C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Engine isn't starting right...

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Old May 29, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #26  
mleskovar's Avatar
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From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
'17 Jaguar XF
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Off topic - see you on screen. mleskovar - Are Benz paint colours international? I see you recommend these pens & they look like a really good idea. My colour is MB 0744 which is known as Iridium Silver in South Africa but I see is called Brilliant Silver in the US under the same code. Do you think 744 is the same colour worldwide never mind what they call the colour in a specific market?
Missed your post until now....but to the point...I don't know. However, I believe if the paint code is the same, the color is the same. I don't remember specifying what country of origin the car was. Incidentally, don't bother with getting the clear coat. No need, it doesn't enhance the fill. Smoothing it with Langka, then polish followed with wax on top does the trick. But usually you're just dabbing small chips where the undercoat shows anyway. Although I have done some large scrapes with good success using that procedure.
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Old May 29, 2009 | 09:08 PM
  #27  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Thanks - I'm sure 744 is 744. I have about 3 tiny stone chips. Not through the undercoat.
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Old May 29, 2009 | 09:24 PM
  #28  
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2012 C300 4Matic
Originally Posted by LILBENZ230
My car is also 744.

I did another test today. My battery showed 14.2v with the car running. Immediately after shut-off it said 13.0. Less than 1 minute later it showed 12.7. I stopped watching at this point. I'll look again later. So you don't think this would cause the issue? The reason why I thought so is because it feels like (in my car anyway) a weaker cold start than it used to be. I'm not worried about it, though. It runs fine.
Didn't you read the post above? 12.7 would be a perfect 'resting' voltage.
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Old May 29, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #29  
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Yes I did, I saw that.. but it falls down after a night to about 12.4 or 12.5
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Old May 29, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #30  
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From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
...I have about 3 tiny stone chips. Not through the undercoat.
You wouldn't believe what the front of a car looks like after a year of freeway commuting in Southern California. 10's of chips/nicks/gouges/bullet holes . I don't care for the clear masks but they are supposed to really work.
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Old May 30, 2009 | 08:13 AM
  #31  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yes your road conditions are quite harsh. I did not find San Francisco too bad but when I lived in Dallas the nose of the car used to take a pounding. Winter & all that grit they used to lay down on the roads. I must say I've wondered about the clear 3M overlay a lot of people are using here. Can't stand black vinyl bonnets.
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Old May 12, 2010 | 03:41 PM
  #32  
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From: Yonkers, NY
2005 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
Sorry to bring up a semi-dead topic, but I'm having a mildly similar problem with my car lately (2005 c230 sedan). In the last 3 days, my car has had starting problems the first time I tried to start the car. The car had tried to start, and then stalled out.

After the initial failure, it starts up fine and runs well. I was low on gas (although it was not old gas) and afraid that it could have been an issue, but I put extra gas in (93 octane) + octane booster and some fuel cleaner. It wasn't necessary, but I wanted to be on the safe side with the gasoline.

I've brought the car down to my mechanic and they couldn't replicate the problem. There are no error codes and the car seems to be starting up fine afterwards. I may ask to leave the car there overnight, so that they can try and check things out. I'd hate to have a minor problem lead to something bigger down the line.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 06:09 AM
  #33  
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My car is still exhibiting this trait a year and 31,000 miles later. I'm not concerned anymore. The alternator is charging at what it should, the battery is still showing about 60% life left, there's a slight stumble on cold starts but nothing more.

Mine has never stalled (I'm at 81k miles). How many are you at? You should definitely leave it overnight with a mechanic. It could be the TB like nlpamg's car.
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Old May 15, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #34  
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From: NYC
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Mine stopped doing it for a long time since posting in this thread. Recently alternator melted (windings shorted out) and driving home on the battery finally caused it to give out. The car sat dead for about a week before I installed the new alt and batt. Electrical system is working fine, but now the engine is doing that stumble again when it hasn't run!!

- battery replaced (with proper OEM battery)
- alternator replaced (150 amp bosch reman - this is an upgrade to the alt used in the c320)
- spark plugs replaced (with the same NGK plugs it came with)

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Old May 19, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #35  
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2005 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
Thanks for the replies. Left it at the mechanic's overnight, but they weren't able to replicate the problem in the morning. (Maybe it's the colder mornings that do it, since the car was in the mechanic's garage?). No error codes, everything seemed to be ok.

It happened again this morning, although not as bad. The car didn't stall out, but the RPM's dropped for a second on startup and I thought it was going to stall. Again, it runs perfectly fine after the initial hiccup. I use the car almost every day.

I'm currently at about 52,000 miles and haven't had any mechanical issues yet. Bought the car 2 years ago w/ 24k on it. I was mainly afraid of this becoming worse over time - I try to do as much preventative maintenance as possible. I guess I'll just wait and see how things go.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #36  
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I really consider this issue to be one of perfect tune. The following all need to be completely as new.

-Clean air cleaners
-Spotless & operating to spec MAF
-Spotless & operating to spec Throttle Body
-Clean inlet system & no valve tulip deposits - 112s can get awfully fouled in inlet manifold & flaps
-Decent, clean, low mileage plugs
-Good plug wires
-Coil packs at required voltage with no earth flash overs.
-Perfect CPS & cam modules
-Clean fuel filter (proper fuel delivery)
-Fuel pump & sensors up to spec so that that injectors see correct pressure - rail pressure etc dependent on engine. Fuel tank & systems in good order
-Clean and undamaged injectors
-Vacuum systems in good order with no leaks & no leaks on MAF or TB rubbers
-02 sensors cycling fast enough
-engine temperature sensor properly earthed & reading correctly for correct starting mixture

Of course engine in good nick with adequate and even compression. No leaking valves or stuck or damaged rings.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:47 PM
  #37  
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From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
...
-Clean fuel filter (proper fuel delivery)
..
My car had a slight 'stumble' very intermittently when idling. Hasn't happened since replacing the fuel filter a couple of years ago.
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