Is there a pulley system available for the C 240 Sedan? I've been hearing that its for the C 230K and the C 320, so i'm guessing that it should also be readily avail. for my car?! how much and what is the recommended kit to get?!

thanks!

 

ummm...
The pulley kits you've read about are overdrive setups for Kompressor (supercharged) engines...
C240's don't have these in stock form.

 

YES, you can get a pulley system for the c240. Evosport sells it for about $400-$500. It is supposed to give 10 to 15 hp by underdriving the accesories.

 

What do you mean by "underdriving the accesories?" Does this put too much strain on the engine?

 

Ben at Evosport can explain this better than I can. But in a nut shell - by "underdriving" the accesories - changing the alternator, water pump, and AC pullies - it allows for more HP to drive the rear wheels. It does not create more HP than what the motor already puts out, but the change in pullies decreases the amount of HP used up to drive the accesories, so that more is available for driving the rear wheels. Hope this makes sense. Maybe you can ask Ben and he can explain this in more detail. Also, you can do a search, since this topic has been discussed before.

 

This is a crazy concept in my opinion, one of the more ridiculous ways to get power. You'd be better off disconnecting the power steering pump and A/C compressor completely...

Underdriving the pulleys (depending on which pulleys are changed) may mean the water pump is under-performing (turning more slowly than it should), the A/C compressor will have trouble keeping up with heat loads on hot days, the alternator will struggle to deal with heavy demands....no, it's nuts, IMO.

I would strip some weight out of the car before I put underdrive pulleys on it. That would be cheaper and more effective. The C Class is a heavy car and weight is the enemy of performance.

 

I have the Underdrive pulley kit, and this is not at all the case. The waterpump, A/C, and alternator do not underperform to any level that can be noticed. For example, im running a farely large amp off of my battery to run my stereo, and the alternator still has no problem keeping the battery charged. Um....yes you could disconnect the power steering pump and A/C compressor completely, but then you wouldnt have power steering and A/C, which would not set you better off at all. I live in the south, it gets up to 100 degrees, and my A/C cools the car ice cold. When i have the A/C up all the way, and i stomp the gas hard, theres no lag in the acceleration, and theres no lag in the A/C.

Its a great concept, as more horsepower is being freed up for the rear wheels while all the systems still perform to exceed what is necessary (my alternator still has MORE than enough power, obviously my power steering is just fine, as my A/C)

 

Sure it would cause those problems, if not designed properly, but we chose to make ours completely reliable while making power. The engine's accessories (power steering pump, alternator, and waterpump) are given much more power from the factory than they need. We simply bring them down to lower levels, without effecting the reliability of the components. We will never change the A/C, as I don't know anyone with a Mercedes or BMW who would buy it.

Stripping down weight would mean you'd have to shave off about 150lbs to net the gains of our pulleys. Where are you going to get that? You can't just throw all your seats out, or you won't have a "Mercedes" anymore. Going with a carbon fiber hood and trunk would get you close, but you are going to be spending a lot more than $499 for that. Engine strain is not affected, as we do not touch the crank pulley. It doesn't get easier than this.

 

Are there any reliable dyno figures for that?

I understand the concept, but its hard to believe that slightly underdriving those items could cause an increase of 10 to 15 hp on a 168 hp engine. That is quite an increase.

I'm not saying its not possible - I don't know. But, I'd like to see reliable dyno results to support it, because those numbers seem optimistic to me.

 

Run a search in this forum, a dyno on Mark Cummins' car was posted. BrabusCClass also mentioned that they were a great help on his C240 (before the SC), and that he could pull away from other C240's with them.

 

I had them on my Z28 and they were worth the 10-12hp that was advertised. I had it dynoed to prove it. They do work.

 

well i got the K23 alloy pulley kit (crank&accessory) for my 2.3L suprchgrd engine from Ben at Evosport (nice ppl BTW). I know advertised hp and torque is about 30/30+ (I assume at crank) and I'm getting dyno this weekend (1 week after install should allow ECU to learn the new found boost). Should I try with 104 unleaded fuel Ben or just stick with 93 oct (I'm still at stage I fuel setting).

 

Stick with how you are going to drive. The dyno should represent your car under normal driving form. If you plan on always driving with 104, go ahead and use it. You can always get another dyno done with 104 vs normal gas for your comparisons, but I think that for this one, you should go with 93.

 

Ben why is there a crankshaft & accesory pulley kit for the 230, which generates considerably more HP than the underdrive pulley kit for the 430, with gains of only 13 HP.

 

The 230 has a supercharger and the pulley on this one overdrives the supercharger, creating more boost and thus more hp. The underdrive pulleys, like for the 430, are used to underdrive the accessories so that less power is taken away from the engine, and more power goes to the wheels.

 

Yep!

 

Ok, I understand that part, but why is it dangerous to put a crankshaft pulley in the 430 and not on the 230?

 

It's not that it is necessarily dangerous, that depends on the engine. But our pulleys were designed to make the power without creating any danger. By not touching the crank pulley, the crank is not affected, and you have a risk-free product. Certain motors, such as BMW 6 cylinders, are at risk if the crank pulley is changed.