C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Has anyone actually fixed the radio receiver problem: U have to be 2" away to lock/u

Old Jan 24, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #26  
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Wow! this is extremely interesting & I'm going to have to give it some thought. Thanks for reporting back. The EIS inductively powers the key. Both keys will operate in the ignition & handshake with the EIS with no batteries in them at all. The batteries really power the RF side of the key.

This worked & I'm delighted for your sake. Now I have to figure out why it worked.

HellsAngel - give this a try & report back please!
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 05:31 PM
  #27  
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yes - the car does have both keys coded to the EIS separately. With a Star DAS you can cancel one & replace it with a pre coded key from Benz Security for your VIN.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #28  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Sorry - our messages crossed - I think you can figure who I'm talking to.

Note - a dealer cannot code a new key. All they can do is wipe out a lost key. Only Benz Security can provide a new key for your VIN at approx US$200 - varies dependent on stealer.

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 24, 2010 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 02:43 AM
  #29  
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Same thing happened to my w203 when i removed tint. used a steamer to remove really difficult rear tint, however i managed to scrape some defrost lines which work as an antenna if im correct. I personally believe either the hot steam going stright up into the combar/ antenna amp ruined it or the scratched out defrost lines. Either way using my key manually and i have only had luck getting vehicle to open with key 1ft away in the rain only and if pointing at driver door handle.

Bump for INFORMATION HUNTERS
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Old Mar 27, 2010 | 07:36 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Wow! this is extremely interesting & I'm going to have to give it some thought. Thanks for reporting back. The EIS inductively powers the key. Both keys will operate in the ignition & handshake with the EIS with no batteries in them at all. The batteries really power the RF side of the key.

This worked & I'm delighted for your sake. Now I have to figure out why it worked.

HellsAngel - give this a try & report back please!
i dont have a second key
and anyway im not in lebanon (where i drive the c320) so ill report back in may
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #31  
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I just tested this with my spare key and I instantly got double the range, which is still not a lot, but better than a couple of feet.

I do remember a thread stating that the car comes with two kinds of keys and the part that takes out the mechanical key is the designation as to what key it is. I had black and gray top keys.

Definitely try it, it did increase my range, I haven't tried the old key yet, but I'm hoping for similar results.
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Old Mar 28, 2010 | 01:46 AM
  #32  
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THE C350
Originally Posted by loudandheard
I just tested this with my spare key and I instantly got double the range, which is still not a lot, but better than a couple of feet.

I do remember a thread stating that the car comes with two kinds of keys and the part that takes out the mechanical key is the designation as to what key it is. I had black and gray top keys.

Definitely try it, it did increase my range, I haven't tried the old key yet, but I'm hoping for similar results.
the back vs gray are the same thing so range should be the same unless one is damaged or weak battery.
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Old Mar 31, 2010 | 10:40 AM
  #33  
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first time post.. think i can be of some help. when i installed my tint, water got into the radio antenna which is the same receiver for the key.. so it stopped working, took it to a really good mechanic, he removed the radio antenna(2 piece thing) and had it repaired in a couple of hours.. i have no idea what he did to it and hes not even the one that fixed it he just sent it to somebody to fix.. anyway now the receiver works great.. you guys should have seen the water that was in the antenna.. crazy how it got fixed.. btw whose from lebanon ?
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Old Dec 14, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #34  
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2005 C230
BUMP.

This just happened to me a few days ago. RF is GONE, IR still works from a foot away. Coincidentally I'm getting tint this weekend, but do not have any now so it's not the tint.

Anyone have any updates on the fix or exactly how to diagnose the problem? I only have one key btw, but I doubt the whole 2 key thing is really any type of a fix.

Thanks,

Jae
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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 03:40 AM
  #35  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
There are many threads in this regard & they all state the same thing. It's trial & error. You do not have a tint so first thing is to ensure that your key has new batteries for the distance stuff & then most likely points of trouble are sticky pad at center of rear screen under the roof lining & antenna amplifier in the drivers side rear C pillar. Of course the RF side of the key might have failed. Not having a second key is a problem.

