Evosport review
12-17-2006, 05:14 AM
#27
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
12-18-2006, 12:34 AM
#30
Last week sum dude in coral gables tried to seel me a brabus pulley kit for just under $6K installed. Like i'm that stupid. It'd be cheaper for me to drive to kalifornia have have Evosport install the pulley kit for me.
And i would bet that Evosport backs up their product, unlike others.
12-18-2006, 01:52 AM
#31
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Stage 2 C7 A6, QX60
You are correct in that assumption,
Last week sum dude in coral gables tried to seel me a brabus pulley kit for just under $6K installed. Like i'm that stupid. It'd be cheaper for me to drive to kalifornia have have Evosport install the pulley kit for me.
And i would bet that Evosport backs up their product, unlike others.
Last week sum dude in coral gables tried to seel me a brabus pulley kit for just under $6K installed. Like i'm that stupid. It'd be cheaper for me to drive to kalifornia have have Evosport install the pulley kit for me.
And i would bet that Evosport backs up their product, unlike others.
that is just ridiculous
06-23-2008, 03:17 PM
#33
Senior Member
That's because its supposed to be professionally installed. Evosport is the one to do this; not really a DIY project... although with you being in Flordia you will need to find a Benz shop that will do it correctly. Make sure they use the belt provided as I've read the OEM belts will get torn up.
I am noticing a nice gain in 0-40 mph acceleration. The car feels like it isn't working at all. When I mash it, it feels great. The fuel economy seems like it will increase a little bit if I am driving for fuel economy. I will track my progress over the course of the next few weeks and post my findings.
06-23-2008, 03:46 PM
#34
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03 c320
I did the install myself over the weekend. It was not hard. Get the pulley puller from Advance Auto's loaner program and follow the instructions for the power steering pulley. Take out the alternator (2 torx bolts) and use an impact 22mm socket drive to get the alternator pulley off and the new one on. The AC pulley needed to be dremeled out b/c the powder coat didn't fit over the factory collar, but I didn't have to take off any metal, just the powder coat. You might need 2 people to get the belt back on. I had a friend pull on it to get over the hump.
I am noticing a nice gain in 0-40 mph acceleration. The car feels like it isn't working at all. When I mash it, it feels great. The fuel economy seems like it will increase a little bit if I am driving for fuel economy. I will track my progress over the course of the next few weeks and post my findings.
I am noticing a nice gain in 0-40 mph acceleration. The car feels like it isn't working at all. When I mash it, it feels great. The fuel economy seems like it will increase a little bit if I am driving for fuel economy. I will track my progress over the course of the next few weeks and post my findings.
06-24-2008, 12:05 AM
#35
Senior Member
I'll give it a shot (I didn't take any pictures, unfortunately):
What you need (I apologize if I leave anything out. I'm doing this from memory):
a. Torx socket set (E14 specifically, but I'm not sure if that's the right one...and if you're doing DIY on a MB, you need to have a torx socket set anyway
)
b. Metric/standard socket set (10mm for AC pulley, 1/2 in for pulley puller)
c. Advance Auto Parts (or similar) PS pulley puller kit
d. 2x4 2-3 feet long
e. Skinny screwdriver with a rag around it
f. dremel tool with sanding bit (maybe)
g. Strong friend
1 - Disconnect the battery (not sure if totally necessary, but since I was taking out the alternator I figured it would be a good idea). Draw a diagram of the pulleys and serpentine belt. Label all of them.
2 - Get the belt off: Pull up on the belt to pull the idler pulley up and to the left (it is spring loaded) to get the belt off. You might need your strong friend.
3 - AC Pulley (easiest): Undo the four screws (10mm socket) on the AC pulley and pull the pulley off. Check the new pulley to make sure it fits in the same place. I had to dremel out the ID because the powder coat was about a hair too thick. I did not remove any metal, just the paint. Screw the new one back in. Don't drop any screws or you'll have to take your underbelly pan of (8mm socket...yeah, I dropped one).
4 - Alternator pulley (medium): Remove the alternator by taking off the two torx bolts (E14, if I remember correctly). You might have to use your 2x4 to wiggle it out. Use a soft clamp or vise to hold the pulley still and an impact socket (22mm) to get the pulley off. Take off the old one and put on the new with the impact. Make it tight. Not sure what the torque spec is. I probably overdid it at 30 ft-lb. Put the alternator back. You will probably need your 2x4 to leverage it back in place. Put the bolts in place first to hold it still before tightening.
5 - Power Steering Pulley (hardest, but not that hard): This is a press-fit. It's a donut that goes over a shaft. Get the loaner tool from Advance. Follow the instructions. Here's what I can remember:
5a - put the universal nubby thing in the end of the allthread. Thread the pulling nut to the end closer to the pulley so when you screw it in, you pull the pulley out.
