DIY: Turn Signal / Cruise Control switch replacement
#76
wow, not sure about that. Unfortunately, my new combo switch didn't solve my problem. My high beams still sometimes flicker or just won't turn on, turn signals and wipers only work 80% of the time, so I have to take mine back apart and I'll look and see how mine is secured.
#77
I just replaced the turn signal stalk. The instructions that slammer111 posted can in fact be simplified. I realized Step 2 was unnecessary. After removing the steering wheel, you can jump right to Step 3 of loosening the T30 bolt underneath the steering column cover and then pull the whole thing out. Inside the steering column, you'll find 3 T10 bolts holding the switch assembly to the steering column cover. Removing those 3 bolts will give you access to switch assembly. You'll then find one single T10 holding the turn signal stalk in place.
I spent some time in figuring out Step 2 about how to remove the steering angle sensor assembly after removing those 3 T10 bolts. I did manage to get it removed. But you can skip this step if you need to replace just the turn signal stalk. I am not sure if you need this step if you need to remove the cruise control stalk.
The other part that took me some time is to remove the 10mm allen bolt (Step 1.5).
Now that I've done it once, I can do the next one within 30 minutes. But I hope I don't need to.
I spent some time in figuring out Step 2 about how to remove the steering angle sensor assembly after removing those 3 T10 bolts. I did manage to get it removed. But you can skip this step if you need to replace just the turn signal stalk. I am not sure if you need this step if you need to remove the cruise control stalk.
The other part that took me some time is to remove the 10mm allen bolt (Step 1.5).
Now that I've done it once, I can do the next one within 30 minutes. But I hope I don't need to.
#78
help
when removing the clock spring, i of course forgot to do the red tab tool - and I had such difficulty getting the clock spring removed in the first place, i broke one of the six tabs. When i put it back together, I now have a grinding noise when the steering wheel is turned.
Can't locate a new clock spring anywhere and want to avoid dealership prices
help?
2003 c240 sedan
Can't locate a new clock spring anywhere and want to avoid dealership prices
help?
2003 c240 sedan
#79
I didn't do the red tab tool neither. And everything seems to work fine. I do find grinding noise, only when I turn the steering in very cold weather (less than -10C). The noise is only there right after you start the car (doesn't matter whether it's a cold start or warm start). I don't think it has anything to do with the red tab or clocking wire.
#81
Turn Signal Switch Question
when removing the clock spring, i of course forgot to do the red tab tool - and I had such difficulty getting the clock spring removed in the first place, i broke one of the six tabs. When i put it back together, I now have a grinding noise when the steering wheel is turned.
Can't locate a new clock spring anywhere and want to avoid dealership prices
help?
2003 c240 sedan
Can't locate a new clock spring anywhere and want to avoid dealership prices
help?
2003 c240 sedan
srb1194
#82
mb
So an update. Purchased new clock spring as the old one had a tab broken. Steering wheel still makes grinding noise when turning the steering wheel 360 degrees. Any ideas? Could i have tightened the steering stalk C clamp too tight onto the steering stalk? I have no idea why the steering wheel would make a grinding noise when turning?
#83
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C200K Jul 2004
Signalling Mechanism Rotates.
Hey guys, Thank you for your contributions and this awesome DIY by slammer111.
I'm wondering if any of you guys encountered this problem or if you know what may be causing it.
I have trouble signalling sometimes (both left and right) because the signalling/cruise control section tends to rotate a bit around the steering column.
In fact the entire assembly (including cover) slightly rotates. Initially I had thought it could have been the T30 bolt underneath the steering column cover however without knowing what this screw screws into it's hard to identify the cause.
The indicators work however it is difficult to distinguish between applying a manual short signal and an automated locked in signal.
Before I start pulling everything apart, I would like to draw upon your experience in identifying the cause of this nuance.
If you have any thoughts please share them. I have posted a video below.
http://youtu.be/FFIocuMRS5w
Many thanks
I'm wondering if any of you guys encountered this problem or if you know what may be causing it.
I have trouble signalling sometimes (both left and right) because the signalling/cruise control section tends to rotate a bit around the steering column.
