C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe
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LEAK FROM TRANSMISSION OIL PAN...IS IT MY TRANSMISSION????

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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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LEAK FROM TRANSMISSION OIL PAN...IS IT MY TRANSMISSION????

I noticed a leak coming from the connecting edges of the transmission oil pan yesterday at my local repair shop. The guy told me it is probably "just" the transmission gasket and filter that needs to be replaced. Are these C230 M271 engine fitted with a transmission gasket ? I can't seem to find it on all the diagram I am looking at. ANy part numbers etc.? I am also due for a transmission flush. Any advice on how to best proceed?

Thanx to all that reply

Yangoub
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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I would reccomend a shop to do the flush as they have the equipment to do a flush versus a DIY drain and refill. The transmission filter kit comes with a new gasket by the way.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Thanx for your reply. Is it ok to go to someone other than the stealership? I am thinking (like it has been already suggested in some of the threads here already) about getting the recommended Benz fluids and having an independent shop do it.

yangoub
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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Just make sure you use the approved fluid. You can see it all on C230 Sport Coup's thread & splinters thread etc. Whoever does it needs a Benz 722.6 dipstick & a thermometer.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:10 PM
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In the case of stealth leaks I degrease the area, drive the car a bit and then dust the area with baby powder. Leaks that you can't see yet unaided show up pretty clearly. It's an old trick I learned from having all sorts of Italian cars.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 02:19 PM
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I have spoken to my mechanic (indy guy) and he says that flushing the transmission fluid is never to be done on this car supposedly (true or false?). He suggests that I just change the gasket and filter and add more fluid (How do you know how much to add then since some has been leaking?). I called mercedes earlier and they gave me a price quote on flushing the transmission indicating to me that it is something they do. Needless to say that I am now confused. Please help.

Thanx

yangoub
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 02:50 PM
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A common failure/leak point is the electric "plug" accessed behind a heat shield beneath the transmission on the passenger side. About $10 part. Fix the leak, don't just keep adding fluid. If it's the plug the leak can do more damage as the fluid finds its' way to the TCU.
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 01:46 PM
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Hey Thanx for your input mleskovar. Is this plug easy to access? Can it be seen from looking up underneath the car?
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by yangoub
Hey Thanx for your input mleskovar. Is this plug easy to access? Can it be seen from looking up underneath the car?
You seem to have the 722.6 automatic transmission and the drain plug is at the lowest part of the carter (pan). It will be obvious and easy to see, similar to a motor oil plug.

Your mechanic does not seem to be up to date with Mercedes parts and procedures, which may be a bad choice to have things done. The lifetime lasting fluids are not and the ATF should be changed every 39,000 miles -flushing procedure-, requiring either the know-how from "stickies" or the pro equipment and SDS. There is quite a bit of illustrated and well made descriptions of this procedures in this forum.

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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:31 AM
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The "plug" referenced above in post #7 is actually a 13-pin connector. Also known as "Pilot bushing", "transmission adapter plug". Here is the picture of the connector/pilot bushing. The part is around $9 at the MB dealer and it should take about 15 minutes to replace - first twist the cap counter-clockwise, pull out the connector and then use approproate socket (8mm or 9mm) and remove the bushing (only one screw in the middle that holds the bushing in place).
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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Now that's what I am talking about. Thank you guys as to the mechanic, I don't really go to him anymore. I am gonna check all these out.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by yangoub
Now that's what I am talking about. Thank you guys as to the mechanic, I don't really go to him anymore. I am gonna check all these out.
Actually it's the Orings that go bad.
Checkout installuniversity.com for a how to on replacing it.

But take it from someone thats done it.
Pay close attention to the orientation of the plug.
Getting the new one lined, and not bending any pins is crucial.
Bending one pin, and arrrrgh!
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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I have been searching and cannot locate the answer to this. I am replacing my connector but I am wondering if I should have oil inside that new connector piece once it is installed. To me, it looks like it is not designed to completely keep oil from seeping into the inside of the socket when it is in place, which means that the male connector that goes inside the spacer piece will be "wet" with oil.

I know that when I put the male piece into the new spacer/connector piece and pulled it out again, the bottom of that male socket was drenched with oil. But part of me thinks it really should be dry in the bottom of that socket and that something else is wrong.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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Umm...well oil came pouring out when I pulled mine.
Hard to say if it would get wet in the install process.
Make sure you didn't bung up the orings when you pushed it in.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
A common failure/leak point is the electric "plug" accessed behind a heat shield beneath the transmission on the passenger side. About $10 part. Fix the leak, don't just keep adding fluid. If it's the plug the leak can do more damage as the fluid finds its' way to the TCU.

he said his pan was leaking not the plug. When changing out the gasket please clean the pan very very clean even use a brake fluid cleaner. On the pan there are 4 tabs around it when putting the new gasket in make sure all the tabs line up. I didn't know about this thats why i had to redo the job yesterday. I have no more leaks.. Please make sure the bolts on the pan are not over torqued!! the pan gasket doesn't like to be torqued to tightly! 71 INCH foot pounds 8 NM is what it should be. I changed out that plug as well but mine wasn't leaking. Mine was leaking pretty good around the gasket.

