DIY - Fuel Filter Replacement
#151
Super Member
Clean gasoline should be as clear as water.
The brown gasoline coming out of the fuel filter is normal,.... it collects the rust from inside the fuel tank and prevent it from going to the engine.
Do NOT regularly use gas with ethanol since that will clear so much rust from inside your fuel tank,... that it`ll start to clog your fuel filter. Hmmm,... it might be a good idea to burn through a tankful of gas with ethanol just before you change your fuel filter!
The brown gasoline coming out of the fuel filter is normal,.... it collects the rust from inside the fuel tank and prevent it from going to the engine.
Do NOT regularly use gas with ethanol since that will clear so much rust from inside your fuel tank,... that it`ll start to clog your fuel filter. Hmmm,... it might be a good idea to burn through a tankful of gas with ethanol just before you change your fuel filter!
#153
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
I always thought the rust came from the underground tanks inside gas stations, not the inside of the car. Our tanks are made of plastic.
Why not just push the Schrader valve like everyone else?
Why not just push the Schrader valve like everyone else?
Last edited by slammer111; 09-09-2023 at 05:43 AM.
#154
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Me: Ducati 848 EVO SS; Wife: Mercedes Benz C200K Kompressor 2004
Anybody actually have a reason to use the schrader valve and rags method as opposed to pulling the fuel pump fuse? Besides the fact that "everybody else" is doing it...
#155
Super Moderator
Best & easiest method is to relieve pressure at the fuel rail Shrader valve. Doing it your way will do no harm.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-24-2013 at 07:45 AM.
#156
Junior Member
Removing the fuse could throw some codes and may cause some vacuum in fuel lines which will need more priming after you're done and throw more codes (I presume).
Excuse my bad English. It's my 3rd language
Last edited by 02C230C Lebanon; 11-04-2013 at 08:49 PM.
#157
MBWorld Fanatic!
First let me commend you on your English! I don't even have a second language!
Second, I don't understand the hesitation about using the schrader valve. That's what it's for. All you're doing is relieving the fuel pressure. Since fluids are incompressible, the pressure drops to nothing pretty much as soon as you open the valve and a few drops come out. I put a rag around the valve and then poke it. It's done in seconds with very little fuel escaping. Don't make this harder or more complicated than it needs to be.
Second, I don't understand the hesitation about using the schrader valve. That's what it's for. All you're doing is relieving the fuel pressure. Since fluids are incompressible, the pressure drops to nothing pretty much as soon as you open the valve and a few drops come out. I put a rag around the valve and then poke it. It's done in seconds with very little fuel escaping. Don't make this harder or more complicated than it needs to be.
#158
Super Member
First let me commend you on your English! I don't even have a second language!
Second, I don't understand the hesitation about using the schrader valve. That's what it's for. All you're doing is relieving the fuel pressure. Since fluids are incompressible, the pressure drops to nothing pretty much as soon as you open the valve and a few drops come out. I put a rag around the valve and then poke it. It's done in seconds with very little fuel escaping. Don't make this harder or more complicated than it needs to be.
Second, I don't understand the hesitation about using the schrader valve. That's what it's for. All you're doing is relieving the fuel pressure. Since fluids are incompressible, the pressure drops to nothing pretty much as soon as you open the valve and a few drops come out. I put a rag around the valve and then poke it. It's done in seconds with very little fuel escaping. Don't make this harder or more complicated than it needs to be.
#159
Junior Member
Well, frankly I didn't know it was a matter of few drops only, but if so, then it makes little of difference on how much fuel will still come out of the lines when the filter is removed. And as I recall, in MB repairs guide they don't even mention that valve.
#160
Super Member
I pulled the fuse and ran the engine ... it ran maybe 10 seconds or so until it stalled. Easy to do. Didn't have to go inside the engine compartment.
After I replaced the filter the car started right up after a few seconds of cranking.
After I replaced the filter the car started right up after a few seconds of cranking.
#161
Junior Member
Photos of OEM filter and Mahle-Knecht replacement filter
Attached are photos of the OEM filter I used last time and replaced it this time with a Mahle-Knecht filter. I forgot to take photos of the new filter, but it was identical to the OEM, minus the Mercedes Benz small logo and the engraved words on the inputs and outputs, and they both have the same model number which you can see on the package of the new one. Even the OEM filter had Knecht logo on!