In fact the entire assembly (including cover) slightly rotates. Initially I had thought it could have been the T30 bolt underneath the steering column cover however without knowing what this screw screws into it's hard to identify the cause.
The indicators work however it is difficult to distinguish between applying a manual short signal and an automated locked in signal.
Before I start pulling everything apart, I would like to draw upon your experience in identifying the cause of this nuance.
If you have any thoughts please share them. I have posted a video below.
http://youtu.be/FFIocuMRS5w
Many thanks
#85
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C200K Jul 2004
I'll buy a Torx 30 today and try tightening it. I'm just concerned if I over tighten it I might break something
#87
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
ram_rtg, you're welcome.
Not sure if you have the same problem as I do, but my entire metal collar moves (see post #75 in this thread, I uploaded a pic). I have a feeling there used to be some restraint that has failed. I can physically turn that metal part, and the plastic steering column cover bolts to that piece.
I'm actually tempted to slop a pile of epoxy on that collar where it meets the shaft.
Not sure if you have the same problem as I do, but my entire metal collar moves (see post #75 in this thread, I uploaded a pic). I have a feeling there used to be some restraint that has failed. I can physically turn that metal part, and the plastic steering column cover bolts to that piece.
I'm actually tempted to slop a pile of epoxy on that collar where it meets the shaft.
#88
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C200K Jul 2004
ram_rtg, you're welcome.
Not sure if you have the same problem as I do, but my entire metal collar moves (see post #75 in this thread, I uploaded a pic). I have a feeling there used to be some restraint that has failed. I can physically turn that metal part, and the plastic steering column cover bolts to that piece.
I'm actually tempted to slop a pile of epoxy on that collar where it meets the shaft.
Not sure if you have the same problem as I do, but my entire metal collar moves (see post #75 in this thread, I uploaded a pic). I have a feeling there used to be some restraint that has failed. I can physically turn that metal part, and the plastic steering column cover bolts to that piece.
I'm actually tempted to slop a pile of epoxy on that collar where it meets the shaft.
I guess if the plastic cover screws into it then it is the same issue as you are having with your cars column slammer111.
Is there any way to remove this (metal sleeve) part and perhaps buy a replacement? Is it bolted on?
I did a Google search on this topic and found little info so your idea of some epoxy is soundin more and more appealling
Other people having this problem here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ng-collar.html
I might call MB and see what they say.
#89
I have just completed this job, I just wanted to post my findings.
Reason: Turn signal not staying on - it had to be held in position to operate.
Part Ordered From: www.carpartsdiscount.com
Cost: USD$168.35 - including FedEx Priority to Australia (USD$45.70). This was the cheapest supplier I found to ship to Australia. When it costs around USD$500 for this part in Australia, that is a good deal.
Removal Notes:
Step 1:
- As suggested, you definitely need two people.
Step 2:
- I did not do, I moved to step 3.
- This step was skipped as the whole assembly comes out in one piece.
- At this stage I inserted the red angle sensor locking pin. It goes in the bottom right corner to stop the sensor from spinning.
Step 3:
- Once screw is loosened all the way, as suggested you need to be quite firm. I removed it a couple of times and did not damage the clips. Just use quite a bit of force to pull the whole assembly towards you and it comes off.
Step 4:
- Here I removed the 3 torx screws from inside steering column cover. This releases the cover from the rest of the assembly.
Step 5:
- This is where I now did slammers111's Step 2, removing the screws and pulling out the angle assembly.
Step 6:
- The turn signal can now be removed
- The stalk for the steering column adjustment is attached to the turn signal, it is removed easily and then attached to the new turn signal stalk.
Putting back together was easy enough, however the steering column cover actually slides in to some grooves on the side of the turn signal - it took me a while to find out why it was not aligning correctly.
Final note, there was a slight problem with the part I ordered - this might be hard to explain: The 2 or 3 wires that come from inside of the turn signal that control the wipers had been fed incorrectly, and the wires had actually been made too short. You shouldn't need to even worry about these wires as they are supposed to be fed along a few clips and stay out of your way. However as I said, mine were made too short and the nice pathway the wire was supposed to take to stay out of your way had been ignored.
