C230 Sport Coup's All things AT Transmission related
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Here's a starting point for a rundown of all things to check:
0) Transmission reset sequence
1) have you changed the fluid & filter recently?
2) electrical connector socket leaking .. fluid leeching up the line to TCU
3) valve body conductor plate
4) sticky or worn valve in valve body (Sonnax makes aftermarket parts to fix such issues)
5) faulty solenoid in valve body (watch youtube video on mercedes transmission repair)
6) TCU program update / reset
7) STAR diagnostic may help to identify the problem.
And one possible indirect contributor:
* motor and transmisssion mounts
0) Transmission reset sequence
1) have you changed the fluid & filter recently?
2) electrical connector socket leaking .. fluid leeching up the line to TCU
3) valve body conductor plate
4) sticky or worn valve in valve body (Sonnax makes aftermarket parts to fix such issues)
5) faulty solenoid in valve body (watch youtube video on mercedes transmission repair)
6) TCU program update / reset
7) STAR diagnostic may help to identify the problem.
And one possible indirect contributor:
* motor and transmisssion mounts
Last edited by jkowtko; Feb 2, 2015 at 08:09 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
C240
Transmission Flush *** Report ***
I just did the transmission flush today. Finished early evening and took the car for a drive. Definitely an improvement ... shifts are smoother and it sounds a bit quieter. The car has 101k miles, last service was partial only at 57k. I have some notes:
I just did the transmission flush today. Finished early evening and took the car for a drive. Definitely an improvement ... shifts are smoother and it sounds a bit quieter. The car has 101k miles, last service was partial only at 57k. I have some notes:
- For raising the car, I have a pair of plastic 7" ramps for the front wheels, put a piece of 3/4" plywood in each to give a bit more height. I made a pair of 6" ramps out of plywood for the rears. The nice thing about the 6" ramps is that they will fit under the car between the front and rear wheels, so I can drive all four wheels up on ramps at the same time. This adds a couple more inches of overall room under the car, which makes a huge difference for maneuvering underneath.
- After I pulled the drain plug and let the oil flow die down, I pulled the top cooling line hose from the radiator and blew air into the radiator to push out the old fluid from the radiator tubing and return line back into the transmission so I could drain it out as well. To do this I used a piece of the 1/2" ID tubing I had bought for the flush procedure, held it tight against the radiator fitting hole, and blew. A few strong breaths and I could hear the pipes clearing.
- A note on pulling the cooling line from the radiator: There is about 12" of hard line down from the radiator plug, which is held by three barb-clamps. The two bottom clamps hold the two hard lines (send and return) together ... these were easy to disconnect from the send line that I was pulling. The upper clamp, which is about 5" down from the radiator plug, looks like a simple barb that you push in ... however the clamp part of it pinches the pipe a bit so it takes a bit of muscle to pop it out. Once I realized that there was no obstruction it came out pretty quickly. I did not have to remove any of the engine compartment bracing to do this ... it really wasn't that hard once you knew how it all fit together.
- Another note on the cooling line ... the wire clip that holds the plug in the radiator sits in barbs at the ends. You have to spread the ends of the clip out a bit to slip them over the set of barbs, then the clip slides out about 1/2" so you can pull out the plug. The plug is just pressed in there, mostly held by the o-ring. With a little wiggling it comes right out. And no fluid splash when I did this.
- I bought the Home Depot cement mixing pan to "drop" the tranny pan into, but it turns out I didn't need it. I just removed all the pan bolts and then carefully lowered the pan down and tilted it to pour the remaining oil into my oil catch pan. Didn't really make a mess at all.
- Filter was easy to pull and replace. The old filter had a bit of sediment paste on the bottom, otherwise just looked like dirty oil.
- Magnet did not have much of anything on it. The pan and magnet cleaned up easily. The pan went back on rather easily.
- Next up was the electrical plug insert. Mine wasn't leaking but I figured I should replace it. This took about 5 minutes.
- Up top I connected the 1/2" ID tubing to the cooling send line I had pulled earlier, and used a hose clamp to fasten it. This part was surprisingly simple. I routed the line over the top of the front body bracing and over to my dump bucket on the side of the car.
- I bought a case (12 quarts) of Shell ATF 134 -- 236.14 spec
- 5 quarters were drained initially. So I added 4.5 quarts.
- ran engine, drained 2.5, added 2.5
- ran engine, drained 2 more, added 2
- ran engine, drained 2.5 more, bright red now. Added 2.5.
- total 12 quarts out, 11.5 in
- Put new O-ring on cooling line plug and popped the line back into the radiator and barb clamps.
- I bought the IR thermometer but that didn't work out so well. The highest reading I could get on the pan was 65C. So I figured I would have to do the test drive
- checked fluid level .. at bottom mark for 80C range. Since the car seemed to drive fine, and I don't know if I drove enough to warm the fluid up all the way, I left it there and will check it again sometime after a longer drive. I still have 1/2 quart of fluid left to add if necessary.
- I bought a couple of lock pins, but it looks like the filler cap clicks in place so there is really no need for lock pins. Once I've rechecked the fluid level after a length drive, I'll put a lock pin in and call it done for the next 2 years.
Even without having that fitting - trans cooler line adapter for rad - that Nilknarf talked about or not having an old trans cooler line that can be connected to the bottom of the rad/return to trans, there is no excuse to get this done soon. Thank you very much
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
C240
C240 ATF Flush
Just completed flushing transmission fluid, thanks to the great advice from many on this thread, especially C230 Sport Coup and jkowtko. I incorporated nearly all of the procedures already mentioned with only one minor deviation. Instead of connecting to the transmission supply line that leads to the cooler (top of radiator), I made my connection to the bottom outlet of the radiator.
