the wrong stuff.
But only one full bottle needed to flush.
I saw a pressure flusher around somewhere for like 45-50 bucks?
But not sure if thats a good idea.
Only needs to be done every 2 years.
Other stuff is easy to do yourself.
I notice a more positive brake feel each time I have it done.
If you go to an indy make sure he's a mercedes guy, and uses DOT4+
Not worth the $60 savings for the trouble it can cause if he cheaps out and uses the wrong stuff.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 87
From: San Jose, CA
2010 c300
The important point here is that fluid from the auto parts store, even ATE racing blue or gold will muck up the tiny passages in the ABS system. Only Mercedes supplies the proper viscosity fluid in North America.
As everyone has pointed out, flush every two years. Not because the fluid is dirty, worn out, or has water in it. The mineral oil absorbs copper and becomes ineffective.
Never add fluid under normal driving conditions. The level goes down as the pads wear, and the pistons are extended from their full back position. If you add fluid when the pads are worn you risk severe paint damage when the pistons get pushed back for new pads. The excess brake fluid overfills the tank. It then squirts out the vent hole in the cap, spraying like Mt. Pinatubo all over the engine compartment. The brake fluid takes off the paint in seconds. Please don't ask how I know this.
As everyone has pointed out, flush every two years. Not because the fluid is dirty, worn out, or has water in it. The mineral oil absorbs copper and becomes ineffective.
Never add fluid under normal driving conditions. The level goes down as the pads wear, and the pistons are extended from their full back position. If you add fluid when the pads are worn you risk severe paint damage when the pistons get pushed back for new pads. The excess brake fluid overfills the tank. It then squirts out the vent hole in the cap, spraying like Mt. Pinatubo all over the engine compartment. The brake fluid takes off the paint in seconds. Please don't ask how I know this.
You Filipino? There seems to be quite a few on here. I included. Sorry off subject. Carry on....
