Torque specs or wis documents needed please
10-23-2010, 01:36 PM
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2003 c240
Torque specs or wis documents needed please
Hey guys im currently putting my renntech shocks on up front and changing the upper and lower control arm bushings and I'm in need of the torque specs all the bolts needed to do these jobs.
I need it for all four bolts coming from the two control arms, and all the nuts on the strut assembly.
Please if anyone has these, let me know. Thanks!
I need it for all four bolts coming from the two control arms, and all the nuts on the strut assembly.
Please if anyone has these, let me know. Thanks!
10-23-2010, 03:25 PM
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C320 2002
Hey guys im currently putting my renntech shocks on up front and changing the upper and lower control arm bushings and I'm in need of the torque specs all the bolts needed to do these jobs.
I need it for all four bolts coming from the two control arms, and all the nuts on the strut assembly.
Please if anyone has these, let me know. Thanks!
I need it for all four bolts coming from the two control arms, and all the nuts on the strut assembly.
Please if anyone has these, let me know. Thanks!
10-23-2010, 07:03 PM
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thanks xhale thats definitely gonna help me out.
I ran into a problem, I cant seem to get the control arm apart from the knuckle... I tried using a tie rod fork( i think thats what it's called) to separate it but its not budging. Am i taking the wrong approach?
I ran into a problem, I cant seem to get the control arm apart from the knuckle... I tried using a tie rod fork( i think thats what it's called) to separate it but its not budging. Am i taking the wrong approach?
10-23-2010, 08:31 PM
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10-23-2010, 08:40 PM
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Hehe...that is why the cable modem, router and wireless access point are on battery backups. Power can be out and I can still surf on the laptop. 
10-23-2010, 08:47 PM
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10-24-2010, 12:19 AM
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10-24-2010, 10:30 AM
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It’ll make quick work of it, and preserve the threads and seals for subsequent reinstallations (for bushing-only replacements).
Failing that, some deft blows with a BFH will invariably suffice.
The hapless motorist who 86’d the power to our area also severed the FiOS and DSL lines. This being earthquake, wildfire and occasional riot area, our stash of provisions and ‘emergency’ supplies came in rather handy. Pleased to report the BBQ, corkscrew and candles all worked perfectly. Would have been miffed if my satellite dish and DVR missed recording the inaugural Korean Grand Prix though.
It seems splinter Jr. hauls home some newfangled iPhone, laptop or tech gadget every month; he writes programming code for kicks. Almost a miracle I can even switch on this computer. Did silently chuckle when several neighbors stopped by while working in the garage to ask, “Don’t you know the power is out?!”
10-24-2010, 01:22 PM
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hey splinter does the lower control arm come out the same way the thrust arm does? I've bought a similar tool to the one that you have pictured and i've been trying to get out the lower control arm and it isn't budging at all.
10-24-2010, 08:00 PM
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Bought a knockoff of MB’s #171 589 00 33 00 puller (pictured) for the torque arms’ ball joint/steering knuckle recalcitrant mounting junction.
Used my trusty single jack hammer and a drift punch -per AR33.15-P0161P workshop procedure- to extricate the lower arms. Note it’s a downward swing to pop them free. Judicious application of heat may reduce the effort required.
If you’re still in a pinch, I’ll overnight aforementioned puller your way mańana – on my dime.
Scuttlebutt is those Renntech dampers are a nifty upgrade.
10-24-2010, 11:44 PM
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Trust you’ve managed to get things squared away by now.
Bought a knockoff of MB’s #171 589 00 33 00 puller (pictured) for the torque arms’ ball joint/steering knuckle recalcitrant mounting junction.
Used my trusty single jack hammer and a drift punch -per AR33.15-P0161P workshop procedure- to extricate the lower arms. Note it’s a downward swing to pop them free. Judicious application of heat may reduce the effort required.
If you’re still in a pinch, I’ll overnight aforementioned puller your way mańana – on my dime.
Scuttlebutt is those Renntech dampers are a nifty upgrade.
Bought a knockoff of MB’s #171 589 00 33 00 puller (pictured) for the torque arms’ ball joint/steering knuckle recalcitrant mounting junction.
