We replaced all four of the magnets. It wasn't that difficult a process. Took about 20 minutes. However, it did not fix the loss of power and the CEL came back on giving the codes P0016 & P0017.

We focused on the magnets first after researching this thread.

We really are not sure what to do next. He is guessing about replacing the sensors. As far as I know there is 1 crank sensor and 2 or 4 cam sensors.

I sincerely hope it is not a worn gear. My mechanic seems to think it is not, however I am not sure what he is basing that on.

The magnets and sensors are separate components. If fact we had to take one of the sensors out in order to remove one of the magnets due to limited space.

 

Please go back to my post #239.

You have the worn balancer shaft sprocket issue. Engine must come out of the car. I will post DTB.

 

Here:

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen....30-08i-2-.pdf

 

Sounds serious to me. Looks like my only option will be to give it to the local dealer and of course I am no longer under warranty.

 

Mercedes know that this is a problem with certain VIN's. If your mileage is not too high they might pick up the repair FOC. Now is the time to suck up to your dealer & talk to MBUSA.

 

My mileage is around 91k.

 

That might be a problem but try. Contact MBUSA & be firm but polite. In SA they have a policy of repair FOC & ask no questions. In the US we see an erratic approach to goodwill on this issue.

 

Thank you for your advice. I will get to work on this and let everyone know how it turns out.

 

I've gotten these codes a couple of times. Several camshaft sensors have been replaced and a crank shaft position sensor. This time they specified replacing the magnet. I have a couple questions now.

Car is a 2007 C230 Sport

When the crankshaft position sensor was replaced: I was leaving a stop light under moderate acceleration and the car seemingly applied the brakes..hard. It was like I took my foot of the gas and brake checked the car behind me, which had to slam on his brakes to keep from rear ending me. Then the car "let go" of the brakes and I could accelerate, but VERY slowly. It was running terrible and I could barely gain any speed to get to the next parking lot to pull over. The traction control "!" light flashed and the CEL came on, then the message center displayed something like "ESP inop. Check owner's manual". I'm pretty sure more lights came on because my dash lit up like a christmas tree, but I couldn't catch them all since I was driving and they flashed on, then off quickly. Mercedes walked me through an ECU reset procedure and the car ran fine, but they still towed it in for service under CPO. I don't know if it matters, but I had a flat that day and was running the spare when this happened. They thought that was the problem at first, which sounded odd to me, but eventually found the fault code for the crank shaft position sensor and replaced it. After that, the p0012 code popped up.

The p0012: I believe 2 camshaft position sensors were replaced during the previous owner's time with the car. I had one replaced shortly after buying the car when a CEL came on and I took it in to have them check it out. I'm not sure what code came up that time, they just said it was for the camshaft position sensor. When I started getting worried was when the CEL came on about a week or so after the crank shaft position sensor was replaced. I checked the code and found the p0012. We cleared it and everything seemed fine for a month or so, and then it came back again, with extreme anger. I went out on a cold morning to start my car and it idled incredibly rough, and low on rpms. The red battery light was going on and off and the CEL came on. It was POURING thick white smoke from the exhaust and I just though, "GREAT, a head gasket". I turned the car off, then attempted to restart it...after turning over for about 10 seconds, the same thing happened. I turned the car off, let it sit for a minute, turned the key to the "on" position, let it sit for 20 sec, then begged the car to run and turned the key. It turned over for 10 seconds or so then acted the same, battery light, CEL, incredibly rough idle, and low rpms. I feathered the throttle for about 15 seconds and it suddenly sprung to life and it seemed like nothing was wrong. The white smoke went away, which put my mind to ease about a head gasket, and the car ran great; the CEL even went away after driving a short while. I drove easy for a while then gave it some 3/4 throttle runs and everything seemed fine. I got to O'Reilly's and scanned the car and found p0012. Once I got to the dealer, they investigated and said it was a magnet and replaced it. I've driven the car for 3 or 4 days since then and its been fine.

Any thoughts on the craziness that has gone on?

 

Bump, for any ideas. Thanks.

My car hasn't had any CELs since it came back from the shop. It seems to be getting better MPG too, which I read a few other people noticed as well. AVG'd just under 28 MPG fluctuating between 65-80 MPH on the hwy today. I'm still curious if anyone has heard of a C230 acting the way mine did those couple of times and if there could be a larger problem waiting for me once my CPO warranty is over in a few months.

 

I think the white smoke was steam from a very cold start. You really need to get all 4 magnets replaced. They have been redesigned. This is a magnet problem not a cam sensor one. You have a nice new crank sensor.

Just make sure the car is not using any brake fluid. A damaged booster can cause smoke. Brake fluid getting into the vaccum line.

Is there any chance you had just filled the gas tank? Overfilling can flood the EECS system & dump raw gas into the inlet manifold via the purge system.