#162
Hoose clamp size
do you know what size of the clamps we need in order to replace
the fuelfilter?
Mo
#163
Super Member
If you have the original clic-r clamps still on the fuel filter hoses, then you can reuse them if you buy the Clic-R pliers:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Car-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Clic-and-Clic-R-Type-Hand-Tool-/281252533548?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item417bf5152c&vxp=mtr
Otherwise, EPC-net shows -- and somehow the diagram clamp arrangement doesn't look quite right -- two clamps at 13-14.5mm (A006-997-18-90), one clamp at 15.5-17.5mm (A005-997-19-90) and one 10x6mm clamp (A003-997-57-90).
I unfortunately did not know about Clic-R when I replaced my fuel filter, so my hoses got screw clamps from the local auto store all around ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Car-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-Clic-and-Clic-R-Type-Hand-Tool-/281252533548?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item417bf5152c&vxp=mtr
Otherwise, EPC-net shows -- and somehow the diagram clamp arrangement doesn't look quite right -- two clamps at 13-14.5mm (A006-997-18-90), one clamp at 15.5-17.5mm (A005-997-19-90) and one 10x6mm clamp (A003-997-57-90).
I unfortunately did not know about Clic-R when I replaced my fuel filter, so my hoses got screw clamps from the local auto store all around ...
#164
If you have the original clic-r clamps still on the fuel filter hoses, then you can reuse them if you buy the Clic-R pliers:
Universal Car Hose Clamp Pliers Clic and Clic R Type Hand Tool | eBay
Otherwise, EPC-net shows -- and somehow the diagram clamp arrangement doesn't look quite right -- two clamps at 13-14.5mm (A006-997-18-90), one clamp at 15.5-17.5mm (A005-997-19-90) and one 10x6mm clamp (A003-997-57-90).
I unfortunately did not know about Clic-R when I replaced my fuel filter, so my hoses got screw clamps from the local auto store all around ...
Universal Car Hose Clamp Pliers Clic and Clic R Type Hand Tool | eBay
Otherwise, EPC-net shows -- and somehow the diagram clamp arrangement doesn't look quite right -- two clamps at 13-14.5mm (A006-997-18-90), one clamp at 15.5-17.5mm (A005-997-19-90) and one 10x6mm clamp (A003-997-57-90).
I unfortunately did not know about Clic-R when I replaced my fuel filter, so my hoses got screw clamps from the local auto store all around ...
Thanks for the answer.
I have a Mercedes (C270 CDI - 2001 Diesel). Is the fuel filter underneath
or in the engine compartment? How do I find this out?
Mo
#165
Super Member
You can get your own account with free one year subscription to EPC-net, and from there you. Can get any of this info from your VIN number. If you don't have the time or patience to deal with EPC, if you send me your VIN I'll punch it up and send you the diagrams and part numbers. You may also be able to find diagrams on parts.com, but that's a bit hit and miss.
#167
Super Member
Ah ... okay i found a VIN number online for a 2001 C270 CDI, it looks like the fuel filter is in the engine compartment, and one of two options:
for filter #116, hose clamp #92 is part A-997-20-90 ... no size given.
here's a second image showing the install configuration of fuel filter 104:
the only thing that looks like a hose clamp and is near the filter is #360, part A-000-995-60-44, "fuel line on boost air distribution line support" ... but that doesn't look like it mounts on the filter. The other hoses have special fittings on them.
Based on the above photos can you tell us what you have?
for filter #116, hose clamp #92 is part A-997-20-90 ... no size given.
here's a second image showing the install configuration of fuel filter 104:
the only thing that looks like a hose clamp and is near the filter is #360, part A-000-995-60-44, "fuel line on boost air distribution line support" ... but that doesn't look like it mounts on the filter. The other hoses have special fittings on them.
Based on the above photos can you tell us what you have?
#168
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2006 C230 Sport
Been very good for me to read up on what everyone has done here on replacing their fuel filters.
I have never replaced the fuel filter in our 2006 C230 Sport and I'm looking forward to it. With our incomes being significantly reduced over the last year, I've resorted to performing much of our car maintenance. I am savvy with mechanical work....so it's not a big learning curve....but certainly a learning curve working on a vehicle I've not yet done maintenance on.
