Benz Specific transmission codes:

P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0722 Output Speed Sensor No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High
P0725 Engine Speed input Circuit Malfunction
P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect ratio
P0736 Reverse incorrect gear ratio
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off
P0747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent
P0760 Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P0761 Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off
P0762 Shift Solenoid C Stuck On
P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0764 Shift Solenoid C Intermittent
P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
P0766 Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off
P0767 Shift Solenoid D Stuck On
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0769 Shift Solenoid D Intermittent
P0770 Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
P0771 Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
P0772 Shift Solenoid E Stuck On
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical
P0774 Shift Solenoid E Intermittent
P0780 Shift Malfunction
P0781 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0782 2-3 Shift Malfunction
P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
P0784 4-5 Shift Malfunction
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance
P0787 Shift/Timing Solenoid Low
P0788 Shift/Timing Solenoid High
P0789 Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent
P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0801 Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction
P0805 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0806 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0807 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Low
P0808 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit High
P0809 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent Ckt
P0810 Clutch Position Control Malfunction
P0811 Clutch Slippage Excessive
P0812 Reverse Input Circuit Malfunction
P0813 Reverse Output Circuit Malfunction
P0814 Trans Range Display Circuit Malfunction
P0815 Upshift Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0816 Downshift Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0817 Starter Disable Circuit
P0818 Driveline Disconn. Switch Input
P0820 Gear Lever X-Y Sensor Circuit
P0821 Gear Lever X Sensor Circuit
P0822 Gear Lever Y Sensor Circuit
P0823 Gear Lever X Sensor Circuit Intermittent Ckt
P0824 Gear Lever Y Sensor Circuit Intermittent Ckt
P0830 Clutch Position Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0831 Clutch Position Switch A Circuit Low
P0832 Clutch Position Switch A Circuit High
P0833 Clutch Position Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0834 Clutch Position Switch B Circuit Low
P0835 Clutch Position Switch B Circuit High
P0836 4 Wheel Drive Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0837 4 Wheel Drive Switch CKT Range/Perf
P0838 4 Wheel Drive Switch Circuit Low
P0839 4 Wheel Drive Switch Circuit High
P0840 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0841 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch A CKT Range/Perf
P0842 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low
P0843 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch A Circuit High
P0844 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch A CKT Intermittent
P0845 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0846 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch B CKT Range/Perf
P0847 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low
P0848 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch B Circuit High
P0849 Trans Fluid Press Sensor/Switch B CKT Intermittent
P1000 Electronic Gear Selector Module: Defective N15/5

 

I sure appreciate the info ! I am guessing I do need that STAR tool to reprogram the plate ! Do you think perhaps Pep Boys or AAmco transmission may have the tools to finish the job?
The dealer did tell me i would have to reprogram the transmission.
However, when I disconnected the positive side of the battery to reset the check engine code... Now I am unable to connect with my OBD tool anymore to find out what engine codes are up. Check engine light is back on ! Could this be a fuse?

and for inquiring minds, Highland Automotive & Racing is in Clyde Texas. We build Japanese & European hotrods and drift machines.

 

CPS = crankshaft position sensor. I doubt that's the problem because if it fails the engine wouldn't start but 'input turbine sensor' is a new one on me and the CPS is one sensor that checks motor speed. Yes, fluid level can affect shifting....the slamming into gear is a low fluid symptom. You won't find many experts on the 5 speed because they are very reliable and rarely need repair. I doubt AAMCO or Pep Boys would have the STAR but you never know. I hate to beat a dead horse but I think you could be wasting your time if you can't measure the fluid level. Check the TCU like Glyn suggested as well. Under the front passenger side floorboard in a covered recess. You'll know if it's been affected if it's saturated with trans fluid.

