Oxygen Sensor Clarifications - (W203 C230 Kompressor)
#26
Super Moderator
I strongly recommend using the genuine Bosch heated O2 sensors. Universal crap in my experience always gives trouble on these cars. You don't have to buy them from a dealer. Buy them from RMeuropean etc.
#27
Thanks!
Well, I think you're right on that. I will go with genuine on this car. I'm going to sell this thing after I fix it. It needs a battery and an oxygen sensor as well as a revamp of the front suspension. All in all, about $600+ bucks if I do it on my own. This car was my wife's but she's no longer here and I've been using it but I'd rather have a toyota truck or something a little less expensive when it comes to repairs! Thanks for the answer. How about the other question? Any advice on that?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#28
Super Moderator
Hello. Can anyone tell me what size wrench or socket to use when removing oxygen sensors on C240's? I read it's 3/8" but then I read it was 22mm. I'm guessing it's the metric but I don't want to buy the wrong size. Anyone? Also, can a oxygen sensor socket fit in there? I tried to use an open wrench today and it barely fit. It got too dark so I'll start again tomorrow and I'd like to get the proper tools. Also, I'm getting a code reading of P0173 and P0175. That's bank 2. Bank 2 is the 'passenger' side, correct? Also, would that be the upstream or downstream sensor? Thanks for anyone who can give me the answers!
P0175 = System too Rich (Bank 2)
Bank 1 = 1, 2, 3 cylinder (fuel door side/passenger side US)
Bank 2 = 4, 5, 6 cylinder (drivers side US)
OBDII/CAN regime dictates that Bank 1 is always the bank that contains Cylinder 1
Your fuel trim is monitored by the upstream sensor. The downstream monitors the effectiveness of the Cat.
It's 22mm
#29
P0173 = Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0175 = System too Rich (Bank 2)
Bank 1 = 1, 2, 3 cylinder (fuel door side/passenger side US)
Bank 2 = 4, 5, 6 cylinder (drivers side US)
OBDII/CAN regime dictates that Bank 1 is always the bank that contains Cylinder 1
Your fuel trim is monitored by the upstream sensor. The downstream monitors the effectiveness of the Cat.
It's 22mm
P0175 = System too Rich (Bank 2)
Bank 1 = 1, 2, 3 cylinder (fuel door side/passenger side US)
Bank 2 = 4, 5, 6 cylinder (drivers side US)
OBDII/CAN regime dictates that Bank 1 is always the bank that contains Cylinder 1
Your fuel trim is monitored by the upstream sensor. The downstream monitors the effectiveness of the Cat.
It's 22mm
#30
I have this socket...
P0173 = Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0175 = System too Rich (Bank 2)
Bank 1 = 1, 2, 3 cylinder (fuel door side/passenger side US)
Bank 2 = 4, 5, 6 cylinder (drivers side US)
OBDII/CAN regime dictates that Bank 1 is always the bank that contains Cylinder 1
Your fuel trim is monitored by the upstream sensor. The downstream monitors the effectiveness of the Cat.
It's 22mm
P0175 = System too Rich (Bank 2)
Bank 1 = 1, 2, 3 cylinder (fuel door side/passenger side US)
Bank 2 = 4, 5, 6 cylinder (drivers side US)
OBDII/CAN regime dictates that Bank 1 is always the bank that contains Cylinder 1
Your fuel trim is monitored by the upstream sensor. The downstream monitors the effectiveness of the Cat.
It's 22mm
#31
Oh yeah, and another thing...
I am going to be replacing the front struts. There are 2 kinds according to sears auto. There is the Monroe Sensa Trac and the KYB Gas Shock. Has anyone had experience changing these out?
#32
Okay, I'm going to remove the exhaust pipe!
Do you recommend removing the exhaust pipe/cats to gain access to the upstream oxygen sensors on my C240? I don't see any other way? Thank you.
#33
Super Moderator
No - use a crows foot spanner with a long or jointed drive or a hammer
#34
Super Moderator
Here is the genuine Benz tool for the M112 engine- Some people find a shifting spanner easier than a rachet, swivel & long drive. You do the upstream from the top & downstream from the bottom. The genuine tool is very similar to the generic that I show above.
The front struts are SACHS-BOGE. The only other brand I have experience with are Koni yellows
The front struts are SACHS-BOGE. The only other brand I have experience with are Koni yellows
#36
#37
One more question on this strut stuff. Tell me if I'm correct in needing the following:
*strut assembly front
*strut bump stop but not necessary
*shock mounting kit
*strut mount
I would think that all of the aforementioned would be included in the assembly. Do I need all of this? Thanks again and that concludes questions...
well, for now.
*strut assembly front
*strut bump stop but not necessary
*shock mounting kit
*strut mount
I would think that all of the aforementioned would be included in the assembly. Do I need all of this? Thanks again and that concludes questions...
well, for now.
#38
Here is the genuine Benz tool for the M112 engine- Some people find a shifting spanner easier than a rachet, swivel & long drive. You do the upstream from the top & downstream from the bottom. The genuine tool is very similar to the generic that I show above.
The front struts are SACHS-BOGE. The only other brand I have experience with are Koni yellows
The front struts are SACHS-BOGE. The only other brand I have experience with are Koni yellows
Last edited by enap66; 12-19-2010 at 07:55 PM.
#39
Super Moderator
Yes - if you can get it to fit & it helps. I have always pulled the upstream sensor on the M112 from above. I have not tried the same on an M272 with the quadcam heads. Access is probably worse on that.
If you are going to sell this car you just need struts for front & any rubbers that look damaged.
If you are going to sell this car you just need struts for front & any rubbers that look damaged.
#40
Yes - if you can get it to fit & it helps. I have always pulled the upstream sensor on the M112 from above. I have not tried the same on an M272 with the quadcam heads. Access is probably worse on that.