So, here's where I stand today with my replacing the fuel filter:
I purchased a Mann Filter P/N WK 720 ($34.47), four new Clic-R clamps ($2.90 ea.) and a Clic-R tool ($25).
I'm assuming the Mann Filter is the fuel filter of choice...
I decided to stick with the Clic-R clamps as they were engineered for this vehicle's fuel filter lines. Now, I may be able to reuse the same Clic-R clamps, but I still purchased new ones in case I damage the old ones during removal.
As for the part numbers on the Clic-R clamps, for my 2006 C230 Sport, they are:
- A 006 997 18 90 (13-14.5mm / Qty 3)
- A 000 995 50 10 (10x6mm / Qty 1) This is a new part number from A 003 997 57 90
On the tool, I purchased it through Amazon before I touched base with Intermark USA ( http://www.interkmark-usa.com ). Talked to a lovely lady there. They will sale you, directly, what you need though they mainly work with businesses.
I would also like to point out...if you've not yet signed up for your "free" 12-month subscription to EPC, then I highly recommend it! I'm very glad I did. I actually found that my stealership gave me a wrong part number and was able to call them on the carpet for it with EPC. Should be the same system they use...
Once the Clic-R tool arrives, I expect to get to work on this project as well as replace all four brake pads.
Thank you to all of you who have contributed to this thread!
I have never replaced the fuel filter in our 2006 C230 Sport and I'm looking forward to it. With our incomes being significantly reduced over the last year, I've resorted to performing much of our car maintenance. I am savvy with mechanical work....so it's not a big learning curve....but certainly a learning curve working on a vehicle I've not yet done maintenance on.
So, here's where I stand today with my replacing the fuel filter:
I purchased a Mann Filter P/N WK 720 ($34.47), four new Clic-R clamps ($2.90 ea.) and a Clic-R tool ($25).
I'm assuming the Mann Filter is the fuel filter of choice...
I decided to stick with the Clic-R clamps as they were engineered for this vehicle's fuel filter lines. Now, I may be able to reuse the same Clic-R clamps, but I still purchased new ones in case I damage the old ones during removal.
As for the part numbers on the Clic-R clamps, for my 2006 C230 Sport, they are:
- A 006 997 18 90 (13-14.5mm / Qty 3)
- A 000 995 50 10 (10x6mm / Qty 1) This is a new part number from A 003 997 57 90
On the tool, I purchased it through Amazon before I touched base with Intermark USA ( http://www.interkmark-usa.com ). Talked to a lovely lady there. They will sale you, directly, what you need though they mainly work with businesses.
I would also like to point out...if you've not yet signed up for your "free" 12-month subscription to EPC, then I highly recommend it! I'm very glad I did. I actually found that my stealership gave me a wrong part number and was able to call them on the carpet for it with EPC. Should be the same system they use...
Once the Clic-R tool arrives, I expect to get to work on this project as well as replace all four brake pads.
Thank you to all of you who have contributed to this thread!
Last edited by smoknz28; 04-09-2014 at 11:57 AM.
#171
Super Member
Anyways, 02C230C Lebanon in post 161 is correct. KNECHT MAHLE is OEM supplier of Mercedes Fuel Filter,.... and would be the fuel filter of choice!
Mine is 2003 coupe so, might be different for yours.
For mine:
Mercedes-Benz Part# A002-477-30-01
which is really KNECHT MAHLE KL82
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Benz-FUEL-FILTER-KNECHT-MAHLE-Germany-OEM-/200802334566?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec0c07766&vxp=mtr
#172
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2006 C230 Sport
The Mann *anything*, usually won't be the *anything* of choice! And no, I'm NOT a woman (did I just use a double negative,.. crap!)
Anyways, 02C230C Lebanon in post 161 is correct. KNECHT MAHLE is OEM supplier of Mercedes Fuel Filter,.... and would be the fuel filter of choice!
Mine is 2003 coupe so, might be different for yours.
For mine:
Mercedes-Benz Part# A002-477-30-01
which is really KNECHT MAHLE KL82
Mercedes Benz Fuel Filter Knecht Mahle Germany | eBay
Anyways, 02C230C Lebanon in post 161 is correct. KNECHT MAHLE is OEM supplier of Mercedes Fuel Filter,.... and would be the fuel filter of choice!
Mine is 2003 coupe so, might be different for yours.
