arto_wa

I have done it twice now and level the bottom of AT oil pan when servicing 722.902 in my car & go by 45C like the shop manual says.

The oil pan is made of sheet metal and not perfectly even but do the best you can with a level.

Taje Ware

Any chance of replacing only the output speed sensor? y3/8n3

Shack1

There are some vids, sent my out to have it repaired.

​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Auto-Tr...sAAOSwE7lbrbmt

This is who did the repair:
https://www.shop.modulerepairpro.com/main.sc

The vid is random

​​​​​

Herodotus

Thanks for the fabulous write up on the 722.9xx transmission service procedure.

I have a new-to-me 2008 CLS550 (vin: WDD DJ72X2 8A118404) which has the 722.904 transmission. When sent in for transmission service, the tech just drained the transmission and refilled, as indicated by the receipt showing 5 qts of fluid used. Armed with the docs above for reference, we discussed and he will redo the transmission service with the torque converter drain. Thanks again!

In the redo context I mentioned replacing the old transmission oil pan and overflow pipe with the newer bits as well. This replacement would change the fill height as the new overflow pipe is higher, and the fill temperature is different - 45C for the newer pan and pipe vs 35C for the older pan and pipe.

The notes in the PDF 'Oil pan and overflow tube modified' (BT27.10-P-0006-01W) state:
However, when calling MB for the parts, the MB parts folks do not show the modified transmission oil pan as a part associated with this vehicle's VIN. The current part numbers shown in the EPC system for this vehicle (CSL550) are:
o transmission oil pan - A 221 270 12 12
o overflow pipe - A 251 271 00 97 - same number as shown in PDF file '722.9 Transmission Service'
o filter - A 221 277 01 95

QUESTIONS:
1. Does anyone know if the new transmission oil pan is already on this vehicle? The EPC pan picture looks like it does not have a sloped edge, but the number for the overflow pipe is the same in EPC as in the PDF file '722.9 Transmission Service'. So, should the old pan (A 221 270 12 12) be switched out for a new pan and overflow pipe for this vehicle?
2. If this (A 221 270 12 12) is not the new transmission oil pan, does anyone have the MB part numbers for the new pan and overflow pipe? MB parts can not find the new pan and overflow pipe associated with this vehicle.

The pan and overflow pipe need to be correctly identified, as the pan and overflow pipe are matched, and as I understand it, have different heights and different fluid temperature requirements when refilling. In essence I need to know:
o is any reason not to update the pan and overflow pipe for this vehicle (CLS550)
o what are the part numbers for the newer updated pan and associated overflow pipe.

Thanks in advance ...

Shack1

Audi Junkie

Opie Oils is a great resource for comparative analysis.

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-717-mer...ion-fluid.aspx

See how there are various "non-MB" fluids recommended under different specs?

Dexron, Mercon V, Multi ATF, all unremarkable, but somehow get recommended, how can this be?

It's because they are all the same. Believe me, I know the differences, but the fluids change in service, they sheer and the friction modifiers wear out. So you get the same end product, and a lot of overlap of the performance characteristics.

How do you think MaxLife or Mobil 1 ATF get recommended for DOZENS of different specs? They are all the same thing, or the difference between them is meaningless. https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...2-ac162d889bd1

I hear, oh you are just trying to save money. No, products like Maxlife are way better then the older fluids for 5-speed AT 20 years ago. Some guys like the idea of paying $22/q for obsolete fluid..?

Not so much for the 226.9 ATF, I believe that's NAG2, and Valvoline approves against NAG1, the older spec.

Look at the Opie link, open the book spec you want and see those products? They are the same products recommended for OTHER premium Euro transmissons. The LT71141 was what I always went by to find alternative to VAG spec ATF, because it's the all same for different makes.

Want a good example? The 8-speed in my Audi was used by MB for years also. Look up the OE specs and you get a VAG 000 XXX spec and a MB 226 whatever spec. Well, are they the same fluid or not? Are they interchangeable? Our "experts" say no. I say they are the same. Just like the PSF all comes back to Pentosin CHF 11S, all of these AT specs come back to Esso LT71141.

I don't have time to perfect my post at the moment, but interested people should look over the Opie link pr the Valvoline and ask themselves how does one fluid meet the specs of 40 different mfg? They are all the same. ATF +4 is the only different fluid, it's friction modified.

lnvonline

Hello guys,

My 2007 ML 350 is making some strange clicking noise after starting a cold (only) engine and goes right away. (keep in mind i have changed the fluid once because of the bad balance shaft replacement).
I decided to take the valve body off to take a peek if there's anything mechanically wrong. I'm placing everything back in and getting ready to replace the fluid.
HERE'S WHERE THE QUESTION IS:
The instructions call for 3 different temperature ranges when topping off, 35°C, 45°C or 90°C.
35° for "without additional transmission oil cooler and without chamfered pan"
45° for "without additional transmission oil cooler and with chamfered pan"
90° for "with additional transmission oil cooler"

What are they talking about? is the "additional" additional to the stock cooler? or is the "additional" is the actual stock cooler?

last time i topped it off at 45°.

thanks,

StevilKnievel

Anybody have a PN for the TC drain bolt and seal? I've searched google, a few different dealership parts sites and called my local dealership (they are absolutely useless) and cannot find the part listed anywhere. 2013 C300 4matic Sport WDDGF8AB1DR255971.

