HID Question
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 102
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
2002 C240, 2006 ML350, 2011 X3
HID Question
Hey guys, I have a question:
Is it possible for a STAR computer or simulator such as Snap On Modus, change a setting on the computer so that during the day time The low beams still get full power. Is it a DRL option or something? *Note this is for Canada, where we have mandatory DRLS*
I have a 55w DDM slim digital kit installed, and I took instructions to my indy to set the xenon and he said he did it. But... during the day time when my lights are set to auto... they STROBE/Flicker... but... they are fine when its like pitch dark out.
Right now... to counter the strobing I manually turn on the lights, before starting the vehicle.
Is it possible for a STAR computer or simulator such as Snap On Modus, change a setting on the computer so that during the day time The low beams still get full power. Is it a DRL option or something? *Note this is for Canada, where we have mandatory DRLS*
I have a 55w DDM slim digital kit installed, and I took instructions to my indy to set the xenon and he said he did it. But... during the day time when my lights are set to auto... they STROBE/Flicker... but... they are fine when its like pitch dark out.
Right now... to counter the strobing I manually turn on the lights, before starting the vehicle.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: East Coast
C230 coupe 2002
i have the same problem as you , i was told to buy those error boxes and i did and those error cancelers did not do squat. so any other ideas? Besides having to turn on and off my car 35 times a day to turn the hid bulb on? lol
... its only the left one duh.
... its only the left one duh.
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02 C320 Sedan
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From: NYC
2007 C280 4Matic
The secret is to buy HID's with DSP. I have a 35w kaixen kit that has never had a problem in the Benz or in my volvo (last car).
100% plug and play into any car; no monkeying around with settings. The Dsp chip simulates a normal bulb.
As far as your problem goes if you have xenon=present I would look at the installation. If you have no error code that's the xenon=present working. You could possibly add in 4700uF anti flicker capacitors before the ballasts. Like this
I believe the DDM kit to be very sensitive. So the capacitors should help.
EDIT: You can also buy premade harnesses with the capacitors built in. Like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-D...item19ba109713
100% plug and play into any car; no monkeying around with settings. The Dsp chip simulates a normal bulb.
As far as your problem goes if you have xenon=present I would look at the installation. If you have no error code that's the xenon=present working. You could possibly add in 4700uF anti flicker capacitors before the ballasts. Like this
I believe the DDM kit to be very sensitive. So the capacitors should help.
EDIT: You can also buy premade harnesses with the capacitors built in. Like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-D...item19ba109713
Last edited by zerocover; Feb 17, 2010 at 02:37 PM.
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From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
There can be several reason that kit HID lamps cause a flicker even with the CANbus set to xenon=PRESENT.
Most counterfeit lamps used in the aftermarket "kits" have no quality of the metalized salts used in the capsule. Most are not 35 watts because the bulbs usually draw more current, and the power supply is higher than the usual 80 volts. There is also a problem with "kits" in that impurities in the capsule cause it to draw more current from the car when the arc is started when light is falling on the headlight housing. The extra current makes the front CAN think there is a problem with the capsule, so it shuts off and restarts. Looks like flicker to me.
I suggest you not use a "kit" over a factory housing and 4300K lamps from GE, Osram/Sylvania, or Philips. Be aware that I have seen counterfeit Philips lamps where a genuine base was attached to a cheap capsule. Probably got the bases from old lamps.
The use of an electrolytic capacitor to add some reactance to the leads can work in limited cases. The capacitor should be rated at 50 volts, and minimum temperature of 105C. The cap will have a + or minus on the cover. The minus must be connected to the brown wire (ground) from the housing. A standard commercial capacitor will not survive in the engine compartment. I do not advise using this technique. It could zap a thousand dollar front CAN if improperly connected.
Good luck to anyone trying to get this to work.
Most counterfeit lamps used in the aftermarket "kits" have no quality of the metalized salts used in the capsule. Most are not 35 watts because the bulbs usually draw more current, and the power supply is higher than the usual 80 volts. There is also a problem with "kits" in that impurities in the capsule cause it to draw more current from the car when the arc is started when light is falling on the headlight housing. The extra current makes the front CAN think there is a problem with the capsule, so it shuts off and restarts. Looks like flicker to me.
I suggest you not use a "kit" over a factory housing and 4300K lamps from GE, Osram/Sylvania, or Philips. Be aware that I have seen counterfeit Philips lamps where a genuine base was attached to a cheap capsule. Probably got the bases from old lamps.
The use of an electrolytic capacitor to add some reactance to the leads can work in limited cases. The capacitor should be rated at 50 volts, and minimum temperature of 105C. The cap will have a + or minus on the cover. The minus must be connected to the brown wire (ground) from the housing. A standard commercial capacitor will not survive in the engine compartment. I do not advise using this technique. It could zap a thousand dollar front CAN if improperly connected.
