C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Suspension and STeering help

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:32 PM
  #26  
TemjinX2's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
See B220-0643 here under front axle:

http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/Mercede...og_2008-sm.pdf
thanks for the link but $264 for the kit, when new control arms and tie rods are around $290 from rmeuropean...argh..

Its kinda not worth it.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
See B220-0643 here under front axle:

http://www.baumtools.com/pdf/Mercede...og_2008-sm.pdf
awesome list of all the tools
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #28  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Originally Posted by TemjinX2
thanks for the link but $264 for the kit, when new control arms and tie rods are around $290 from rmeuropean...argh..

Its kinda not worth it.
Sorry Mike - The reason I posted was to show how easy it is to contrive a rig with washers & bolts. There is nothing to it.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #29  
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hi glyn looks like no 18 in the picture, that price is for two and its not the complete arm thats buying the arm and the bushing and then having to press the bushing in. I got a price for non genuine control arms and the bushing is already in for about 175 for both how do yous feel about non genuine control arms
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 10:21 AM
  #30  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yeah - that's the castor bush. Damn things. I have no problem with non genuine control arms. Most are made by the OE supplier anyway. You guys pay high prices for things. Same here in SA.

I wish there were non genuine bushes available. They might be better than the Benz ones.
Most people now fit the bush from the W204 - supposed to be better.

What is wrong with your arms? Ball joints?

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jul 3, 2010 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #31  
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Sorry Mike - The reason I posted was to show how easy it is to contrive a rig with washers & bolts. There is nothing to it.
no apologies needed my friend. Your posts are always constructive and informative. I really wanted the kit, but its pricing kills it on the ROI aspect.
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:05 AM
  #32  
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just a quick question. I've ordered the arms and should be here mon but is it urgent..... what I mean is seen as the shocks have to come out I was going to hold on a little longer before doing them and lower the car at the same time or will I do more damage
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 12:29 PM
  #33  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Only to Tyres
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 12:39 PM
  #34  
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hey glyn i am getting some play in my front wheel bearing when i wiggle my wheel from the top and bottom. does that mean the bearing is out or can it just be loose? And if its loose how do i tighten it? I opened it up and see the clamp with the hex bolt it. Do i just loosen the hex and turn the clamp? thanks in advance

sorry don't mean to thread jack
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 07:39 PM
  #35  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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Yes - Loosen hex nut - tighten clamp - tighten hex nut again. If play in bearing is not removed the bearings need replacement.

Worn bearings usually make a noise. Check that play is on bearing & not ball joints. Do not over tighten. Wheel must spin freely. Don't get crap in the grease.



Good luck
Attached Thumbnails Suspension and STeering help-front-wheel-bearing.gif  
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:33 PM
  #36  
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cool thanks again
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #37  
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do the bearings need to be pressed in or can i DIY this?
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 07:21 PM
  #38  
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They are pressed - Buy bearings & go to an Indy.
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #39  
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Just an update, so i went ahead and fitted the control arms even though i was gonna wait and fit the springs at the same time figured I'd rather have the car driving the way its meant to and not shaking me to death in the bloody thing. The car drives so much better kinda made me think about how long they were actually shot before I noticed them......... so all good there until yesterday the engine light came on put a computer on it quick and came up with bank1 running rich or something like that erased the fault and went home and cleaned the air flow meter and throttle body light stayed off up until about an hour ago so back to being annoyed that the car is playing up ah well could be worse
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 07:20 AM
  #40  
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Ok so back on to this. My problem isn't fully resolved car still shakes at 120kph and my head is really getting wrecked at this stage so I'm looking for more help. The shake seems to be in the whole car not just the steering... well thats what it feels like. So ant ideas do the bushings on the prop shafts give trouble
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 08:56 AM
  #41  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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I would have the wheels balanced on the car with a finishing balancer.

120 Km/h is a little high for propshaft to show itself but who knows.

Check front & rear flex discs & centre prop bearing for damage. See if there are signs of a balancing weight being thrown off of the propshaft anywhere.



Check the rear subframe bushing & make sure that the pinion nose of the diff is not hanging down it should be horizontal or slightly tipped up.

Check rear gearbox mount - common failure - Benz calls it a rear engine mount BTW for ordering.

Make sure that the centre UJ is not tight.

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 30, 2010 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #42  
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Thanks Glyn I might get the car on the lift before the end of the week and hopefully get it sorted once and for all. I'll post my findings thanks
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #43  
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Rear enging/gearbox mount failure is common. My car had the mount "collapse" and didn't do the vibration thing yours is doing, though, so I doubt that's your issue.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #44  
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i would go with glyn's suggest and get the tires rebalanced. Also check the tire wear, bad control arms could've thrown your alignment off and made the tires wear unevenly.

You can try cross rotating the tires after the balance and see if that helps.
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