 

ok, I feel like an idiot ! Could not see the dip tube with my own eyes ! Its only when I went to take a photo to post, showing it did not have a dip tube ! But boy was I wrong. Saw it after taking the photo but it is way down there! ok, checked the fluid level... it is ok ! Right where it is supposed to be at 80.
I guess I am stuck in Limp mode ! How do I get it out of that mode is the question!!!!!
I was told I had to program the transmission again after installing the Ectro_Conductor plate. is this true? if so... How do I go about resetting this to factory default?

 

Yes it is true - You now take this vehicle to someone with a STAR & capable of doing the software flash & have it set up to spec & cancel limp. - Choice = Dealer with STAR & latest software or Indy with STAR & latest software that knows what they are doing. I would be inclined to go to a dealer. At least you have saved all the labour cost on the repair & hopefully some spares mark up.

Good Luck You can't do this yourself & most shops can't do it either. After reprogramming I expect that the OBDII port will function normally.

 

ok, i figured it would need programming again ! anyone know what the cost is on having that done? why is it you have to program the elctro plate anyway?

 

To get the system to recognise it.

 

do you know what it would cost to get that flashed or programmed?
See, my problem is the closest dealer is 180 miles away.

 

You need local input on that - I lived in Dallas from 1994 to 1999 & in Marin County, Bay Area 2001/2002. I'm hopelessly out of date with US pricing

 

appreciated anyway Lol
Is that where you live? Cape Town? Its been a while since ive been in SA. last time I was in Pretoria while i was with 22nd regiment.

 

Yep! That's where I live. Had an international job with a multinational oil company & lived all over the world. Traveled globally > 200 days a year for many years. Now back home.

 

Nice !

 

Any outfit that builds hot rods is alright by me.
Didn’t intend to come across as an aloof and arrogant *** in my previous post. Kindly disregard.

Your initial "input turbine sensor fault" may have solely been as a result of a leaking or otherwise defective pilot bushing. When they fail, ATF often migrates up past the plug socket and into its harness to wreak havoc with the electronics. Trust you thoroughly cleaned the female end and its neighboring wires during replacement. The male junction is very fragile and easily damaged during reconnection. Don’t ask how I know. The pins must engage properly.

Because you’ve already replaced the electrohydraulic control unit (valve body), let’s assume it’s intact and ready to function correctly. Perhaps it’s the connection – or lack thereof – between the ETC/EGS (TCU) and the transmission that’s prompting limp mode. I’ve had my valve body out and its shift plate partially disassembled on the workbench chasing torque converter lockup gremlins. Although its adaptations may have been erased by doing so, it drove normally upon reassembly. I suspect programming parameters are stored in the ETC/EGS and can therefore enable regular function after an R&R. Don’t pull your hair out just yet.

As Glyn suggested, virtually all competent independent MB shops have STAR-DAS if, in fact, it’s required to activate your new electrohydraulic control unit. Around here, it’s typically ~$150 to hook it up; often much less to a tradesman on barter . Good luck.

 

i'm in california and was able to get my codes reset at a indy shop for $90 via star.

 

Hey I do appreciate the input ! Now its a question of finding someone competent with a Star-Das
Nice carputer system by the way !

 

thanks...but yeah you dont really need to be that competent.

They only need to be competent enough to hook up a obdii port. they just reset the codes via laptop. its pretty straight forward. Its kinda a rip off they charged me $90 to do it when it only took like 5min, but i understand its a expensive system.

 

Mike - I know what you are saying - it's certainly not rocket science but it staggers me how many techs don't know their way around the STAR & you have to tell them what to do. It's really a matter of searching the menu, select & click. Reflashing the control software is equally easy.

John - regarding your excellent post. I've never personally had the valve body out for repair on a 722.6 so I bow to your superior knowledge. I've just been told by a usually trustworthy source that I gave a call on this one, that after a P0715 or similar induced limp & plate replacement that readaption is required with a STAR & software reflash is recommended.

I've only ever done a 1st to 2nd one way clutch replacement on a friend's car on the 722.6.

