C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

ASP Pulley installed.

Old Jan 17, 2003 | 03:41 AM
  #1  
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W212 E63
ASP Pulley installed.

Just installed an ASP Pulley in my friend's C230K Auto 2 days ago, I think we are the only one who are brave enough to install it at the moment... lol.. Everything went nice and smooth, no impact gun is require to install it in an Auto. There is a place under the transmission where you can lock the car into gear. Installing the pulley into the crankshaft took us a bit of time. Since the hole is a bit tight. we have to sandpaper it to make the pulley go into the crankshaft more easily.

We even pray before we turn on the car, but everything just runs very smooth. The power increase is very noticable, wheel spin thru the 1st gear is very fun. I just waiting for the ECU to learn the new boost then I am going for a Gtech run.

Does anyone know how many days it takes for the ECU to learn the new boost?

My friend have intake and exhaust installed before the pulley, so we are looking to see mid-high 14 in 1/4 mile.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 10:37 AM
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You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for about 20-30 minutes. At that point it adapts fairly quickly, a week should be plenty. Just drive it hard so it adapts to that style of driving.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 10:50 AM
  #3  
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I hate to do this to you but ASP has redesigned their pulley with a complete new stainless steel hub. While your current pulley will probably work forever the new steel hubed pulley is the safest bet as it's way stronger than the alloy hub. They will upgrade the pulley for free but give them a few weeks to gear up for them for quick turnaround. They make aluminum pulleys for other cars using steel hubs and never had a problem.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 10:57 AM
  #4  
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Any word on what the increased pulley weight does to the HP/Torque gains? Is it going to be the same price as the all-alloy pulley?

Thanks...
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 12:02 PM
  #5  
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Eason

Eason, please describe more fully how you locked the auto transmission in gear (under the transmission).

That is a great tip
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 12:43 PM
  #6  
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Re: Eason

Originally posted by rrf
Eason, please describe more fully how you locked the auto transmission in gear (under the transmission).

That is a great tip
I will have to ask my friend for detail, beacuse he was the one that was under the car and this require 2 person to do the job. But as far as I know, we took some of the panels that were covering the tranny off, my friend went under the car and ask me to turn the crankshaft slowly (since it's auto tranny, the crankshaft can spin freely), I keep turning while he was looking at the tranny under the car. Then I turned to a point where he askes me to stop and he said that's the spot to lock. My friend have to stay under the car to lock the tranny while I un-screw the bolt with an LONG torque rench. Putting back onis the same thing, he stays down and I screw back the bolt.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 12:46 PM
  #7  
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Originally posted by Buellwinkle
I hate to do this to you but ASP has redesigned their pulley with a complete new stainless steel hub. While your current pulley will probably work forever the new steel hubed pulley is the safest bet as it's way stronger than the alloy hub. They will upgrade the pulley for free but give them a few weeks to gear up for them for quick turnaround. They make aluminum pulleys for other cars using steel hubs and never had a problem.
SO I will have to call them after a week?? They should have notify me when the send me the pulley. I received the pulley on Jan 14, if they told me earlier, I would have wait for another week or two.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 12:48 PM
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Eason too

That helps, but see if you can get more info about the actual locking mechanism and location. Thanks!
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 12:48 PM
  #9  
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Eason too

That helps, but see if you can get more info about the actual locking mechanism and location. Thanks!
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 12:49 PM
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Originally posted by Clownburner
Any word on what the increased pulley weight does to the HP/Torque gains? Is it going to be the same price as the all-alloy pulley?

Thanks...
The stainless steel hub is rather small and is pressed on and for additional strength has 6 bolts that are flush so that the washers sit over them so there's no chance they can come loose. I'll let you know the weight difference when I get it but I can't imaging it being more than about 1/2 pound difference. I sent in my long term test pulley for analysis and the main design flaw was that the aluminum keyway was getting distorted because the key is short and doesn't run the full length, this was the primary reason for the design change and would apply to all aluminum pulleys. He'll start making them soon and you'll be able to send yours in and it will get retrofitted for the cost of shipping. So while I wouldn't panic and rush, I would remove it over the next 2-3 weeks and ship it back to them. They need that time to machine all the hubs and have them ready for a quicker turnaround. If you send it in now you will have to wait longer, your choice.

