Spark plug exploded. Need help!!!

NGK had a few weaknesses in the leaded fuel days but that is no longer an issue in road cars.

It would bring tears to your eyes or maybe such mirth that you would end up in tears.
It would sell far better than some introspective crap on yours truly.
Anybody have any additional advice?
Barring any noticeable problems should I get a compression test done? Is it possible for problems to arise a month from now, or is it a "now or never" sort of issue?
Thanks all for working through the issue with me.

The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I guess the consensus is that the root cause of the problem is over-tightening of the spark plugs to the extent the plugs' structure was weekend. No issue with the compatability of the plugs from Autohaus.
Enjoy your ride.
Anybody have any additional advice?
Barring any noticeable problems should I get a compression test done? Is it possible for problems to arise a month from now, or is it a "now or never" sort of issue?
Thanks all for working through the issue with me.




Being left on the side of the road, watching the blue light shorting from the metal surface
to the ceramic after < 1000 miles, was enough for me. Bosch sux!
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Sep 3, 2010 at 12:32 PM.

Bosch make some of the best plugs around. Try Champion if you want crap & some of the other dubious brands.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Sep 3, 2010 at 12:56 PM.
The shop manual says 23NM (17 ft-lbs) Most shop torque wrenches we have are for bigger stuff. Perhaps it is easy to overtorque when a 140ft-b wrench is set to 17! Observe the tightening angle. it is on the NGK plug box.
either would be ok
see this thread too.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...at-choose.html
as for resistor plugs. seems impossible to get aftermarket. If you are really **** on this get them from the dealer. at 3x the going rate...




In my case, it was like some kind of miracle, the plug was just resting
on a bracket for the bumper, after shooting out the motor
and bouncing off the inside of the hood.
I screwed it back in, albeit with some force since the thread were bunged, and drove off, lucky me as I also happened to have tools and a flashlight.
I was driving 55+ on a rural backroad when it happened with farm fields on both sides.
Never woulda found it.
In the end I had to use a tap and helicoil to repair the threads to
replace the plug.
Changed out my spark plugs the other day. Used a torque wrench set to 20nm, no diaelectic grease, and the OEM bosch plugs were pre-gapped, but I double checked them anyway.
Anyway, after changing them, I cranked the car, got no CEL or skipping or anything, and gently revved the engine to 2500 rpms. No problems. Turned the car off and went to bed.
Yesterday, I crank the car and drive a mile down the road to the nearest highway. As soon as I hit the acceleration ramp, I go WOT. a second later, I hear a sound like a shotgun, followed by a repeated knocking noise, and a squeeking noise that sounds like a belt slipping. CEL begins flashing and the car has almost no power (I'm guessing it is in limp mode). CEL is now solid and car stalls at idle. I barely made it the mile back home.
I open the hood and begin removing coilpacks. Turns out the middle spark plug on the driver's side bank has exploded. Maybe I cracked it when installing, but like I said, I used a torque wrench. Anyway, the plug threads are stuck in the cylinder and I recovered most of the plug internals and ceramic coating but I've got no idea if anything fell into the cylinder.
What the hell do I do now? It's 60 (interstate) miles to the nearest dealership. Is it safe to drive? Should I even start it? I'm afraid to even drive to autozone to have codes read.
Thanks
Proof
More proof





Glad it worked out well. Whew.....




