Question: Have to replace cruise control stalk--210-540-07-45-- but can't find the wire plug to remove the unit. Also,bought a 21--545-022 from Ebay supposed to fit an E320 maybe does but not mine, it is setup for left and right levers. Looking at the 2 units closely, the wiring is exactly the same except there is an extra wire (7 lilac) instead of 6 on the old unit. The basic questing: getting rid of the wiring harness leading to the second lever and the control unit in the housing wouldn't that make it conform to what I need? Hate to experiment until someone with experience offers an opinion. Any help is much appreciated.

 

Can anyone tell me if the 2005 c230 indicator stalk is the same part as for the c200 kompressor ? For some reason the c200 doesnt appear on mb parts sites listed in this article.

Thanks

 

FP - you're asking in the wrong forum; I doubt whether anyone here would know your answer, but you may get lucky.

JC - it's probably the same stalks, I'd be about 95% confident. But what I would do is double check with your local dealer's parts dept. Just don't buy the parts from them.

 

Thanks tommy i have also mailed an online supplier after all they should also know or am i being naive ?

 

Maybe a little of both.

They should know, but they're also trying to make a sale. I've found that the local parts dept. is a more dependable resource.

 

Replaced indicator stalk yesterday. Took it for a drive and was fine but this morning it started showing esp, abs bas errors. Damned anoying since iused the red pin on the angle sensor and are sure it didnt rotate. The reset procedure posted previously indicated left lock then right to left lock 5 times....is that an additional five time ? As in Left-right-left-right-left-right-left-right-left-right-left ? Thanks

 

I'm having trouble removing the 10mm hex bolt.
I'm applying a ton of torque to it but it won't budge and now the inner surface where the Allen head mates is fatiguing and the metal is slightly compressed.
Is there any trick to getting this bolt out?
Maybe applying heat to soften the thread lock?

Thanks

 

Try heat, use a hammer to seat the socket firmly into the hex bolt, then with a breaker bar just keep applying torque then ease off again and again and she should break for you.

 

You're not going to like the answer but here is what I used. I have an impact driver with a 3/8 drive. Basically what happens is it is cam actuated. When you strike it with a hammer it springs cw or ccw depending on how you set it. It is available through NAPA. It may be sold under a different name. It works fantastic for such applications. Since you're hitting it with a hammer you don't have to worry about the bit slipping out of the fastener. If you need the specific part number I can probably provide that for you. I use mine for many other applications. Let me know if you need further explanation.

Good luck

 

Thanks guys, I'll get some heat through it and try again.
I'll also grind off the end of the hex driver as it has a 1 mm chamfered end which reduces the effective contact area by probably 10%.

If it still doesn't budge I'll visit the local tyre repair place that has a 3/8" hammer drill.

I also have one of those hammer drives which I use to get disks off or similar, I'll use it as last resort, but it certainly has been effective in the past.

 

I finally got the 10mm hex bolt off with heat and an extension tube on a breaker bar. It really took a huge amount of force.
The rest of the job took 5 minutes.

Also, the step where people have been lifting all the tabs doesn't need to be done.

Just unscrew the three small torx on the front and the T30 (Or is it #27?) on the underside of the plastic shaft housing. Then pull the whole assembly strait back. It feels a bit firm to release as there's a multi pin plug on the RHS rear of that assembly.

Cheers

Matt

 

I am having trouble removing the steering angle sensor assembly. Attached is a picture of the assembly - it does not have the screws referenced in the instructions and I do not see the tabs referenced by Slammer111. It would seem that this assembly is different than Slammer111s. Any advise as to how to get it off without breaking it is appreciated. I'm replacing the combi switch.


Thanks for your help.

 

NickAdams you should be able to just pull it off. My combi switch was acting up and I replaced two before I figured out it was the SAS causing the problems!

 

Whats an SAS?

 

Sorry - I withdraw the question

 

My combi swich was acting goofy, wipers not coming on all the time, high beams would work 50% of the time, thought for sure it was the combi switch. Bought 2 new ones online, still had the problem. Took it to the local dealer, they said it was the SAS I needed to replace, not the combi switch, problem fixed. Not saying yours is OK, just sharing my woes if you still have any issues after installing the new switch!

 

i had a quick question about removing the bolt from the steering wheel. I have tried everything but its not coming off...I tried the heat gun but it seems to be melting off plastic components on the side...pls help me...I am new here but have been browsing the site for a while and this is my first time trying this, its actually my brothers car. thank you all in advance.

 

I needed to use a breaker bar to get mine to crack. The more leverage the better!

 

thank you mt8667 i finally was able to get the hex bolt off using heat gun but i think i messed up major because removing the steering wheel i find some of the plastic parts melted and bent..I took up this project to fix the wipers not turning on properly and also the turn signal not staying on..but the parts that came with the red pin but cant seem to figure where the red pin goes...also someone mentioned that since i am replacing only the turn signal i dont need to remove the sas, so do i need to use the red pin..here is a pic of where i am so far and u can see the melted plastic parts on both sides. so pissed off

 

In my opinion the best method to remove this is with an impact driver. When you strike the tool with a hammer it rotates slightly to loosen or tighten a bolt or screw. You can purchase the tool from NAPA. It worked perfectly on mine.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...140_0006401995

 

thank you for your reply do you know where the red pin goes. i was able to remove the hex bolt

 

The hex bolt is super tight, but how come a 10mm Allen bit didn't work?

 

hello slammer111, i was able to get the hex bolt out and also used the red pin, the difficulty which i am having and its going to be rather stupid, is the t30 screw underneath, I think i loosened it but the steering wheel column will not slide out, been using quite alot of force on it, i have also unscrewed the 3 screws on the, but the damn thing wont slide out...have a 2004 c230 kompressor,.....pls pls help...u seem to be an expert herer

 

Did you remove the spinning disc in your photo? (part 203-540-00-45) This thing must be removed, as it clips onto the metal shaft. I posted a diagram (not a photo) on how to wobble it off the shaft.

Put that heat gun away. You do not need it at all!

 

Thank you slammer for all the help and information provided here...was a big help and confidence booster to try it out..anyway i finally completed the switch and everything looks good so far havent got any esp or warnings...here is a video that i found on youtube which might be helpful for others also but ofcourse follow slammers instruction on keeping wheel straight and using the redpin provided. I might have made a mistake when aligning it back because when i drive straight the wheel is slightly turned right and also when i turn it makes a slight plastic scraping noise...also the plastic column moves a little, I am really thinking its the underneath screw t30. has to go all the way up...as it can be seen in this video...I didnt feel like taking everything out and redoing so probably next week...anyway here is the video on youtube...and next week i will be trying to fix the freaking pogo stick on my driver door....fun thank you all