Engine isn't starting right...

I did another test today. My battery showed 14.2v with the car running. Immediately after shut-off it said 13.0. Less than 1 minute later it showed 12.7. I stopped watching at this point. I'll look again later. So you don't think this would cause the issue? The reason why I thought so is because it feels like (in my car anyway) a weaker cold start than it used to be. I'm not worried about it, though. It runs fine.
. I don't care for the clear masks but they are supposed to really work.

After the initial failure, it starts up fine and runs well. I was low on gas (although it was not old gas) and afraid that it could have been an issue, but I put extra gas in (93 octane) + octane booster and some fuel cleaner. It wasn't necessary, but I wanted to be on the safe side with the gasoline.
I've brought the car down to my mechanic and they couldn't replicate the problem. There are no error codes and the car seems to be starting up fine afterwards. I may ask to leave the car there overnight, so that they can try and check things out. I'd hate to have a minor problem lead to something bigger down the line.
Mine has never stalled (I'm at 81k miles). How many are you at? You should definitely leave it overnight with a mechanic. It could be the TB like nlpamg's car.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
- battery replaced (with proper OEM battery)
- alternator replaced (150 amp bosch reman - this is an upgrade to the alt used in the c320)
- spark plugs replaced (with the same NGK plugs it came with)
It happened again this morning, although not as bad. The car didn't stall out, but the RPM's dropped for a second on startup and I thought it was going to stall. Again, it runs perfectly fine after the initial hiccup. I use the car almost every day.
I'm currently at about 52,000 miles and haven't had any mechanical issues yet. Bought the car 2 years ago w/ 24k on it. I was mainly afraid of this becoming worse over time - I try to do as much preventative maintenance as possible. I guess I'll just wait and see how things go.

-Clean air cleaners
-Spotless & operating to spec MAF
-Spotless & operating to spec Throttle Body
-Clean inlet system & no valve tulip deposits - 112s can get awfully fouled in inlet manifold & flaps
-Decent, clean, low mileage plugs
-Good plug wires
-Coil packs at required voltage with no earth flash overs.
-Perfect CPS & cam modules
-Clean fuel filter (proper fuel delivery)
-Fuel pump & sensors up to spec so that that injectors see correct pressure - rail pressure etc dependent on engine. Fuel tank & systems in good order
-Clean and undamaged injectors
-Vacuum systems in good order with no leaks & no leaks on MAF or TB rubbers
-02 sensors cycling fast enough
-engine temperature sensor properly earthed & reading correctly for correct starting mixture
Of course engine in good nick with adequate and even compression. No leaking valves or stuck or damaged rings.