This caused me a problem when I tried to slide the assembly back in to the steering column cover - as the wires were catching (again, they are supposed to be out of the way and under some clips). Secondly, the wires were now in the way of the movement of the turn signal and high beam - and only time will tell if the wires will become damaged as a result.
As I'm in Australia, I wasn't even going to bother sending the part back to have it sent back again - but if you do manage to have a look at the part first, you might want to check this out.
Finally, thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread.
Reason: Turn signal not staying on - it had to be held in position to operate.
Part Ordered From: www.carpartsdiscount.com
Cost: USD$168.35 - including FedEx Priority to Australia (USD$45.70). This was the cheapest supplier I found to ship to Australia. When it costs around USD$500 for this part in Australia, that is a good deal.
Removal Notes:
Step 1:
- As suggested, you definitely need two people.
Step 2:
- I did not do, I moved to step 3.
- This step was skipped as the whole assembly comes out in one piece.
- At this stage I inserted the red angle sensor locking pin. It goes in the bottom right corner to stop the sensor from spinning.
Step 3:
- Once screw is loosened all the way, as suggested you need to be quite firm. I removed it a couple of times and did not damage the clips. Just use quite a bit of force to pull the whole assembly towards you and it comes off.
Step 4:
- Here I removed the 3 torx screws from inside steering column cover. This releases the cover from the rest of the assembly.
Step 5:
- This is where I now did slammers111's Step 2, removing the screws and pulling out the angle assembly.
Step 6:
- The turn signal can now be removed
- The stalk for the steering column adjustment is attached to the turn signal, it is removed easily and then attached to the new turn signal stalk.
Putting back together was easy enough, however the steering column cover actually slides in to some grooves on the side of the turn signal - it took me a while to find out why it was not aligning correctly.
Final note, there was a slight problem with the part I ordered - this might be hard to explain: The 2 or 3 wires that come from inside of the turn signal that control the wipers had been fed incorrectly, and the wires had actually been made too short. You shouldn't need to even worry about these wires as they are supposed to be fed along a few clips and stay out of your way. However as I said, mine were made too short and the nice pathway the wire was supposed to take to stay out of your way had been ignored.
This caused me a problem when I tried to slide the assembly back in to the steering column cover - as the wires were catching (again, they are supposed to be out of the way and under some clips). Secondly, the wires were now in the way of the movement of the turn signal and high beam - and only time will tell if the wires will become damaged as a result.
As I'm in Australia, I wasn't even going to bother sending the part back to have it sent back again - but if you do manage to have a look at the part first, you might want to check this out.
Finally, thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread.
#91
I just bought a 2003 C220 CDi and the stalk wouldn't stay in the on position when turning right. There is a way to fix this though.
Remove the switch assembly following the previous instructions in this thread. Then carefully remove the back plastic part that houses the electronics, from the switch.
Gently ease the stalk out, taking care not to allow the spring loaded rollers to launch across the workshop.
As you look into what's left of the assembly you'll see a kind of "U" shaped piece of plastic (sorry i forgot to take pics). When you operate the switch, the spring loaded roller in the stalk clicks past a black plastic piece in the "U" shaped piece, this holds the switch in the on position.
Beneath the "U" shaped piece are two flat pieces of plastic with spring loaded plungers pressing them to the centre of the housing and a small spring loaded piece of plastic right in the middle. After making the turn, the small piece in the middle is pressed inwards, levering one of the flat pieces across and releasing the stalk.
The problem with these switches occurs when the black plastic parts wear, the spring loaded roller then won't hole in place.
The two pieces of black plastic are not handed. Therefore, they can we swapped around. This means that the surface the roller runs over and locks behind is not unused. Just ease the "U" shaped piece out and swap the two black parts from one side to the other. This is now as good as a new switch (in terms of the stalk locking on place).
Slip the "U" shaped piece back in. Gently press it down, making sure the black plastic pins go in their holes, you may find you need to gently operate the flat, spring loaded parts in the bottom of the switch.
Refit the stalk, taking care again not to launch the rollers and spring. Press the stalk right down and whilst keeping light pressure on the stalk, turn the assembly over and push the small, spring loaded part that cancels the turn signal inwards, this lets the stalk drop in another couple of mm.
