Bypassed the EIS so I don't have to replace it.
04-15-2014, 10:54 AM
#51
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2013 UFO
You can save yourself a couple hundred bucks but if that EIS is at the end of its lifespan, you will have to replace it sooner than later. Then it becomes the hassle and time not to mention being without a car again.
The other issue is when something else goes wrong and it requires a dealership, you will be SOL. They will be unwilling to work on that.
The other issue is when something else goes wrong and it requires a dealership, you will be SOL. They will be unwilling to work on that.
04-15-2014, 10:59 AM
#52
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2001 c240
Your point is valid. However, I never go to the dealership, especially with the car being a 2001 (obviously do not recommend this to anyone with a warranty or a newer model). I do 80% of the work on my car. and the other 20% my mechanic takes care of it. So i'll gladly take my chances. But everyone consider your situation individually.
04-15-2014, 11:05 AM
#53
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I don't think anyone on this board would approve of such fix. At that point, you aren't driving a Mercedes.
I do the majority of the work on my car (you name it, I'll do it), but when it comes down to electrical, a mechanic isn't the person I want. I turn to my technician who is versed much better.
I do the majority of the work on my car (you name it, I'll do it), but when it comes down to electrical, a mechanic isn't the person I want. I turn to my technician who is versed much better.
04-15-2014, 11:48 AM
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C240
I do agree that I would approve such fix. I don't have any trust anymore to the dealership too, as I already went to 3 dealers in 3 Cities here, in Yogyakarta, Semarang and in my hometown Surabaya, they have no appropriate solution to my problem. In fact I solved my ECU problems, against the dealers suggestion to change, my rearsam, frontsam, ECU, etc. One of the dealers even tried to repair and my car was in their workshop for 3 weeks, without any solution.
Luckily, I found a good technician, to assist me to repair it. Now I still have my remote doorlock problem, as well as my wiper on my windshield. I'm now learning how to solve those problems
Luckily, I found a good technician, to assist me to repair it. Now I still have my remote doorlock problem, as well as my wiper on my windshield. I'm now learning how to solve those problems
04-15-2014, 12:56 PM
#55
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2001 c240
I don't think anyone on this board would approve of such fix. At that point, you aren't driving a Mercedes.
I do the majority of the work on my car (you name it, I'll do it), but when it comes down to electrical, a mechanic isn't the person I want. I turn to my technician who is versed much better.
I do the majority of the work on my car (you name it, I'll do it), but when it comes down to electrical, a mechanic isn't the person I want. I turn to my technician who is versed much better.
I'm in no means advising this fix for the masses, nor am I assuming that I know how everyone on this forum would feel about this fix. But I can tell you this much, it definitely still is a Mercedes. Every electronic signal on the car responds, and when connected to the SDS, all of the signals including the DAS are read, respond, and function properly... I am just simply able to push a button to start my car.
You may not agree, and you're entitled to that opinion, but it doesn't make this "fix" any less viable, especially to those of us that would rather not get taken by the Dealerships ridiculous prices.
Last edited by rrglo; 04-15-2014 at 12:58 PM. Reason: typo
11-13-2014, 12:14 PM
#56
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w203
help
He just meant that the EIS can't be DIY is all, but as far as checking on the cheapest deal for those with Star capabilities, hey man good job savin that money.
My problem ended up being the steering wheel column or something, and having nothing to do with the EIS and key, however, since my Indy guy tried to bypass the EIS, and solder the mechanism that signals the key being accepted into permanent position, I'm pretty sure he was partially responsible for its demise.
And so I learned, and became resolved in my goal to learn enough about cars to save that money back in the future with DIYs.
Woot!
My problem ended up being the steering wheel column or something, and having nothing to do with the EIS and key, however, since my Indy guy tried to bypass the EIS, and solder the mechanism that signals the key being accepted into permanent position, I'm pretty sure he was partially responsible for its demise.
And so I learned, and became resolved in my goal to learn enough about cars to save that money back in the future with DIYs.
Woot!
hello I drive stops
nell'eis keys are disabled (7). how did you unlock elv?
and turn on the car?
I thank machine stops 500 meters from home
11-20-2014, 05:45 AM
#57
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w203
Like I said at the beginning, the steering wheel wasn't locking.
Since the steering wheel lock has to do with the EIS, it prevented the car from starting.
The steering wheel lock fixed the problem, unfortunately, not before I spent 2000 dollars on a new EIS, a new key, etc...
Since the steering wheel lock has to do with the EIS, it prevented the car from starting.
The steering wheel lock fixed the problem, unfortunately, not before I spent 2000 dollars on a new EIS, a new key, etc...
