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Car starting problem..please help..urgent!

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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Car starting problem..please help..urgent!

i have a 2001 c240 and my car is having a weird problem starting...
when i put the key in the ignition, sometimes it wont let me turn the key but after a while it turns but when i go to the position where all the lights turn on, they turn on but then everything shuts off after a second. nothing works i.e. my windows, sunroof, radio, lights, the multi function display...nothingg. sometimes i manage to turn the car on really fast but again...nothing works and even though the car is running fine, my instrument cluster wont work either so i cant tell what my rpm is or how fast im going, or hhow much gas i have left. and again nothing works like the radio and multi function display and etc. Sometimes i get really lucky and i get everything to work but thats like a 1 in a million shot. In the begining, i managed to get everything working and as i was driving everything shut off again...nothing worked and since than i havent been able to get everything working. What do you guys think is the problem?

btw i can unlock and open doors just fine.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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My guess.....battery. Check the cable clamps for cleanliness and tightness. How long has your current battery been in the car? Is it the standard 100 AH battery?
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:42 PM
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Hey Neighbor

I don't know much but definately sounds electric which means it's probably going to cost you a trip to a mechanic. Maybe a CPU??? A dealer will cost you a fortune but I'm sorry to say I don't know of any reputable indi's in the area.

Sorry, I know I'm no help but just wanted to weigh in. You're the only other person from Westchester I've seen on this Board.

Hope you work it out. I'll be following your thread. Good Luck.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
My guess.....battery. Check the cable clamps for cleanliness and tightness. How long has your current battery been in the car? Is it the standard 100 AH battery?
I like this remedy better...

Worse case senario.... Trip to Sears
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
My guess.....battery. Check the cable clamps for cleanliness and tightness. How long has your current battery been in the car? Is it the standard 100 AH battery?
i bought the car used two years ago and i havent changed the battery since and i dont know if it is 100AH battery. How can i check if my battery is dead or not?

Originally Posted by paulybagadonuts
I don't know much but definately sounds electric which means it's probably going to cost you a trip to a mechanic. Maybe a CPU??? A dealer will cost you a fortune but I'm sorry to say I don't know of any reputable indi's in the area.

Sorry, I know I'm no help but just wanted to weigh in. You're the only other person from Westchester I've seen on this Board.

Hope you work it out. I'll be following your thread. Good Luck.
yeaaaaa..i have had other electrical problems before due to water damage. they get quite expensive . I dont know any shops in the area either so i usually go to the dealer. not many people from westchester on this board. where from westchester are you from? glad to see you here though.

Last edited by mbdragon55; Jan 24, 2009 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mbdragon55
... How can i check if my battery is dead or not?
I'm assuming you checked the clamps, and the fluid while you were in there? Usually batteries are replaced because of symptoms like yours but the only real way to know is with a battery checker. The battery is not your normal size battery and I couldn't find a direct replacement from anyone but MB. Many have replaced with lesser batteries with no problems that I've heard of though. When mine starting giving similar symptoms (after 5 years) I called MB Roadside Assistance and they came out and replaced it for just the cost of the battery (expensive though....$190). They didn't bring a battery checker with them.
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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Any Luck??

Originally Posted by mbdragon55
i bought the car used two years ago and i havent changed the battery since and i dont know if it is 100AH battery. How can i check if my battery is dead or not?



yeaaaaa..i have had other electrical problems before due to water damage. they get quite expensive . I dont know any shops in the area either so i usually go to the dealer. not many people from westchester on this board. where from westchester are you from? glad to see you here though.
North Castle. Any Luck??
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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im still having the same problem..im gonna go run down to an autozone and get a battery checker now and i am really hoping thats the problem and nothing much much more expensive. But what im wondering is that my car turns on but everything electrical dosent work. shouldnt the alternator recharge the battery in that case? i dont know much about cars.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mbdragon55
... But what im wondering is that my car turns on but everything electrical dosent work. ...
I didn't understand from your first post that the motor always starts and runs OK. The battery checker is a more complicated than a voltmeter. It places a load on the battery and checks the reserve amps and for any shorts between the plates. That's a strange problem. I don't know enough about the electrical system to say for sure but I believe there are separate power paths for electrical systems and motor and when the battery gets low to a critical point it shuts down everything but the motor.
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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When I go this problem It was my alternator...not saying this is the for sure answer but sharing my experience with you.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Please start by checking the battery - Once that's sorted we can aim you to threads like the EIS etc that would indicate more severe problems. Check the battery first.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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i called roadside and the guy said that he had no idea and to take the car to the dealer. He got the car to start though but the instrument cluster and the radio and everything else were still dead and i drove the car down to the dealer. Now im waiting on them. Lets see what happens....
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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Hey Dragon, I'm afraid to ask...