5b - fit the jaws (2 half-moons) around the collar of the pulley and the pulling nut, then the ring around the jaws (I promise, when you have the tool in your hands, this will make sense...ok 'promise is a strong word...I hope you will understand when you have the tool in your hands).
5c - Use the 1/2 in socket to thread the allthread into the puller nut to pull the pulley off.
5d - Put the new pulley on: Follow the instructions - put the right threaded piece in the end of the pulley shaft, then use the allthread and thrust washer/bearing pair to drive the new pulley on. Put it on hard.
6 - Put the Evosport belt on. Refer to your diagram. Thread it all the way around except for the AC pulley. The Evosport pulley gives a good 'half way' by stretching it to the first tier before fully retentioning the belt. Get your strong friend and the screwdriver with a rag around it. Put the screwdriver under the belt and leverage it over the top of the pulley while you and your friend feed the belt over the pulley and rotate the pulley (like resetting a bike chain, but harder and trying not to squash your fingers).
7 - make sure you're tracking! Watch the pulleys that have the ribbed side up and make sure they are tracking properly. If the belt moves back and forth more than a 1/16th of an inch, you need to check your tightness on your pulleys and make sure you aren't going to wiggle your belt off. Have your friend in the car to kill the engine if there is any sign of trouble.
I hope that helps. I'm doing it from memory, so I apologize deeply if I left anything out and it turns into a problem for anyone. I've checked it over, but details aren't really my strong suit.
What you need (I apologize if I leave anything out. I'm doing this from memory):
a. Torx socket set (E14 specifically, but I'm not sure if that's the right one...and if you're doing DIY on a MB, you need to have a torx socket set anyway
)b. Metric/standard socket set (10mm for AC pulley, 1/2 in for pulley puller)
c. Advance Auto Parts (or similar) PS pulley puller kit
d. 2x4 2-3 feet long
e. Skinny screwdriver with a rag around it
f. dremel tool with sanding bit (maybe)
g. Strong friend
1 - Disconnect the battery (not sure if totally necessary, but since I was taking out the alternator I figured it would be a good idea). Draw a diagram of the pulleys and serpentine belt. Label all of them.
2 - Get the belt off: Pull up on the belt to pull the idler pulley up and to the left (it is spring loaded) to get the belt off. You might need your strong friend.
3 - AC Pulley (easiest): Undo the four screws (10mm socket) on the AC pulley and pull the pulley off. Check the new pulley to make sure it fits in the same place. I had to dremel out the ID because the powder coat was about a hair too thick. I did not remove any metal, just the paint. Screw the new one back in. Don't drop any screws or you'll have to take your underbelly pan of (8mm socket...yeah, I dropped one).
4 - Alternator pulley (medium): Remove the alternator by taking off the two torx bolts (E14, if I remember correctly). You might have to use your 2x4 to wiggle it out. Use a soft clamp or vise to hold the pulley still and an impact socket (22mm) to get the pulley off. Take off the old one and put on the new with the impact. Make it tight. Not sure what the torque spec is. I probably overdid it at 30 ft-lb. Put the alternator back. You will probably need your 2x4 to leverage it back in place. Put the bolts in place first to hold it still before tightening.
5 - Power Steering Pulley (hardest, but not that hard): This is a press-fit. It's a donut that goes over a shaft. Get the loaner tool from Advance. Follow the instructions. Here's what I can remember:
5a - put the universal nubby thing in the end of the allthread. Thread the pulling nut to the end closer to the pulley so when you screw it in, you pull the pulley out.
5b - fit the jaws (2 half-moons) around the collar of the pulley and the pulling nut, then the ring around the jaws (I promise, when you have the tool in your hands, this will make sense...ok 'promise is a strong word...I hope you will understand when you have the tool in your hands).
5c - Use the 1/2 in socket to thread the allthread into the puller nut to pull the pulley off.
5d - Put the new pulley on: Follow the instructions - put the right threaded piece in the end of the pulley shaft, then use the allthread and thrust washer/bearing pair to drive the new pulley on. Put it on hard.
6 - Put the Evosport belt on. Refer to your diagram. Thread it all the way around except for the AC pulley. The Evosport pulley gives a good 'half way' by stretching it to the first tier before fully retentioning the belt. Get your strong friend and the screwdriver with a rag around it. Put the screwdriver under the belt and leverage it over the top of the pulley while you and your friend feed the belt over the pulley and rotate the pulley (like resetting a bike chain, but harder and trying not to squash your fingers).
7 - make sure you're tracking! Watch the pulleys that have the ribbed side up and make sure they are tracking properly. If the belt moves back and forth more than a 1/16th of an inch, you need to check your tightness on your pulleys and make sure you aren't going to wiggle your belt off. Have your friend in the car to kill the engine if there is any sign of trouble.
I hope that helps. I'm doing it from memory, so I apologize deeply if I left anything out and it turns into a problem for anyone. I've checked it over, but details aren't really my strong suit.
