W203/CL203 Aftermarket Wheel Thread - All you want to know

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Sep 2, 2011 | 08:30 PM
  #6926  
id get new tires and go for 235/40 all around. or 235/40 and 255/35
Reply 0
Sep 3, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #6927  
Just be careful at the front with ET37 & 235. 235 is the ideal front tyre & gives you adequate clearance from the strut at ET32. At ET37 it could be very close if the tyre you select has a very round sidewall. Maybe a test fit is wise.
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Sep 3, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #6928  
with +37 he might have to use spacers so they can fit around the calipers since he has an SS model. I'd test fit the wheel first before even deciding the tires just to see if they dont rub the caliper.
Reply 0
Sep 3, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #6929  
+1 & a small 5mm+ spacer would solve any tyre touching the strut issues with a 235.
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Sep 3, 2011 | 07:09 PM
  #6930  
yeah, 9" wide and ET37 might be asking for trouble in relation to clearance issues when using 235's, the other side of the coin though is that 225 on 9" are about as narrow as you'd want to go on that width (those 10" works vx's you had are way too wide for 225's ) without risking issues, and still the clearance issues might persist (not to mention the calliper issue voiced earlier) because of the additional rim width ...... for example:

9" = 228.6 mm, which given an ET (positive offset, or in other words an inset) of 37, means that the rim will extend a total of 151.3 mm from the face of the hub back towards the suspension strut

assuming the original wheels were 7.5" (190.5 mm) and ET 36 (these ones) then your looking at 131.25 mm from hub face towards suspension strut.

If my calculations are correct, with the 9" rims on the front, they should extend further out than the 7.5's by 18.05mm

That's a difference of 20.05mm closer to the suspension, before you take into consideration the tyres and any increase in width that you might see from them, although with 225's i doubt you'd see the section width extending past the rims at all, with 235's you'd see some extra width, in theory 6mm extra towards the suspension on top of the figure above, and an additional 4mm further out from the edge of the bodywork.
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Sep 3, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #6931  
thanks for the advice guys and C350 for the calculations

it would totally suck if the wheels still stick out as much as my work vs-xx's. i don't think it will. my old vs-xx's had a really bad face to have a aggressive offset. with a et38 i needed a 15mm spacer to BARELY clear the caliper

it made no sense because when i had these HRE 540r with et 37 offsets.. it cleared the calipers with a good amount without any spacers

ideally i'm looking at 235 + 5mm spacer in the front?
Reply 0
Sep 4, 2011 | 04:01 AM
  #6932  
Quote: thanks for the advice guys and C350 for the calculations

it would totally suck if the wheels still stick out as much as my work vs-xx's. i don't think it will. my old vs-xx's had a really bad face to have a aggressive offset. with a et38 i needed a 15mm spacer to BARELY clear the caliper

it made no sense because when i had these HRE 540r with et 37 offsets.. it cleared the calipers with a good amount without any spacers

ideally i'm looking at 235 + 5mm spacer in the front?
235'3 with 5mm spacers are probably going to be ok, although it will be trial and error, you may find you need 10mm spacers, 5's will give you something like this when compared to the original 17" rims....

21.05mm closer to the suspension
and
27.05mm further out

that's working on the sectional width of the tyres.



so the vx's were ET38 and 10" wide huh, and you used a 15mm spacer
holy crap, no wonder they hung out like big freaking ears !!!

Lets see, ignoring the tyres, because they were too small for the 10" rims anyway, and their sectional width was less than the rims....

10" = 254 mm
ET38 = Inset of 38 mm
15mm spacer gives -15mm

so, 254/2 = 127mm (mid point)
therefore, 127+38-15 = 150mm from hub face to inner face of rim
and
127-38+15= 104mm from hub to outer face of the rim

therefore your new wheels should be 1.3mm closer to the suspension than the VX's yet stick out 26.7mm less (assuming no spacers)



