Glyn M Ruck

I missed this thread - very useful & many don't have manuals with there cars

Kimmel

Very useful PDF. Is it possible to deny the any of the steps at the dealership? I got new wipers like a month ago for $18 and the dealership replaced them. They charged me $80 for the new ones. I'd rather be told I need new wipers and then go buy them myself instead of paying that much for them.

KompressorS

Hey Karo, Does the car have to have the service A at exactly 65,000 miles?. My car is telling me that I needed service A at 61,185. Does this vary? The car has been sitting. When I got it the car said that Service A was exceeded by 116 days, now its at 420 days @62.000 miles (Just started driving it). Should I do an oil change and filter change just to be safe?.

RichardM98

For a complete list of all current MB factory approved fluids for modern models see Post #14 on the thread in the link below to the pdf. On the motor oils read the paragraph at the head of the table carefully. You can also find the document on the mbusa website under technical resources. Copyright is fall of 2007 but it is the latest one.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...d-2nd-3rd.html

BTW, in the first post of this thread it was questioned why a B service requires removing the wheels. That is so that the required measurements of the pad and disc thickness can be made. It's also likely that tire rotation is in order as well.

W203E35

From what I hear from a lot of members is, change the oil once a year. I heard that when oil sits like that it looses it elements. So basically not only do miles have an effect on oil but also the oil itself just sitting there. Think of it as expiring

Just follow the maintenance indicator and you'll be fine.

purplecones

I recently went for a service A and they changed engine oil and filter. The rest of the it's they only checked!! On the summary paper it states that They found the brake reservoir dirty/contaminated and coolant to be dirty. They did not resolve these issues. The first poster said that they should correct these if necessary. Why did I just pay $250?? For them to just check it? Are they suppose to change coolant / brake fluid if it's dirty?

Also:
Not only that, they did not even correct the tire pressure! It just says that the pressure is below factory recommendation. Washer fluid also low, and they did not correct that either. Can someone confirm if they are suppose to correct these or just notify me about it.

W203E35

What that means is your brake fluid is dirty and needs to be changed. If your brake fluid wasn't dirty they most likely would have topped it off.

About tire pressure that's a different story and they should have put air in them. This info is straight from the Mercedes Benz Service Handbook. You are free to print the PDF file and read it yourself or take it with you and speak to a manager.

RichardM98

Did you go to a dealer? They will top off any fluids that are low as part of a Schedule A service. Independents don't always do that. It's how they do it cheaper than the dealer. If you went to a dealer and were treated that way, I'd definitely find a new dealer or an indy than understands MB basic service requirements. If it's the only dealer nearby, call and make an appointment with the Service Manager to discuss it.

BTW, your brake fluid should be completely flushed every two years. That is the recommendation of all auto manufacturers not just MB. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Yes I know the system is sealed but it's not air tight. The moisture lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid resulting in bubbles during hard braking. This reduces braking efficiency. Also, the moisture can promote corrosion in the system.

Coolant should be flushed every three years to prevent corrosion/fouling in the radiator.

Good luck.

RichardM98

Your car's electronics monitors the oil level, oil quality and how you drive (short trips vs long hauls). It then determines how long you can go between oil changes. The minimum is one year or 10K miles, the max is two years or 20K. Most people fall in the 12-14K range.

When you do a Schedule A service (it's more than an oil and filter if you want your car to last), the mechanic should know how to reset the service reminder so that it starts over. If they don't you need to look for a more competent mechanic.

You DEFINITELY need an oil and filter. It was 116 days past due when you parked it. It's been parked 304 days. So you've exceeded the 1 yr minimum by at least a couple of months. Use a 229.3 or 229.5 MB approved synthetic oil and a fleece media filter.

Good luck.

W203E35

Brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs and retains water. When brake fluid gets hot and boils which turns into steam then once cools down the water separates from the actual fluid which causes air pockets or more known as bubbles. Air doesn't randomly get in there. That's why never keep open brake fluid. It has no use because moisture has gotten in there.

RichardM98

Good advice. In your car air gets in systematically (a tiny bit) because the brake fluid expands and contracts (very slightly) during operation. When it expands air is forced out when the system cools and it contracts a tiny amount of air is pulled in along with it's moisture. This cycle is repeated almost every time you drive. That's part of the basis for the 2 year service cycle.

W203E35

I was trying to find a pic to post here but couldn't. We did a brake fluid flush for a member who didn't change his fluid for over 60k miles. It looked like pepsi (i'm not kidding).

Kimmel

Not to sound pushy, but is it possible to deny any of the steps done in the service?

AdidasC230

Karo, do you don't have the Manual Gearboxs Fluid capacity, its 1.6L for the M272 is mated to, it is atleast

Moviela

What you say is true, except the amount of water that can be absorbed in two years is not going to effect braking or cause corrosion. The brake system is not sealed by any means. It is vented to the atmosphere and moisture laden air is sitting on top of the fluid tank.

The dirt in the fluid is not coming in through the vent in any large amount. The dirt in the fluid comes a little bit from the brake dust that sneaks past the caliper piston seals, and mostly from corrosion of the calipers and brake lines.

The reason brake fluid should be changed every two years, regardless of mileage, is because of copper absorption. This is the agent that causes the corrosion. Some light reading:

http://www.brakestrips.net/white_paper.htm

KompressorS

Thanks for the replies Richard and Karo!

I have found and Indy shop here in AnnArbor who have been in business for over 30 yrs specializing in these cars.

Theres also an authorized MB Mechanic where I live who will do all my services. Who quoted me $70 for and oil/filter change. Sound fair?

hieracity

Yo Karo, I need to change out my brake fluid too. Can you point me to DIY on it please? Can't seem to find it .

Thanks!
G

hieracity

any help would be appreciated guys!

thanks

W203E35

sorry man, I just saw this.

Let me get the document

W203E35

You need to do farthest to closest.

Pass rear, Driver rear, Pass and then Driver

W203E35

Basically you need to pump, build pressure and release the valve on each caliper while constantly refilling brake reservoir.

Do it until you see a change in color. Then move onto the next brake.

Glyn M Ruck

Good stuff Karo. Will be back in SA on Thursday. Then I can resume my forum duties.

samaritrey

Hope you had a good trip

hieracity

Is there a specific fluid that you guys recommend? I have no clue which one to get...lol

Oh, and I have a big brake kit (E63 calipers and rotors specifically) so do i need something more specific for them?

ooo, will the instructions be the same for the amg brakes?

Thanks a lot!

G

W203E35

Same procedure, for all brakes. Any DOT4 should do the job. You don't need overpriced (racing) brake fluid especially if you follow the manual and do a brake fluid flush every 2 years (recommended)