C230 Sport Coup's All things AT Transmission related
08-07-2009, 04:21 AM
#76
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I replaced the whole piece with the orings yesterday.
Sux laying on your back.
You have to be careful, for sure you don't want to bend the pins.
I had about 8 oz of fluid drain out, which I saved.
I had the car in as the weld at the Remus muffler came completely undone.
They point out the leaky connector, so it was time to do it.
Be sure to note the orientation of the piece when you pull it, (I didn't)
and also, make sure the old orings aren't inside the hole with the pins.
(Mine got stuck)
and once your sure it's lined up correctly and it's most of the way in,
you'll need to give it a little extra push to seat completely, or you won't be able to
get the screw to tighten up. (7mm)
Sux laying on your back.
You have to be careful, for sure you don't want to bend the pins.
I had about 8 oz of fluid drain out, which I saved.
I had the car in as the weld at the Remus muffler came completely undone.
They point out the leaky connector, so it was time to do it.
Be sure to note the orientation of the piece when you pull it, (I didn't)
and also, make sure the old orings aren't inside the hole with the pins.
(Mine got stuck)
and once your sure it's lined up correctly and it's most of the way in,
you'll need to give it a little extra push to seat completely, or you won't be able to
get the screw to tighten up. (7mm)
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 08-07-2009 at 07:55 PM.
08-07-2009, 05:47 AM
#77
Super Moderator
I have a fixation about that bloody thing. Everytime the car is on a hoist for whatever reason or I'm doing an alignment I check it. So far OK. Of course like you I have a spare so it won't leak. But one day!!!!
08-13-2009, 12:36 AM
#79
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Thread Starter
EDIT: Rusty, if you have a 2007 7 speed auto, there is no dipstick for the tranny and yeh, it has to done with a pump.
----------------------
Putting fluid into the tranny (5 speed) is done via the hole that is for the tranny dipstick,
on the back of the engine.
Not sure what you're referring to, 'pump' wise.
I once used a brake bleeder with some aquarium tubing to get a sample to send out for testing.
After checking the fluid level with the engine running, and hot, I found it to a little low,
I put about 1/2 of the fluid that drianed off back.
After I flushed the tranny it was a tad high, but actually I seems I was within an once or 2, because now I'm right at the bottom of the 80c line on the disptick, so need to pour an ounce or 2 back in.
Funny how something that holds 9 quarts of fluid can be so touchy with the level.
----------------------
Putting fluid into the tranny (5 speed) is done via the hole that is for the tranny dipstick,
on the back of the engine.
Not sure what you're referring to, 'pump' wise.
I once used a brake bleeder with some aquarium tubing to get a sample to send out for testing.
After checking the fluid level with the engine running, and hot, I found it to a little low,
I put about 1/2 of the fluid that drianed off back.
After I flushed the tranny it was a tad high, but actually I seems I was within an once or 2, because now I'm right at the bottom of the 80c line on the disptick, so need to pour an ounce or 2 back in.
Funny how something that holds 9 quarts of fluid can be so touchy with the level.
09-14-2009, 08:45 PM
#80
Senior Member
Just had a quick question for the tranny masters here.
Is it okay to just only get the transmission fluid change or should i be better off doing the entire flush???
I mean its a couple of hundred dollars difference between the two to get them done. I know the flush is the best thing i can do, but can replacing 5 qts of ATF be ok?
Will i feel any difference between a flush or a fluid change?
Is it true that even if i do a fluid change, my transmission still has the probability of failing because i didnt do a full flush?
The ATF in the torque converter has a seperate resovoir than the pan correct? meaning the 5 qts being changed wont be mixed with the other remainning 7 qts? [meaning that the torque converter will be untouched and still be suffering even with a fluid change?]
I need some advice, but at the same time im trying to save as much $$$ as i can through the process. Sorry for the questions.
Thanks in advance
Is it okay to just only get the transmission fluid change or should i be better off doing the entire flush???
I mean its a couple of hundred dollars difference between the two to get them done. I know the flush is the best thing i can do, but can replacing 5 qts of ATF be ok?
Will i feel any difference between a flush or a fluid change?
Is it true that even if i do a fluid change, my transmission still has the probability of failing because i didnt do a full flush?
