thanks Glyn. I think it didn't throw a code b/c all the electrical tests of the actuator said that it was fine.

I doubt we would have been able to hear it.

well, I'm not sure if this is what they did, but I assume that it was, they removed the snorkel (see my TB DIY) while the car was running and listened to it and watched it.

 

awesome, now this is more like it. the part looks like it's only $72 and if it's easy to replace then woo!

 

two thumbs up for trunk monkey and his TB.

 

Excellent that you and mig888 have finally gotten things squared away!
Swapping the filler neck looks to be an easy enough task, although I’ve never had to do it on mine. Knock wood.

When you’re not too busy with work and OC gal, maybe we can catch up to get one installed.
El Gringo will be on my tab this time ‘round, though.

Incidentally, because of this thread SoCalCLK has asked that I lend a hand with his TB and MAF cleaning.
Perhaps the three of us can terrorize the neighborhood on an otherwise quiet Saturday.

 

that sounds good to me, John! I would definitely be down to do that! thanks so much for finding the instructions.

 

ok, the rough start/idle problem has been solved. the car has started up perfectly and has had great idling since the TB was replaced.

mig888, tried to put my old TB on his car and his car had the same problems. one thing that he noticed was that there was a LOT of oil behind the flap on the TB. splinter and I cleaned it up pretty well without removing the TB, so we didn't see how the back of the flap had that much oil. what could have caused the oil build-up?

as for the CEL, I drove the car 300 miles to Vegas this weekend and the next day while in Vegas, the CEL came on. I cleared the code. I returned from Vegas yesterday. I put about 350 miles since clearing the code and then the CEL came back today.

 

so i cleaned my TB this weekend...and well, besides knowing that's its a bit cleaner than before, i didnt really notice much of a difference in my idling issue. doh!

on a side note...the TB cleaner was telling me to spray for 10 sec and then pausing for 10 sec while the engine was on (this was manually opening and closing the butterfly valve). And it said to finish the entire can!

did u guys actually finish the entire can? Because after repeating it after 5 times it stalled my car. At that point i got scared and called it day. I used maybe quarter of the can.

 

that sucks. sorry to hear that. when the engine was on and the snorkel was off, did you hear any chattering or any strange noises? hopefully your TB didn't suffer the same fate mine did.

actually, we didn't finish the entire can. we just sprayed a little and then cleaned off the rest using some elbow grease and q-tips. we didn't even do the clean with the engine on.

good luck man.

 

Phil that's pretty much par for the course with the leaky filler neck. I drove my car for about two weeks clearing the codes. Each time it was full the light would stay off. When the tank ran low (300-350 miles later) the light would come back. Have you noticed it having anything to do with the fuel level?

 

yeah, it seems like whenever the fuel is at half or below. I know Glyn has said that that's when the tank is the most pressurized, so that's most likely the reason.

pretty annoying, but hey, at least it doesn't affect reliability.

 

thanks...i dont think there is anything wrong with my TB.

maybe i have to replace my cam sensors?

quick question on that...the two metal cylinders in front dont have to be removed right? just the two wires and the black rectangle box (cam sensor?) hooked by the two clips onto the metal cylinders...

im gonna have to re-read that post on cam sensor install...lol

 

well, I might as well post here again.

I need some help. the car is having some more issues.

firstly, during acceleration (especially on an incline), you can here this vibrating whirring squeaking noise coming from the rear of the car. I suspect and hope that it's the propshaft joint that the dealer had previously advised me of.

secondly, during a slow full lock turn to the right, I hear a loud groaning noise. also, during mid-range slow turns, there's a popping noise. I hope that it's not the steering rack.

any thoughts?

thanks in advance.

 

Rear noise is probably a flex joint and/or a rear transmission mount - both easy & cheap changes. For front end check sway bushes & links & castor & camber bushes. Last resort climb under the car while someone lightly turns steering side to side & listen to the rack for popping noise. Johnand & I diagnosed his by PM. He can give you some input.

 

Phil, diagnosing the popping to the rack is REALLY difficult. Glyn and I diagnosed mine through PM, and having me crawl under the car while the wife turned the wheel back and forth. Even my dealer started throwing lots of the common torque strut arms, caster bushings, ball joints and tie-rods at mine until they measured the thrust element play and found it at .013, which is out of spec. From what the shop foreman at my dealer said, is if they don't make noise in the 1st ~50K, they will likely never become an issue. He said they have replaced a handful under warranty, but can't recall replacing any outside of warranty, that weren't in an accident or otherwise abused.

Caster bushings, swaybar endlinks, and tie-rods are really inexpensive compared to the rack ($3200 is what my dealer told me the rack cost.). So I would start with those. I am sending you a PM with my cell phone if you need anymore help diagnosing it.

Good luck.

