Down shift, check engine light, V8 grumble, power loss, and a burning smell. (20 sec)

Yes
This is where I get confused. If I have poor fuel pressure, wouldn't all my injectors be causing misfires?
At your mileage it is unlikely that all injectors are identical anymore due to wear & deposits etc. So one injector might be down on performance more than others & this would show up with out of spec fuel rail pressure
Or is the techron all part of the scheme? We're cleaning out injector four, while giving back maximum fuel pressure, which should cancel out the misfires, correct?
If deposits are the cause of injector 4 not atomising fuel properly then the Techron will clean those deposits & performance will return to normal. If the injector is physically damaged Techron can do nothing. Injectors can also be cleaned by removing them & placing the tip in an ultrasonic bath. The trouble with this method is it is difficult to control & can damage the coils in the injector - an injector is a solenoid at the end of the day. Techron is the safe way.
Lastly, if the injector is just faulty, we'll replace that.
Is that the correct road to take?
Yes
Thanks!
Edit: Also, can someone please explain limp mode to me a bit more? My car is terribly choppy and sounds absolutely horrid when limp mode kicks in. I guess that's regular?
EDIT - the reason that stopping & restarting clears limp mode is that you are rebooting the TCU & ECU & the fault condition recorded was relatively minor. If the vehicle encountered a major problem like loss of oil pressure then it would lock in limp mode & rebooting would make no difference. Limp mode reads levels of severity - or at least trys to.
Lane - you are obviously a technically competent guy. I'm keeping these explanations simple so all will understand. Please don't think I'm being patronising & trying to insult your intelligence.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jul 24, 2010 at 10:38 PM.
EDIT - the reason that stopping & restarting clears limp mode is that you are rebooting the TCU & ECU & the fault condition recorded was relatively minor. If the vehicle encountered a major problem like loss of oil pressure then it would lock in limp mode & rebooting would make no difference. Limp mode reads levels of severity - or at least trys to.
Lane - you are obviously a technically competent guy. I'm keeping these explanations simple so all will understand. Please don't think I'm being patronising & trying to insult your intelligence.

..those four clamps on the fuel filter lines were a pita. Just saying.
Edit: Glyn! We're victorious! No misfires, flooring through first and second gear. Hopefully it stays that way.
Last edited by laneshift; Jul 24, 2010 at 02:07 AM.


..those four clamps on the fuel filter lines were a pita. Just saying.
Edit: Glyn! We're victorious! No misfires, flooring through first and second gear. Hopefully it stays that way.
This is good news but I'm not rejoicing yet. Let's give it a few days. Directionally though, we are learning - I'm fairly confident that we have a fuel delivery problem on our hands - MAF effects fuel delivery & filter effects fuel delivery. I would like you to be more conscious of fuel pump noise. The pump is mounted in the sender unit under the drivers side rear seat squab. If the car has stood overnight & the rail pressure has dropped - listen carefully for the fuel pump buzz - when you first turn on the ignition before cranking - you should hear the pump start - run briefly & stop - when it gets the rail pressure up to spec & ready for cranking to start. Listen carefully - I want to make sure that the pump stops - this tells us that it is, or should be, achieving full pressure.
Also try & listen to the pump in normal running - it should give off a fairly constant buzz. You might have to train your ear to listen for it. Some people like me are very conscious of the pump whine. Others don't seem to hear it.
Good luck


https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1279969411
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jul 24, 2010 at 07:30 AM.
The whine is also a little different sounding from before I changed the filter. Is this normal?

If the problem returns we will pressure test the rail - if pressure is below spec we will change the pump. If it's on spec we will compression test cylinder 4 to make sure we don't have a valve problem & then replace the injector if the compression test does not reveal a problem. Don't do anything further at this point. I'm hoping we are in the clear.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
If the problem returns we will pressure test the rail - if pressure is below spec we will change the pump. If it's on spec we will compression test cylinder 4 to make sure we don't have a valve problem & then replace the injector if the compression test does not reveal a problem. Don't do anything further at this point. I'm hoping we are in the clear.

Thank you, Glyn, for all you've done. You've saved me much time and money! Hopefully I'm good to go for a good while.


BTW - now many miles did the car do without a misfire?
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 1, 2010 at 11:38 AM.


Overevving, doing burnouts etc is what does damage. Not the sort of trouble this is. Intermittent problems are always the worst e.g. why has the darn thing not misfired for 400 miles??
The transmission is usually the first to show signs of abuse by driving. Endless high torque gear changes will usually damage the first to second one way clutch & jerk badly when cold. Transmission fluid will smell burnt & the filter will be full of clutch plate material. Transmissions also get noisy.
I also bought a batch of platinums, I'll be resealing the covers (both driver and passenger) and changing the plugs, along with air filters.
Hopefully this will help!

What year is that car? - C240's are mechanically tough throughout. Very early ones just had all the typical non powertrain problems. The powertrain is from proven earlier models.
I got the hoses in. Spark plugs are a huge pain near the firewall, so limited room! I feel sorry for the c55 guys!
I thought about getting the car to run okay for a few miles and shove it over to carmax, but I've already put in new brakes, headliner, done the service, etc.
So, how much do you guys pay for an oil change including a filter?
Removed all plugs, I'll be putting in new ones tomorrow morning. Resealed both driver side and passenger side recirculating covers.
Driver side's cover has two hoses. Both cracked upon removal, so I bought replacements.
One fit just fine, the other, though, seems to be the wrong part. My parts guy says there are only four hoses that have to deal with recirculating the oil. One on the passenger side, two on the driver side, and one in the back that doesn't touch the covers.
The one I got does not have a junction, but the one that is on my car at the moment does. Just to confirm, I need the first hose picture, correct? The second one is currently sitting on my desk.

Thanks!

The rear plugs can be a PITA to change. You should try a V12 with 24 plugs - the mechanics all run away at my dealership!