Good luck.

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Dec 15, 2010 at 03:43 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:22 PM
  #36  
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09 CLK550
My coupe started out with poor Lock/Unlock and IR door handle reception.
It used to work maybe 50% of the time then eventually 0.

I use the physical key now all the time.
I have 2 keys, the old black style and the new chrome. MB of Devon looked at this a year ago and said to start diagnosing it with a new key first. When that didn't help they suggested a $500 module in the steering column that might fix it. I declined cause it really doesn't bother me that much.
I was outside earlier checking the hatch and I'm not sure what I should be pressing on to see if there is contact with the metal grid in the window.
Windows are tinted but this started way before then. AM/FM radio reception is fine. I have replaced the batteries in the keys multiple times.

Has anyone actually fixed the radio receiver problem: U have to be 2" away to lock/u-dsc01400.jpg
You can see my 2 keys sitting there. The antenna amplifier in my car is w 203 870 23 89

Which parts should I look to replace?
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #37  
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Damn it! Mine started tonight when I left work. All of a sudden my key fob only works via IR and the radio reception is very weak now. Every time I think I have all the kinks ironed out something new pops up. I replaced the batteries with no joy. I am getting very frustrated with this car.
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 06:29 AM
  #38  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Check sticky pad at the top center of the rear screen
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 05:05 PM
  #39  
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Well I did find a solution to my recent loss of radio & key fob connection. I removed & checked all the fuses one by one that were related to the locking system (#8, #9, #21, #22, #32 and #33). I tried it after that and all is well with my Benz world again. It is working without issues for now anyways.

I also stopped by the local MB stealership and order a second key for only $250. What a deal eh? I asked them if they were gonna deliver it to my house for that jokingly, we all laughed. The parts guy walks my paperwork up to the cashiers window where he asks the girl if she would be kind enough to collect a pile of money from me, we laughed again while my wallet silently wept.

I also queried the cost of a transmission dip stick. The guy tells me it is $200! A mechanic standing around says to just get a length of mechanics wire and mark it at 3" stick it in and make sure it was near that mark and I would be good. I also found out that the indie mechanic who rebuilt my transmission is the same guy the dealer uses. I feel a little better knowing that.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 01:35 AM
  #40  
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W203 C240, W208 230CLK
Hi All,
I'm having the same problem with my C240 sedan, both remotes dont work at all, even when pointed at drivers door IR receptacle. Even replaced with new batteries nothing works...cant lock/unlock/open boot.
I ordered an antenna amplifier 2038701389 online from UK but they sent me one bearing part no. 2038200989 [upon checking online, this is replaced by 2038701389] to my doorstep yesterday. It cost me a total of 84 sterling pounds which translates to USD150.
So this afternoon I will be making a trip to my installer to get it fitted and hope that my remote problems will be history! Will post what happens later so wish me all the luck in the world, thanks.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #41  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
The amplifier has been redesigned many times. While they are working in the rear C pillar make them check earth & sticky pad at the top of the rear screen.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #42  
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From: KL Malaysia
W203 C240, W208 230CLK
Glyn, thanks for the tips but what is the purpose of the sticky pad and how do I check it?

I opened the C-pillar and unplugged the existing amplifier and connected the new unit without sticking it into position then tried using the remotes but they still do not work. The earthing is fine, so too the glass heater elements and connecting wires [there were no cuts when they tinted the back screen]. Am at odds end now.....dunno what to do next. Can anyone offer some assistance in troubleshooting this?
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 12:37 AM
  #43  
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W203 C240, W208 230CLK
Well since no comments posted I decided to send one of my remote fobs to a local key electronic ECU/part programming center for diagnosis.
I left the remote with them yesterday and this morning I got a call info-ing me that it may be communicating on the wrong frequency [former W203 owner told me that when he bought car the remotes were already not working, that was in 2008!].
Anyway the center told me that they would adjust to a correct [?] frequency and let me try it out tomorrow. I will let y'all know the outcome of this trial.
Have a good weekend!
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 06:13 AM
  #44  
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
my problem is that the IR intermittently works from outside to raise and lower the windows remotely . Somedays it works great and other days nothing, seems that the drivers side is giving me the problems. Any suggestions? I thought it was the key but if I try on the passenger side it is fine. But if I try the next day on the drivers side it works and then randomly doesn't the next time.