The ATF in the torque converter has a seperate resovoir than the pan correct? meaning the 5 qts being changed wont be mixed with the other remainning 7 qts? [meaning that the torque converter will be untouched and still be suffering even with a fluid change?]
I need some advice, but at the same time im trying to save as much $$$ as i can through the process. Sorry for the questions.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by holycaoAMG; 09-14-2009 at 08:49 PM.
09-14-2009, 09:19 PM
#81
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Just had a quick question for the tranny masters here.
Is it okay to just only get the transmission fluid change or should i be better off doing the entire flush???
IF IT"S NEVER BEEN DONE DO THE ENTIRE FLUSH- I mean its a couple of hundred dollars difference between the two to get them done. I know the flush is the best thing i can do, but can replacing 5 qts of ATF be ok?
Will i feel any difference between a flush or a fluid change?
Is it true that even if i do a fluid change, my transmission still has the probability of failing because i didnt do a full flush?
The ATF in the torque converter has a seperate resovoir than the pan correct? NO, THEY SHARE THE SAME FLUID. THE NEW FLUID WILL MIX WITH THE OLD, AND YOU MAY OR MAY NOT GET ANY BENEFIT meaning the 5 qts being changed wont be mixed with the other remainning 7 qts? [meaning that the torque converter will be untouched and still be suffering even with a fluid change?]
I need some advice, but at the same time im trying to save as much $$$ as i can through the process. Sorry for the questions.
Thanks in advance
Is it okay to just only get the transmission fluid change or should i be better off doing the entire flush???
IF IT"S NEVER BEEN DONE DO THE ENTIRE FLUSH- I mean its a couple of hundred dollars difference between the two to get them done. I know the flush is the best thing i can do, but can replacing 5 qts of ATF be ok?
Will i feel any difference between a flush or a fluid change?
Is it true that even if i do a fluid change, my transmission still has the probability of failing because i didnt do a full flush?
The ATF in the torque converter has a seperate resovoir than the pan correct? NO, THEY SHARE THE SAME FLUID. THE NEW FLUID WILL MIX WITH THE OLD, AND YOU MAY OR MAY NOT GET ANY BENEFIT meaning the 5 qts being changed wont be mixed with the other remainning 7 qts? [meaning that the torque converter will be untouched and still be suffering even with a fluid change?]
I need some advice, but at the same time im trying to save as much $$$ as i can through the process. Sorry for the questions.
Thanks in advance
Why are you wanting to flush? How many miles do you have?
My car was shifting very badly.
I did the full flush and it cured the problem, FYI.
09-14-2009, 09:30 PM
#82
Senior Member
Thanks so much for the info.
My transmission has been severly jerky. When changing gears from P to D or P to R, it jerks hard and 'tugs' the car hard forward when doing so. I hear the clunk when slowing down changing down from gears 2 to 1. It shifts poorly and i cant stand the jerking and clunking sound, its making me really nervous.
I have 90k miles currently but theres no promise that ill be keeping my car any for another 20k miles or so thats why ive been contemplating about a regular fluid change or a flush. I dont wanna spend $400 and the next owner wouldnt give a damn for it, if you know what i mean.
The werid thing is that when i rev it up to 3k rpm at its shifting point, it shifts really smooth, but anything lower or high than that, i can feel it.
I drive hard with little highway driving
My transmission has been severly jerky. When changing gears from P to D or P to R, it jerks hard and 'tugs' the car hard forward when doing so. I hear the clunk when slowing down changing down from gears 2 to 1. It shifts poorly and i cant stand the jerking and clunking sound, its making me really nervous.
I have 90k miles currently but theres no promise that ill be keeping my car any for another 20k miles or so thats why ive been contemplating about a regular fluid change or a flush. I dont wanna spend $400 and the next owner wouldnt give a damn for it, if you know what i mean.
The werid thing is that when i rev it up to 3k rpm at its shifting point, it shifts really smooth, but anything lower or high than that, i can feel it.
I drive hard with little highway driving
Last edited by holycaoAMG; 09-14-2009 at 09:35 PM.
09-17-2009, 06:25 PM
#83
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Thread Starter
The next owner will notice if it shifts like crap!