 

Thanks, Glyn. I did see where you specified it was a magnet problem several pages back and, armed with your knowledge, specifically asked on the phone if they replaced the magnet on this one. I figured the white smoke, and I mean it was A LOT...it engulfed the rear of my car, was from fuel not burning in the engine since it was running so poorly and getting in the CAT where it eventually burned off and produced the thick smoke. I usually keep an eye on the brake fluid and haven't noticed any usage, but it has been several weeks since I checked, so I will today. I honestly can't remember where my fuel level was, but I do know I wouldn't have filled it up within the last 30 miles of driving; I fill up on my days off of work. I also stop filling at the first *click* of the pump nozzle to keep from over filling, but I do understand that different pumps can shut off at different times and still overfill.

Thanks for your help. Hopefully that was the last of my cars issues, but I will buy all four magnets if I throw another cam sensor code out of warranty and I will replace all of them at the same time. Thanks, again!

 

And the saga continues,I really think MB is hoping this problem will go away as the cars get more mileage on them and time goes by.I changed all four magnets and cel came on right away so had it scaned and sure enough both codes came up so it looks like big bucks for me now.My local MB dealer said they would help me out but they need the service records and since the car is new to me I tried to get them from the selling dealer across town but no such luck as it violates MB privacy laws???? I just want to know if the oil was changed at proper intervals or not??

Randy

 

v8 - are you getting P0016 & P0017? If so it's the balancer shaft sprocket. Engine out!

 

Mercedes told me that same line of BS, Randy. They acted like I was asking for the medical records of a stranger.

But if it is in the VMI then any dealer can pull that.

 

Do you know if this problem exists in the 06 R171 SLK 350?

 

All M272 engines from this era could possibly be effected.

 

I'm not up on the engines or anything else I just take it to the dealer, however it is out of warranty and I don't want to pay the dealer prices for something I could possibly get done elseware. Looking at all of the posts on this it might be possible for me to do it or at least have it done somewhere other than the dealer, what do you suggest? I need help.

 

DIY. It is about the easiest repair you could do on it. Lots of pictures and tips in this thread. Also could take it to any decent indy and they should do it for little cost.

 

Just so we don't have a crossed wire here. The cam magnets are dead easy to replace. If you get a P0016 & P0017 together however it is the worn balancer shaft sprocket & that's a big job.

 

Thanx for the information guys, but I think I will find a machanic to the work, I just don't want to mess anything up!

 

Good point Glyn. Those 2 couldn't be anymore opposite on the difficulty scale

 

Sorry to be pedantic but this thread has ended up covering both conditions. People seem not to read the early parts of the thread where you have covered the magnet issue in total & complete detail. There is frankly no more to say on the magnets!

 

I have the p0025 code that randomly pops up, so I decided to tackle it by replacing all 4 magnets. Even though my problem is on the drivers side I replaced the passenger side magnets with the 2 hours I had free today, because it was easier.

With my limited wrenching skills I didn't find it that easy. There is a bracket in front of the intake magnet that I tried to avoid removing because I didn't have the right extensions. I tired the 1/4" wrench trick mentioned mentioned in this thread, and ended up partially stripping one of the bolts. After that I decided to remove 2 of the 3 bolts and bend the bracket back to allow the socket wrench to get in there, which worked. The car does idle noticably smoother with just the passenger side magnets replaced.

Tomorrow I'm going to get a longer better quality 1/4" wrench, and attempt the driver's side.

After loosening the magnets I kept hearing this high pitched elctronic whirring sound in my engine compartment. Does anybody have any idea what that is? Should the battery disconnected?

 

I would like to clear up a few things first of all thank you very much Glyn for the help you have given on this matter.I have tried all four magnets with no results,after buying a cheap code reader and finding both codes everything started making sence with the slight vibration and the metal colour in the oil.However being a licenced tech I feel very capible of replacing the balance shaft but was confuzed on why the engine needed to be removed.I knew I would need a few tools to this job properly and when I owned my repair shop (retired now) I had alldata software for the guys to use and thought that would do me good here also (25 bucks for a year) as they give a step by step removal and installation procedure and even pictures.I'm not trying to promote alldata just saying this is a good tool.After reading through the procedure and there it was my answer,mercedes has installed a counter weight on the end of the balance shaft (rear)which needs to be removed before the shaft can be pulled out the front of the engine.(engine and trans need to be seperated)They also show a tool which removes a link from the timing chain,valve covers need to be torqued down before tensioner is installed in timing chain slider, etc.I'm still going to do this job and was in our local MB dealer finding out prices for the parts needed only to find out MB has a kit for this job I was told to talk to the service manager.I am going in for them to do thier own diginostic report next week and with all the oil changes recorded (I got them all together fineily)so I have a chance at least for some help on this repair.I have just over 100,000 kms (60,000mi) so I won't hold my breath,wish me luck other wise I'm going to get my hands dirty

Randy