How'd it go?
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by paulybagadonuts
How'd it go?
they were all booked up today so theyll let me know tomorrow..ill let you guys know as soon as i hear something
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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okkk. so i got a call from the service adviser and he told me that he couldnt find anything wrong with the car and suspects it might be the key. So he is going to order me a new key and see how that works out. If the problem still persists he said hell let me know. The key comes in tomorrow. I didnt ask him to get me the new key, i forgot, stupid me. But do they even make the old key anymore? so what do you guys thunk about their solution to my problem?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mbdragon55
....suspects it might be the key.... so what do you guys thunk about their solution to my problem?
It would have been quicker to try one of the spare keys when it failed than to order another one. I don't know what they did to troubleshoot it but the diagnostics they use and loads of experience are better than our guesses....most of the time. Let us know please.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mbdragon55
okkk. so i got a call from the service adviser and he told me that he couldnt find anything wrong with the car and suspects it might be the key. So he is going to order me a new key and see how that works out. If the problem still persists he said hell let me know. The key comes in tomorrow. I didnt ask him to get me the new key, i forgot, stupid me. But do they even make the old key anymore? so what do you guys thunk about their solution to my problem?
They can code the key to the EIS with a STAR. I hope you are not heading for EIS trouble
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
They can code the key to the EIS with a STAR. ....
My model/year went through many keys before they solved the root problem with the keys. I believe I had four keys 'made' overall. The key coding can't be done by STAR because of security reasons. The keys are ordered pre-coded from a central facility for a specific VIN. I like it that way, less people to worry about being corrupted. Several key problems lately on the board and they all seem to have associated weird electrical problems. I'm inclined to guess towards battery or connection problems rather than the EIS only because of the history of electrical gremlins in our cars.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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The Star can do it all if you know what you are doing. That said, in most markets the key is ordered to suit the cars VIN. If you replace the EIS it requires to be set up with the STAR to recognise that key.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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I found this posted by Richard in 2002....looks like you need a special controlled key to use STAR to program the EIS. These cars are so complicated it makes you wonder how they get all systems to work so well for so long....or in some cases don't

"EIS is the electronic ignition switch, (where U put your key in to start car!) and is part of the driver authorisation system (known as DAS)

Extracts from a manual I have (the 1998 Introduction to Service) :-

The vehicle is released for starting after exchanging confidential encrypted data between the key. the EIS control module, the electronic steering lock (ESL) and the engine controller (ECM).

Local programming of the EIS and ESL is possible with the workshop key from the PDC (** see below)

(PDC = pre-delivery centre, in Europe the local country head quarters seem to do this)

Workshop key - this key serves as a data carrier between the key prorgamming station (at the PDC) and the vehicle. It is shaped like an emergency key, but is GREEN. The workshop key can only be used for single sucessful programming, after that return it to the PDC (where it is reused)

Replacement of complete lock set (keys, EIS, ESL, ECM) is not normally required because all of the parts can be replaced seperately while maintaining the electronic lock number.

Here is the sequence for replacing an EIS
Service employee :- check whether customer is authorised, prepare form, determine vin, obtain EIS, document EIS serial nr, order workshop key by specifiying VIN, bring programmed workshop key to vehicle and insert in new EIS.
Then, version code EIS using Star Diagnosis or Hand held tester, check it works.
Return workshop key to PDC

These are the functions of the EIS
- connection between interior CAN bus and exterior (** see my post about buses in the general forum)
- coded infrared communication with key
- inductive power supply for key
- initial location and retention of key
- locking key in place when key turned
- shift lock in combination with auto-gear stick"
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 02:30 AM
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Yep - that's the system & obviously rigorously adhered to in the US which is good. But like all things computer driven - a competent IT guy can get around it & use the STAR DAS to get everything to talk. Thanks. Nice to see it all in one place.
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