Where in Norcal are you?
Where in Norcal are you?
11-19-2009, 09:05 AM
#85
Super Moderator
11-19-2009, 01:20 PM
#87
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11-19-2009, 01:38 PM
#88
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Thread Starter
Hey John, Just noticed your pdfs.
Hmmm....under 50 degrees C.
I have no idea what mine was at, at the time. I know the fluid was very warm when it came out but it didn't burn me.
Too bad, I had it on a lift just the other day (for my free oil change hehe) and didn't look dammit!
Oddly enough, my car isn't included in that campaign, but all 722.6's use the same orings I think.
Hmmm....under 50 degrees C.
I have no idea what mine was at, at the time. I know the fluid was very warm when it came out but it didn't burn me.
Too bad, I had it on a lift just the other day (for my free oil change hehe) and didn't look dammit!
Oddly enough, my car isn't included in that campaign, but all 722.6's use the same orings I think.
Yes.
About six months after its first flush, noticed leakage from the connector during subsequent undercar maintenance.
First ever post here was a DIY ATF renewal. Wasn’t sharp enough to replace those seals concurrently.
Three years later I’m still whoring up the joint dispensing marginal advice.
Wish that was my exhaust system. It’s on hooleyboy’s 450 horsepower supercharged C55.
Those lame seals know no decency.
About six months after its first flush, noticed leakage from the connector during subsequent undercar maintenance.
First ever post here was a DIY ATF renewal. Wasn’t sharp enough to replace those seals concurrently.
Three years later I’m still whoring up the joint dispensing marginal advice.
Wish that was my exhaust system. It’s on hooleyboy’s 450 horsepower supercharged C55.
Those lame seals know no decency.
09-14-2010, 03:43 PM
#89
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Resurrecting an old thread here....
First of all Great DIY C230_Sport_Coup...thanks. I'm sure its going to go a long way in helping me get my tranny fluid changed in the near future. My car is an 02 coupe and just recently turned over 165000km and the tranny has never been flushed eek!
I do however have a few clarifications:
1. In your DIY you said you put in 4 quarts of fluid into the pan before disconnecting the lines to the radiator. Does that mean the torque converter holds 8 quarts of fluid> (Because you said you put in 12 quarts totally). The reason i ask is because Im trying to figure out if it is really worth doing the Torque converter drain or just change some fluid every 10000km to ultimately get almost all new fluid.
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
3. What is the exact length of your dipstick tube? I'm planning to buy one off eBay (I'm cheap
) and am concerned that the aftermarket ones might be a little off in length compared to the OEM one...and considering how sensitive these trannies are to fluid levels....
4. If I do decide to go the route of draining the torque converter as well, can you give me some more info on exactly which line to disconnect and at which end? I have access to a coin up lift, so it shouldn't be too hard to get in there and get it done as long as I know exactly which line to disconnect.
My car has been having some serious cold start issues and hard shifts from gear 1-2 when cold and some random loss of power etc. I'm hoping that doing the flush will take care of all these random issues.
Thanks so much for your help/advice.
First of all Great DIY C230_Sport_Coup...thanks. I'm sure its going to go a long way in helping me get my tranny fluid changed in the near future. My car is an 02 coupe and just recently turned over 165000km and the tranny has never been flushed eek!
I do however have a few clarifications:
1. In your DIY you said you put in 4 quarts of fluid into the pan before disconnecting the lines to the radiator. Does that mean the torque converter holds 8 quarts of fluid> (Because you said you put in 12 quarts totally). The reason i ask is because Im trying to figure out if it is really worth doing the Torque converter drain or just change some fluid every 10000km to ultimately get almost all new fluid.
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
3. What is the exact length of your dipstick tube? I'm planning to buy one off eBay (I'm cheap
) and am concerned that the aftermarket ones might be a little off in length compared to the OEM one...and considering how sensitive these trannies are to fluid levels....4. If I do decide to go the route of draining the torque converter as well, can you give me some more info on exactly which line to disconnect and at which end? I have access to a coin up lift, so it shouldn't be too hard to get in there and get it done as long as I know exactly which line to disconnect.
