capt_paul

1. AC compressor out again (in another post)

2. Persistent P0420 code ever since I installed the Kleemann header/cat, even after replacing the pre- and post-cat O2 sensors.

3. Oil on spark plugs (seems to be common as seen in other threads) and in intercooler.

4. Belt tensioner is bad (belt squeals). I already changed the idler pulley and belt.

I have to get my car emmission tested this month, and it won't pass if my CEL light is on.

LILBENZ230

Saw that post. How much was it? No problems with my A/C at 59,600 miles and in GA heat and humidity.

Can't help you there, but it is things like this that prevent me from modifying my cars. I think it reduces their reliability. You might disagree but that's my opinion.

Is this causing a problem? Codes? Drivability issues? I would have no idea if my car has this same trait but until it affects it somehow, I can't complain.

No idea here. I've never heard my car make a squeal noise.


I know you're venting. It's not that drastic, though.. just be glad you don't have a 2001.

capt_paul

As far as the ac compressor is concerned, you can tell by other memebers that have premature failures as well. Being in Las Vegas, I use my ac almost 11 months a year. My mom's Mercedes has over 200000 miles with no problems. Has reliability gone done that much since her 1990's car?

The P0420 is perplexing because the code always trips at a minimum load (~28%) at 65-70 mph around 2700-2800 rpm. Could it be a cheap cat that Kleemann provides for its header? Luckily, I have my stock exhaust /cat. I will have to buy a new intermediate pipe though, which is very expensive.

The serpentine belt only squealed when first putting a load on the engine (as in putting it gear from park or reverse) with the ac on. When the ac is not on, there is no squeal. Luckily, the compressor (perhaps the whole repair) will be covered under the Indy shop's 1=yr warranty. After changing the belt and the idler pulley, it only leaves the tensioner assembly to blame. According to the repair manual, I have to remove the supercharger and the intake manifold in order to get to one bolt behind the tensioner in addition to the ones in front.

I just want the nightmare to end.

phister

yeah just make sure the belt isnt too tight, thats sometimes the cause of the problem. I know that on most cars there should be at least an inch of play on the belts. As for the code with the cat... On my previous car, 02 civic si, when we installed an aftermarket race header or car, we had to trick the o2 sensor so that it still reads that it has an OEM cat on so that it wouldnt trip the cel light. Its just a o2 bung extension, you can actually make your own, the parts are usually at any part store, I dunno it that'll solve your problem or not.

capt_paul

You cannot adjust the belt tension manually, the tensioner is supposed to mainatian the proper tension of the belt.

I tried to find a O2 spoof, but for Mercedes cars, there is nothing available due to the car's impossible ecu nannies.

Dingleberry

The "O2 spoof" as you call it is known as a defouler. I see no reason why it would not work with any car

mleskovar

Here's a good explanation of it....and like Dingleberry said, it should work with any car http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/bolt-...r-threads.html

capt_paul

Kleeman sent me a "de-fouler" for the post-cat O2 sensor and it did not help.

tommy

Hmmm - does anyone have any direct knowledge of a defouler actually working??

I'm still getting the P0420 with my cat too, but only if I've been driving for a while. So when I get my car inspected on Friday, it will be fine. However, a longer-term solution other than clearing it every time it comes up (though with my Scangauge II in the ashtray, it's about a 5-second fix) would be great.

capt_paul

Update:

Kleemann is working with me to resolve the issue with the P0420 code.

Dropping off the car for the AC repair (covered under warranty)

Tensioner- still debating on doing it myself, indy shop, or dealer.

capt_paul

I did a search for defouler and found some good things from a BMW as well as a VW website. I don't have the links though. The defouler goes on the post-cat O2 sensor (that is the one that gives off the CEL for P0420), the pre-cat is strictly for mxture adjustment for the ECU according to the stuff that I read.

tommy

Yeah, I did some reading at lunchtime - if you go to the civic forum on the link from mleskovar, there's a link to a thread on e46fanatics that I think you're referring to.

If and Kleemann do resolve things, please post it up. Thanks.

FrankW

good to know.

one thing to note: drive the car a lot say 1k+ miles before you go have the smog test. reason is that whenever you get a CEL or disconnect the battery after it's reset the ECU needs a lot of miles before it would register everything as running normal.

capt_paul

Any other time I reset the CEL light the MIL status is OFF until I get about a week or two, then the MIL status would show ON. Shortly after that, I would get the CEL again.

I think the codes that are captured are shown as pending first, before it goes to a hard CEL.

I have to get my car smog tested by the end of this month, so I hope everything goes well.

jokerswld34

do you have a manual? i have experienced all the same issues, but fortunately none are persisting. my ac compressor has failed 3 times, all covered under warranty but a pia regardless. seems like a very common problem around the advent of summer for those who experience winter season. just an fyi, make sure when they do the replacement they swap the dryer motor and evaporator because some metal shards from the broken compressor make their way through the system and will ultimately damage the compressor again (perhaps have them flush the system or at least check to make sure its ok). as per the kleeman, i got the code once, cleared it, and have not gotten it again (5 months driving). i am chipped, which should help the air/fuel ratio match the headers, but i removed my secondary cat, still pass emissions, and never get a CEL. it was a cheap swap too, maybe 50 bucks in piping and welding. i had the squeal too, which was the tensioner, covered under warranty with a new belt. however, my tensioner squeal only was noticeable when the car was turned on and disappeared while driving, regardless of ac on or off. i have a squeal with the ac on when taking off in first or second (manual) and i believe its a failing throw out bearing on my clutch. just a suggestion but a tensioner and belt is certainly something worth replacing if you decide bc it will be needed down the road. hope this helps...

capt_paul

I have an automatic tranny. I am going to be ordering the tensioner assembly tonight. I go back to work tommorrow (I fly from Las Vegas to Chicago to go to work) and hopefully, I will have my car back from the ac repair on Friday. I will have a week off when I get done with work this week so I can fix the other stuff too.

ATL_MB

Check the flange just below the cat on the header. I have found that the bolts there do not stay tight and the flange may then start to leak air, triggering the CEL. Make sure they are tight and that the header and down pipe meet all the way around --no gaps -- and check the bolts regularly. I don't think this will stop the CEL completely, but it should help.

The comment on the tranny is interesting. I have a manual with the Kleeman headers, too, and only get the P0420 code about every 3 months or so. Not sure how the tranny might affect it, although I rarely let my car idle without revving it a little. That may prevent the computer from running the rich/lean checks (which are done at idle, I believe). I doubt many people would regularly rev an automatic at a stop light. I also have a very short commute, which may not allow the engine to warm enough for the computer to run the check (although I do enough warmed-up driving that I doubt that is it).

And as noted above, if Kleemann finds a solution, please post it.

Dingleberry

1k miles seems excessive to me.

My car gets all readiness adaptations set within 100 miles.

FrankW

trust me it doesn't. it may seem like it, but the smog test machines will not pass it until ALL codes are normal.

Dingleberry

What do you mean it may seem like it? I can see all of the readiness parameters active by about 100 miles of driving via scantool.

edit: actually it was about 200 miles of city/highway driving