C200kompressor engine problem

It was today when I started the engine, it's starting but not directly and when the engine runs it's infirm when I drive, it was a very rainy day today, I have changed the air-mass sensor one week ago. Anyone who can help me found out what's wrong?
Thanks

Please give us some more information about your problem - Don't understand "infirm"?? What is the engine doing that you don't like? Why did you change the MAF? Did you replace with a genuine MAF? Do you have an OBDII scanner? Is your car throwing any codes?
If English is not your first language, don't worry - we will help.
We need more information
Please give us some more information about your problem - Don't understand "infirm"?? What is the engine doing that you don't like? Why did you change the MAF? Did you replace with a genuine MAF? Do you have an OBDII scanner? Is your car throwing any codes?
If English is not your first language, don't worry - we will help.
We need more information
I'm from Sweden.
I mean that when I start the car, it feels weak and it only wants to die.
I changed the MAF because it was broken, and yes it was a genuine part.Im going to check the codes when I get a scanner. I was thinking if there is some regular problems on those? If anyone else has had problem with this?

What year is your car & what mileage has it done? The most common problems on the M271 engine are head problems - worse on 2003 models. Deposits build up on valves & cause them to leak & burn & in the combustion chambers causing detonation & misfires. This happens less on high grade European fuels. The other common problem on the M111 & even more so on the M271 is oil leaking out of the cam sensors on the front of the engine. Pull the sensor plugs off & look for oil. This gets in the wiring harness & messes with the electronics. First thing to suffer is usually the O2 sensors because they are low down. When oil gets down to the O2 sensors they send wrong information to the ECU & mess up the fuel trim. Do a search for leaking cam sensors & read the DIY stickies at the start of this forum. A huge amount has been written about the problem. I will try & find a link for you. Benz have a fix for this by replacing the sensors & fitting pigtales to stop oil getting into the engine harness.
Do a throttle reset.
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
We are guessing. Download the OBDII codes with a scanner and let us know.
See my pictures on post number 21 on this thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...e-problem.html
Good Luck
What year is your car & what mileage has it done? The most common problems on the M271 engine are head problems - worse on 2003 models. Deposits build up on valves & cause them to leak & burn & in the combustion chambers causing detonation & misfires. This happens less on high grade European fuels. The other common problem on the M111 & even more so on the M271 is oil leaking out of the cam sensors on the front of the engine. Pull the sensor plugs off & look for oil. This gets in the wiring harness & messes with the electronics. First thing to suffer is usually the O2 sensors because they are low down. When oil gets down to the O2 sensors they send wrong information to the ECU & mess up the fuel trim. Do a search for leaking cam sensors & read the DIY stickies at the start of this forum. A huge amount has been written about the problem. I will try & find a link for you. Benz have a fix for this by replacing the sensors & fitting pigtales to stop oil getting into the engine harness.
Do a throttle reset.
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
We are guessing. Download the OBDII codes with a scanner and let us know.
See my pictures on post number 21 on this thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...e-problem.html
Good Luck
Hi. It's from the year of 2001, and it has run 210.000 km. I have checked the cam sensor, I found out that it's leaking oil into the plug, can it be the problem? I will get a scanner on tuesday, so I will return with answer from the scanner then


Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

it runs very badly when I've just started the engine, and it don't want to go up in RPM, even if I have full throttle.
It also doesn't give any OBDII codes.

First thing to do is go back & check everything you have touched. When new things occur when you have just worked on a car the first suspicion has to be that you have disturbed something.
Good luck!
It doesn't run equally bad when I drive with the manually transmission.
I have checked and everything looks like it should be, have also searched after leakage with the motor starter in intake




The fact that you have a HOLE in your exhaust manifold, means it must have gotten very hot, and typically there's one thing that causes that, and also causes misfires.
The catalytic converter may be clogged...?
Do they use those in Sweden?
and as Glyn says "First thing to do is go back & check everything you have touched. When new things occur when you have just worked on a car the first suspicion has to be that you have disturbed something."
When you start replacing parts randomly, you can have problems.
How many miles on your car?
Other thing you can check is the "recirculating air valve".
Remove the air filter box, it will be visible.
There's a trick to reset it.
1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limphome
position. (NOTE: Which means push it with your finger and hole it while someone turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine. You will see it move and reset itself)
90° position must be changed manually.The processor
shut-off delay has a duration of approx. 5 seconds.
2 Switch on ignition for approx. 15 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
3 Switch ignition on for approx. 45 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
The learn-in procedure for the recirculated air flap is then
completed.
AF07.61-
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Sep 19, 2009 at 04:08 PM.
The car has run 210.000 km, I don't know how to return that into miles.
It have an so called sequentronic gearbox and I'm wondering why it run mutch weaker when I use automatic, than with the manually.
The fact that you have a HOLE in your exhaust manifold, means it must have gotten very hot, and typically there's one thing that causes that, and also causes misfires.
The catalytic converter may be clogged...?
Do they use those in Sweden?
and as Glyn says "First thing to do is go back & check everything you have touched. When new things occur when you have just worked on a car the first suspicion has to be that you have disturbed something."
When you start replacing parts randomly, you can have problems.
How many miles on your car?
Other thing you can check is the "recirculating air valve".
Remove the air filter box, it will be visible.
There's a trick to reset it.
1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limphome
position. (NOTE: Which means push it with your finger and hole it while someone turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine. You will see it move and reset itself)
90° position must be changed manually.The processor
shut-off delay has a duration of approx. 5 seconds.
2 Switch on ignition for approx. 15 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
3 Switch ignition on for approx. 45 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
The learn-in procedure for the recirculated air flap is then
completed.
AF07.61-
Hi again,
I've checked the catalyc today, and everything looks like it should be, also the O2sensors gives signal.
The engine start and run a few seconds and then dies, even if hold full throttle.
The fuel pump works for a while when I turn on the ignition, but then after a while I does'nt hear anything from it, even if the engine is running.
Last edited by Mb_racing; Sep 22, 2009 at 03:20 PM.

When last was the fuel filter replaced? - Change it.
If the car has been standing for a while & you turn on the ignition - you should hear the pump start - build up pressure & then stop & the car is ready for starting. When the engine is running the pump should run continuously - Some people like me can hear it. Some seem not to. Check the fuel pump pressure - s/b approximately 50 psi. You can do this prior the the front injector pump on your engine. The pump is under a round cover plate under the lower back seat on the LHS.