How? I found a male fitting of the transmission cooler line (and a whole bunch of other stuff) on a C Class 203 in a Pick and Pull junk yard, which I cut about six inches below the metal portion of the line (see photo).
By having this piece of line, I was able to disconnect my trans return line from the rad cooler and then insert the junk yard return line (which had O-ring attached and did not leak) to bottom of rad cooler. I then hooked up a clear 3/8” ID hose via barb to the end of the junk yard line, which led to the fluid collection container to support flushing as described in this thread (see photo).
So, was able to flush the trans rad cooler and supply line and part of the return line. Working on the bottom portion of the rad cooler was a little tight, tighter than up top, but once you figure out how the C-clips work, how easy it is to open, you’ll find it’s a piece of cake. Make sure to push out the return line from middle clamp first (as discussed by jkowtko) before disconnecting.
For anyone wondering how much is in the rad cooler, I collected three ounces of trans fluid when I disconnected the bottom line from the rad cooler.
Like C230 Sport Coup, took 12 quarts to see red; I ended using 13 quarts for pure red.
I also picked up two radiator adapters as discussed by nilknarf’s comments as I had planned to use for connection to the supply line, but ended up, as mentioned, working the return line instead. If anyone wants one forward where to send and pass it on.
Again, thanks to all.
How? I found a male fitting of the transmission cooler line (and a whole bunch of other stuff) on a C Class 203 in a Pick and Pull junk yard, which I cut about six inches below the metal portion of the line (see photo).
By having this piece of line, I was able to disconnect my trans return line from the rad cooler and then insert the junk yard return line (which had O-ring attached and did not leak) to bottom of rad cooler. I then hooked up a clear 3/8” ID hose via barb to the end of the junk yard line, which led to the fluid collection container to support flushing as described in this thread (see photo).
So, was able to flush the trans rad cooler and supply line and part of the return line. Working on the bottom portion of the rad cooler was a little tight, tighter than up top, but once you figure out how the C-clips work, how easy it is to open, you’ll find it’s a piece of cake. Make sure to push out the return line from middle clamp first (as discussed by jkowtko) before disconnecting.
For anyone wondering how much is in the rad cooler, I collected three ounces of trans fluid when I disconnected the bottom line from the rad cooler.
Like C230 Sport Coup, took 12 quarts to see red; I ended using 13 quarts for pure red.
I also picked up two radiator adapters as discussed by nilknarf’s comments as I had planned to use for connection to the supply line, but ended up, as mentioned, working the return line instead. If anyone wants one forward where to send and pass it on.
Again, thanks to all.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,657
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
2005 C230K(sold), Mk7 Jetta
Did this today. Used about 11.5liters for 'full flush'.
At 158k miles now, last service was a drain-n-fill at ~115k.
The "warmed up" level ended up ~1/8in above the lower "80C" mark, so left it there for the time being.
Found "paste sediment" in the pan, and the magnet was also coated with it. Didn't realize I already had a magnet in there, so now rocking two magnets in the pan
The o-ring that I got was a hair too thick and the cooling line did not want to pop into place... had to reuse the old o-ring.
Does anyone know the correct P/N for the o-ring? For 2005 C230. Thanks guys!
At 158k miles now, last service was a drain-n-fill at ~115k.
The "warmed up" level ended up ~1/8in above the lower "80C" mark, so left it there for the time being.
Found "paste sediment" in the pan, and the magnet was also coated with it. Didn't realize I already had a magnet in there, so now rocking two magnets in the pan
The o-ring that I got was a hair too thick and the cooling line did not want to pop into place... had to reuse the old o-ring.
Does anyone know the correct P/N for the o-ring? For 2005 C230. Thanks guys!
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,252
Likes: 168
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
722.6 Trans Service Kit
I found this great kit on ebay that includes a dipstick and all the other bits and pieces.
Just thought I'd share.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...RK%3AMESE%3AIT
Just thought I'd share.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...RK%3AMESE%3AIT
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 118
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
2023 GLK250, 1987 560SL
Hi all,
I was going to check the trans oil, but my ‘05 C240 does not appear to have a dipstick tube. Can anyone confirm this? Maybe I’m looking in the wrong place. My ‘05 E320 does have one, same motor (except for displacement) and same transmission.
Thanks
I was going to check the trans oil, but my ‘05 C240 does not appear to have a dipstick tube. Can anyone confirm this? Maybe I’m looking in the wrong place. My ‘05 E320 does have one, same motor (except for displacement) and same transmission.
Thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
C240
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2024
Posts: 9
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I just Replaced the Slave cylinder on my 6 speed
I bled it , after I drove off using first gear,which is geared to high, anyways I lost 1st , which I don’t care, but I lost 2nd , Reverse and the second day I lost 5th and 6th
three months ago I tried to float my gears bad mistake I heard a thump and it damn near shifted itself into fourth
but never really had problems with the other gears , Reverse sometimes was hard to get into my clutch is good enough to start into 3rd
any suggestions or ideas would be helpful
three months ago I tried to float my gears bad mistake I heard a thump and it damn near shifted itself into fourth
but never really had problems with the other gears , Reverse sometimes was hard to get into my clutch is good enough to start into 3rd
any suggestions or ideas would be helpful
