Javvy

Hi Guys,

So mine is a 2007 C280 4matic when I bought it it had 41K miles on it, got it throughly inspected at the dealership paid $125 and it came out all clean and I had mentioned this issue that I am about to describe and they said it was all fine. Currently I am at 48K miles and close to running out of factory warrenty and need to get this looked at ASAP if at all any thing is wrong and get it fixed under warrenty.

Symptom:
After I drive for a couple of miles and I stop at a red light and when I am about to take off and accelerate normally trying to gain speed and press the accelerator pedal smoothly I will get a sudden afterkick after a couple of seconds, now this afterkick is ocassional and does not occur all the time. This is my first 4matic, so is this normal?? I mean I feel it coming from the rear differential as if some thing suddenly engages and give me this kick
I am calling the dealership and getting this looked at but would need you peeps experience and insight......the only problem is that it is occassional nothing to do with warming up or any thing......today it happned after I drove 30 miles and as I was accelerating from the light felt this huge afterkick and todays afterkick was the worst that I have felt.

I feel definately there is something funny going on in the rear differential........use to feel this kind of afterkicks from my dying tranny in my old acura whihc was at 220kmiles.......

Please help.
Javvy

pcy

If I were you, I would buy the trans fluid dip stick and check the fluid level at the correct temperature. Low fluid can cause those symptoms.

Another thought, have you tried to RESETting the throttle?

Javvy

How do I reset the throttle???..Plus mine came with the dip stick I am going to check the fluid level right now and will report back.........but woudn't the dealerhsip have checked it when I took it to them for a through inspection???

Javvy

my bad, I don't have a transmission dip stick, will pick one up today......and I guess mine is a 722.6 tranny, does any one know what the part number is for this.......

zerocover

I very rarely get an afterkick. Yours seems worse because I don't get it while accelerating from a light.

For me I it will happen if I'm heading up a steep hill with alot of gas, if I take my foot off the gas to coast then push the pedal back down to continue accelerating I can get a nasty afterkick. I'd say it happens maybe 25% of the time in that situation. Its almost as though the car wound up while coasting and snapped back when I pushed the gas.

Other then that I do occasionally get rough down shifts into first, like if I coast to a light, but thats not so bad.


EDIT: 20 people viewing this thread makes me think its pretty common.

jcnash

I have the exact same symptoms...but only in the winter when its like -20C or colder and when during the first few stop-starts in the day (when the engine is still cold). Still haven't got it resolved, but I'm pretty sure its the transmission fluid that needs to be changed.

Dont have this issue now in the summer

pcy

Their 'thorough inspection' may have been a drive around the block. They have no vested interest in taking time to find the root cause of the problem. I wouldn't put the life of my transmission in the faith that the dealership folks taking time to find the root cause. It's your car and you would have to get to the bottom of this.

As I mentioned earlier, the trans fluid must be checked at the right temp. You can get a infrared thermometer at harbor freight for around $25.

Javvy

thankx pcy, I am going to the delarship tomorrow and have also ordered a dipstick tool. Will nail them to the roof and ask for a detailed analysis..........I am good at complaining & arguing, or else I will call Mercedes customer service directly and get this resolved

Javvy

WOW 262 views and only 3 people replied....this must be a common symptom then.........

04mbc230

Yup, I have this on my c230. Mine occurs when I slow down to a stop then pick up again and just before the forward motion, I get a kickback as if the enginee isn't engage or gears isn't in. I have an automatic by the way.

I had this on a few occassion. I even had my car tuned recently and it still has this problem.

So you are not alone on this.

pcy

That's a classic symptom of low on transmission fluid.

04mbc230

Really? I thought it has something to do with that.

So how do I check the levels and where is this located at? Since I am at it, should I consider doing a transmission flush and put in new fluids? My car is at about 89500 miles right now. I got this recently and have no clue if the previous owners did this work or not. I did bring it into the dealership to do a Service A recently though, they didn't mention about this issue.

As I said earlier, I did get the afterkick after the Service A. Actually, it was like this before and after Service A.

Any recommendations?

Glyn M Ruck

This problem can be other things as well.

The most common is catching out the lock up clutches on the torque converter - ie braking or accelerating hard just as they are achieving lock up - resulting in a jolt. Some of this can be induced by clumsy driving & is normal. If the condition is chronic I recommend having the tranny software reflashed.

Any driveline play or excessive lash in the diff/s can also aggravate the condition. Check proshaft flex disc condition & look for cracks. All differentials have some lash (in this case you just have to drive carefully or rebuild them with less lash which is not practical). Make sure all engine, transmission & sub frame mountings are in good condition.

