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C320 2002 Power Steering Flush DIY

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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 12:00 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by pcy
after the fluid is changed, please remember to bleed [air out of] the system. Without starting the car, the steering wheel needs to be turned full lock-to-lock around 30 times. The only way to accomplish that without running the engine is to have the front end lifted (both front wheels off the ground). As you trun the steering lock-to-lock, you (second person) will see the bubbles coming up in the PS fluid reservoir. You stop turning the steering when the bubbles stop.

I have done this on my ML (same engine M112 as my 2004 C320).
Was to lazy to jack the car up =/ haha
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 01:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by pcy
MB Maintenance Manual doesn't list the interval for power steerig fluid change. So, that means PS fluid is "lifetime" :-) you know what that means...
Thanks PCY...that's what I thought.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #28  
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What approval number is required for power steering fluid? I want to flush mine this weekend and want to make sure that this fluid meets the requirement. Thanks
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #29  
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is this applicable to 2007 models?
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jogger
is this applicable to 2007 models?
Your power steering fluid is this one at napa auto parts.


P/S Fluid
Product Line: Altrom Chemicals, Lubes - Regular States
Part Number: AIC 0009898803
Price:
Availability: This part can only be purchased from your local NAPA Auto Parts store.
Warranty Warranty information is unavailable.
Material Safety Data Sheet MSDS Detail
Application Information: 2007 Mercedes-Benz C230
Per Car Qty: 1
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #31  
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thanks. same steps?
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jogger
thanks. same steps?
Well wait a second. I'm not 100% sure that one is for your car. I know it came up in the search engine at the auto part store. But i don't know if its correct. Let me search around and find out. Because its only $8.49
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Old Mar 5, 2011 | 01:11 AM
  #33  
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According to my 2007 owner's manual, the power steering fluid requirement is equivalent to the older models, ie: Pentosin CHF11S.
Apparently, the approval number is 345.0.
There are equivalents from Fuchs and Febi.
The one in the blue bottle above is for another MB standard and doesn't seem to have the 345.0 approval.

RMEuropean shows these 3 being equivalent:
http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.asp...rd=Q-1-32-0001

Last edited by billbillw; Mar 5, 2011 at 01:28 AM.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 02:50 PM
  #34  
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The local MB "Dealer Alternative" repair shop said to use the Pentosin CHF 11S on my '07 C230.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mskembo
The local MB "Dealer Alternative" repair shop said to use the Pentosin CHF 11S on my '07 C230.
Mike, that is the factory fill for our cars and is available at Napa for $21/L.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #36  
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That's what I thought, thanks for confirming John! I'm flushing mine tonight (or tomorrow morning) because it started making a noise I didn't like when it's cold in the morning.
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #37  
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I just checked my fluid level and it didn't even register on the dipstick thing. I bought the Pentosin CHF11S and topped it to the Max when the car warmed up to 80C. I will also check for leaks in the morning.

I didn't notice any noise before or now, but my steering wheel does feel a little on the heavy side still. Should I do a full flush and do you think my pump is bad and how can you tell if its bad?

Happy Holidays!
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 03:50 AM
  #38  
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One small difference...

Just did this tonight. My steering was pretty heavy and would whine a little sometimes when starting, and if I turned the wheel really quickly, it was almost like the pump couldn't keep up. It had been that way since about 65k miles but started getting pretty bad recently at almost 90k. I had put it off since I thought it was the pump, but read here that a flush might do the trick, so I tried it.

Got Pentosin CHF 11S on Amazon for something like $20/L. The hose clamp was hard to find at first because it turns out they replaced the standard flat-head hose clamp with a friction one you have to pry open. Needle nose pliers did the job nicely and after that it was dead simple.

As for the symptoms, it drives like a brand new car. My fluid wasn't as orange as the fluid pictured here, but oh man, what a difference it makes. If you're having issues at all, definitely give this a try, it only takes like half an hour for a total novice, and helps a ton.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #39  
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Yes different type of clamp... I couldn't get that darn clamp off so gave up and did the rest... makes a world of a difference. Thanks OP.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:26 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Xhale707
Dude its so easy trust me ive never done much work on cars before.. This job was 30 mins and anyone could do it.
Great DIY -- thanks ... I hope to do it soon.

Question -- how much fluid did you need to refill the system? I want to make sure I don't use too much fluid for flushing out the old fluid and run out on the refill.

Thanks. John
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Old May 16, 2012 | 04:13 PM
  #41  
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I just did mine and I was surprised at how brown the old fluid was. Here are some pictures of my home made suction device. I used about .5L(not an exact measure) of fluid to refill the system after the flush. Thanks for the great DIY!!!!



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Old May 16, 2012 | 05:09 PM
  #42  
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Ribo89
Here are some pictures of my home made suction device.
Cool device, man!

I need to flush mine too... Bought the liquid a few months ago, but I am lazy, and don't have access to a lift. Maybe I will just ask at some mechanic place to use their lift or floor jack for 5 minutes to flush it and turn the steering wheel 30 times

Last edited by VVF; May 16, 2012 at 05:11 PM.
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Old May 16, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by VVF
Cool device, man!

I need to flush mine too... Bought the liquid a few months ago, but I am lazy, and don't have access to a lift. Maybe I will just ask at some mechanic place to use their lift or floor jack for 5 minutes to flush it and turn the steering wheel 30 times
Homemade device did the trick I didn't turn the wheel 30 times but instead did this: "9. ( Tricky Part ) Fill up the power steering tank.. Put cap on. Start the car for (three seconds ONLY) . Shut the car off.. Fill Tank back up. Do this 5 Times." I only did that 2 times and the fluid level stabilized.