04-10-2017, 05:23 PM
#58
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99 E300
I'm having the same, intermittent issue on a 99 E300TD. For me, about once every maybe 10 starts, the car either doesn't crank at all (after waiting for the glow plug relay to do its thing, in my case), or once every maybe 100 starts, the starter will briefly engage, and then stop. Pulling the key out and attempting a re-start, on the 3rd, or 4th try, things work perfectly normally.
I'm assuming that this has something to do with the heating function inside the EIS?
As this is my beater "airport car" (I'm a pilot), I'm not interested in dumping a ton of $$$ into this. I DO, however, have 2 brand new (within the last 6 mo) keys. Otherwise, this car is in very, very nice shape, and incredibly low milage (just turned 90k).
All that said, to bypass the EIS, on an automatic, what's involved here? I'd have no problem fitting a "fancy" start button to the car and doing the wiring for it.
In my case, once you're into the "ON" position of the key, the glow plug relays are powered, and everything else is powered (or so it seems), so really, all I need to do is power the starter. (I believe that, since this is an OM606 motor, with the "electronically" controlled injection pump and fuel shutoff solenoid, that those are powered as well once in the "ON" position). Am I missing something?
Thoughts?
I'm assuming that this has something to do with the heating function inside the EIS?
As this is my beater "airport car" (I'm a pilot), I'm not interested in dumping a ton of $$$ into this. I DO, however, have 2 brand new (within the last 6 mo) keys. Otherwise, this car is in very, very nice shape, and incredibly low milage (just turned 90k).
All that said, to bypass the EIS, on an automatic, what's involved here? I'd have no problem fitting a "fancy" start button to the car and doing the wiring for it.
In my case, once you're into the "ON" position of the key, the glow plug relays are powered, and everything else is powered (or so it seems), so really, all I need to do is power the starter. (I believe that, since this is an OM606 motor, with the "electronically" controlled injection pump and fuel shutoff solenoid, that those are powered as well once in the "ON" position). Am I missing something?
Thoughts?
Just FYI:
You can bypass the ECU/EIS security check without compromising the security or safety of your car.
My 2001 C240, EIS was shot, and my car was stuck for weeks in a municipal garage. I had no response from any of the electrical. So I purchased the ECU, EIS, and steering lock from another car. All of the Electrical responded but the car would not crank or turn over. (My car is 6 speed manual and the ecu I purchased was from an automatic (the automatics need a "parked" signal in order for the fuel pump to come on and the starter to turn over)).
So my mechanic relayed the fuel pump to respond to the key held in the on position, and relayed the starter directly to the battery with a push button engagement. So yes, all I have to do is hold the key on and push the button. Everything responds, no CEL related to this new starting setup.
Long story short, if you're having issues with your car not responding due to EIS issues... save yourself a ton of money... ( new EIS and the recommended new key and green key coding, $900... add the mercedes labor and your total will be around $1500)... (a used ecu, eis, steering lock, and key about $300, and another $175-$250 for my mechanic, or do it yourself, and you're looking at less than $600).
It's possible!!!
You can bypass the ECU/EIS security check without compromising the security or safety of your car.
My 2001 C240, EIS was shot, and my car was stuck for weeks in a municipal garage. I had no response from any of the electrical. So I purchased the ECU, EIS, and steering lock from another car. All of the Electrical responded but the car would not crank or turn over. (My car is 6 speed manual and the ecu I purchased was from an automatic (the automatics need a "parked" signal in order for the fuel pump to come on and the starter to turn over)).
So my mechanic relayed the fuel pump to respond to the key held in the on position, and relayed the starter directly to the battery with a push button engagement. So yes, all I have to do is hold the key on and push the button. Everything responds, no CEL related to this new starting setup.
Long story short, if you're having issues with your car not responding due to EIS issues... save yourself a ton of money... ( new EIS and the recommended new key and green key coding, $900... add the mercedes labor and your total will be around $1500)... (a used ecu, eis, steering lock, and key about $300, and another $175-$250 for my mechanic, or do it yourself, and you're looking at less than $600).
It's possible!!!
04-10-2017, 05:57 PM
#59
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....about once every maybe 10 starts, the car either doesn't crank at all (after waiting for the glow plug relay to do its thing, in my case), or once every maybe 100 starts, the starter will briefly engage, and then stop. Pulling the key out and attempting a re-start, on the 3rd, or 4th try, things work perfectly normally.....
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
04-10-2017, 06:12 PM
#60
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99 E300
Would that be your first move also?
04-10-2017, 06:56 PM
#61
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01-23-2020, 10:11 PM
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2002 Mercedes S590
Key won’t turn
So my 2002 S500 has been acting up. In warm weather key turns right away m, in colder weather I’ve notice I had to leave key in for a few minutes for the steering column to come down and I can turn the key and start car. Recently it’s stopped working. Any ideas as to what it could be?