300SE1993

IIRC, I mentioned an Ebay seller earlier in this thread. Reach out to him, he can help you out.

Ryan.tim.j

This is a great post. I have been doing just the pan drain and refill. A quick question on refill with TC drain. If you get out 9 L, you put back 9 L, but the pan does not hold that much, does it go up into the TC? I am guessing it must.

C230 Sport Coup

Just an FYI- Here's a kit that will save you some time and money, with everything required to do a
trans service on a 7Gtronic 7 speed 722.9 transmission. Filter, Gasket, Bolts, Drain plugs plural, guide tube, ATF Fill tool, and more.
Ultimate OEM Genuine Mercedes 7 speed Automatic Transmission Service Kit 722.9

Be sure to include your year model and VIN with the order, as there are 2 filters (one for early 722.9 and one for later) and 2 different color guide tubes, green indicates the newer "Low Friction" 7Gtronic PLUS trans used from ~2010 - on.

Here's a cool video on the PLUS...

StevilKnievel

I thought the new tube is white. It is 15mm longer and used in conjunction with the chamfered pan and requires the FE (blue) fluid.

C230 Sport Coup

Around 2010 -2011 on, they went to an updated version of the 7Gtronic called the 7GtronicPlus.
The difference is is it's some percentage points more efficient, which results in better gas mileage
and uses a different filter, green guide tube + the new blue ATF134FE fluid.
It uses the 235.15 spec blue trans fluid, and the green pipe is sort of a code to
indicate the updated fluid, and filter. It's also referred to as the Low Friction A89 option, for
the Mercedes option code listed on the options list, ie A89.
The longer white tube went into use much earlier on the 7Gtronic (non-plus).
You're confusing 2 different updates.

You won't do any damage using the white tube on a later transmission, the only difference is the color, but you might confuse a mechanic into putting the wrong fluid, if they even know the difference.

FYI- there isn't to my knowledge an aftermarket 'low friction' filter equivalent and conversations I've had with transmission supply houses outside of Mercedes had no idea what I was talking about, and only carry the old pn 2212770195 or 2212770200 and have no equivalent for 2222772000.
So quite likely if you have a non MB specific shop do the work, you will get the wrong parts and fluid on a 7Gtronic PLUS which is a good reason to DIY.

DesmoFab

Hello all,

I have done, for the first time, the gearbox oil bleed of my clk 320 cdi 7g last week but I have one quesiton.

I have filled approximatively 10 liters of oil but when I start the car to reach 45° there is no a drop of oil leaking. I tried to push oil but the gearbox seems to be full.

Have you ever seen that ?

Thank you.

StevilKnievel

Put more fluid in and cap it quickly, don't tighten it all the way, just a few turns. Start the car, run through the gears, including reverse. Once temp is reached shut off engine, remove plug and re-cap when fluid doesn't flow freely anymore. Being at the EXACT temp is pretty important.

DesmoFab

I checked the temperature via an autocom, my issue can be explained be to much air into the sump ?

StevilKnievel

I'm guessing you didnt put enough in to get it it overflow. I drained 9.5L and had to use 11L to get it to overflow. Have you driven it yet?

DesmoFab

Unfortunately I have not driven it yet.




To push the oil I used two kind of procedure :


With an electric pump


By creating an over pressure system with an air compressor into the oil can. The can finally exploded but I didn't got my overflow...

StevilKnievel

You should never use a compressor unless you have an actual fluid transfer machine. So let me see if I understand correctly. You drained the fluid, did you remove the stand tube and then drop the pan? Assuming you did do that, you then began pumping new fluid in with an electric pump and at some point fluid was no longer flowing into the pan so you used a compressor to force more fluid in until the pressure built up to the point that the bottle exploded?

DesmoFab

Not exactly, in fact I followed that how-to
I used the compressor after I saw that nothing drains out.

If I remove the drain plug with a cold engine oil is draining.

I think I have to the test the car before going crazy with that issue

StevilKnievel

The transmission has ventilation tubes on the top side. If youre attempting to pump fluid in and it won't flow to the point it burst the bottle you've either got a blockage in your rig somewhere or you have a blockage at the fill hole. Because you should at least be able to pump air through it even if the fluid doesn't flow. Did you do the high pressure line flush? Because it could possibly be kinked as well not allowing flow. Lastly, do you jave the proper adapter to screw into the bottom of the pan?

DesmoFab

For sure I used the proper adapter.

If I make a quick summary of my actions :
- bleed the oil via the drain plug
- remove the pan
- remove the tube which go to the coolant radiator
- rinse convertor and the gearbox
- fit the new filter and pan
- push the new oil
- start the engine, play with the shift and wait to reach 45°
- open the drain plug nothin happened
- tried to push oil using electric pump and compressor ( without too much pressure)
- still no oil drains at 45°

StevilKnievel

Was the fluid pouring out after you first refilled it? And you had no problem pumping it in before you closed the drain and started it?

DesmoFab

Yes when I stoped the compressor or the pump and I opened the valve the oil went back to the bottle...
The pump is very small (12v) and I had no issue to fillfull the gearbox. I closed the drain when the pump didn't do his job anymore.

StevilKnievel

Your filter could be improperly seated, blocking the hole. I'd drain it again and take it apart to check everything. It's expensive but you should be able to pump fluid in with ease even when already filled.