Good luck to anyone trying to get this to work.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Cleveland, OH
2004.0 C230 Sedan
Hey guys, I have a question:
Is it possible for a STAR computer or simulator such as Snap On Modus, change a setting on the computer so that during the day time The low beams still get full power. Is it a DRL option or something? *Note this is for Canada, where we have mandatory DRLS*
Is it possible for a STAR computer or simulator such as Snap On Modus, change a setting on the computer so that during the day time The low beams still get full power. Is it a DRL option or something? *Note this is for Canada, where we have mandatory DRLS*
Your flickering problem is caused because of your aftermarket HID kit in your low beam, which is also used for your DRL. When your DRL is activated during daytime driving, the wattage going to that bulb is MUCH lower than the typical 55 Watts that would go to a halogen bulb when the light is turned on at night. There is not enough wattage going to your HID kit during the daytime, hence causing the flickering.
The optimal solution is if you can change a setting in your computer that would make your high beam bulb act as your DRL. As long as you have a normal halogen bulb in your high beam, then you will not have any problems. Then this way your low beam with HID kit would only turn on at night at full power.
My thought is that in your Canadian car, there should be some setting in your computer that can be changed, as long as Xenon headlights was a factory option available on a Canadian W203. My guess is that if you have a "xenon=present" setting available, this will make your high beam act as your DRL. Most cars with DRL's that have factory Xenon's will use the high beam as the DRL. Good luck!
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From: NYC
2012 C300 4Matic
I know my reponse is a little late... but I hope you get to read this. I think all of the other responders don't understand how the DRL's (daytime running lights) function on your Canadian car.
Your flickering problem is caused because of your aftermarket HID kit in your low beam, which is also used for your DRL. When your DRL is activated during daytime driving, the wattage going to that bulb is MUCH lower than the typical 55 Watts that would go to a halogen bulb when the light is turned on at night. There is not enough wattage going to your HID kit during the daytime, hence causing the flickering.
The optimal solution is if you can change a setting in your computer that would make your high beam bulb act as your DRL. As long as you have a normal halogen bulb in your high beam, then you will not have any problems. Then this way your low beam with HID kit would only turn on at night at full power.
My thought is that in your Canadian car, there should be some setting in your computer that can be changed, as long as Xenon headlights was a factory option available on a Canadian W203. My guess is that if you have a "xenon=present" setting available, this will make your high beam act as your DRL. Most cars with DRL's that have factory Xenon's will use the high beam as the DRL. Good luck!
Your flickering problem is caused because of your aftermarket HID kit in your low beam, which is also used for your DRL. When your DRL is activated during daytime driving, the wattage going to that bulb is MUCH lower than the typical 55 Watts that would go to a halogen bulb when the light is turned on at night. There is not enough wattage going to your HID kit during the daytime, hence causing the flickering.
The optimal solution is if you can change a setting in your computer that would make your high beam bulb act as your DRL. As long as you have a normal halogen bulb in your high beam, then you will not have any problems. Then this way your low beam with HID kit would only turn on at night at full power.
My thought is that in your Canadian car, there should be some setting in your computer that can be changed, as long as Xenon headlights was a factory option available on a Canadian W203. My guess is that if you have a "xenon=present" setting available, this will make your high beam act as your DRL. Most cars with DRL's that have factory Xenon's will use the high beam as the DRL. Good luck!
The big question here (which could easily solve this problem) is: how does the system treat this problem when it comes from the factory with BIX and the DRL option is enabled? Do the BIX come on at a lower brightness? Is that even possible? Do the high beams come on instead at a much lower brightness? Which additional setting needs to be changed in order to accomplish that?
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2009
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
2002 C240, 2006 ML350, 2011 X3
yeah that was what i was thinking somehow set the computer so that the DRLS are off completely.... i could manually just turn on the fogs... 
I'm going to talk to my indy tech with a Snap On Modus that can simulate STAR... to see if it is possible
I'm going to talk to my indy tech with a Snap On Modus that can simulate STAR... to see if it is possible
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
I know my reponse is a little late... but I hope you get to read this. I think all of the other responders don't understand how the DRL's (daytime running lights) function on your Canadian car.
Your flickering problem is caused because of your aftermarket HID kit in your low beam, which is also used for your DRL. When your DRL is activated during daytime driving, the wattage going to that bulb is MUCH lower than the typical 55 Watts that would go to a halogen bulb when the light is turned on at night. There is not enough wattage going to your HID kit during the daytime, hence causing the flickering.
The optimal solution is if you can change a setting in your computer that would make your high beam bulb act as your DRL. As long as you have a normal halogen bulb in your high beam, then you will not have any problems. Then this way your low beam with HID kit would only turn on at night at full power.