I went to napa and bought the kit filter and gasket.. Looking at the gasket vs mercedes OEM one i just bought. Mercedes fits more snug and stopped the leaking.. Now that ive had so many issues with NON mercedes parts i will stop buying cheap *** parts.

As someone stated installuniversity.com is a great place for information.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by treiberg
... it really should be dry in the bottom of that socket and that something else is wrong.
Yes, it should be dry, . If you pull the 'plug' with the car on a flat surface you will release some fluid and putting the new bushing back in without getting oil inside will be hard. I jacked up the front of the car to keep the fluid away from the opening (as someone else recommended as well) and still lost fluid. Next time I will drain the trans sump to make it easier and reduce the mess.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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Im going to be buying this when i get some extra cash just to have in my garage.. I have a 20% off coupon so its only gonna be around 399

http://www.harborfreight.com/transmi...ger-93019.html
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by yangoub
I have spoken to my mechanic (indy guy) and he says that flushing the transmission fluid is never to be done on this car supposedly (true or false?). He suggests that I just change the gasket and filter and add more fluid (How do you know how much to add then since some has been leaking?). I called mercedes earlier and they gave me a price quote on flushing the transmission indicating to me that it is something they do. Needless to say that I am now confused. Please help.

Thanx

yangoub
There is your first problem, that's a bunch of BS. Your trans fluid/filter/etc should be changed every 39,000 miles, as per Mercedes Benz USA and worldwide.

I was also confused about this when I first purchased my C240 and was given mixed responses when asking about it at indy mechanics and this forum.

I was finally convinced when pcy and Glyn (well-respected members of these forums) and the service guy (that I don't personally know) at my local stealership confirmed that it must be done every 39,000 miles. I then proceeded to get this done and my baby now drives like she just came off the lot.

This may also be the reason that you are now having these issues, because proper maintenance on your transmission was not performed.

Best of luck in getting it sorted out.

Last edited by Crna Mechka; Nov 23, 2010 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mleskovar
Yes, it should be dry, . If you pull the 'plug' with the car on a flat surface you will release some fluid and putting the new bushing back in without getting oil inside will be hard. I jacked up the front of the car to keep the fluid away from the opening (as someone else recommended as well) and still lost fluid. Next time I will drain the trans sump to make it easier and reduce the mess.
Still trying to understand this...if I pull the coupler that has the white ring on it, it looks to me like I am staring into the inside of my transmission, which has fluid in it. But there are obviously some electronics in there, so are they wet all the time? Maybe the lower o-ring on the coupler isolates the electronics from the oil, but it just seems like I am stabbing this coupler (the part everyone is replacing) into an "oil wet" environment, and I don't see how anything stays dry. I probably just don't have the proper image in my head of the configuration.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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the two o-rings you see in the post # 10 (above) essentially prevent the trans oil getting past that bushing on to the trans connector. When those o-rings fail, trans oil gets on the pins and the connector.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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Yes, that makes sense now. The "wet" part is the section between the two o-rings, and the electronics should all be dry if the o-rings are doing their job.

The problem for me was that the fluid level was so high (even though front of car was on ramps) that it would pool in that area and really never give me an opportunity to get it dry. I had to drain about 1/2 a quart out to get the level well below the connector. Then I could dry things off and install the coupler without getting it all oily in the process.
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 08:11 PM
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Adapter plug

Originally Posted by yangoub
Hey Thanx for your input mleskovar. Is this plug easy to access? Can it be seen from looking up underneath the car?
I'm trying to check mine myself. I was told that a t30 would remove the shield to get to the plug. I want to spray it with electrical cleaner and see would that work.
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 08:20 PM
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Not sure of the correct size you’ll need but recommend keeping electrical cleaner out of the engine bay / aluminum.

Simple Green will dissolve the goop without etching whatever else it comes into contact with.
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by treiberg
I have been searching and cannot locate the answer to this. I am replacing my connector but I am wondering if I should have oil inside that new connector piece once it is installed. To me, it looks like it is not designed to completely keep oil from seeping into the inside of the socket when it is in place, which means that the male connector that goes inside the spacer piece will be "wet" with oil.

I know that when I put the male piece into the new spacer/connector piece and pulled it out again, the bottom of that male socket was drenched with oil. But part of me thinks it really should be dry in the bottom of that socket and that something else is wrong.
I'm having this same problem 😔. I have a new conductor plate and car still not shifting right. Want to disconnect the plug and spray with electrical cleaner
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Avery850
I'm having this same problem 😔. I have a new conductor plate and car still not shifting right. Want to disconnect the plug and spray with electrical cleaner
Check inside your TCU housing. If you ignore the conductor plate plug leak long enough, trans fluid will wick it's way upward into your TCU housing.
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