EDIT: because your previous wheel/tyre combination was only 1.3mm different to the new one and assuming no clearance issuses, you might get away with no spacers if you can clear the callipers
Reply 0
Sep 4, 2011 | 01:50 PM
  #6933  
oh. i was talking about the front's for the vs-xx's. it was 18x9 et 38. not sure if it makes a difference. the rears was somewhat fine, it was the front that sticked out a lot
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Sep 4, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #6934  
it all depends on the design of the wheels and how the spokes are made. Plus Works makes so many different disks for each wheel its difficult to choose which one you need. I know that if you choose the high disk I think thats the one its suppose to be able to clear bbk but talking with a Works dealer here it doesnt work for our cars. So it all depends on the face of the wheel and how its designed. Its like my wheels theyre +30 but the fronts rubbed so I had to get 10mm spacers so the back of the spoke wouldn't hit the caliper.
Reply 0
Sep 4, 2011 | 03:58 PM
  #6935  
Indeed, that's why i wanted to ditch the vs-xx's because when i meant the vs-xx had horrible faces i meant they had horrible disks/faces haha
Reply 0
Sep 4, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #6936  
yeah its hard with Work wheels because its more geared toward the japanese cars and the options of disks gets tricky. I'd go with the deep disk on them but I know they wouldnt fit over the calipers.
Reply 0
Sep 4, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #6937  
there are vs-xx that fits over the calipers. you just need to order the correct setup. they are a bit harder to find unless you order them new or you can find them off C55/32.
Reply 0
Sep 4, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #6938  
yeah the best way would probably order a new set so you can have it built the way you want it.
Reply 0
Sep 5, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #6939  
Quote: oh. i was talking about the front's for the vs-xx's. it was 18x9 et 38. not sure if it makes a difference. the rears was somewhat fine, it was the front that sticked out a lot
yup, 18x9 and ET38 will make a mess of the figures i did above regarding the VX's
Reply 0
Sep 6, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #6940  
May have posted previous comment in wrong place..
Hi guys, ive recently bought some 18x10 ET25 rims with 225/40/18 tyres.
Was just wondering what the fitment would be like.. especially on the front.
Cheers.
Reply 0
Sep 6, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #6941  
As posted in the other thread 10" aren't going to fit in front unless you really pull the fenders. There's just not enough room.
Reply 0
Sep 6, 2011 | 01:10 PM
  #6942  
Quote: As posted in the other thread 10" aren't going to fit in front unless you really pull the fenders. There's just not enough room.
Even with the tyres this stretched ?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67217395@N05/6120469591/http://www.flickr.com/photos/67217395@N05/6120469591/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/67217395@N05/, on Flickr
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Sep 6, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #6943  
yes even with the tires stretched the width of the wheel alone will not fit. You're going to be hitting the strut/spring or be getting your tires shredded by the fender. If you go with a negative camber its just going to be hitting the strut even more.
Reply 0
Sep 6, 2011 | 02:10 PM
  #6944  
even with my fronts i'm running 215/45/17 on 17x8.5 +20 and barely fits under the fender. Its pretty close to the fender.
Reply 0
Sep 6, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #6945  
heres how much room I have on the fronts



this is the farthest I can stick my finger in the wheel well
Reply 0
Sep 6, 2011 | 06:07 PM
  #6946  
Listen to phister. And it will increase your scrub radius & tend to make the car tramline. (follow the contours of the road)

Don't stretch tyres - it is an extremely dangerous practice.

Reply 0
Sep 7, 2011 | 05:46 PM
  #6947  
Thanks for baring with me on this! I understand there are negative sides of stretched tyres, it just makes me wonder how drift cars get away with doing those speeds and drifts they do without the negative points happening to them.
What profile tyres can you get away with on the front on an 18" rim? Looks like 40's would be very close!
Reply 0
Sep 7, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #6948  
If a drift car's tyre sidewall fails - what is the worst that can happen? They also run them harder than you can on the road. Running the tyres outside their design parameters is dangerous.

When it comes to profile you need to keep the rolling circumference front to rear within about 2%. Otherwise ESP, BAS etc. will go mad. Use revs per mile tables on the Tirerack site to check this for various sizes.
Reply 0
Sep 11, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #6949  
Soo.. after the recent fail of the wheels i purchased, ive been hunting around and found a set of wheels i like.
I thought i'd ask you guys first due to my lack of MB experience.
They are rotiform BLQ wheels
18", 8" wide and an offset of 45.. Will they fit and if so will i need spacers to make the rim in line with the fender/arch(as we say in England ).
Cheers.
Reply 0
Sep 11, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #6950  
I just bent my 19 inch st4. Should I upgrade to stronger rims or bending is pretty much inevitable with these larger rims? I really don't wanna go back to stock but I don't wanna spend a whole lot for rims if this is gonna happen eventually.
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