WSC230

I just got my brakes serviced a few weeks ago. Got the front rotors and pads replaced. The rear were left untouch because the tech said it was still ok. The car feels great and the brakes are awesome now but after a few days of driving it began to started sqeeking. What could be causing this? Could it just be a simple brake fluid add?

dynomite05

Did you use anti-squeak paste?

Piraya33

I agree on the anti-squeak paste. Apply it to the back of the pads and on the pins with the rubber boots on them. I just did mine myself and don't have any squeaking.

WSC230

Can the anti-squeak paste be apply even after the brake job is done? How do i apply it onto the back of the pads or do i need to take it apart?

dynomite05

You need to take it apart.

mleskovar

Pad lubrication was probably used when the new one's were installed but it's easy to look at and check. It's high temp grease (I prefer ceramic paste) between the pad backing plates and the calipers. Since you have new rotors and pads, did you do a pad break in cycle?

e1000

FYI adding brake fluid will not do anything for squeaking, and please don't open the top to your brake fluid resivoir

Glyn M Ruck

See the STOPTECH website. Do a proper pad break-in!

WSC230

The brake service was done by a reputable shop in san diego. The problem is i live in sacramento but i visit my girl in SD a few weeks ago and since i needed to replace my brakes i decided to drop the car off at this shop. I live 8-9 hrs away so bringing the car back to them is not my first option right now. When applying the paste can i get away with just applying it from the outside lol? Im not a mechanic so taking it apart will be out of the question

WSC230

can someone post the link to the break in cycle? i cant find it on stoptech. thanks.

WSC230

nevermind found it, i'll give it a try tomorrow.

dynomite05

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

slammer111

Not ever, even when replacing pads?

mleskovar

No, you have to get into the mechanism. I bet if you call the shop that did the work they'll tell you what grease they used. Also ask them if they broke in the pads. I can't imagine a shop today not lubricating pads. Try the break in procedure per the StopTech site and it may or may not help.....it's something that should be done first thing with new pads. One check is to remove tire, rotate disc, and see if there's an outline(s) of a pad anywhere on the face of the disc. If there is, the pad break in was not done, or done wrong.

mleskovar

No, unless there's a leak , or you're replacing the brake fluid. When you replace pads the fluid is pushed back into the reservoir as you push the caliper pistons back in. If you 'top off' the brake fluid as the pads wear it will come spurting out of the vent hole on the reservoir cap as the piston goes in and remove paint unless immediately removed/neutralized.

WSC230

ok so i just got back from doing the break in method. There was still a lot of cars out tonight so i didnt really get to accelerate to 60mph instead i did about 40-45mph then brake down to 15-10 then repeat about 10 times. I drove for a bit to let it cool off then repeat again since stoptech recommend u doing it twice. I went about the same speed as the first time. Driving home i can still hear a lil squeak when i brake but its not as loud as it was before. Is it safe for me to try it again tomorrow and maybe i can get it to 60mph or should i just wait a couple of days first to see if the squeaking continues?

mleskovar

One of the important steps for pad break in is NOT to hold the car at a stop during the process when the pads are hot. Use your parking brake if you need to stop for more than a few seconds. Did you look at your discs to see if you had any pad material transfer outlined in one spot? Speed doesn't matter as much as getting them hot....real hot, then letting them cool without pressure of the pads on the discs. More and quicker stops from slower speeds works too but it's harder to do considering traffic.

pcy

part of the reason for break squeal is the rubbing between the metal pieces (back of the pads rubbing against the piston, clips rubbing against the pads and the caliper/mount) when brakes are applied. That noise won't go away by doing what you are doing (as illustrated above). You will have to remove the wheel and apply high temp brake grease to the metallic parts I described above).

Glyn M Ruck

Not necessarily so - frequently brake squeal is caused by the friction material making contact with the rotor/disc. Some friction materials will always squeal. Genuine Benz pads will not if bedded. Some high performance pads will always squeal until at operating temperature.

It is certainly possible that the brake shop did not apply anti squeal paste to the anti rattle shims et al but if they are half decent they should have.

WSC230

So i drove the car to work this morning and didnt notice any squeak after doing the break in method yesterday. It could be because it was still early in the morning so its cold out but i should find out later on today after work.

WSC230

Ok so i just got home from work. The brakes still squeaks but not as bad as it was before. It only squeaks when im braking coming to a complete stop and 4 out of 10 trys it will squeaks so its not as bad as before. Im gonna try to take it out tonight again for another break in and see if that helps. One question about the brake paste, do i need to disassemble the whole front brakes to apply the paste, or can i just take both wheels off and apply the paste behind the brake pads?

Piraya33

I would not recommend just pulling the wheel off and adding paste without taking the brake pads off. The best thing to do would be to take the pads back off, apply paste to the rear of the pads where it contacts the caliper, paste the sliding pins, and put it back together. I'm not sure how the c230 brakes are, but on my C32 I don't have to remove the whole caliper to get the pads off. There is two pins that can be punched out that hold a clip. When you remove the pins, the clip comes off and you can remove the brake pads by taking a flathead screwdriver and wedging it between the pad and the rotor in order to release the tension from the caliper. Once the tension is gone, you can pull the pad out, apply the paste to the back of it and reassemble everything. It's a pretty easy process, just a little time consuming and dirty. Good luck.

Glyn M Ruck

Can you please tell me why you don't get the dealer or brake shop that did the work to sort this out. If it's a wrong pad issue or a ceramic paste issue - Tell them to fix it. You paid for the job.

If proper break in does not fix it let them get their hands dirty.

Piraya33

He said the shop that did it is where his gf lives about 8-9hrs away so it's not feasible for him to take it back.

Glyn M Ruck

Sorry, I missed that important San Diego bit