Cars Dead Battery or alternator?
A week down the road which is the day before yesterday. I got "Light Sensor Visit Workshop" error came on, I noticed things aren't really right. When I start the car, it seems to take a little more work to start up the instrument cluster dims quite a bit and flickers when I turn the key to start the car up.
Car is an 02 i dunno if the battery was ever replaced is there anyway to tell the year on it?
Now yesterday the car just sits.. Because it just doesn't have enough power to start up. I really don't know if its the battery or the alternator i don't have to much cash right now to buy both.. Is there a way to test each? If the battery is holding a charge? Or If the Alternator is putting out any power?
Thanks again
Back 2 the forums
It seems like it should be the battery.
There is a pretty good chance that the battery has not been changed on the car.
Edit
I saw in your sig that you have a sound system. Maybe it might be the battery.
It seems like it should be the battery.
There is a pretty good chance that the battery has not been changed on the car.
Edit
I saw in your sig that you have a sound system. Maybe it might be the battery.
Yes i had to un-install my woofers just to get another weeks use out of the car lol. But i will take out the battery and go to a place and test it soon.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ggestions.html
This is what Glyn said and he knows a lot about cars.

"The OE batteries usually walk 7 years which is why I recommend them. Whatever you decide don't go with a wimpy battery - 100ah or greater. Benz vehicles have huge current draw at start"
So I would go with 100ah or greater.
He said they go 7 year Mercedes batteries so since your car is an 02 I guess it really is time.
Good Luck
100% 12.7V
90% 12.5V
80% 12.42V
70% 12.32V
60% 12.20V
50% 12.06V
40% 11.9V
30% 11.75V
20% 11.58V
10% 11.31V
0 10.5 V
You test the alternator with a VM with the motor running. Should be 13.5V to 14.5V If you find a 100ah battery other than the OEM please let us know, I don't think you will. With your "accessories" you definitely want at least a 100ah battery. Where you are just call MB Road Side Assistance and they'll bring a battery, install it, and dispose of your old one....for a premium price...about $175 (the price of the battery)? It's worth it. Lots of short trips degrade a battery quickly. And as Tru Taing said, seat modules are battery eaters. Do you have a DVM?
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100% 12.7V
90% 12.5V
80% 12.42V
70% 12.32V
60% 12.20V
50% 12.06V
40% 11.9V
30% 11.75V
20% 11.58V
10% 11.31V
0 10.5 V
You test the alternator with a VM with the motor running. Should be 13.5V to 14.5V If you find a 100ah battery other than the OEM please let us know, I don't think you will. With your "accessories" you definitely want at least a 100ah battery. Where you are just call MB Road Side Assistance and they'll bring a battery, install it, and dispose of your old one....for a premium price...about $175 (the price of the battery)? It's worth it. Lots of short trips degrade a battery quickly. And as Tru Taing said, seat modules are battery eaters. Do you have a DVM?
I had a digital volt meter somewere around the house.. But i would have to get the car running first.. hmm Ive tried to jump start my car in the past but i could never jump it =/
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Part Number 49-850B
Group Size 49
Description Bosch S5 (Pep Boys)
CCA @ 0F 850
Ca @ 32F 1000
RC min @ 25A 120
Length in Inches 14
Width in Inches 6-7/8
Height in Inches 7-7/16
SKU# 9073755
UPC# 02885155845 7
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I was just going to call them in the morning and get a battery.. Theres two bolts people are talking about that i don't wanna deal with because i don't have the right tools lol. I guess ill stand right next to him to make sure my car doesn't get hurt.. I don't wanna mess up the brand new paint =D
I had an Interstate Mega-Tron plus 85, but had problems with it so I had a Duralast Professional battery installed (had one in my 300E before and have one in my wife's ML) and have had no issues.

Nay! Do NOT do this. The battery serves other functions aside from just starting the car.
mleskovar, if I put my car in dyno mode, the first screen it shows is a voltage screen. Running the car says this: "UB 13.6V" - is this screen on the pre-facelift cars? Or is this not related to battery issues, like is this not something that you could use to tell whether or not your battery is bad. When my car is parked, it says 12.3v. During start up it runs down to like 10.5, then bounces back up to 13.6-14.4v. I was just wondering.. I don't know a TON about these cars (certainly nothing like you do) and I'm trying to learn.
Last edited by LILBENZ230; Apr 15, 2009 at 12:52 AM.

100% 12.7V
90% 12.5V
80% 12.42V
70% 12.32V
60% 12.20V
50% 12.06V
40% 11.9V
30% 11.75V
20% 11.58V
10% 11.31V
0 10.5 V
You test the alternator with a VM with the motor running. Should be 13.5V to 14.5V If you find a 100ah battery other than the OEM please let us know, I don't think you will. With your "accessories" you definitely want at least a 100ah battery. Where you are just call MB Road Side Assistance and they'll bring a battery, install it, and dispose of your old one....for a premium price...about $175 (the price of the battery)? It's worth it. Lots of short trips degrade a battery quickly. And as Tru Taing said, seat modules are battery eaters. Do you have a DVM?
Going to see if it will charge.. If the battery will not hold a charge then its the battery correct?
Last edited by krisv420; Apr 16, 2009 at 06:20 PM.







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