As recommended above - check fluid level. Low level can cause erratic TC, Lock up clutch & valve body operation.

Javvy

Thank you Glyn, you are more knowledgeable in this regard and I totally respect your advise..........this is what happened today morning and I type this as I am sitting at the dealership......... felt a couple of hard kicks after driving about 25miles(I drive is "C" mode and not the "S" mode) and then the tranny got stuck in second gear (I guess since I drive in "C" mode) and would not change, it would rev up to 4000rpm and the tranny just would not budge, drove back 20 miles back to the dealer @40mph with temp slightely above 80deg..........my question is what could be wrong??? I mean this dealership did a through inspection and cleared it as everything OK.......do you think they messed up and did not check the tranny fluid level with a dipstick??? I am at 48400miles, is there serious damage to my tranny alreday done??? if the tranny has blown will the warrenty cover me??? ..............man I am so stressed out..........WTF............

People please chim in and give me your advise/suggesstion/experience...........

Thanks
Javvy

04mbc230

Can you check one thing. See if your radiator has been changed out yet? See if it's a chrimp or wavy? If you have wavy and it says behr, then you are good. If it says valeo then.. um... best of luck and probably glyco had made it into your tranny, resulting to the other post that cost that guy $6000 min.

Javvy

thankx 04mbc..........after about 3hrs I got my car back with everything covered under warrenty, they explained that there is some kind of electronic plate that was not getting signals from the sensor and thats why the tranny was stuck in 2nd gear, here is a list of parts they replaced, may be looking at this list some one with more experience can chime in.........

140-270-11-61 Electrics KI (qty 1)
140-991-00-55 Lock Pin (qty 1)
203-540-02-53 Pilot Bushing (qty 1)
001-989-69-03-10 Transmission (qty 5) I guess this is tranny fluid..........

so I dont need to do the tranny service and can wait for some more time before I do the complete drop pan replace filter service.

Any thoughts what must be going on here..........
Net charge was $0.00.......Total labor time 1hour......but am worried if there was any damage to the tranny done.......

I hope this helps other folks aa well.........

I car now drive excellent no more hesitation nor after kicks..........

Thankx all
Javvy

Glyn M Ruck

Your car is way after the Valeo radiator problem - You will have a Behr radiator.

The car has gone into "limp mode" which I explained recently in laneshift's thread.

Edit - sorry - I missed your latest post - good you got it sorted. The good old pilot bushing issue. That part has been upgraded a number of times. I keep a spare - It messes with the electrohydraulic unit in the tranny & the TCU

Pleased it's fixed & don't worry. It's minor!!!!! Your tranny will be fine.

OneOfaKindTrini

Aright so 48k miles on a 07, you aren't far behind me.

Javvy

dont worry "1ofakind"...........I am racking up those miles real fast.......I drive 102 miles daily for my commute.............heheheh............thankx all forthe post............

Glyn, you mentioned that you keep a spare "pilot bushing".is there a DIY on this so may be I can keep one too and do this myself since my car will be out of warrenty and I dont plan on buying any extended warrenty..........any thoughts..........

Thankx
Javvy

Glyn M Ruck

Javvy - it's the O rings on this POS that fail & oil wicks up the harness to the TCU under the passenger floor plate under the carpet. You can't buy O rings anymore but the genuine part is 7 bucks or aftermarket is $5 at rmeuropean.

C230 Sports Coup has a good writeup on it's replacement in his transmission thread.

It's an easy but slightly messy job.



Item 115 in this diagram



Here is install university method:

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/...ans_oring.html

Glyn M Ruck

A better pic

Glyn M Ruck

AND - here is a nice shot from my archive that even shows the part number. Benz have changed the O ring material many times but it still gives crap on the 722.6 transmission. Only less often

Fortunately a cheap job unless the TCU gets full of oil. Then it quickly gets expensive so keep an eye on it or it means a new TCU.

Edit: It's good that you have it recorded under warranty - now if your TCU ever gives trouble you can go back & shout at Benz that one cheap part caused the failure of one very expensive one. They know the issue!

pcy

Here is the picture looking in to that connector (the small bolt in the middle, that's what needs to be removed to replace the connector).

Glyn M Ruck

Yup - see poking out of used unit above

Javvy

good info Glyn & pcy...thank you for the enlightenment.........I have ordered 2 OEM plugs........but my question is can this be replaced without draining the tranny oil.......i mean the dealer drained and filled 5 quarts..........and second is there a planel on the floor or by passenger side floor that can be removed and this accessed easily or a lift is the only way to access this plug.........

Thankx
Javvy.........