My car has been having some serious cold start issues and hard shifts from gear 1-2 when cold and some random loss of power etc. I'm hoping that doing the flush will take care of all these random issues.
Thanks so much for your help/advice.
09-20-2010, 07:09 PM
#91
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Thread Starter
See below in red
Resurrecting an old thread here....
First of all Great DIY C230_Sport_Coup...thanks. I'm sure its going to go a long way in helping me get my tranny fluid changed in the near future. My car is an 02 coupe and just recently turned over 165000km and the tranny has never been flushed eek!
I do however have a few clarifications:
1. In your DIY you said you put (dumped and filled yes) in 4 quarts of fluid into the pan before disconnecting the lines to the radiator. Does that mean the torque converter holds 8 quarts of fluid> (Because you said you put in 12 quarts totally). The reason i ask is because Im trying to figure out if it is really worth doing the Torque converter drain or just change some fluid every 10000km to ultimately get almost all new fluid.
A: The MB documentation for the flush, says 13 quarts actually. 12 was needed before it went from black to red.
The difference in the way it ran was night and day, expensive yes, but well I'd say it was worth it to do it right.
You can save a few bucks using the FEBI or FUCHS TITAN ATF 3353 MB appproved fluid, for the 5 speed. rmeuropean.com carries all 3. Did I mention I had paid previously for a "flush" but the dealer only charged me for 4 quarts, assuming they did it all, but assuming they did, it was not adequate. The actual capacity is like 8 or 9 quarts. A few extra is needed to drive all the sludge out.
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
A: Hmmmm....anyone ever heard of this?
My tranny was so bad at 120K clunking, crappy shifts.
Has run like a champ since the flush now 40K miles ago.
Sludge is good? Ha!!! I really think this sounds like Bull.
I'll ask my buddy who owns an indy shop, and he doesn't lie to me.
3. What is the exact length of your dipstick tube? I'm planning to buy one off eBay (I'm cheap) and am concerned that the aftermarket ones might be a little off in length compared to the OEM one...and considering how sensitive these trannies are to fluid levels....
A: Uh, I think you can get the dipstick for 25 bucks on the net, harbor tools perhaps?
They are verrry sensitive to fluid levels.
The difference from the bottom to the top of the
dipstick is like a quart, and it will drive differently even 400ml off.
4. If I do decide to go the route of draining the torque converter as well, can you give me some more info on exactly which line to disconnect and at which end? I have access to a coin up lift, so it shouldn't be too hard to get in there and get it done as long as I know exactly which line to disconnect.
A: I think it's in the MB pdf's I posted otherwise, follow the lines from the rad back.
My car has been having some serious cold start issues and hard shifts from gear 1-2 when cold and some random loss of power etc. I'm hoping that doing the flush will take care of all these random issues.
A: Did for me.
Thanks so much for your help/advice.
First of all Great DIY C230_Sport_Coup...thanks. I'm sure its going to go a long way in helping me get my tranny fluid changed in the near future. My car is an 02 coupe and just recently turned over 165000km and the tranny has never been flushed eek!
I do however have a few clarifications:
1. In your DIY you said you put (dumped and filled yes) in 4 quarts of fluid into the pan before disconnecting the lines to the radiator. Does that mean the torque converter holds 8 quarts of fluid> (Because you said you put in 12 quarts totally). The reason i ask is because Im trying to figure out if it is really worth doing the Torque converter drain or just change some fluid every 10000km to ultimately get almost all new fluid.
A: The MB documentation for the flush, says 13 quarts actually. 12 was needed before it went from black to red.
The difference in the way it ran was night and day, expensive yes, but well I'd say it was worth it to do it right.
You can save a few bucks using the FEBI or FUCHS TITAN ATF 3353 MB appproved fluid, for the 5 speed. rmeuropean.com carries all 3. Did I mention I had paid previously for a "flush" but the dealer only charged me for 4 quarts, assuming they did it all, but assuming they did, it was not adequate. The actual capacity is like 8 or 9 quarts. A few extra is needed to drive all the sludge out.
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
A: Hmmmm....anyone ever heard of this?
My tranny was so bad at 120K clunking, crappy shifts.
Has run like a champ since the flush now 40K miles ago.
Sludge is good? Ha!!! I really think this sounds like Bull.