Last edited by Ribo89; May 16, 2012 at 05:17 PM.
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Old May 16, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #44  
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Did you open up the return hose down below to drain the rest of the fluid in the system? Or only replace the fluid in the reservoir multiple times (mixing it with the remaining old fluid in the system each time)?

I did the reservoir-only method, draining and refilling 3 times (to use up the quart) and running the car around a bit in between each time. I got the fluid to change from a dark brown to light amber, but not quite green. I figure if the reservoir holds 1/2 the fluid in the system then I ended up with somewhere around 1/8 of the original fluid still in the system. The cold start shudder is virtually gone now. Not 100%, so I'm planning to purchase another quart and do this again sometime soon. After that, maybe once every two years when I do the brake fluid.

Also, fyi -- since the reservoir is about two feet above ground level, you can drain it using just a piece of hose as a siphon. Works really well -- just watch that you don't accidentally suck fluid into your mouth while you're priming the hose.

Last edited by jkowtko; May 16, 2012 at 07:00 PM.
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Old May 16, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #45  
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I did the full flush just like the DIY says...way easier and better in my opinion. All you need to do is use the jack in your trunk and lift up the right side of the car and take out the plastic cover underneath and disconnect the hose and let the old fluid drain out and flush with the new. Reconnect and do step 9 in DIY and you are done.
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #46  
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This bump isn't too bad, so I'll go ahead and do it.

I went to 4 different shops today and most of them are saying my Power Steering Pump needs to be replaced. Apparently... this is no easy fix.


Do you all believe this is really the problem? And could draining the fluid fix this noise? Thank you very much
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #47  
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I'm no expert, but it sounds like a bearing noise to me. I've had alternator bearings go out in the past (with older cars) and the sound was similar.

Some suggestions on things to try before forking out $$$ for a new pump:

Check if the sound increases in pitch when you increase the engine RPM?

Try to pinpoint the sound by putting loads on the different components attached to the belt ... does the sound change when you:
- turn on Max A/C?
- turn the steering wheel
- turn on the headlights?

Try the "tuning fork" trick of touching a long screwdriver to the metal housing of each component attached to that serpentine belt, and listen and/or feel the other end of the screwdriver for where the vibration is strongest.

If you suspect the PS pump is the culprit and you haven't changed PS fluid in a long time (or ever) you could try drain and refill with the proper fluid to see if it relieves some of the load on the pump.
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jkowtko
I'm no expert, but it sounds like a bearing noise to me. I've had alternator bearings go out in the past (with older cars) and the sound was similar.

Some suggestions on things to try before forking out $$$ for a new pump:

Check if the sound increases in pitch when you increase the engine RPM?

Try to pinpoint the sound by putting loads on the different components attached to the belt ... does the sound change when you:
- turn on Max A/C?
- turn the steering wheel
- turn on the headlights?

Try the "tuning fork" trick of touching a long screwdriver to the metal housing of each component attached to that serpentine belt, and listen and/or feel the other end of the screwdriver for where the vibration is strongest.

If you suspect the PS pump is the culprit and you haven't changed PS fluid in a long time (or ever) you could try drain and refill with the proper fluid to see if it relieves some of the load on the pump.

here is a new video, in my attempt to showcase it a tad bit more. at first I was skeptical at the diagnosis, but after deciding to give it a listen after turning the wheel.... I think they are correct.

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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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Boy, that really makes a racket.

* Have you looked at the fluid level in the reservoir? When I replaced my fluid last time I had the level low and when I started the car the pump made huge amounts of noise ... its possible that a lot of what you are hearing is the pump mechanism grabbing at air.

* what's the color of the fluid? take a piece of clear plastic tubing or straw and suck out a bit of fluid so you can see the color. New fluid is light translucent green, like Midori ... old fluid turns amber and then dark brown. Any other color might be the wrong fluid type. If you think you have old or incorrect fluid I would suggest you spend the $20 on a quarter of CHF 11s and see if that helps.

* underneath it all it still sounds like there may be a worn bearing to me ... but I would try the simpler remedies first.

Last edited by jkowtko; Oct 31, 2012 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 08:27 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jkowtko
Boy, that really makes a racket.

* Have you looked at the fluid level in the reservoir? When I replaced my fluid last time I had the level low and when I started the car the pump made huge amounts of noise ... its possible that a lot of what you are hearing is the pump mechanism grabbing at air.

* what's the color of the fluid? take a piece of clear plastic tubing or straw and suck out a bit of fluid so you can see the color. New fluid is light translucent green, like Midori ... old fluid turns amber and then dark brown. Any other color might be the wrong fluid type. If you think you have old or incorrect fluid I would suggest you spend the $20 on a quarter of CHF 11s and see if that helps.

* underneath it all it still sounds like there may be a worn bearing to me ... but I would try the simpler remedies first.
The mechanic did not call back as he promised today. Do you think I could get him to put the car up and drain it for me if I can refill it with some of the CHF 11s? (I mean of course he will do it for money, but I'm a college student so... what money? )

The bearing problem, what would that be related to? Or would that have to have a diagnostic performed? And once again, how bad will it hurt my pockets? I had an appointment next week at the official Dealership but all the shops I went to basically told me to cancel it because they will steal my bank. I already went to them once, though, in which they replaced my Valve Gaskets (an $800 job, after the discounts I got for befriending a sales associate, lol)

Thank you!
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