Used my trusty single jack hammer and a drift punch -per AR33.15-P0161P workshop procedure- to extricate the lower arms. Note it’s a downward swing to pop them free. Judicious application of heat may reduce the effort required.
If you’re still in a pinch, I’ll overnight aforementioned puller your way mańana – on my dime.
Scuttlebutt is those Renntech dampers are a nifty upgrade.
I would be grateful if you could send that to me and I will reimburst you with some cash on the return 
I'll PM you my address. Thanksedit: Also, is it possible to replace the rubber boot without having to buy a new arm?
Whats a scuttlebutt haha?
Last edited by fookoo303; 10-24-2010 at 11:47 PM.
10-27-2010, 01:41 AM
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Shipped the puller late this afternoon, fookoo303. Good luck with it.
nlpamg was quite pleased with his Renntech damper upgrade…https://mbworld.org/forums/4175371-post426.html
nlpamg was quite pleased with his Renntech damper upgrade…https://mbworld.org/forums/4175371-post426.html
10-27-2010, 04:54 AM
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yea i installed the rears about the month ago and they are definitely stiffer than stock and it feels good. Just finally getting around to installing the fronts and cant wait to feel the difference once i get my bushings squared away.
Again, thanks for lending me your puller.
Again, thanks for lending me your puller.
10-27-2010, 09:59 AM
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lol discount MB site wants $60 for that puller. and the other one in hotlanta wants $72 ($12 more than msrp)...yikes
10-31-2010, 07:27 PM
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Hey John, I just got back from out of town earlier this afternoon and I came home to your part sitting in my house.
Went out to the garage and it took me less than two minutes to get that control arm off. Tool worked wonderfully. Thanks again for sending it to me.
Now that I've been able to get it out, I've assessed the damage i caused to the boot and will need to replace the entire arm. Would you mind if i kept it another week while i wait for the new control arm comes in and i can get it installed?
Went out to the garage and it took me less than two minutes to get that control arm off. Tool worked wonderfully. Thanks again for sending it to me.
Now that I've been able to get it out, I've assessed the damage i caused to the boot and will need to replace the entire arm. Would you mind if i kept it another week while i wait for the new control arm comes in and i can get it installed?
11-02-2010, 11:12 PM
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Hey John, I just got back from out of town earlier this afternoon and I came home to your part sitting in my house.
Went out to the garage and it took me less than two minutes to get that control arm off. Tool worked wonderfully. Thanks again for sending it to me.
Now that I've been able to get it out, I've assessed the damage i caused to the boot and will need to replace the entire arm. Would you mind if i kept it another week while i wait for the new control arm comes in and i can get it installed?
Went out to the garage and it took me less than two minutes to get that control arm off. Tool worked wonderfully. Thanks again for sending it to me.
Now that I've been able to get it out, I've assessed the damage i caused to the boot and will need to replace the entire arm. Would you mind if i kept it another week while i wait for the new control arm comes in and i can get it installed?
11-03-2010, 02:31 AM
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With the addition of the new bushings, I no longer have any high speed steering wheel vibrations and going over bumps and potholes are much softer and quieter.
This has been, by far, one of the best upgrades and maintenance I've done on my car. Now i just need to install my rear camber arms and get an alignment.
11-05-2010, 12:26 AM
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Awesome, thanks john. I am really grateful. I got the car put back together yesterday and it drives great. The shocks are a day and night difference. There is no more bouncing after hitting bumps and steering is much crisper.
With the addition of the new bushings, I no longer have any high speed steering wheel vibrations and going over bumps and potholes are much softer and quieter.
This has been, by far, one of the best upgrades and maintenance I've done on my car. Now i just need to install my rear camber arms and get an alignment.
With the addition of the new bushings, I no longer have any high speed steering wheel vibrations and going over bumps and potholes are much softer and quieter.
This has been, by far, one of the best upgrades and maintenance I've done on my car. Now i just need to install my rear camber arms and get an alignment.
My tool chest has amassed more specialty goodies than I should admit.
Upside is each has more than paid for itself when accounting for competent ~$130-per-hour technician rates ‘round here.
Have often preached judicious suspension maintenance and upgrades typically offer the best ROI from this chassis.
They’re noticeable -and appreciated- every time behind the wheel.
No WOT necessary.
