2 15 inch subs?
#26
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Dealers were charging enough but damaging cars through very poor workmanship & damaging the audio gear through not understanding it's operation & endlessly blowing components due to wrong hookup.
#27
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2021 GLC300 4Matic
I used to see this all the time back when I used to work as car stereo installer. Most young guys will crank the gain knob thinking of it as a volume knob.
I had to explain lots of times that the gain needed to be adjusted to the correct voltage for the application in questions therefore achieving the best response from the amp and the subs.
I had to explain lots of times that the gain needed to be adjusted to the correct voltage for the application in questions therefore achieving the best response from the amp and the subs.
#28
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I am glad you guys are talking about this, because no matter what other people say or think, the ear and the way you hear sounds varies from one person to other.
I mean what might sound good to you could well sound like **** to others.
I'm just saying...............
I mean what might sound good to you could well sound like **** to others.
I'm just saying...............
#29
Senior Member
Art is for the mind and Music is for the soul. Both speak differently to everyone.
Oh and let me just add one word in the realm of audio...synergy.
Oh and let me just add one word in the realm of audio...synergy.
#31
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W203 06
i went to a few audio places today and found some 15 inch sound stream tarantula 1000 rms subs. i just have to see if i can make a big ported box for both of em to fit the boot
#32
Super Moderator
To each his own. The loud is easy. The clean is difficult. 2 X 15 will give you muddiness & will be slow. Multiple smaller subs will be fast & clean & not suffer the lower speed & cone break-up typical of an automotive 15".
Rather use higher quality smaller driver subs - multiple if need be in properly designed enclosures. Most car subs are ported. If you want really clean bass you should go sealed.
A port is ALWAYS nothing more than a cheap way to attempt to get free bass out of an enclosure where the driver or drivers area is too small. Since the port defines the LF cutoff of the cabinet, at some frequency the pressure from the LF driver and the port are exactly opposite each other in phase. That means IF you were to simply put those same frequencies through the mains and the sub you would now have 3 sources of LF energy and differing phase: the in-car drivers, the port, and the sub, all fighting with each other. A further corollary is that since the air inside the cabinet is elastic, the phase relationship of the port air to the driver air is also sliding; that means it's "out of phase" over a wider range of frequencies than you might think, therefore it sounds like the bass frequencies are ok in the frequency domain but the IMPULSE RESPONSE is now muddied.
The problem with car audio is that it partially takes you inside the speaker enclosure.
If you want more clean base use more smaller identical high quality subwoofers mounted in a sealed cabinet & enough amplifier power to drive them without clipping. You don't need thousands of watts. You need decent class A/B amplifiers with decent power supplies that won't clip. You also don't need to go down to 15Hz in a car. Far better to get down to 25Hz or even above that cleanly. You can get away with Class D amps in the bass more easily than midrange or treble but I don't like them. They are a cheap way to switch a transistor & achieve high power without heat generation. That's about all they have going for them.
Irrespective of claims - Most 15" car subs & even domestic subs produce well over 10% distortion. The only way around this is to servo drive them like Velodyne & REL do which will get that distortion down below 1%. No one makes servo driven subs for cars & you would not want to pay the price if they did.
Good luck
Rather use higher quality smaller driver subs - multiple if need be in properly designed enclosures. Most car subs are ported. If you want really clean bass you should go sealed.
A port is ALWAYS nothing more than a cheap way to attempt to get free bass out of an enclosure where the driver or drivers area is too small. Since the port defines the LF cutoff of the cabinet, at some frequency the pressure from the LF driver and the port are exactly opposite each other in phase. That means IF you were to simply put those same frequencies through the mains and the sub you would now have 3 sources of LF energy and differing phase: the in-car drivers, the port, and the sub, all fighting with each other. A further corollary is that since the air inside the cabinet is elastic, the phase relationship of the port air to the driver air is also sliding; that means it's "out of phase" over a wider range of frequencies than you might think, therefore it sounds like the bass frequencies are ok in the frequency domain but the IMPULSE RESPONSE is now muddied.
The problem with car audio is that it partially takes you inside the speaker enclosure.
If you want more clean base use more smaller identical high quality subwoofers mounted in a sealed cabinet & enough amplifier power to drive them without clipping. You don't need thousands of watts. You need decent class A/B amplifiers with decent power supplies that won't clip. You also don't need to go down to 15Hz in a car. Far better to get down to 25Hz or even above that cleanly. You can get away with Class D amps in the bass more easily than midrange or treble but I don't like them. They are a cheap way to switch a transistor & achieve high power without heat generation. That's about all they have going for them.
Irrespective of claims - Most 15" car subs & even domestic subs produce well over 10% distortion. The only way around this is to servo drive them like Velodyne & REL do which will get that distortion down below 1%. No one makes servo driven subs for cars & you would not want to pay the price if they did.
Good luck
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 11-27-2010 at 01:17 PM.