My thought is that in your Canadian car, there should be some setting in your computer that can be changed, as long as Xenon headlights was a factory option available on a Canadian W203. My guess is that if you have a "xenon=present" setting available, this will make your high beam act as your DRL. Most cars with DRL's that have factory Xenon's will use the high beam as the DRL. Good luck!
Your flickering problem is caused because of your aftermarket HID kit in your low beam, which is also used for your DRL. When your DRL is activated during daytime driving, the wattage going to that bulb is MUCH lower than the typical 55 Watts that would go to a halogen bulb when the light is turned on at night. There is not enough wattage going to your HID kit during the daytime, hence causing the flickering.
The optimal solution is if you can change a setting in your computer that would make your high beam bulb act as your DRL. As long as you have a normal halogen bulb in your high beam, then you will not have any problems. Then this way your low beam with HID kit would only turn on at night at full power.
My thought is that in your Canadian car, there should be some setting in your computer that can be changed, as long as Xenon headlights was a factory option available on a Canadian W203. My guess is that if you have a "xenon=present" setting available, this will make your high beam act as your DRL. Most cars with DRL's that have factory Xenon's will use the high beam as the DRL. Good luck!
I'm no MB mechanic but I don't think there would be a setting that can change your DRL to use highbeams. It makes no sense for MB to put in such an option as you'd just look like a douche driving around with highbeams on during the day.
The other solution I was going to recommend actually was putting in some kind of resistor into the high beam sockets, then keeping your high beams on all the time such that your lows always get 55W. The other option is to disable DRL through Star though no authorized MB dealer will do that for you.
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From: Cleveland, OH
2004.0 C230 Sedan
Cars with factory xenon's do not use the xenon headlight as the DRL with a reduced wattage. The high beam bulb will be the DRL (at a lower wattage so you don't look like a douche)
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From: Corona, CA
03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
I think it would be easier if you just bought a separate hid harness and tapped the on trigger for the harness to your side marker. Thats why the hids will turn on independent of the DRL's and only turn on when you turn on your side marker.
You'll get a low beam error but your lights will work.
You'll get a low beam error but your lights will work.
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
If the "highbeam" is used as the DRL, it would operate with a reduced wattage when activated as the DRL. For example, on 2008-2010 US Honda Accords, which have DRL's, the inner headlight (which is also the highbeam) is the bulb that lights up as the DRL. There is a reduced wattage going to the "highbeam", so they don't look like high beams during the day. When you turn on your highbeam, then this bulb will light up at full high beam wattage.
Cars with factory xenon's do not use the xenon headlight as the DRL with a reduced wattage. The high beam bulb will be the DRL (at a lower wattage so you don't look like a douche)
Cars with factory xenon's do not use the xenon headlight as the DRL with a reduced wattage. The high beam bulb will be the DRL (at a lower wattage so you don't look like a douche)
Unfortunately for the OP, I think it's highly unlikely you can simply swap using a computer. Some crimping and rewiring may work (ie swapping the leads between low and high beam) should work though if you really want that effect. I have no idea if this will result in any "bulb out" errors though.
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
^ I don't know if that's dumber than Audi's constant-on fog lights to be honest. That one just looks retarded.
In any case, HIDs pretty much last forever. They're rated for what, 4000+ hours? That will last most people at least 5 years on average, if not more.
In any case, HIDs pretty much last forever. They're rated for what, 4000+ hours? That will last most people at least 5 years on average, if not more.
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2019 G70 6MT & 2022 Ford Maverick XL
I think it's around 3000 hours, but I know from experience that xenons that run constantly suffer loss of light output (pretty severely) even if they still work fine. They'll turn pinkish and you'll not have any real lighting advantage over halogens. You see lots of 2000-2003 Acura cars with this issue. It can't be difficult to make the high-beam run at reduced intensity like other companies.
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From: Corona, CA
03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
HIDS color shift as they get older. They go from a yellowish white to a pure white to more of bluish tint and so on. As it color shifts, the light output does decrease.
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From: Cleveland, OH
2004.0 C230 Sedan
Actually if this is the case, than this is a good thing for the OP. If Canadian W203's that come with factory xenon use the oem xenon for DRL at full power, then problem solved. Just go to the mechanic who has STAR and change setting to xenon=present. That way the DRL will turn on the aftermarket HID kit to full power during the daytime, and no more flickering.
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
2002 C240, 2006 ML350, 2011 X3
the thing is my kit is 55w. But I do have a spare vvme 35 w kit, that i may pop in to see if the issue are gone. I told my mechanic to set the xenon=present last time I was in.
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From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
^ To be honest, I'd be willing to bet that this is exactly the problem you're having. Even with Xenon = Present, your car is only going to output 35W. I'd say a 35W kit (as opposed to 55W) is REQUIRED for this car.
