EPineda

I have a torn inner front right CV Boot and the grease is oozing out. So far, no noise yet so hopefully the assembly is still good. I ordered the boot kits from MB but needed assistance/information from our certified techs and experienced members on how to remove and disassemble the CV axle assembly so I could inspect and clean the bearings and cages, as well as replace the inner and outer boots and clamps and re-pack the joint. Not sure if this is true but I read I could use a pry bar to extract the CV axle from the differential. I'm also looking for any instruction how to separate the axle (outer and inner shafts?) to facilitate with the boots replacement. I have no problem disconnecting the suspension and brake components to do the work. Any help out there is highly appreciated.

pcy

Hi, I had the (drivers side) CV boot replaced on my 2004 C320 4Matic on Tuesday. I took my car to a CV joint experts. The mechanic removed the center nut on the hub, and then the nut on the lower ball joint, pulled the lower control arm. That separated the flange/hub from the axle. He just pulled out the outer CV joint. Then he used a fork looking tool and pushed the remaing part of the joint from the front differential.

Since joint wasn't making any noise, they just removed the torn boot, cleaned up the joint, repacked the grease, put the new boot. Entire job was done in about one hour and 15 minutes.

Here are the before and after pictures of the CV joint.

EPineda

I'm glad for you. Mine? I intend to do the work myself, budgetary constraint I guess. This is why I'm looking to get as much info as I possibly could. I think I could do the work, it's just that I've never done CV axles before. The Chilton book I have on the car does not provide much details on the process. Usually there is someone who has done the work before, with pictures and detail info. In addition, we have so many great members and MB master techs out there. Hopefully someone would provide a link or detailed info that I could use, as well as other members of this forum.

contact148

if you dont have a good set of tools dont try it

do you have 18mm wrenches

26mm deep socket

jack,stands

cv band tool

balljoint seperator (dont rip the boot!!!)

parts washer (can wash it other ways but PITA)

its 1 hour for an indy shop to remove the joint

I had mine both ends completly rebuilt removed and installed for around $300.00 canadian

EPineda

I finally found the time to do my inner and outer CV boots replaced. Very messy job but I'm glad I did it. I bought the original inner boot kit (PN 211-330-0185) and outer boot kit (PN 220-330-0185) from MB. Removing the CV axle from the car was straight forward job, using a 16" pry bar to pry it out from the differential. Once out, I realized the inner CV joint has 3 roller bearings mounted in a triangular pattern (my description may not be accurate) but I understand this is called 'tri-pot' CV joint design. To remove the outer CV joint, I used a soft copper head hammer to bang out on the outside housing (of the outer CV joint) while clamping the axle shaft on a vise with 2 pieces of wood strips. Once out, I was able to take out and cleaned the ball bearings and cages, repacked with MB CV joint grease, cleaned the whole axle shaft, installed new inner and outer boots and clamps, and repacked the inner CV joint with special MB grease (which was different from the outer CV grease). Strange, but the inner CV boot came with built-in metal bands with the boot pressed in between (instead of a boot clamp) at the large end designed to 'clamp on' securely to the inner CV housing but did not and would not clamp on at all no matter what I did. No idea why it would not fit. The local MB parts man said it is the correct part. To my frustration, I used a small ball hammer and a metal tool to bang the metal band end around (as if I was crimping it) to the inner CV housing. This method worked well. The grease would not seep out as the kit included a rubber seal between the boot and the inner CV housing. As an alternative, I was ready to remove and cut the metal bands and just use a taditional boot clamp. This would have worked, too. I guess MB is trying my make it hard for people to do this job themselves so they could sell more CV axles (my local MB service advisor said they would just have installed a new CV axle at $1100+ a pop plus labor). Anyway, I'm back on the road.

pcy

Epineda, excellent job!!! As you said, you've saved at least $1500.
Glad to hear your car is back on the road.

mlee1951

I am wondering why my 2004 C240 rear axle shaft is leaking grease when the car only has 38,000 miles on it. The car is not driven hard or aggressive....is this a common problem with this model??? Car is being fixed at the dealer that'll cost me over $1300....ouch!

samaritrey

where is the car located?

ZionXLion

Removed my right front axle today and dropped it off at a shop in Marietta Georgia.. Guy charged me $45 to do both inner and outer boot..

awbooth

I cant believe it. I cant find a replacement cv axle for my 2005 C240 4MATIC!!! EVERYONE IS SAYING BACK ORDERED....Gonna change the whole thing. Need to rip out the axle to replace the boots so might as well put in a new axle!

Boom vang

RM has them in stock

awbooth

thanks!
what I was looking for was the whole axle. any suggestions?

Boom vang

sorry did not read your post carefully, usually in any city there are jobbers/rebuilders that sell remanufactured shafts on an exchange basis, just inquire through parts places (usually independents that specialize in Euro cars and not the Autozone or Pep boys etc although they may have a listing), transmission shops etc. That is your best bet, buying a new shaft is VERY expensive ~ $850 and not recommended because you are paying for things that you don't need...you have the shaft already and what you usually only need is the new bearings, boots to be cleaned out and rebuilt

awbooth

ok, cool. thanks for ur help

awbooth

ok. Decided to replace the entire front drive cv axle on my 2005 c240 4matic opposed to changing just the boot. I need help with how to get the axle out. It looks like there is only a lower ball joint as the top part of the connection is bolted to the strut? Is there an upper ball joint that needs to be seperated? Looks like I need to disconnect the tie rod end to the cross member? Any help would be great. You tube has nothing on this, surprisingly so.... you know how it works, you start a project without the proper instructions and than the wife looks at you and shakes her head in disgust!!
My haynes manual is useless, 4 matics, I could only assume, are a bit more difficult... Thanks guys.
Again, replacing the whole left axle with no idea how to do it without destroying the alignment/ destroying the ball joint etc. etc.
I DO have all sockets and tools listed in the above reply. Thanks

Boom vang

here you go. If you need anymore printouts let me know

awbooth

this is awesome. However I am unable to print them as they are too small and when I try to enlarge or zoom the pictures it becomes blurry. I am unable to read them at the size they are now. Would you be able to email them to me larger? my email address is awbmaintenance@yahoo.com Thanks so much!

awbooth

scratch my previous request for larger photos. I figured out how to make them larger. I do need some more help though. The instructions are so vague and unclear. I'm looking to see if the lower ball joint has to be seperated but it only seems to be talking about the tie rod end..totally lost. by removing the lower tie rod end shouldn't the steering knuckle move enough out to remove the axle out of the hub or does the lower joint need to come out as well? Thanks again!

Boom vang

more instructions

awbooth

cool, thanks!!!