I'll ask my buddy who owns an indy shop, and he doesn't lie to me.
3. What is the exact length of your dipstick tube? I'm planning to buy one off eBay (I'm cheap
) and am concerned that the aftermarket ones might be a little off in length compared to the OEM one...and considering how sensitive these trannies are to fluid levels....A: Uh, I think you can get the dipstick for 25 bucks on the net, harbor tools perhaps?
They are verrry sensitive to fluid levels.
The difference from the bottom to the top of the
dipstick is like a quart, and it will drive differently even 400ml off.
4. If I do decide to go the route of draining the torque converter as well, can you give me some more info on exactly which line to disconnect and at which end? I have access to a coin up lift, so it shouldn't be too hard to get in there and get it done as long as I know exactly which line to disconnect.
A: I think it's in the MB pdf's I posted otherwise, follow the lines from the rad back.
My car has been having some serious cold start issues and hard shifts from gear 1-2 when cold and some random loss of power etc. I'm hoping that doing the flush will take care of all these random issues.
A: Did for me.
Thanks so much for your help/advice.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 09-20-2010 at 07:14 PM.
09-21-2010, 10:44 PM
#92
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Thanks man.
Yeah I would really appreciate it if you could check with your Indy friend on this:
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
A: Hmmmm....anyone ever heard of this?
My tranny was so bad at 120K clunking, crappy shifts.
Has run like a champ since the flush now 40K miles ago.
Sludge is good? Ha!!! I really think this sounds like Bull.
I'll ask my buddy who owns an indy shop, and he doesn't lie to me.
This is my going to be my next project along with the coolant and diff fluid flush.
Yeah I would really appreciate it if you could check with your Indy friend on this:
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
A: Hmmmm....anyone ever heard of this?
My tranny was so bad at 120K clunking, crappy shifts.
Has run like a champ since the flush now 40K miles ago.
Sludge is good? Ha!!! I really think this sounds like Bull.
I'll ask my buddy who owns an indy shop, and he doesn't lie to me.
This is my going to be my next project along with the coolant and diff fluid flush.
09-22-2010, 08:00 AM
#93
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
#2, your indy is full of sh--. The problem with doing a flush on a neglected transmission is most shops just flush and DON'T replace the filter. All that crappy oxidized fluid, metal, sludge, and other contaminates get flushed through the filter because the new fluid has much more detergency than the old fluid. Then the filter gets plugged, and then the pump either can't supply enough fluid through the transmission, or the pump gives up completely.
If it was me, I would change the fluid and filter, run the car a couple of thousand miles, drop the pan, change the filter again, then flush. Yes, that is a PITA and may be overkill, but worth the effort to preserve as much life of the transmission as possible.
If it was me, I would change the fluid and filter, run the car a couple of thousand miles, drop the pan, change the filter again, then flush. Yes, that is a PITA and may be overkill, but worth the effort to preserve as much life of the transmission as possible.
Thanks man.
Yeah I would really appreciate it if you could check with your Indy friend on this:
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
A: Hmmmm....anyone ever heard of this?
My tranny was so bad at 120K clunking, crappy shifts.
Has run like a champ since the flush now 40K miles ago.
Sludge is good? Ha!!! I really think this sounds like Bull.
I'll ask my buddy who owns an indy shop, and he doesn't lie to me.
This is my going to be my next project along with the coolant and diff fluid flush.
Yeah I would really appreciate it if you could check with your Indy friend on this:
2. My local Indy shop tech was telling me that he has seen cars drive into the shop for a tranny flush, but has to be rolled out because after such a long time of not changing the fluid, the transmission starts to rely on the sludge int he fluid to keep going. So removing all the sludge/particles and replacing it with clear fresh fluid might cause the gears to not engage. Is there any validity to this statement? If so, how do I know if I can change the fluid or not?
A: Hmmmm....anyone ever heard of this?
My tranny was so bad at 120K clunking, crappy shifts.
Has run like a champ since the flush now 40K miles ago.
Sludge is good? Ha!!! I really think this sounds like Bull.
I'll ask my buddy who owns an indy shop, and he doesn't lie to me.
This is my going to be my next project along with the coolant and diff fluid flush.