 

Hey Phil, can't help you with the steering one but I have some input about the other noise. The vibrating, whirring noise under acceleration and especially on inclines is MOST likely a collapsed transmission mount. This happened on my car once under warranty and I'm starting to get the noise again at times now. It's like $28 from RMeuropean.

Good luck on the other noise. Please keep us posted. I'm at 70k on my 2005 and I don't think you're that far ahead of me.

 

Check both Phil - you know you have a suspect flex disc.

 

John, Matt and Glyn, thanks so much for the help!

I will definitely check out those culprits.

Matt, I'm a little ahead of you, I have 83k miles on it.

 

I was just checking RMEuropean for the transmission mount (http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._8582EF73.aspx) and on the section that says "Customers who purchased this item also purchased these items:" the flex disc kit (http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._6BB4EABD.aspx) showed up.

 

Sorry guys, I'm just going to post stuff so I have my notes online, lol.

Are these the swaybar endlinks?
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._2CB14693.aspx

Is this the caster bushing?
Do I need to buy both lower and uppers?
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._8582EF73.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._8582EF73.aspx

Is this the tie-rod bushing?
Do I have to buy the inner and outer?
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._5C1313F8.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._2CB14693.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._2CB14693.aspx

Also, how much labor do you think would be involved in this?

I'm thinking of just buying all the parts and taking it to an indy or enlisting the help of some local members

Thanks again!

 

And another "problem" is that since the last service (now there are 3k miles left for service) the car has asked 3 times for oil (1L).

Each time (except for this third time), I've put in 0.5L and then checked the oil (and it was fine). This third time I put in 0.75L.

I hope the oil consumption is partly due to the new TB and normal.

 

Have you checked the vacuum pump seal on the back of the engine? These have gone bad on a few 2005s on the board. IIRC, you have a very early build 2005? I'm always making mental notes of this to see if I ever see correlations to build dates and common problems among cars of the same model year. Benz seemed to be constantly tinkering and adjusting things. My 2005's build date is 1.25.2005. It has never prompted me for oil. It used .3L in 13,000 miles as of its most recent service (68k). If the vacuum pump seal is bad you should see oil all over the back of the engine. Take a look around.. just tossing ideas out.

Have you noticed the noise from the rear of the car happen more or it be louder when the engine is cold? This was inexplicable to me, but when mine completely collapsed it was always more obnoxious when cold.

Also, I take it you are checking the oil in dyno mode, right? I know my car will tell me "OIL LEVEL OK" even when there are 5.2L instead of 5.5L. The reason I ask is because if you add oil just over the warning threshold, it would make sense that slight oil usage would keep resulting in warnings.

 

no I haven't. but I'm pretty sure there was an oil leak on a seal on the back of the engine about 25k miles ago.

I do have an early build '05. I took delivery of it in August of 2004, so I assume that it's one of the very first batches of 05's.

the noise does happen to be louder when the engine is cold... hopefully it's just the tranny mount. did you do it yourself?

 

My car was under warranty at the time, so no. It's starting to happen again to my car.. I don't have the tools or skills to do it myself, unfortunately. My independent mechanic is going to handle it for me but I don't know what the labor will be. It shouldn't be much, Glyn and Karo assure me the transmission mount is not labor intensive. I don't understand why it is louder when the engine is cold, but that was the case with mine and makes me think even more that it is your issue. You'll be pleased at how much tighter the car feels after that is replaced. It must deteriorate pretty slowly and so you never really notice it driving differently.

 

Respectfully suggest a thorough inspection before throwing any parts at it.
After 80,000+ miles, our chassis is inevitably in need of at least some attention.

Serendipitous timing, Phil.
Rummaging through recent EPC purchase orders..

torque link bushing: 211 333 11 14 (lower)
cross link bushing: 203 333 09 14 (upper)
anti-roll bar link: 203 320 29 89 (12mm, for sport suspension code 486)
anti-roll bar bushing: 203 323 22 85 (22mm, measure bar and validate mounting bracket configuration via VIN before ordering)
LH outer tie-rod end: 203 330 39 03
RH outer tie-rod end: 203 330 40 03
inner tie-rods: 230 338 00 15 (requires two 203 460 23 00 boot/seal kits) note the “230” prefix is not my dyslexia
camber/caster adjustment retrofit bolts: 220 330 01 71 (optional, four required)

Book time for their concurrent R&R is approximately seven hours, as several of the tasks tend to overlap.
Excludes alignment, but we’ve Johnson’s expertise for that anyway.
Only real challenge is pressing the bushings. Local Michelin dealer inexpensively sublet that portion.
Compiling a comprehensive DIY for suspension refurbishment. It’s not quite ready for prime time though.

Eyeballed yet another round of sexy Lemförder hardware under the Christmas tree awaiting installation..

 

How funny - I guess that's no surprise.