I can't wait to get mine back, I need the power. I'm back to my motorcyle for the accelleration rush, I'm glad it started this morning after 3-4 months of going unused.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 01:03 PM
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Does the kleemann pully also have this short key feature?


~fk
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 01:26 PM
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The key is attached to the shaft and aligns the crank to the pulley and keeps the pulley from free spinning on the shaft, it doesn't come all the way to the edge of the shaft so it's supported by very little aluminum, less than a 1/2" so this area should be steel like the factory pulley. Once this area gets damaged it compromises the entire pulley and crankshaft. I won't mention the other brand but any pulley with an alloy keyway would suffer then same faith regardless of the thickness of the outer steel sleeve.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 07:30 PM
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Good news! I should have read this thread first before sending any moronic question on the other thread... anyway, looks like I can install the pulley as well while doing the sway bars tonight. Hopefully it won't leak anymore (I hate the oil drops on the garage floor). And then send it back to ASP several weeks later for the new design. I've been missing the power for months

A reminder to people who's pulley "was" rubbing the water pump pulley: check for dried coolant trace from the WP pulley.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 07:48 PM
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Originally posted by 20FHK02
A reminder to people who's pulley "was" rubbing the water pump pulley: check for dried coolant trace from the WP pulley.
Huh??? Are you saying that your water pump was leaking coolant from the rubbing? My Kleemann pulley was rubbing, but it has worn away the edge so it doesn't rub anymore. Kleemann says this is fine, because it is only a very small part of the belt. Belts on older cars used to be about half as wide, so I'm not worried about it.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 08:33 PM
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Exactly, the rubbing was very slight and wears a stripe on the side of the waterpump pulley, mostly cosmetic. I took my belt off after 8K miles and the belt looks perfect, no signs of excessive rubbing or wear. Of course if you are sending the pulley back and want it machined a hair smaller, let them know.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 08:39 PM
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Originally posted by Buellwinkle
Exactly, the rubbing was very slight and wears a stripe on the side of the waterpump pulley, mostly cosmetic. I took my belt off after 8K miles and the belt looks perfect, no signs of excessive rubbing or wear. Of course if you are sending the pulley back and want it machined a hair smaller, let them know.
I'm surprised to hear you say this Buell. Aren't you the one that asked recently if Kleemann had resolved this rubbing problem? It sounds like it is not necessary to resolve this problem. I am not worried. I'd rather have the larger pulley than no wear on the belt. Although I'm sure you could make it smaller so it doesn't rub and it wouldn't lower the boost much.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 08:50 PM
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It's not a big deal but upset some people, ASP makes each one to order so they'll make it your way like Burger King. Now if McDonalds insists on making it just one way then that's their perogative and your choice. See what happens when you post just before dinner time. I thought about making the pulley larger and then using a larger idler pulley to keep the belt away from the waterpump pulley but that get's into costs and possibly too much boost. I even heard of one forum member asking to have his made about 1/8" smaller because his car ran better with the lower boost.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 08:53 PM
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I don't know why you would spend the money to increase your boost, but not make it much bigger because you prefer less boost. If I preferred less boost, I would just keep it stock. But if I am going to spend my money, I might as well get as much as I can. I would love to get that supercharger replacement from Kleemann, but my car is a lease, and I think that would be wasting money. I don't plan on buying it after my lease.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 09:20 PM
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After 3 days of run-in peroid and finish Service A, my friend and I decided to take the car for a Gtech (I am using the Gtech Competition Pro) run. Just for reference, he have Dynomax UltraFlow muffler and custom Cold Air Intake plus the ASP Pulley. We did 5 runs on the same straight road,each run is about 5 mins apart, and here are the numbers.

