Problems after installing new wheels!!!! =/

did i actually damage something by doing this? it sounds like nails on a chalk board when i drive the car =// i am planning to order the new shorter bolts from MB tomorrow if anyone could please help i would appreciate it !!!
(after putting the original wheels back on the problem still wasnt fixed now the car somewhat hesitates to move but it goes, the rears feel like their holding the car back)
Last edited by kmancoupe230; Sep 19, 2010 at 07:21 PM.
I changed to 19's and didn't even see my rims came with shorter bolts for the rear



Are you sure those 17" are OEM MB rims? More specifically,... OEM MB rims for your W203/CL203 C-class? If not, you may need custom lug bolts if you're trying to put OEM MB 17" from a non-compatible MB class/generation onto a W203/CL203 C-class.

Beside your shank length, I bet your ball-seat radius are wrong too,... so don't be surprise if one day you're driving along,.. and your wheels comes off!

You can start by telling us which "OEM MB" 17" wheels you got. From which car it came off of originally. Photos would be nice.
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i also picked up 1.1' long bolts at my local mb dealer
Are your 17" rims:
17"x7.5 ET37 Part# B6-647-1511 A203-401-18-02
OR
17"x8.5 ET34 Part# B6-647-1515 A203-401-24-02
Something isn't right here. The above 17" OEM MB wheels should fit perfectly without any issues using stock OEM MB lug bolts for W203/CL203.
Do you have photos of your 16" that was on the car? Are you sure they're OEM MB rims? Are you sure your bolts are OEM stock?
First of all, you yanks gotta stop talking about metric bolts in imperial measurements! What's this 1.1" long bolt???
Our Mercedes C-class (W203/CL203) have two bolt sizes:
-long- M12x1.5 thread, R12 ball seat, 39.9 mm shank, 17 mm Hex (for OEM alloy wheels)
-short- M12x1.5 thread, R12 ball seat, 20.6 mm shank (for winter "steelies")
The "long" bolts (for OEM alloy wheels) you need are 39.9mm shank.
The 1.1" long bolt you're talking about better not be the short bolt for winter steelies! 20.6 mm shank + ball seat + hex give it a total length of about 1.1"
Bottom line,... with lug bolts sitting in ball seat of rim,... examine the thread part of lug bolts that go through rims to the hub side. Make sure there are about 6 full rotation of threads on the lug bolt. That's the only thing holding the wheels to your car!


I don't understand what's going on here
Replicas passed off as OE?
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Sep 21, 2010 at 10:19 AM.
The OEM Mercedes W203/CL203 -long- bolt is the one you should be using.
-long- M12x1.5 thread, R12 ball seat, 39.9 mm shank, 17 mm Hex (for OEM alloy wheels)
I'm a bit confused with "it seems as though the bolts the spares use would clear". You have spares,... plural? Or are you talking about your one spare wheel in your trunk? Which came with 5 lug bolts which are shorter than 39.9mm shank.
What's the shank length of the bolts the spare uses? Shank length of lug bolts are measured from base of ball seat to end of threaded end.
The OEM MB 17" rim you described should fit without issue using OEM Mercedes W203/CL203 -long- bolt with 39.9mm shank. Unless,... someone tried drilled out those rims to re-seat it. Or someone changed your hub or rotors to thinner non-OEM specs. Either that or your original 16" rims were not OEM MB for W203/CL203 (maybe aftermarket) and used longer bolts (longer than 39.9 shank).
What's the shank length of the lug bolts that you first used to install the 17"?
my 2cents
Javvy
either the bolts used isn't oem or the wheel hub has been shaved for maybe the use of spacers/adapters if they were bought from VW/Audi crowd.
The spare tire lug bolts (hollow hex head) should be way too short. Spare tire lug bolts have 20.6 mm shank. Spare tire is about 4-5mm thick where lug bolt seat are. Which means, on spare tire, the spare tire lug bolt should protrude about 16 mm
-long- M12x1.5 thread, R12 ball seat, 39.9 mm shank, 17 mm Hex (for OEM alloy wheels)
-short- M12x1.5 thread, R12 ball seat, 20.6 mm shank (for winter "steelies")
Kmancoupe230 already stated his rims are 2cm deep where lug bolt seat are. Thus nothing should protrude when using the spare tire lug bolts (20.6mm shank).
Javvy stated that with lug bolts in rim lug bolts protrude 6-7 threads (on hubside). It should actually protrude about 9-10 threads. And I wouldn't count the first one on the end of the bolt since that's smaller and only used to guide it into the hub. A few of these threads don't really contact the hub since the opening at the hub has a little cone shape to help guide the bolt in.
The true test is how many full rotation of the lug bolt does it take to put the wheel on at the specified torque. It should talk 6 full rotation of the lug bolts. If only 6-7 thread protrude, then it'll only take 3 full rotation and that's way too little. This is the only thing holding the wheels to the car!
With Lug bolts in wheels lug bolts should protrude about 16-17mm (hub side). Add that to the thickness of rim at lug bolts seats and that's the shank size you should have.




Also,the 16s have a big like " spacer" attached to the rims,these 19s will be pretty much sitting up against the brake housing,is this an issue?




Best not to mess with it. Fitments on these cars can be very tricky. Don't forget the centering rings if needed. No it's not ok to be against the caliper.
Best not to mess with it. Fitments on these cars can be very tricky. Don't forget the centering rings if needed. No it's not ok to be against the caliper.
OK,I have just discovered the problem the wheels I have use a 14ml bolt,whereas mine are 12ml..so my question is..is the ball of the bolt assuming I can find some shorter ones,enough to hold it centred? Or can I not use these wheels at all?
sorry for the confusion,and I appreciate the responses
Last edited by Envy888ed; May 13, 2022 at 12:21 AM.