I only use this feature on the hot summer days to let out the heat of the car before I get in
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 06:35 AM
  #45  
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I'd offer the same suggestion that I offer every time here, that no one else it seems wants to do. Get a Mods4cars module, improve the reliability of everything, and get an easier-to-use system at the same time. I've had mine in my car for about 5 years now without issue; it's a great feature in summertime. And with the price of OEM replacement parts these days, it's a reasonable cost now.

http://www.mods4cars.com/sms/shop/in...ode=view&id=51
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 09:50 AM
  #46  
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
Originally Posted by tommy
I'd offer the same suggestion that I offer every time here, that no one else it seems wants to do. Get a Mods4cars module, improve the reliability of everything, and get an easier-to-use system at the same time. I've had mine in my car for about 5 years now without issue; it's a great feature in summertime. And with the price of OEM replacement parts these days, it's a reasonable cost now.

http://www.mods4cars.com/sms/shop/in...ode=view&id=51
just wondering what this does that my current system already offers other than chirp when you lock?

their features vs what is built in to my car:
-Auto door locks Y
-Remote window control Y
-Home light for 30 sec Y
-Chirp signal N

Last edited by Boom vang; Jul 9, 2011 at 09:52 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Boom vang
just wondering what this does that my current system already offers other than chirp when you lock?

their features vs what is built in to my car:
-Auto door locks Y
-Remote window control Y
-Home light for 30 sec Y
-Chirp signal N
It is done on RF, which totally eliminates the IR problem, has much more range, and is more consistent.

Also, remote window AND sunroof control without having to hold the button. So you don't look like an idiot pointing your key at the car for 5 minutes while trying to get your windows open.

Devil's in the details; just read the functions at their site.
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #48  
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From: KL Malaysia
W203 C240, W208 230CLK
Well....here's the results after re-programming the frequency - negative!
Still nothing works, the doors don't lock/unlock/boot does not open.
Went all around the car, N/E/S/W, pressing the lock button hoping for
a response or even a siren beep....zilch!

Back to the drawing board while hoping that someone out there
can offer a solution.
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Old Jul 11, 2011 | 11:50 PM
  #49  
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From: KL Malaysia
W203 C240, W208 230CLK
Well the solution, or rather rectification, came to me after a couple of Hoeggies....why not fit a separate alarm unit that will control [remote-wise] the central locking and hopefully activate the engine immobiliser as well?

Dunno if any of you here have tried doing this....

Will be driving to the city to my regular trusty installer to get this procedure done today around 12 something....and the results will be reported here after.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:20 AM
  #50  
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From: KL Malaysia
W203 C240, W208 230CLK
OK, now the new alarm system is fitted and it is
a Clifford unit. The new remotes work wonderfully
to lock/unlock doors plus a valet mode. Only setback
is that I have to carry 2 remotes for the C240. I opted
not to activate the auto-arm feature.

Saved over USD200 by not getting a piggyback canbus unit
which uses a few wires to connect to the system. The installer
chose to hardwire the alarm into the MB system [it took
the guys nearly 6 hours for this procedure; dismantling,
splicing, soldering, taping and reassembly].

Also discovered that there's 2 activated carbon filters
for the interior aircon blower hidden just below the
glovebox - they looked as if they were there for over
5 years so I bought a new set for USD110 from a parts shop
nearby. On the drive back the aircon felt much'mo cooler and
without any stale odor evident.

Now that the burden/woe has been lifted....
Come rain or shine, tonight I can sleep easy.
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