01-31-2020, 11:45 PM
#63
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just FYI:
You can bypass the ECU/EIS security check without compromising the security or safety of your car.
My 2001 C240, EIS was shot, and my car was stuck for weeks in a municipal garage. I had no response from any of the electrical. So I purchased the ECU, EIS, and steering lock from another car. All of the Electrical responded but the car would not crank or turn over. (My car is 6 speed manual and the ecu I purchased was from an automatic (the automatics need a "parked" signal in order for the fuel pump to come on and the starter to turn over)).
So my mechanic relayed the fuel pump to respond to the key held in the on position, and relayed the starter directly to the battery with a push button engagement. So yes, all I have to do is hold the key on and push the button. Everything responds, no CEL related to this new starting setup.
Long story short, if you're having issues with your car not responding due to EIS issues... save yourself a ton of money... ( new EIS and the recommended new key and green key coding, $900... add the mercedes labor and your total will be around $1500)... (a used ecu, eis, steering lock, and key about $300, and another $175-$250 for my mechanic, or do it yourself, and you're looking at less than $600).
It's possible!!!
You can bypass the ECU/EIS security check without compromising the security or safety of your car.
My 2001 C240, EIS was shot, and my car was stuck for weeks in a municipal garage. I had no response from any of the electrical. So I purchased the ECU, EIS, and steering lock from another car. All of the Electrical responded but the car would not crank or turn over. (My car is 6 speed manual and the ecu I purchased was from an automatic (the automatics need a "parked" signal in order for the fuel pump to come on and the starter to turn over)).
So my mechanic relayed the fuel pump to respond to the key held in the on position, and relayed the starter directly to the battery with a push button engagement. So yes, all I have to do is hold the key on and push the button. Everything responds, no CEL related to this new starting setup.
Long story short, if you're having issues with your car not responding due to EIS issues... save yourself a ton of money... ( new EIS and the recommended new key and green key coding, $900... add the mercedes labor and your total will be around $1500)... (a used ecu, eis, steering lock, and key about $300, and another $175-$250 for my mechanic, or do it yourself, and you're looking at less than $600).
It's possible!!!
03-08-2020, 02:06 PM
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02-08-2022, 02:28 AM
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2001 mercedes clk55 AMG and 2006 E50
K I have the 2002 c230, took it in cuz the AC blew hot air.
At the shop, the key won't turn in the ignition switch, but still unlocks the car.
Wipers stop working.
What my mechanic did, was run a connection between the ignition and the starter that bypasses the relay in the EIS, SO:
I would have to turn the key, and then hit a button to start the car. I don't mind it, because it saves having to worry about the damn relay in the EIS and replacing it and then worrying about keys if they have to be reprogrammed or replaced. Also it seems like a cool security feature for the car; anyway.
Problem is, once he wired it up, didn't work.
So I might have to just get the damn part after all.
I've got a few questions, but feel free to comment on any part of this in order to help me with this.
First, I saw the price of a key on here for 184 dollars, but after a trip to the dealership, they were asking, 334 or something close to it; I don't remember exactly. Why the huge change?
On the same token, I have seen the EIS switch for 400, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to find that deal.
Any idea how many hours it takes to replace the EIS? Do keys need replaced then?
Fudge, why did the wipers stop working? Lol.
The motor in the wipers is good, and the fuses are all good, the connections seem good. Maybe it is some relay or whatever, I don't know I'm just trying to learn all this. I just found the schematics for what the relays are finally and sent them to the mechanic to save him some time.
Anyway, noticed there was absolutely zero information on repairing an EIS, and since we attempted it and got close, thought I should put this out there, and then there is always the slim chance that I will get some feedback that could help in time.
Deadline, Tuesday the 24th. If that is missed, the 26th, and if that is missed, the 31st will really be a huge deal if I can't get my car before then.
He actually has it on the dolly now at the shop, and at some point, we might just have to take it to the dealership even, I just, honestly, ****, its just a lot of money is all.
At the shop, the key won't turn in the ignition switch, but still unlocks the car.
Wipers stop working.
What my mechanic did, was run a connection between the ignition and the starter that bypasses the relay in the EIS, SO:
I would have to turn the key, and then hit a button to start the car. I don't mind it, because it saves having to worry about the damn relay in the EIS and replacing it and then worrying about keys if they have to be reprogrammed or replaced. Also it seems like a cool security feature for the car; anyway.
Problem is, once he wired it up, didn't work.
So I might have to just get the damn part after all.
I've got a few questions, but feel free to comment on any part of this in order to help me with this.
First, I saw the price of a key on here for 184 dollars, but after a trip to the dealership, they were asking, 334 or something close to it; I don't remember exactly. Why the huge change?
On the same token, I have seen the EIS switch for 400, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to find that deal.
Any idea how many hours it takes to replace the EIS? Do keys need replaced then?
