torquing wheels
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From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
torquing wheels
Question for you guys... or maybe I should head over to the Wheel and Tire forum...
...Anyway,
I now have a set of steelies for winter as well as 16" alloys for summer.
How much should I be torquing them to? Are they different for steelies vs alloys? Is the torque amt specific to teh car or to the rim?
...Anyway,
I now have a set of steelies for winter as well as 16" alloys for summer.
How much should I be torquing them to? Are they different for steelies vs alloys? Is the torque amt specific to teh car or to the rim?
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From: Earth
GLB 250 4matic
i don't know... but i did 80ft-lb anyway.
last year, i just torqued them tightly w/out the use of a torque wrench; so based upon my herculean strength, i'd guess 220ft-lb...
last year, i just torqued them tightly w/out the use of a torque wrench; so based upon my herculean strength, i'd guess 220ft-lb...
Last edited by young; Dec 11, 2002 at 11:56 AM.
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From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
As Mr. Universe said, it says in the manual to torque to 80, with no mention of a different torque for a different set of rims.
Note, though, that you may need different lug bolts for the steelies. I did, and even had to get them machined down a little, as they were a little too long in the rear, JLo-style.
RTFM for what pattern to follow when tightening the bolts (basic star pattern, if you're familiar with that). BTW: the alignment bolt helps a lot when mounting the rims, don't forget to use it.
Note, though, that you may need different lug bolts for the steelies. I did, and even had to get them machined down a little, as they were a little too long in the rear, JLo-style.
RTFM for what pattern to follow when tightening the bolts (basic star pattern, if you're familiar with that). BTW: the alignment bolt helps a lot when mounting the rims, don't forget to use it.
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From: Earth
GLB 250 4matic
Originally posted by tommy
As Mr. Universe said, it says in the manual to torque to 80, with no mention of a different torque for a different set of rims.
Note, though, that you may need different lug bolts for the steelies. I did, and even had to get them machined down a little, as they were a little too long in the rear, JLo-style.
RTFM for what pattern to follow when tightening the bolts (basic star pattern, if you're familiar with that). BTW: the alignment bolt helps a lot when mounting the rims, don't forget to use it.
As Mr. Universe said, it says in the manual to torque to 80, with no mention of a different torque for a different set of rims.
Note, though, that you may need different lug bolts for the steelies. I did, and even had to get them machined down a little, as they were a little too long in the rear, JLo-style.
RTFM for what pattern to follow when tightening the bolts (basic star pattern, if you're familiar with that). BTW: the alignment bolt helps a lot when mounting the rims, don't forget to use it.
--
ok, my friend says that our wheels are hub-centric and that the star pattern isn't as crucial.
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'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Young - it *IS* crucial. Alloy wheels are very fragile, and by not following the star pattern you create uneven tension that can weaken the rim or even make it crack if you overtighten the lugs as well (220 ft*lb - ouch!!). This is also known to cause brake rotor warpage.
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From: Earth
GLB 250 4matic
Originally posted by vadim
Young - it *IS* crucial. Alloy wheels are very fragile, and by not following the star pattern you create uneven tension that can weaken the rim or even make it crack if you overtighten the lugs as well (220 ft*lb - ouch!!). This is also known to cause brake rotor warpage.
Young - it *IS* crucial. Alloy wheels are very fragile, and by not following the star pattern you create uneven tension that can weaken the rim or even make it crack if you overtighten the lugs as well (220 ft*lb - ouch!!). This is also known to cause brake rotor warpage.
but, it is true, that before i had a torque wrench, i just tightened them by feel (actually, been doing that all my car ownership life and never really had a problem - at least, that i was aware of)yes, i will be sure to use the star pattern from now on.
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hmm thanks guys,
btw, i spoke to my service advisor about this and he called the mechanics in the garage, who said torque to 130...
er.. which is different from the 80 said here...
btw, i spoke to my service advisor about this and he called the mechanics in the garage, who said torque to 130...
er.. which is different from the 80 said here...
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From: Southern CA
Torquing the wheels to 130lbs is an excellent way to stretch the bolt, and weaken it's integrity. It's also a great way to keep most people from changing their wheel if they have a flat.
It is crucial when you put your lugs in (and again when torquing them), that you always do the opposite lug. Start with one, then do one from the opposite side, etc, until all 5 are on. If you really want a tight fit, start with the lug on top, rotate the wheel about 180 degrees, and do the lug that is now on top. Repeat this until all 5 are on. Also, torque the wheels while they are in the air.
It is crucial when you put your lugs in (and again when torquing them), that you always do the opposite lug. Start with one, then do one from the opposite side, etc, until all 5 are on. If you really want a tight fit, start with the lug on top, rotate the wheel about 180 degrees, and do the lug that is now on top. Repeat this until all 5 are on. Also, torque the wheels while they are in the air.
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From: Canada
05 CLK 500 cab
The pattern I learned is to start with the one on top and go around in either direction tightening every other nut (or bolt, in our case). It's simple to do and minimises the chance of missing one.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally posted by Mach430
Torquing the wheels to 130lbs is an excellent way to stretch the bolt, and weaken it's integrity. It's also a great way to keep most people from changing their wheel if they have a flat.
It is crucial when you put your lugs in (and again when torquing them), that you always do the opposite lug. Start with one, then do one from the opposite side, etc, until all 5 are on. If you really want a tight fit, start with the lug on top, rotate the wheel about 180 degrees, and do the lug that is now on top. Repeat this until all 5 are on. Also, torque the wheels while they are in the air.
Torquing the wheels to 130lbs is an excellent way to stretch the bolt, and weaken it's integrity. It's also a great way to keep most people from changing their wheel if they have a flat.
It is crucial when you put your lugs in (and again when torquing them), that you always do the opposite lug. Start with one, then do one from the opposite side, etc, until all 5 are on. If you really want a tight fit, start with the lug on top, rotate the wheel about 180 degrees, and do the lug that is now on top. Repeat this until all 5 are on. Also, torque the wheels while they are in the air.
Member
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From: MI
2003 C230K, 6 spd, Brilliant Silver, C-5, C-7, CD changer
Originally posted by vadim
That's metric 130 (Nm), not Imperial (ft*lbs). 130 Nm is equal to 101 ft*lbs, which is still a little too high. The correct torque should be 80 ft*lbs (110 Nm).
That's metric 130 (Nm), not Imperial (ft*lbs). 130 Nm is equal to 101 ft*lbs, which is still a little too high. The correct torque should be 80 ft*lbs (110 Nm).
Just to throw another wrench in the works
Torque values are mostly determined by fastener size and lubrication used, given the size of these lug bolts (and dry installation), 85 to 95 lb-ft are reasonable values.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally posted by oggle
Do you guys all have your own tools or something? I just take my car to the shop.
Do you guys all have your own tools or something? I just take my car to the shop.
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From: MI
2003 C230K, 6 spd, Brilliant Silver, C-5, C-7, CD changer
Originally posted by oggle
Do you guys all have your own tools or something? I just take my car to the shop.
Do you guys all have your own tools or something? I just take my car to the shop.