0-60mph: 6.325s, 6.254s, 6.135s, 6.110s, 6.145s
1/4mile: 14.656s, 14.642, 14.587s, 14.550s, 14.610s

Some very nice numbers with Auto C230K with minor mods, my friend is very happy about the result.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 09:27 PM
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Those seem like good numbers for an auto. I wonder how much of it is from the intake and exhaust. Because I doubt my car is that fast with a manual and just a pulley. Maybe, but those 0-60 times seem pretty fast. I would be happy with that too.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 11:23 PM
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Originally posted by Buellwinkle
The key is attached to the shaft and aligns the crank to the pulley and keeps the pulley from free spinning on the shaft, it doesn't come all the way to the edge of the shaft so it's supported by very little aluminum, less than a 1/2" so this area should be steel like the factory pulley. Once this area gets damaged it compromises the entire pulley and crankshaft. I won't mention the other brand but any pulley with an alloy keyway would suffer then same faith regardless of the thickness of the outer steel sleeve.
is ASP adding this steel to a new pulley? or are they adding it to your pulley u mail in?
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 11:30 PM
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Originally posted by BlackC230Coupe
is ASP adding this steel to a new pulley? or are they adding it to your pulley u mail in?
Yes, yes. They said in a few weeks as they have to get the right metal stock and start machining them. Since you haven't used your pulley you might as well send it back to them to be retrofitted. I can't wait as I've gotten used to the power. To bad you don't live in So Cal, you can join our tech session and get your pulley installed.

For those that want help with their pulley and can get their car to Chatsworth on February 22nd, this would be a great opportunity get your pulley installed for free. Look for the post on L.A. Tech Session and send Simon an e-mail letting him know you are coming as space is limited. Also they are putting together a group buy on an intercooler made by BEC for $500.
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 11:48 PM
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lee grrrrrrr

My ASP pulley arrived two days ago via UPS all the way to Thailand. Costed US$100 for UPS and tax... now today lee emails me saying that there's been the design change and if I send it back he'll fix up my pulley... GGGGGGRRRRRRRR

Anyways, just had to let that out.

Oh, I'm stuck right now... Thailand doesn not have 6 rib 56" (1425mm), the longest is 1255mm which is much shorter. Could someone recommend an ONLINE shop that carries this belt? Preferably one that ships overseas.

Cheers,

3point
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Old Jan 17, 2003 | 11:48 PM
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Originally posted by Buellwinkle
Yes, yes. They said in a few weeks as they have to get the right metal stock and start machining them. Since you haven't used your pulley you might as well send it back to them to be retrofitted. I can't wait as I've gotten used to the power. To bad you don't live in So Cal, you can join our tech session and get your pulley installed.

For those that want help with their pulley and can get their car to Chatsworth on February 22nd, this would be a great opportunity get your pulley installed for free. Look for the post on L.A. Tech Session and send Simon an e-mail letting him know you are coming as space is limited. Also they are putting together a group buy on an intercooler made by BEC for $500.
i already sent my pulley back to ASP for a refund.

and i wish i did live in socal so i would be able to go to the tech session, or atleast to have all that stuff in florida would be nice.
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Old Jan 18, 2003 | 12:00 AM
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Originally posted by Matt230K
Huh??? Are you saying that your water pump was leaking coolant from the rubbing? My Kleemann pulley was rubbing, but it has worn away the edge so it doesn't rub anymore. Kleemann says this is fine, because it is only a very small part of the belt. Belts on older cars used to be about half as wide, so I'm not worried about it.
Correct. When the pulley was rubbing I saw a green trace of dried coolant from the water pump pulley seal. Then I wiped it off and put back the stock pulley, no trace since. Maybe it was just my car, because apprantely it doesn't like anything else.
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