Fudge, why did the wipers stop working? Lol.
The motor in the wipers is good, and the fuses are all good, the connections seem good. Maybe it is some relay or whatever, I don't know I'm just trying to learn all this. I just found the schematics for what the relays are finally and sent them to the mechanic to save him some time.
Anyway, noticed there was absolutely zero information on repairing an EIS, and since we attempted it and got close, thought I should put this out there, and then there is always the slim chance that I will get some feedback that could help in time.
Deadline, Tuesday the 24th. If that is missed, the 26th, and if that is missed, the 31st will really be a huge deal if I can't get my car before then.
He actually has it on the dolly now at the shop, and at some point, we might just have to take it to the dealership even, I just, honestly, ****, its just a lot of money is all.
02-18-2022, 02:30 AM
#66
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2001 mercedes clk55 AMG and 2006 E50
Transmission drain plug blew out
K I have the 2002 c230, took it in cuz the AC blew hot air.
At the shop, the key won't turn in the ignition switch, but still unlocks the car.
Wipers stop working.
What my mechanic did, was run a connection between the ignition and the starter that bypasses the relay in the EIS, SO:
I would have to turn the key, and then hit a button to start the car. I don't mind it, because it saves having to worry about the damn relay in the EIS and replacing it and then worrying about keys if they have to be reprogrammed or replaced. Also it seems like a cool security feature for the car; anyway.
Problem is, once he wired it up, didn't work.
So I might have to just get the damn part after all.
I've got a few questions, but feel free to comment on any part of this in order to help me with this.
First, I saw the price of a key on here for 184 dollars, but after a trip to the dealership, they were asking, 334 or something close to it; I don't remember exactly. Why the huge change?
On the same token, I have seen the EIS switch for 400, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to find that deal.
Any idea how many hours it takes to replace the EIS? Do keys need replaced then?
Fudge, why did the wipers stop working? Lol.
The motor in the wipers is good, and the fuses are all good, the connections seem good. Maybe it is some relay or whatever, I don't know I'm just trying to learn all this. I just found the schematics for what the relays are finally and sent them to the mechanic to save him some time.
Anyway, noticed there was absolutely zero information on repairing an EIS, and since we attempted it and got close, thought I should put this out there, and then there is always the slim chance that I will get some feedback that could help in time.
Deadline, Tuesday the 24th. If that is missed, the 26th, and if that is missed, the 31st will really be a huge deal if I can't get my car before then.
He actually has it on the dolly now at the shop, and at some point, we might just have to take it to the dealership even, I just, honestly, ****, its just a lot of money is all.
At the shop, the key won't turn in the ignition switch, but still unlocks the car.
Wipers stop working.
What my mechanic did, was run a connection between the ignition and the starter that bypasses the relay in the EIS, SO:
I would have to turn the key, and then hit a button to start the car. I don't mind it, because it saves having to worry about the damn relay in the EIS and replacing it and then worrying about keys if they have to be reprogrammed or replaced. Also it seems like a cool security feature for the car; anyway.
Problem is, once he wired it up, didn't work.
So I might have to just get the damn part after all.
I've got a few questions, but feel free to comment on any part of this in order to help me with this.
First, I saw the price of a key on here for 184 dollars, but after a trip to the dealership, they were asking, 334 or something close to it; I don't remember exactly. Why the huge change?
On the same token, I have seen the EIS switch for 400, but I'm wondering if I'll be able to find that deal.
Any idea how many hours it takes to replace the EIS? Do keys need replaced then?
Fudge, why did the wipers stop working? Lol.
The motor in the wipers is good, and the fuses are all good, the connections seem good. Maybe it is some relay or whatever, I don't know I'm just trying to learn all this. I just found the schematics for what the relays are finally and sent them to the mechanic to save him some time.
Anyway, noticed there was absolutely zero information on repairing an EIS, and since we attempted it and got close, thought I should put this out there, and then there is always the slim chance that I will get some feedback that could help in time.
Deadline, Tuesday the 24th. If that is missed, the 26th, and if that is missed, the 31st will really be a huge deal if I can't get my car before then.
He actually has it on the dolly now at the shop, and at some point, we might just have to take it to the dealership even, I just, honestly, ****, its just a lot of money is all.
02-21-2022, 12:16 PM
#68
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2005 Mercedes c230 kompresser sport 2009 ML320 bluets
I did a similar fix on a ML 320
i have fixed an eis module in a ml 320 bluetec 2009 it’s a simple fix you have to know how to solder it’s pretty straightforward and simple you stick a screwdriver on the inside of the ring around the key slot then you spin it counter clockwise and pull the ring out the pull the module out un plug it from the back open up the plastic case and you will fined a cold solder not sure what color the plug was that comes loose it was white on the ML good luck !