If you are going to sell this car you just need struts for front & any rubbers that look damaged.
If you are going to sell this car you just need struts for front & any rubbers that look damaged.
#41
Yes - if you can get it to fit & it helps. I have always pulled the upstream sensor on the M112 from above. I have not tried the same on an M272 with the quadcam heads. Access is probably worse on that.
If you are going to sell this car you just need struts for front & any rubbers that look damaged.
If you are going to sell this car you just need struts for front & any rubbers that look damaged.
#42
Alright folks, after tooling around with trying to get this darn upstream o2 sensor removed for a couple of days, hopefully I can save some of you the trouble with what I've learned. Here are a couple of photos along with some instructions on how to get this thing removed before blowing up the car out of anger or flying to Germany and going postal on some krauts at the benz factory! Okay, you ready? Just follow these instructions and you'll be okay. I promise! First off, you want to get yourself a 22mm offset box wrench. You can by them in a package or individually. If you have a harbor freight in the area, hit them up, you won't be let down! For $12 bucks, I got the set in the first picture. MAKE SURE you purchase the offset wrench, it's the only one I was able to wiggle in there and still have leverage to push on! Okay, next you want to disconnect the o2 connectors. If you follow the actual wire, you'll find that it loops up a bit, about 6 inches (if you're laying underneath the car with the top of your head facing the back of your car and your legs sticking out the front end of the car. we're talking about the upstream o2 sensor, bank 2, which is on the driver's side of the car.) so you're going to want to reach up and dislodge it from the clips it's clipped into the engine with. Got it? Next, you want to pull the wire down so it's dangling next to your head. Then, you want to take this stinkin' pain in the *** bank 2 oxygen sensor wire that is dangling next to your head and feed it through the opening on the 22mm offset wrench. Now, this is important. The wrench is bent a certain way, as are offset wrenches. You need to feed the wire through but make sure you do it correctly. You'll know right away. You need to refer to the next picture as reference. Once it's in, you're able to wiggle the darn wrench onto the little ******* sensor. The bottom of the wrench will be facing the ground, close to your head. At this point, you can roll out from underneath the car and go to the passenger side. Sit down on the passenger side or sit down in front of the passenger side tire and slide your body underneath the car so that your left leg is pushing against the wrench that should be firmly fit over that little no good for nothing sensor. Next, hold on to the tire or the strut assembly or anything that gives you leverage and push with all your might. BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNOCK THE WRENCH OFF EVEN THE SLIGHTEST BEFORE PUTTING PRESSURE ON IT WITH YOUR FOOT! IF YOU DO THIS, YOU'RE APT TO POSSIBLY KNOCKING IT OFF JUST ENOUGH TO STRIP IT- AND THEN YOU'RE REALLY SCREWED! Anyway, that's what does it the easiest. If I'd known this, I'd had been done with the removal of this stupid thing in minutes. I hope this helps! Good luck and if you follow this, you'll be fine. And to those who helped me on this site, thanks- I hope return the favor. If this doesn't work, I suggest buying a lot of gasoline, pouring it on the automobile, get some distance between you and the car and torch it. That was next on my list if this didn't work.
#43
Senior Member
Or you could just follow Glyn's advice and buy a crowsfoot wrench instead. It makes the job easy, though, as he says, you'll need a long drive extension. I bought a set of crowsfoots (crowsfeet??) to work on something Italian and find enough uses for them that I've never regretted having them in different sizes. A crowsfoot is, for example, the best available tool for the dreaded door hinge adjustment task on a Lotus Europa.
#44
Or you could just follow Glyn's advice and buy a crowsfoot wrench instead. It makes the job easy, though, as he says, you'll need a long drive extension. I bought a set of crowsfoots (crowsfeet??) to work on something Italian and find enough uses for them that I've never regretted having them in different sizes. A crowsfoot is, for example, the best available tool for the dreaded door hinge adjustment task on a Lotus Europa.
#45
Super Moderator
I'm delighted you are sorted. I have never had that much trouble. The damn things can seize in quite badly. Note the hammer marks on the Stahlwille crowsfoot.
#46
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2011
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2003 mercedes benz c230 kompressor silver
hi
I am a new bie....any help would be appreciated.
I have the CEL on and it is the pre-cat or upstream O2 sensor. My mechanic gave me a quote for 205$ and dealer for 315$. I found on amazon for 88$ and 102 $ down stream and upstream...
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-16272-Ox...=pd_sim_auto_1
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-16268-Ox...=pd_sim_auto_1
Readin through above someone mentioned the wire is short and connectors wrong... so should i just buy the down stream sensor (i need upstream) and the problem is solved or do i need some modifications on the connectors if i buy down stream sensor..please help me or point to where i can buy the correct one...
thanks in advance
ravi
I am a new bie....any help would be appreciated.
I have the CEL on and it is the pre-cat or upstream O2 sensor. My mechanic gave me a quote for 205$ and dealer for 315$. I found on amazon for 88$ and 102 $ down stream and upstream...
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-16272-Ox...=pd_sim_auto_1
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-16268-Ox...=pd_sim_auto_1
Readin through above someone mentioned the wire is short and connectors wrong... so should i just buy the down stream sensor (i need upstream) and the problem is solved or do i need some modifications on the connectors if i buy down stream sensor..please help me or point to where i can buy the correct one...
thanks in advance
ravi
#47
So what's the answer? Which Bosch part number is for the upstream and downstream sensors? I'm particularly interested in the upstream one since everyone said that the wire was too short. Please respond. Thanks.
#49
Thoughts?
#50
Super Moderator
Personal choice dependent on your toolbox. The dealers do it from the top. I've only ever done it from the top. Some prefer the bottom.