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Installed aftermarket sub and now...

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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 09:04 AM
  #1  
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Lightbulb Installed aftermarket sub and now...

I just installed 2 12" JL audio subs (model# 12w1) they are basic entry level subs in a sealed box with a kenwood amplifier.

BUT, my installer told me that i will only be getting half the bass capacity because the trunk of my 2004 c320 is sealed pretty well from the factory.

My question, where would be a safe place to drill vent holes if anywhere i was thinking where the skiboot is supposed to be (i do not have the ski boot option on my car)

thanks in advance
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by manny_fresh
I just installed 2 12" JL audio subs (model# 12w1) they are basic entry level subs in a sealed box with a kenwood amplifier.

BUT, my installer told me that i will only be getting half the bass capacity because the trunk of my 2004 c320 is sealed pretty well from the factory.

My question, where would be a safe place to drill vent holes if anywhere i was thinking where the skiboot is supposed to be (i do not have the ski boot option on my car)

thanks in advance

Your joking right?? The spot you took your old bose sub woofer out of should be more then plenty.. Get a ported box if you want it louder. I use to have a 12 inch l7.. But i removed my subs now... would rather listen to my exhaust then thumping
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:03 PM
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
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2 X 12" JL's

Leave the trunk well alone. You don't want any more ventilation or you will never balance the system.

If you want a ghetto blaster well that's different
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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Run a separate ground line from the amp back to the battery!
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by manny_fresh
I just installed 2 12" JL audio subs (model# 12w1) they are basic entry level subs in a sealed box with a kenwood amplifier.

BUT, my installer told me that i will only be getting half the bass capacity because the trunk of my 2004 c320 is sealed pretty well from the factory.

My question, where would be a safe place to drill vent holes if anywhere i was thinking where the skiboot is supposed to be (i do not have the ski boot option on my car)

thanks in advance
you must be joking
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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well the thing is these were hand me down subs which are 10+ years old and i am saving up to buy a new sub/amp combo around christmas time the bass while sitting in the car is decent but outside u can barely notice anything i mean i dont want something abnoxious but i would love to be heard...what can i say im addicted to bass
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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i have a 12'' eclipse sub on a 500watt eclipse amp and it still gives a lot of bass with no holes needed in the trunk.
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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if ur addicted to bass, and serious about making your ride SMASH from the trunk...save up for w7's.. my friend blew out 3 windows and cracked his windshield on his jeep with 2 12's and a 2000watt amp hehe
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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edit: i personally had 2 powerbass 12's and a 2000watt powerbass amp with a control switch (complete control of amount of bass you want, highly recomended to get one of them wired in and placed by the e-brake release lever) setup in a candy red ported box and had to take it out and sold it because the bass hit so hard it actually was incredibly painful.. mind you it was set literally a quarter of an inch over minimum.. i was terrified for my life and loss of hearing to turn it more than half way to maximum. and you could hear me from blocks away.. anyway, good luck with your setup.. maybe post some pics and vids?
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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will post pics when i get home but i didnt do the install myself got it done by a place called Car Audio Haven in Brampton HIGHLY recomend them did an awesome job also my setup is just the stock deck with a stinger adjustable line output converter with a 350w kenwood amp (anything more powerful would have blown my subs) with a stinger 4 guage wiring kit
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 08:12 PM
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also needed an opinion do you prefer ported or sealed boxes
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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o.O are you in sd?
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 08:54 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by XsuperbeeX
o.O are you in sd?
sd meaning san diego? if thts wht u meant then no im in brampton ontario...in canada lol
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by manny_fresh
sd meaning san diego? if thts wht u meant then no im in brampton ontario...in canada lol
hahaha... coz we also have a place called audio heaven here...
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 10:27 PM
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Remove the rear factory woofer (if you have one). That should be plenty of space for the bass to pass thru. But for W1's don't expect much. If u want decent bass look at W3's. Also depending music you listen too. Me personally prefer voice over bass.

As for boxes I prefer sealed but with a divider in the middle for best result. Never been a fan of ported boxes.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by manny_fresh
also needed an opinion do you prefer ported or sealed boxes
ported 1000000% of the way. ported boxes will give much more airflow and stronger bass output no doubt about it. 2 12's ported vs 2 12's sealed sound like completely different subwoofers. a little more expensive (talking like a few bucks, nothing major at all) but worth every single penny. hope this helps man, good luck with your subs

edit: go for 0 gauge wiring.. also a little more expensive, but the power output will also increase.

Last edited by Luke_Geezy; Sep 30, 2010 at 02:02 AM. Reason: more info on subject added
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 07:08 AM
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Just a few words of warning.

In true high-end audio applications, sealed enclosures can provide tighter more controlled & natural bass e.g. Velodyne with no chance of air "chuffing" in the port.
Ported enclosures such as JL Audio make (slot port for cars) are just fine but the port requires to be properly designed to ensure correct phase at the port opening with the woofer cone face. Back yard sub enclosures seldom get this right if ever.

So - if you are going for a ported design make sure you buy the entire sub & enclosure assembly from a reputable manufacturer like JL Audio that have done their homework on the enclosure port design. No homemade boxes/enclosures.

Note that as with Velodyne - All JL Audio's excellent high-end subs are sealed enclosure for a good reason. Only Paradigm & B&W have achieved top class ported designs. That said I'm aware of air chuffing in the B&W's dimpled port at high SPL's

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Sep 30, 2010 at 07:11 AM.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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thanks for all the input guys im seriously considering upgrading my sub and amp around christmas minimum wage isnt letting me buy them any sooner maybe in a month or so i will for ****s and giggles just port the box myself (box and subs are 12+ yrs old so no real value in them) i mean im not disappointed in the performance of my current system inside the car the bass is awesome but i would like a little more thump being heard outside my installer recommends power bass so i will most likely get a powerbass amplifier around 1000w+ so i will not have to worry about buying another amp down the road as i believe that will be more then sufficient for me i will keep you all updated
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 01:37 PM
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guys can I hook up a system to the oem head unit??

I have a kicker cvr comp and a 600 watt amp.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 97W202
guys can I hook up a system to the oem head unit??

I have a kicker cvr comp and a 600 watt amp.
yes.. search a little to answer your question
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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You should have bought just one JL W7 and ended all of the fuss.
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 97W202
guys can I hook up a system to the oem head unit??

I have a kicker cvr comp and a 600 watt amp.
yes you can what you need is an adjustable line output converter (i got the stinger sgn13 highly recomend) and that will converter the speaker wires coming from the factory sub woofer into rca cable with plug into your amplifier

KEEP IN MIND this will only work for putting a sub and amp into your existing audio system
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by manny_fresh
yes you can what you need is an adjustable line output converter (i got the stinger sgn13 highly recomend) and that will converter the speaker wires coming from the factory sub woofer into rca cable with plug into your amplifier

KEEP IN MIND this will only work for putting a sub and amp into your existing audio system
and if you buy the PAC "trunk-Loc" piece it comes with a voltage sensor remote turn on wire so you wont need to look for an acc/igniton wire
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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where can I find these amazing suggestions
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 97W202
where can I find these amazing suggestions
any stereo shop should have them.... best buy..... or online
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