 

It seems like you are moving closer and closer to the ocean. Dallas then to Marine County now to the most beautiful place I ever saw (clean and blue waters). Whats next an Island?

Here is my beach (Santa Monica)

 

Had an apartment overlooking the inner harbour in Sydney, Australia as well. In fact while living in Larkspur I also had a company paid for apartment in Sydney - they paid for both ends lucky me. I know Santa Monica & Venice Beach - Is it really that grubby now?

An Island would do - but inconvenient. I'm happy with my little piece of paradise

 

Sorry but i have to laugh. Many folks here on this board have successfully flushed the tranny fluid, and certainly are not ASE certified mechanics by following the instructions posted in various places on this site.
Which brings me to the reason I DIY.
You obviously didn't do your homework before starting, certified or otherwise and made a huge mess of things, ha just like when I take it to the dealer! he he

No one has up to this point managed to get their tranny locked into limp mode after a flush.
(Though one guy did put all the tranny fluid in the engine and blow the seals and the tranny.)

If you search you may find a thread started by me that pretty much covers everything you could ever want to know about the 722.6 tranny and how to flush it. Too bad you didn't read it.

As far as your EBD port not communicating, try checking the fuse..the port has it's own fuse,
I just had this happen recently. Fuse diagrams are on the site also.

 

In fairness, this was a little more than a transmission flush. While I've never understood the fear of auto boxes, many won't go as far as stripping the valve body.

 

The guy didn't have a dipstick, and EVEN IF HE HAD,
he didn't know where to put it, ie argued to the death that no
fill tube existed.

Thats pretty stupid. ESPECIALLY for a pro.
If there's something else wrong with the tranny it's also quite likely self induced
stupidity, from lack of research, or...I suppose over confidence that hey, a tranny is a tranny.
Well, perhaps except these cost 10 grand, and if you mess up you may have to replace it.
In many cases exceeding the value of the vehicle.

FYI to our machanic friend
MBUSA sells a services DVD ($60) for the W203 chassis that has lots of tranny info, and
also Haynes recently released a manual. ($25)
And of course if he had used the search button or google, he would've found all the info he needed
on tranny flushes, but the more complicated stuff might require a manual and a an SD.

Lastly as you've learned the hard way, dealer don't know crap.
You're 1st mistake was listening to them...I'm sure they really had no idea what was wrong,
just made up something that cost a lot...
You need to do your own diagnosis.

You're supposed to pump 3 quarts at a time...if you did all 9 at once you may have fried the
pump.
All necessary info IS posted on this site...

This thread perfectly illustrates why I do not trust mechanics.
Well, at this late stage of my life, I have ONE that I trust, who does
mercedes. He's not inexpensive, but he has a lot of overhead, and
and he knows it would be hard to pull the wool over my eyes.
He knows what he's doing, goes to MB classes, and
he doesn't sell you work you don't need and yeh, he's got SD.

 

THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR INPUT ! wENT TO SEE A FRIEND WHO HAS A SNAPON SOLUS DIAGNOSTIC BOX... RESET ALL THE CODES AND TRANSMISSION CODES AND SHE RUNS LIKE A DREAM AGAIN !
I AM SO RELIEVED AND PLEASED WITH YOU GUYS SUPPORT AND HELP !
eSPECIALLY GLYN AND splinter & mleskovar ... YOU GUYS ROCK !

 

BY THE WAY, IM NOT STUPID ! tHE DIP TUBE WAS WAY DOWN THERE. COULD BARELY REACH IT ! and obviously I do know how to do this.... all i needed was to reset the computer for the transmission.. Apparently only a few of you knew this had to be done !
Besides... I saved $1200 doing it myself.

 

I'm delighted - This is good news & I've learned some more about these trannys by doing some research - That SnapOn Solus is a nice but expensive piece of kit. You obviously rebuilt the valve body properly. Out of interest - does the OBDII port now work after the adaption with the Solus? Nice saving!