Nicholi2007

Coil Packs: Replaced another coil pack, put some Lucas injector in the tank and the car is accelerating more smoothly. The vibration is still there. It seems more pronounced on other days.

All of the tabs have broken off on the coil connectors but seem snug;just no snap in place. I guess the age of the car is catching up with me.

Going to replace the rest of the coil packs this week as she has almost 90,000 miles.

Steve is coming to put bi-exenon headlights in and clear mirrors on:.

To do:
1. Cam cover gaskets & sealing the crankcase ventilation cover
2. C32 AMG airbox upgrade
3. Evosport pulley
4. Reupholster driver seat
5. Door seals on the whole car

laneshift

I had the same issue as you, so a word of advice:

Oil may spray and be flung around. Be careful, as I've seen it under my air box and dangerously close to my MAF sensor.

Also, clean your MAF sensor. It should smoothen things out.

These cars seem like they require everything done at once. I couldn't do just a few wires or a few coil packs because others would fail on me, etc etc. It's way expensive, though, to be swappin' out 12 plugs/wires and 6 coil packs.

Nicholi2007

I now have 95,000 miles + on the car and seems like its becoming a maintenance hog.

1. Transmission mount replaced.

The vibration is better but I can still feel it shaking a bit. The engine mounts were replaced not long ago.

2. Coil pack replaced. Replaced two more coil packs and the car seems better. going to replace the remaining ones to be safe.

To do maintenance items:

a. Valve cover gasket
b. trans cooler lines
c. parking pawl seap
d. thrust arm ball joints
f. r-main seal seapin
g. front rotors

To be monitored: water pump has play in it and making a slight noise.

Mechanic thinks I can get 300,000 miles out of it but estimates maintenance at 2-3K a year.

Nicholi2007

Usual Causes of Shake

a. Coils & plug wires
b Engine & transmission mounts - Check transmission mount
c. Broken honeycomb in one of the Cats
d. Dirty injectors - Add Techron concentrate to fuel.
e. Dirty or damaged throttle body or damaged TB actuator.
f. CPS

I am going rules each of one these out. I'll update the post.

Nicholi2007

The shaking intensified a few days ago and it felt so bad I thought something was going on underneath the driver's seat.

I became very concerned and bought some compressed air. I sprayed MAF down pretty good thru the screen. The shaking is almost gone.

Having trouble getting the pin off the MAF. I even used vice grubs on the connector but there must be a locking pin of some sort.

I looked at MSKEMBO's instructions:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-goodness.html

Perhaps I should just buy a new one.

Glyn M Ruck

Now that you are sorting things out you might have a MAF problem. You could remove it & clean it properly with MAF cleaner. Try unplugging the MAF & forcing the car onto a default ECU map & see how it runs.

enap66

This is for everyone with a benz or at least a C240. My CEL light was on for 3 years. I was told by everyone that disconnecting the battery would NOT fix this. Well, that's true but not entirely. Here is the deal. Once you fix whatever is causing your light to come on, you MUST disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then reconnect. You'll find that this resets the computer, which is what you want. If you don't disconnect after solving the problem, you'll find that the CEL will return, even after going off for some time. So if your light came back on, don't get discouraged! Disconnect the battery and take it from there.

My problem was P0172 and P0175- faulty O2 sensor! Good luck!

Glyn M Ruck

This is not altogether true. There are certain codes that need to be cancelled once a problem is fixed. There are certain new parts that require adaption with a Star once fitted.

Disconnecting the battery is not a golden rivet.

enap66

Although this probably holds true, my car did something this time that it hadn't done before. Before, when I'd fix the problem that brought me the codes P0172 and P0175, even with the CEL off, the code reader would pull those codes. Now, the code reader pulls NOTHING. So I pray that by fixing the problem along with disconnecting the battery as to reset the codes, has worked this time. Time will tell...

Nicholi2007

Thanks Glyn.

1. I agree. I have not cleaned it yet but I will. Last time I tried to disconnect the MAF plug it did not want to come off. Perhaps more force?

2. I decided to take it to the dealer. Mercedes of Beverly Hills

Diagnosis: Rear main seal needs to be redone. The SA states the leak is being blown up onto the engine which makes it look like the valve cover gasket is leaking. They assured me it wasn't.

Cost $1,004.00 after discount.

Mileage just under 100,000.