For mine:
Mercedes-Benz Part# A002-477-30-01
which is really KNECHT MAHLE KL82
Mercedes Benz Fuel Filter Knecht Mahle Germany | eBay
I purchased this filter through a local parts store and ***-umed they were setting me up with a quality fuel filter. I see that Mann Filter is also made in Germany, which is why I felt comfortable purchasing this filter.
Can someone show me where Mann Fuel Filters are "crap"? I'd like some evidence pointing to this judgement on them.
Again, replacing the fuel filter is new to me with this vehicle.
Thanks.
#173
Super Moderator
Just did mine today actually filter had 113,000 miles on it. Replaced it with proper KL82. I found that the previous shop that did it used a Bosch filter and low quality clamps that were very rusted and were a PIA to get loose enough to get hoses off. I used a pair of need nose pliers to slowly twist and push the hoses off. I used fuel injection hose clamps from advanced auto PN AC52F15v and 16v. I did try to put the fuel filter on backwards because working without a lift is such a pain luckily I caught it after only transferring two hoses over. I lost about 1/8 cup of fuel I would say and I had just driven the car so I figure pressure was still higher then normal but I did vent it at the fuel rail.
As for the Mann filter I usually love them and use Mann oil and air filters but personally would not use anything but the KL82 in this case because many have had issues with the fuel pressure regulator and for the price difference I paid $18.66 for mine I don't think its worth it.
As for the Mann filter I usually love them and use Mann oil and air filters but personally would not use anything but the KL82 in this case because many have had issues with the fuel pressure regulator and for the price difference I paid $18.66 for mine I don't think its worth it.
#174
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Join Date: Nov 2013
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2006 C230 Sport
Just did mine today actually filter had 113,000 miles on it. Replaced it with proper KL82. I found that the previous shop that did it used a Bosch filter and low quality clamps that were very rusted and were a PIA to get loose enough to get hoses off. I used a pair of need nose pliers to slowly twist and push the hoses off. I used fuel injection hose clamps from advanced auto PN AC52F15v and 16v. I did try to put the fuel filter on backwards because working without a lift is such a pain luckily I caught it after only transferring two hoses over. I lost about 1/8 cup of fuel I would say and I had just driven the car so I figure pressure was still higher then normal but I did vent it at the fuel rail.
As for the Mann filter I usually love them and use Mann oil and air filters but personally would not use anything but the KL82 in this case because many have had issues with the fuel pressure regulator and for the price difference I paid $18.66 for mine I don't think its worth it.
As for the Mann filter I usually love them and use Mann oil and air filters but personally would not use anything but the KL82 in this case because many have had issues with the fuel pressure regulator and for the price difference I paid $18.66 for mine I don't think its worth it.
The KL82, is that the Mahle filter? Where did you purchase this filter from?
I'm ***-uming the KL82 would be the same for my 2006 C230 Sport.....??
Thank you.
#175
Super Moderator
All gas w203 I believe use this filter besides the 07 MY as they use in tank filters that you can't replace. Before you order you could always take a look under the car you don't have to take anything off to see if it is outside the tank in the normal location.
I got mine from Amazon Warehouse deals as they are returnable and you can save usually close to 50% or more on many car parts. I have gotten $43 pads for under 20, $18 filter for $10, $80 each rotor for $16.05 each. All the parts are good brands too Mann, Bosch, Akebono, ACDelco. Also since you said you have a kid going to college soon if you don't have amazon prime yet if they have a .edu email yet you get prime discounted for 4 years which makes shipping the parts free! And if they come and are not up to your standards free shipping back! They shipped two sets of front rotors from Nevada to Virginia 2nd day air lol they arrived in destroyed shipping boxes but both sets looked brand new
I got mine from Amazon Warehouse deals as they are returnable and you can save usually close to 50% or more on many car parts. I have gotten $43 pads for under 20, $18 filter for $10, $80 each rotor for $16.05 each. All the parts are good brands too Mann, Bosch, Akebono, ACDelco. Also since you said you have a kid going to college soon if you don't have amazon prime yet if they have a .edu email yet you get prime discounted for 4 years which makes shipping the parts free! And if they come and are not up to your standards free shipping back! They shipped two sets of front rotors from Nevada to Virginia 2nd day air lol they arrived in destroyed shipping boxes but both sets looked brand new
Last edited by samaritrey; 04-09-2014 at 08:28 PM.