Finally, refit the electronics. Take care to align the slider for the turn signal switch. Make sure the whole assembly fit together fully and refit the screws. Be careful not to over tighten these screws, the threads seemed very delicate on mine.
Probably sounds more complex than it is, but doubt it took much more than an hour or so in total. Mine now works as good as new and cost a grand total of £00.00
Remove the switch assembly following the previous instructions in this thread. Then carefully remove the back plastic part that houses the electronics, from the switch.
Gently ease the stalk out, taking care not to allow the spring loaded rollers to launch across the workshop.
As you look into what's left of the assembly you'll see a kind of "U" shaped piece of plastic (sorry i forgot to take pics). When you operate the switch, the spring loaded roller in the stalk clicks past a black plastic piece in the "U" shaped piece, this holds the switch in the on position.
Beneath the "U" shaped piece are two flat pieces of plastic with spring loaded plungers pressing them to the centre of the housing and a small spring loaded piece of plastic right in the middle. After making the turn, the small piece in the middle is pressed inwards, levering one of the flat pieces across and releasing the stalk.
The problem with these switches occurs when the black plastic parts wear, the spring loaded roller then won't hole in place.
The two pieces of black plastic are not handed. Therefore, they can we swapped around. This means that the surface the roller runs over and locks behind is not unused. Just ease the "U" shaped piece out and swap the two black parts from one side to the other. This is now as good as a new switch (in terms of the stalk locking on place).
Slip the "U" shaped piece back in. Gently press it down, making sure the black plastic pins go in their holes, you may find you need to gently operate the flat, spring loaded parts in the bottom of the switch.
Refit the stalk, taking care again not to launch the rollers and spring. Press the stalk right down and whilst keeping light pressure on the stalk, turn the assembly over and push the small, spring loaded part that cancels the turn signal inwards, this lets the stalk drop in another couple of mm.
Finally, refit the electronics. Take care to align the slider for the turn signal switch. Make sure the whole assembly fit together fully and refit the screws. Be careful not to over tighten these screws, the threads seemed very delicate on mine.
Probably sounds more complex than it is, but doubt it took much more than an hour or so in total. Mine now works as good as new and cost a grand total of £00.00
#92
Paul_G, you are great! I was trying to see if I could "fix" the turn signal stalk before replacing it. I took the assembly apart but was unable to put things back together. I'll save your instructions in case I need them in the future (hopefully not).
#93
Going to give this a try now, that indicator is getting on my nerves when it doesn't stay.
Only problem is im struggling to get a hold of the angle sensor locking pin, is it safe to proceed without this part? could i not shove something else in there carefully, to hold it in place?
Only problem is im struggling to get a hold of the angle sensor locking pin, is it safe to proceed without this part? could i not shove something else in there carefully, to hold it in place?
#94
Going to give this a try now, that indicator is getting on my nerves when it doesn't stay.
Only problem is im struggling to get a hold of the angle sensor locking pin, is it safe to proceed without this part? could i not shove something else in there carefully, to hold it in place?
Only problem is im struggling to get a hold of the angle sensor locking pin, is it safe to proceed without this part? could i not shove something else in there carefully, to hold it in place?
#95
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Ok so I got the Torx 30 screw driver and found it to be tightened to the max.
I guess if the plastic cover screws into it then it is the same issue as you are having with your cars column slammer111.
Is there any way to remove this (metal sleeve) part and perhaps buy a replacement? Is it bolted on?
I did a Google search on this topic and found little info so your idea of some epoxy is soundin more and more appealling
Other people having this problem here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ng-collar.html
I might call MB and see what they say.
I guess if the plastic cover screws into it then it is the same issue as you are having with your cars column slammer111.
Is there any way to remove this (metal sleeve) part and perhaps buy a replacement? Is it bolted on?
I did a Google search on this topic and found little info so your idea of some epoxy is soundin more and more appealling
Other people having this problem here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ng-collar.html
I might call MB and see what they say.
#97
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C200K Jul 2004
#100
The red plastic tool holds the steering angle sensor or clock spring in place for disassembly. In my opinion it's pretty important. You might could substitute something else that would hold the spring in place like possibly a small paperclip that has been bend accordingly.
Good luck.
srb1194
Good luck.
srb1194