09-22-2010, 08:33 AM
#94
Super Moderator
+1 John - man there is a lot of crap spoken out there.
The sludge will keep the transmission running
- I don't think so 
The sludge will keep the transmission running
- I don't think so
09-22-2010, 10:34 AM
#95
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Haha...that was exactly my reaction too...but these guys were recommended to me by some local MB owners, so I figured there MIGHT be some validity to this....guess not. They said in order to determine if a tranny fluid flush should be done on my car, the transmission adaptation numbers must be read.
I think Im going to chalk this up to crazy talk and do a flush soon.
I think Im going to chalk this up to crazy talk and do a flush soon.
09-22-2010, 10:37 AM
#96
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
#2, your indy is full of sh--. The problem with doing a flush on a neglected transmission is most shops just flush and DON'T replace the filter. All that crappy oxidized fluid, metal, sludge, and other contaminates get flushed through the filter because the new fluid has much more detergency than the old fluid. Then the filter gets plugged, and then the pump either can't supply enough fluid through the transmission, or the pump gives up completely.
Thanks.
11-16-2010, 08:16 PM
#97
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Considering C230 Sport
Ok, I'm a n00b and an id10t.
I've worked on lots of cars, swapped a motor in a 78 Chevy Malibu, changed oil, coolant, tranny fluid, brakes, etc. on many makes and models. Only done an oil change and brake job on my MB so far. I want to make sure I'm reading correctly. I've seen statements that say that my 2007 C230 sport with the 7 speed auto doesn't have a tranny dipstick? Then, I've seen statements to the effect that it's the yellow handle dipstick between the motor and the firewall. The fluid on that dipstick smells like oil to me. The reason I started poking around to begin with is that my power steering felt like the fluid was low, that slight extra grind or whine when you steer the car at low speed or just after startup. I checked the steering fluid and topped it off but it was only about an eighth of an inch low on the dipstick. That would surprise me if it was the cause. So, I thought maybe the tranny was a little low. I haven't had any leaks.
Anyone?
Thanks,
Jeff
Anyone?
Thanks,
Jeff
11-17-2010, 04:52 AM
#98
Super Moderator
The 722.9 7G transmission has no dipstick tube at all. Level is set by overflow method from beneath. See Johnand's DIY transmission service thread.
These cars are very sensitive to PS fluid level. Low fluid is denoted by air screeching through the pressure relief valves at full lock on either side. Small top ups & deaeration of the system can obviate this.
These cars are very sensitive to PS fluid level. Low fluid is denoted by air screeching through the pressure relief valves at full lock on either side. Small top ups & deaeration of the system can obviate this.
11-17-2010, 08:43 PM
#99
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Considering C230 Sport
The 722.9 7G transmission has no dipstick tube at all. Level is set by overflow method from beneath. See Johnand's DIY transmission service thread.
These cars are very sensitive to PS fluid level. Low fluid is denoted by air screeching through the pressure relief valves at full lock on either side. Small top ups & deaeration of the system can obviate this.
These cars are very sensitive to PS fluid level. Low fluid is denoted by air screeching through the pressure relief valves at full lock on either side. Small top ups & deaeration of the system can obviate this.
Also, what about the transmission? Is it not fillable from under the hood?
Regards,
Jeff
11-18-2010, 05:01 AM
#100
Super Moderator
Yes - deaerate by doing about 5 or 6 turns from lock to lock & then some use. Might need further slight top up after this.
Transmission not fillable from under the hood. See pdf. You might need to fit the redesigned pan & tube if yours is prior to change which is likely.
Pan was redesigned to stop leaks & fluid level raised. Pan uses stretch bolts that require to be replaced. Johnand thread covers his swap out & leak warnings. Surfaces & new gaskets require to be spotless. Benz suggest cleaning with chamois.
Transmission not fillable from under the hood. See pdf. You might need to fit the redesigned pan & tube if yours is prior to change which is likely.
Pan was redesigned to stop leaks & fluid level raised. Pan uses stretch bolts that require to be replaced. Johnand thread covers his swap out & leak warnings. Surfaces & new gaskets require to be spotless. Benz suggest cleaning with chamois.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 11-18-2010 at 05:10 AM.
